Remove the cooling system from the processor. How to remove the cooler and how to install the processor and cooler
Dust slows down the computer because it impairs heat dissipation from the CPU and graphics card. They overheat to a critical level when throttling is triggered. This is a mechanism built into the processors that reduces their performance, thereby lowering the temperature.
Cleaning your computer from dust is necessary not when there is a need to speed up the computer, but at least once a year. The lower the system unit is located, the more dust it collects. The instance that we cleaned did not know cleaning for half a year, and the photographs show that it is thoroughly dusty. Although this is not the most advanced option yet.
Two options for cleaning your computer: express and deep
To quickly remove dust from the system unit, remove the cover from it and vacuum it. Try not to damage anything. It will take 3 minutes, but will save only part of the dust. Therefore, we will talk about method number 2.
Thorough cleaning involves dismantling and cleaning the cooler, processor and video card, as well as putting things in order in the case. You will need flat and Phillips screwdrivers, ethyl alcohol, paper napkins, thermal paste, a cleaning brush and a vacuum cleaner (which did not fit in the photo).
Turn off the computer and disconnect all cords from the system unit. We take it out of the place where you have it, into the free space.
When disassembling any part of the computer, use the golden rule: before you unwind, disconnect, remove, take a picture or write down how everything was. Then it will be easier to assemble.
Lay the system unit on its side. To open it, unscrew the screws securing the cover on the back panel. Most often, after that it needs to be moved towards the rear panel.
This is how the picture opens. Our the main objective- a cooler or processor cooling system, consisting of a fan and a radiator. In the photo it is in the center, boxed version. The second target is the video card, which is visible to the right of the cooler.
First, remove the fan. Using a flat screwdriver, slightly bend its side latches in turn and pull the fan up. There are options when it is fastened with screws or not removed from the radiator at all. In the latter case, it can only be cleaned superficially.
After removing the fan, turn it off motherboard.
How to remove the heatsink from the processor
The radiator can be attached directly to the motherboard with screws, then you just need to unscrew them. Or a plastic slot-frame is attached to the motherboard, and the radiator is snapped into it. In this case, to remove the radiator, lift the latch holding the mounting bracket. We disengage the grooves of the bracket on both sides and gently pull up.
If the thermal paste between the processor and the heatsink has dried out, the heatsink may come off with the processor. In such a case, carefully pry the processor with a wooden or plastic tool and remove it. It is better to do this with gloves.
Release the processor lock on the socket. Now you can detach the processor itself by pulling it up. Please note that there are metal feet on the back of the processor. Be careful not to bend them.
Having removed the cooler and the processor, we clean the system unit from the inside, i.e. trying to remove dust from all other elements. To do this, use a regular vacuum cleaner and a clean, dry small brush. Bringing the hose of the vacuum cleaner to the accumulation of dust on the motherboard or in the case, brush it out of the corners with a brush.
You need to be careful with all the protruding elements on the board so as not to break them. Everything that we see and that we can carefully get close to, we clean.
An alternative cleaning option is to use compressed air cylinders, which can be used to blow dirty areas. But the dust will still settle somewhere, and it’s harmful to breathe it.
The internal surface of the processor must not be wiped with a damp cloth! After that, computers do not survive!
As a rule, there is no dust on it, but there are remnants of thermal paste, usually dried up. The easiest way to remove them is with a paper towel moistened with alcohol. It happens that the paste has already hardened and alcohol does not take it - then try more aggressive substances such as a solvent or acetone. Do not use wet wipes or rags!
Separately clean the radiator, separately - the fan. First, with the same napkin with alcohol, we clean the underside of the heatsink contact plate from the remnants of thermal paste. Then we clean the ribs from dust with a brush and vacuum cleaner. Alternatively, flushing the radiator with water is allowed, but followed by thorough drying. By the time of installation in place, there should be no moisture left in it.
The fan is cleaned with a brush, blown with air, wiped with a cloth soaked in alcohol. Be careful with fan blades, they are easy to break.
When finished cleaning, try spinning the fan by hand. Rotation should be easy, without unnecessary noise and strong axial play. It is allowed to move up and down along the axis by a couple of millimeters. But if there is noise, a strong backlash, or the fan does not spin well by hand, it is better to replace it.
Thermal paste replacement and assembly
When all parts are cleaned, you can proceed to reassembly. Re-coat the processor with thermal paste.
You need to change the thermal paste every six months, but if you clean your computer more often, change it every time you clean it.
How to apply thermal paste? - Very economical, literally at the tip of the nail. It's not about greed, it's just that for effective thermal conductivity, the layer of thermal paste should be as thin as possible. So don't overdo it.
We smear the paste with a clean finger or a “spatula” from a plastic card. It is necessary to cover the entire surface of the processor, while distributing the paste evenly, without gaps, but without getting out of the edges. We collect excess from the edges with a napkin or cotton wool.
We install the processor in place so that the corner marked with a golden triangle on it coincides with the same corner in the socket. This is the only position in which the processor will stand up correctly. It just "falls" into the slot itself, no need to press. Then we fix it with a clamp.
Install the radiator. To do this, you need to bring the grooves of the bracket under the hooks, hooking them, and press the radiator with the handle. It should sit tight and not wobble on the processor.
The computer suddenly stopped turning on, an autopsy showed the presence of a swollen electrolytic capacitor in the +5 V power circuit on the motherboard. I had to replace the capacitor.
When I removed the motherboard, I was extremely surprised by its strong deflection in the processor installation area. I attached a ruler and realized that if urgent measures were not taken, then soon I would have to buy a new system unit.
Why does the motherboard flex
I already knew cases of motherboard failure due to deflection. Since the conductive tracks on the motherboard are very narrow and thin, they stretch and microcracks form in them. From temperature drops due to the linear expansion of materials, microcracks gradually turn into cracks. The track is broken and the board stops working. At first, the computer starts to freeze occasionally, then more and more often, and there comes a moment when it stops working forever.
Such a motherboard cannot be repaired, as it has up to seven layers, and it is almost impossible to find a broken track. You have to replace it with a new one, and additional costs arise, since most likely the processor, memory modules and other cards installed on the old motherboard will not be installed on the new motherboard, since there are no longer the necessary connectors. In practice, you have to buy a new system unit, although the old one was quite suitable for your tasks.
When studying the device for pressing the radiator to the processor, it became clear that the deformation of the motherboard is due to its illiterate (or deliberate) design. The heatsink is pressed against the processor, and the engagement holes for applying force to press the heatsink against the processor are also on printed circuit board far from where the processor is installed. Thus, the processor presses on the board in one direction, and the heatsink engagement points in the opposite direction. This leads to deformation of the motherboard.
To avoid deformation, it is necessary that the acting and opposing forces that are applied to the motherboard from different sides are on the same axis, this requirement was the starting point for upgrading the design of the heat sink clamping device that does not deform the motherboard.
As you can see, the plastic clips have been replaced by spring-loaded screws, but that's not the only difference. The design used a metal plate and a dielectric thrust bearing. Screws are screwed into the plate, and the plate rests with a thrust bearing instead of installing the processor. Thus, the conditions for deformation of the motherboard are excluded.
Processor heatsink mounting system upgrade
In the photo you see the modernized clamping device assembled. Its design is so simple that almost anyone with minimal material processing skills can repeat it.
First, a metal plate is made of steel or aluminum alloy with a size of 85×85 mm and a thickness of 3 mm. The thickness of the plate is determined by the required mechanical strength. The dimensions are valid for the clamping device of the motherboard GIGABYTE boards GA81915P-G. Four holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled symmetrically at the corners of the plate at a distance of 72 mm along the perimeter from each other and an M4 thread is cut into them.
Next, a square dielectric plate with a size of 50 × 50 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the gap that must be provided to prevent the soldering on the motherboard from touching the metal plate. I cut out from foil fiberglass with metal scissors.
It remains to glue the plates together with any suitable glue or double-sided tape and the design is ready. Before gluing, it is necessary to attach the processor to the place of soldering and see if the solder protrusions or soldered radio elements will interfere. If they interfere, then in the insulating plate you need to make a sample or drill holes in the places where they touch. The plate should lie on the board with the entire plane. After gluing, it is necessary to attach the resulting combined plate again and check whether the metal part will touch the soldering points of the electrolytic capacitors. There are usually a lot of them around the processor. All protruding legs must be cut with side cutters. It remains to pick up the screws, springs and washers.
Ready-made compression springs of the required diameter and stiffness could not be found and the most suitable tension spring had to be modified. Of course, you can do without springs by putting plastic washers, but then it is difficult to get a perfect fit of the heatsink to the surface of the processor. I made springs from one spring from stretching the ground wire of the kinescope of the monitor. Such springs are used in any kinescope TV. The inner diameter of such a spring has 5 mm, the wire diameter is about 0.5 mm.
In order to stretch the spring, you need to thread two screwdrivers into its rings at the ends or take it with two pliers and, applying a little effort, very slowly pull to the sides until you feel that the metal has “succumbed”. Release the spring and see what happens. The step of winding the spring should be about 1 mm, if less, repeat the operation. In case of a miss, there are usually four springs in the kinescope, so there is something to practice on. The stretched spring is cut with wire cutters into segments eight turns long.
It remains to pick up four screws with an M4 thread 20 mm long.
I used beautiful screws that tighten the clamps for fastening the deflecting system to the neck of the kinescopes. But any will do, you just have to put standard washers on each side of the spring.
A fastener kit for upgrading the processor heatsink clamp has been prepared. Everything is ready to install a new mounting device, but first you need to dismantle the old one.
How to remove the processor heatsink attached to the clips
Installing a prepared new processor heatsink clamp requires the heatsink to be removed. The radiator is fixed to the eyelets with four plastic clips. To release them, you need to insert a screwdriver with a flat sting into the slot of each clip, and turn its moving part counterclockwise by 90 °.
Then with your hand pressing the radiator from above, pull the moving parts of the clips up one by one. The fixing pins will come out of the gap between the tabs of the latches, and the heatsink will easily pop up.
On the left in the photo, the pin pushed the latches apart, and they are securely fixed in the board. In the center, the movable black part of the clip is raised up. On the right, the pin has released the latches, they no longer catch on the board, and the heatsink can be easily removed. Next, the latches are removed from the radiator mounting lugs, they are no longer needed.
How to remove the cooler from the processor heatsink
Coolers on processor heatsinks are usually attached in two ways: - using latches and screws.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fastened with latches
After the radiator is removed, it is necessary to unfasten the cooler from it and clean the radiator fins from dust. The cooler also needs to be cleaned of dust and, if necessary, lubricated bearings with graphite grease.
To remove the cooler from the radiator, you need to wring out two rather tight latches diametrically opposite with a flat-blade screwdriver.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fixed with screws
On some modern motherboards, the processor heatsink is secured with four long screws, in the manner described above in the bracket upgrade.
The board does not deform, but if you need to lubricate the noisy cooler, you have to remove the heatsink as well, since the cooler is fixed to the heatsink with common screws.
For the convenience of installing the cooler and radiator, the screws have grooves in which curly lock washers are fixed, and in order to remove the cooler for lubrication, you must first remove them.
To do this, you need to place a radiator with a cooler on the edge of the table so that the wine can move freely along the axis without resting on the table surface. Next, you need to put a wooden block or plywood on the screw so as not to spoil the thread, and apply a few blows with a hammer.
When removing the washers, you must be careful so that the springs do not fly away, otherwise you will have to look for them for a long time. The cooler is removed and you can start cleaning it from dust and lubrication.
Installing the cooler on the radiator is done in the reverse order. Springs are put on the screws, they are threaded through the mounting holes of the cooler and radiator. Next, lock washers are put on the screws and put in their original place.
To put the locking washer on the screw, you need to pick up a piece of tube or a nut that fits freely over the entire length of the screw.
Next, the vise must be adjusted so that between their jaws there is a distance slightly greater than the diameter of the screw. Hammer blows on the head of the screw are hammered into the lock washer until it sits in the groove.
If there is no vice at hand, then you can take a tube or a few nuts. The length of the tube or the total thickness of the nuts should be slightly greater than the length of the screw from the beginning of the thread to the groove.
It is possible not to put fixing washers on the screws, but in this case it will be very inconvenient to install a heatsink with a cooler on the processor.
The processor heatsink and cooler are assembled and it remains only to install them on the motherboard processor, not forgetting to evenly smear the old thermal paste on the surface of the processor and heatsink (if it is not dried) or apply fresh.
How to apply thermal paste
The old thermal paste from the processor and the contact surface of the heatsink must be completely removed, as it thickens over time, and if you install a heatsink without replacing the paste, the efficiency of heat removal by the heatsink from the processor will be lower.
It is better not to remove the processor from the crib, but if necessary, it is enough to take the lever aside and lift it up, then open the clamping frame and remove the processor.
The thermally conductive paste is silicone-based and can be easily removed with a cotton cloth. It is enough to press the fabric to the surface to rub it well.
Before applying a new thermally conductive paste, you need to check the device for fixing the radiator, install the radiator and tighten it with screws. If everything has risen well, you can proceed to the final installation of the heatsink on the processor. Since the contact surfaces of the processor and heatsink have good flatness, it is enough to apply a thin layer of thermally conductive paste on them. There are no requirements for the uniformity of application, since the paste has a soft consistency and spreads well when pressed.
I apply with a screwdriver blade. Thermal conductive paste can be purchased at any store that sells computer technology. Served in tubes or syringes. One milliliter will be enough for application.
Installing a heatsink on the processor
Now you can start installing the radiator. Put the heatsink on the processor, orienting it so that you have access to the cooler latches, then if you need to lubricate or replace it, you will be able to remove the cooler without removing the heatsink. The holes in the mounting tabs of the heatsink must be directly above the holes in the motherboard.
It remains to tighten the four screws, and the radiator will be installed in its place. To ensure uniform pressure, it is necessary that the ends of all screws protrude from the metal plate by the same length. The springs must be compressed by at least half of their length in order to create the necessary force for pressing the heatsink against the surface of the processor.
After installing the cooler on the radiator and connecting it to the motherboard, the modernization of the radiator clamping device to the processor on the motherboard can be considered complete.
If in system block Since the computer is not provided for cooling the processor by supplying air from the environment, I recommend working a little more by finalizing the processor cooling system as described in the site article
The computer suddenly stopped turning on, an autopsy showed the presence of a swollen electrolytic capacitor in the +5 V power circuit on the motherboard. I had to replace the capacitor.
When I removed the motherboard, I was extremely surprised by its strong deflection in the processor installation area. I attached a ruler and realized that if urgent measures were not taken, then soon I would have to buy a new system unit.
Why does the motherboard flex
I already knew cases of motherboard failure due to deflection. Since the conductive tracks on the motherboard are very narrow and thin, they stretch and microcracks form in them. From temperature drops due to the linear expansion of materials, microcracks gradually turn into cracks. The track is broken and the board stops working. At first, the computer starts to freeze occasionally, then more and more often, and there comes a moment when it stops working forever.
Such a motherboard cannot be repaired, as it has up to seven layers, and it is almost impossible to find a broken track. You have to replace it with a new one, and additional costs arise, since most likely the processor, memory modules and other cards installed on the old motherboard will not be installed on the new motherboard, since there are no longer the necessary connectors. In practice, you have to buy a new system unit, although the old one was quite suitable for your tasks.
When studying the device for pressing the radiator to the processor, it became clear that the deformation of the motherboard is due to its illiterate (or deliberate) design. The heatsink is pressed against the processor, and the engagement holes for creating a force for pressing the heatsink against the processor are also located on the printed circuit board at a distance from the processor installation site. Thus, the processor presses on the board in one direction, and the heatsink engagement points in the opposite direction. This leads to deformation of the motherboard.
To avoid deformation, it is necessary that the acting and opposing forces that are applied to the motherboard from different sides are on the same axis, this requirement was the starting point for upgrading the design of the heat sink clamping device that does not deform the motherboard.
As you can see, the plastic clips have been replaced by spring-loaded screws, but that's not the only difference. The design used a metal plate and a dielectric thrust bearing. Screws are screwed into the plate, and the plate rests with a thrust bearing instead of installing the processor. Thus, the conditions for deformation of the motherboard are excluded.
Processor heatsink mounting system upgrade
In the photo you see the modernized clamping device assembled. Its design is so simple that almost anyone with minimal material processing skills can repeat it.
First, a metal plate is made of steel or aluminum alloy with a size of 85×85 mm and a thickness of 3 mm. The thickness of the plate is determined by the required mechanical strength. Dimensions are for GIGABYTE GA81915P-G motherboard clamp. Four holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm are drilled symmetrically at the corners of the plate at a distance of 72 mm along the perimeter from each other and an M4 thread is cut into them.
Next, a square dielectric plate with a size of 50 × 50 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm is made. The thickness of the plate is determined by the gap that must be provided to prevent the soldering on the motherboard from touching the metal plate. I cut out from foil fiberglass with metal scissors.
It remains to glue the plates together with any suitable glue or double-sided tape and the design is ready. Before gluing, it is necessary to attach the processor to the place of soldering and see if the solder protrusions or soldered radio elements will interfere. If they interfere, then in the insulating plate you need to make a sample or drill holes in the places where they touch. The plate should lie on the board with the entire plane. After gluing, it is necessary to attach the resulting combined plate again and check whether the metal part will touch the soldering points of the electrolytic capacitors. There are usually a lot of them around the processor. All protruding legs must be cut with side cutters. It remains to pick up the screws, springs and washers.
Ready-made compression springs of the required diameter and stiffness could not be found and the most suitable tension spring had to be modified. Of course, you can do without springs by putting plastic washers, but then it is difficult to get a perfect fit of the heatsink to the surface of the processor. I made springs from one spring from stretching the ground wire of the kinescope of the monitor. Such springs are used in any kinescope TV. The inner diameter of such a spring has 5 mm, the wire diameter is about 0.5 mm.
In order to stretch the spring, you need to thread two screwdrivers into its rings at the ends or take it with two pliers and, applying a little effort, very slowly pull to the sides until you feel that the metal has “succumbed”. Release the spring and see what happens. The step of winding the spring should be about 1 mm, if less, repeat the operation. In case of a miss, there are usually four springs in the kinescope, so there is something to practice on. The stretched spring is cut with wire cutters into segments eight turns long.
It remains to pick up four screws with an M4 thread 20 mm long.
I used beautiful screws that tighten the clamps for fastening the deflecting system to the neck of the kinescopes. But any will do, you just have to put standard washers on each side of the spring.
A fastener kit for upgrading the processor heatsink clamp has been prepared. Everything is ready to install a new mounting device, but first you need to dismantle the old one.
How to remove the processor heatsink attached to the clips
Installing a prepared new processor heatsink clamp requires the heatsink to be removed. The radiator is fixed to the eyelets with four plastic clips. To release them, you need to insert a screwdriver with a flat sting into the slot of each clip, and turn its moving part counterclockwise by 90 °.
Then with your hand pressing the radiator from above, pull the moving parts of the clips up one by one. The fixing pins will come out of the gap between the tabs of the latches, and the heatsink will easily pop up.
On the left in the photo, the pin pushed the latches apart, and they are securely fixed in the board. In the center, the movable black part of the clip is raised up. On the right, the pin has released the latches, they no longer catch on the board, and the heatsink can be easily removed. Next, the latches are removed from the radiator mounting lugs, they are no longer needed.
How to remove the cooler from the processor heatsink
Coolers on processor heatsinks are usually attached in two ways: - using latches and screws.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fastened with latches
After the radiator is removed, it is necessary to unfasten the cooler from it and clean the radiator fins from dust. The cooler also needs to be cleaned of dust and, if necessary, lubricated bearings with graphite grease.
To remove the cooler from the radiator, you need to wring out two rather tight latches diametrically opposite with a flat-blade screwdriver.
How to remove the cooler from the processor
fixed with screws
On some modern motherboards, the processor heatsink is secured with four long screws, in the manner described above in the bracket upgrade.
The board does not deform, but if you need to lubricate the noisy cooler, you have to remove the heatsink as well, since the cooler is fixed to the heatsink with common screws.
For the convenience of installing the cooler and radiator, the screws have grooves in which curly lock washers are fixed, and in order to remove the cooler for lubrication, you must first remove them.
To do this, you need to place a radiator with a cooler on the edge of the table so that the wine can move freely along the axis without resting on the table surface. Next, you need to put a wooden block or plywood on the screw so as not to spoil the thread, and apply a few blows with a hammer.
When removing the washers, you must be careful so that the springs do not fly away, otherwise you will have to look for them for a long time. The cooler is removed and you can start cleaning it from dust and lubrication.
Installing the cooler on the radiator is done in the reverse order. Springs are put on the screws, they are threaded through the mounting holes of the cooler and radiator. Next, lock washers are put on the screws and put in their original place.
To put the locking washer on the screw, you need to pick up a piece of tube or a nut that fits freely over the entire length of the screw.
Next, the vise must be adjusted so that between their jaws there is a distance slightly greater than the diameter of the screw. Hammer blows on the head of the screw are hammered into the lock washer until it sits in the groove.
If there is no vice at hand, then you can take a tube or a few nuts. The length of the tube or the total thickness of the nuts should be slightly greater than the length of the screw from the beginning of the thread to the groove.
It is possible not to put fixing washers on the screws, but in this case it will be very inconvenient to install a heatsink with a cooler on the processor.
The processor heatsink and cooler are assembled and it remains only to install them on the motherboard processor, not forgetting to evenly smear the old thermal paste on the surface of the processor and heatsink (if it is not dried) or apply fresh.
How to apply thermal paste
The old thermal paste from the processor and the contact surface of the heatsink must be completely removed, as it thickens over time, and if you install a heatsink without replacing the paste, the efficiency of heat removal by the heatsink from the processor will be lower.
It is better not to remove the processor from the crib, but if necessary, it is enough to take the lever aside and lift it up, then open the clamping frame and remove the processor.
The thermally conductive paste is silicone-based and can be easily removed with a cotton cloth. It is enough to press the fabric to the surface to rub it well.
Before applying a new thermally conductive paste, you need to check the device for fixing the radiator, install the radiator and tighten it with screws. If everything has risen well, you can proceed to the final installation of the heatsink on the processor. Since the contact surfaces of the processor and heatsink have good flatness, it is enough to apply a thin layer of thermally conductive paste on them. There are no requirements for the uniformity of application, since the paste has a soft consistency and spreads well when pressed.
I apply with a screwdriver blade. Thermal conductive paste can be purchased at any computer hardware store. Served in tubes or syringes. One milliliter will be enough for application.
Installing a heatsink on the processor
Now you can start installing the radiator. Put the heatsink on the processor, orienting it so that you have access to the cooler latches, then if you need to lubricate or replace it, you will be able to remove the cooler without removing the heatsink. The holes in the mounting tabs of the heatsink must be directly above the holes in the motherboard.
It remains to tighten the four screws, and the radiator will be installed in its place. To ensure uniform pressure, it is necessary that the ends of all screws protrude from the metal plate by the same length. The springs must be compressed by at least half of their length in order to create the necessary force for pressing the heatsink against the surface of the processor.
After installing the cooler on the radiator and connecting it to the motherboard, the modernization of the radiator clamping device to the processor on the motherboard can be considered complete.
If the computer system unit does not provide for processor cooling by supplying air from the environment, then I recommend working a little more by finalizing the processor cooling system as described in the site article
This article will tell you how to properly and safely remove the cooler from the processor. Trying to tear off a fan stuck to the CPU is a great chance to damage the "heart" of your computer. How to avoid it? I will try to describe the correct algorithm and possible situations, let's go.
How to remove the fan from the processor: an algorithm of actions.
1. The computer must be completely disconnected from the network before starting. This is understandable, another matter: is it worth waiting for complete cooling?
Let the radiator cool down - opinions differ.
On the one hand, this is true: the CPU can heat up to 90 degrees, burn your hands. But at high temperatures, the thermal paste that is between the processor and the fan more malleable; in other words, in a dry state, the process of removing the cooler can become a real problem. But this does not work for all types of thermal pastes. It will not work with KPT-8: it is pasty at any temperature.
I advise you to remove the fan when the radiator is still warm. When you touch it, your hand will be warm, but not hot.
2. Turn off the power to the cooler.
To do this, pull the plug strictly vertically.
Any loosening is not allowed. Break the needle.
3. Remove fan mount.
The type of fastener depends on the motherboard and each specific device. Some computers use brackets, others use some kind of latches. At first, this seems like a problem, but in fact - nothing overly complicated.
If there are bolts, then unscrew them against hour hand.
4. Above was the prelude, now we will perform the action itself. When everything is disconnected, pull out the cooler with the radiator. And then they will come. PROBLEMS.
With 90% probability, the CPU literally stuck to the cooling. Because of the thermal paste. Be extremely careful: shake up and down, left and right, clockwise, etc. Gradually increase strength and range. It is forbidden to rush or immediately show excessive efforts.
Do not be surprised or afraid if, along with cooling, you pull the processor out of its native socket.
P.S. turning on the computer without a fan is killing the processor. With a guarantee and control shot. Do not do it this way. Also, before assembly, do not be lazy
Hi all! Today I’ll tell you how to solve the problem when the radiator was removed from the processor. When repairing personal computers, laptops and servers, it is often necessary to carry out preventive dust cleaning with the replacement of thermal paste.
As is known, dried thermal paste can hold the processor to the heatsink quite strongly. This problem is especially acute for old computers on Socket 478 and other pin connectors. It turns out, when you want to remove the heatsink to replace the thermal paste, the heatsink is removed with the processor.
Of course, the most reasonable way to separate the radiator is gently rotate it along the plane of the motherboard while the processor is still in the socket.
However, such a trick does not work with cooling, in which the radiator mounting system has a bounding box or capacitors are close to the socket - here it will not work to crank the radiator.
Removing the heatsink from the processor is easiest if pull the heatsink up along with the processor. It turns out such a picture.
How to apply new thermal paste
We install the processor in place in the socket. In my case, cleaning the insides of the server was required, so the photo shows a two-processor system. With the second processor, I did the same as with the first - everything went well.
