Falcon is nearby. The building of the Serebryany Bor railway station complex
Opens a new section in which he talks about atypical places in the city for walking. There are much more of them than residents of our metropolis are used to thinking. Almost every district and corner of the capital keeps secrets of the past, interesting stories about residents, houses or streets.
In the first issue we talk about the sights of the Sokol district: from the house of football player Lev Yashin to the fire tower, which was almost turned into shopping mall.
The falcon appeared on the site of the village of Vsekhsvyatskoye, known since the 14th century, and the Fraternal Cemetery located nearby. For a long time The area belonged to the Moscow region, and only in 1917 it became part of Moscow. In 1923, a cooperative village for artists Sokol appeared in the area, and subsequently the entire area was named that way. One of the most prestigious places on Sokol during the Soviet years was the Sandy Streets area. Officials, prominent military men, athletes and cultural figures lived in Stalin's houses. In the second half of the 20th century, Leningradsky Prospekt was even jokingly called “TRASH”, that is, “Artists, Writers, Artists, Musicians”. And today there are many memorial plaques on the facades of houses, and the apartments are still some of the most prestigious and expensive in the city.
Comment from a Muscovite
Nina, medical worker: My great-grandfather traded in Vsekhsvyatsky hay at the beginning of the 20th century. Then it was one of the largest villages near the city at the beginning of the road from Moscow to St. Petersburg. Carts and crews stopped there for “refueling”; there were teahouses - analogues of today's roadside cafes. It turned out to be such a big “gas station”. It’s impossible to imagine now, but it happened.Church of All Saints, Leningradsky Prospekt, 73a
The church is unique, if only because the bell tower of the building is tilted, which is why it resembles the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The slope, of course, was not intended by the architect. This happened due to the characteristics of the soil, the underground river and the metro station.
The church is functioning; if you wish, you can go inside or just stroll around the yard. This is the only Orthodox church in the area. In the late 70s, the church was one of the most visited in Moscow. Several decades earlier, in 1939, the church was closed in disgrace by the communists, accompanied by a public burning of icons in the courtyard. However, seven years later, residents of the area achieved the return of the church.
Resident's comment
Natalia, 35 years old, television worker:“There is practically nowhere to walk in our area (due to the nature of the infrastructure - there are many roads), but it is possible to conduct excursions in the style of “the past and thoughts about it” - this is where our famous houses can come in handy - they were lived in interesting people with interesting lives. Our region is also known for the fact that four dozen rivers flow under it.”General's House, Leningradsky Prospekt, 75
Literally a few steps from the temple is the general's house. The housing was built for high-ranking military personnel, which is why its decorations correspond to a military theme. For example, on the facade you can see flagpoles with images of stars. The house is known, first of all, for the fact that 29 Heroes of the Soviet Union and the legendary hockey coach Anatoly Tarasov lived in it.
Fire Tower, Leningradsky Prospekt, 71a
Previously, from the tower one could see a fire within a radius of several kilometers, today only the windows of houses in the neighborhood could be seen. This tower is practically the last one in the city (another one can be found in Sokolniki). Today, Moscow fire departments also have towers, but they are not used to inspect the area in search of fire, but are used, for example, as a room for drying uniforms.
Ten years ago, the tower and fire station were to be turned into a shopping center. But the building is located on the territory of the facilities cultural heritage, and stores never appeared on the site of the fire station.
Resident's comment
Kirill, 24 years old, engineer:“I adore Sokol and I think that everyone who lives here has the same opinion. Sokol is incomparable, and most importantly, there are almost no panel high-rise buildings here, well, maybe two or three. It’s beautiful, spacious, and there’s so much greenery! Nobody would move from Sokol "I wouldn't want to. Surely there are some downsides, but I almost never encountered them. Only one - rats. There were a lot of them, but they seem to have solved the problem for about two years now."Admiral's House, Leningradsky Prospekt, 71
Very close to the tower there is a large residential building looking towards Leningradka. The Stalinist building is called the Admiral's building. The point is not that the most famous admiral of the Russian fleet once lived in the house. It’s just that the decoration of the building uses a water theme: from seahorses to anchors and steering wheels. This house is one of the most beautiful on Sokol. True, the first floor is covered with colorful shop posters, which gives the historical building a somewhat specific appearance.
Former air force clinic-hospital, Sandy street, 7
Previously, this building housed the city's main hospital for civil aviation employees. That is why at the clinic there is a small sculpture of pioneers with a model of an airplane. If you look closely, on the facade of the building you can see two pairs of clocks showing the correct time. By the way, the building itself was not built for a clinic, but for a pedagogical college. Now there is also a hospital there. True, not for everyone who works in our aviation, but only for Aeroflot employees.
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History and modernity of the village of Sokol
The village "Sokol" is a monument to urban planning of the first years of Soviet power. In 1918, architects I.V. Zholtovsky and A.V. Shchusev created the “New Moscow” Master Plan. The plan provided for the creation of many small centers on the outskirts of Moscow, conceived as garden cities, directly connected to the historical center of the capital by transport routes.
Sokol was the first experimental step in the implementation of this project, which was supposed to serve as a standard for further housing construction. Construction of the village began in the fall of 1923 in accordance with the “New Moscow” master plan. At that time, the Sokolniki district was actively being developed in Moscow, where the village was originally planned to be located, and therefore it was called “Sokol”. But due to damp soil, this area was abandoned, and the area between the village of Vsekhsvyatskoye and the Serebryany Bor station of the Moscow Circular Railway was allocated for development. At the time of its development, on the site where the village was built there was a landfill of the Izolyator plant and a vacant lot on which several pine trees grew. There was once a part of All Saints Grove here that was damaged by the 1911 hurricane.
After the construction of the village was moved from the Sokolniki area, it was decided to keep the name so as not to change the documentation and the emblem: a flying falcon with a house on its paws.
According to the original project, the village should be surrounded from the west by the village of Vsekhsvyatsky, from the south by Pesochnaya Street and a dense pine park, in the depths of which the Romashka sanatorium was located since pre-revolutionary times (on the site of the modern house 12 building 14 on Alabyan Street), from the east - by the District Railway road, from the north - Volokolamsk highway.
Vrubel Street was supposed to divide the village in half. Today the village is located between Alabyan, Levitan, Panfilov, Vrubel streets and Maly Peschany Lane. The village project was created during the NEP era by outstanding Russian architects and artists, including: academician A.B. Shchusev, N.V. Markovnikov, P.Ya. Pavlinov, Vesnin brothers, P.A. Florensky, N.V. Colley, I.I. Kondakov and others.
The first chairman of the board of the village was the chairman of the artists' trade union V.F. Sakharov. This determined the entry into the cooperative of several famous Moscow artists and sculptors, who played a significant role in the life of the village.
The main architect of the village and its resident (house 12/24 on Shishkina Street) was the architect Nikolai Vladimirovich Markovnikov (1869-1942). Construction was carried out under the leadership of foreman A.K. Lukashov (Vereshchagina street, 4) and foreman E.A. Gavrilina (Surikova street, 20). The village was built entirely at the expense of developers, who became only wealthy people, since membership in the cooperative was not cheap: 10 gold chervonets when joining the Partnership, 30 when allocating a plot, 20 when starting construction. The cost of one cottage was about 600 gold chervonets. Those who could not contribute a share to the cooperative for a separate cottage could count on a cheaper apartment in six-apartment buildings. The developers of the village were party leaders, people's commissariat workers, economists, doctors, teachers, artists, technical intelligentsia, and workers of the Izolyator plant. Several versions of the master plan for the Sokol village were developed with the participation of academician of architecture Alexei Viktorovich Shchusev, architects Nikolai Vladimirovich Markovnikov, Vesnin brothers - Leonid Alexandrovich and Viktor Alexandrovich. According to the approved plan, signed by V.A. Vesnin, it was planned to build 320 houses. However, this project was not fully implemented - the entire area was divided into 270 construction sites, on average 200 square fathoms each. The first meeting of developers decided to build a village with a large supply of green space and a minimum permissible building area, with small two- and one-apartment buildings, with convenient communication routes connecting the village with the center. Blind fences were not allowed and it was forbidden to develop more than a third of the site. The main avenue of the village (Bolshaya Street, now Polenova Street) - 20 fathoms wide (about 40 meters) allowed for a significant area of plantings, with two-row planting of trees on each side. In the original project, the streets were named differently than they are now: Bolshaya, Shkolnaya, Telefonnaya, Uyutnaya. New names in honor of Russian artists (Shishkin, Savrasov, Polenov, Bryullov, Kiprensky, Vereshchagin, Serov, Kramskoy, Surikov, Levitan) appeared when the village was already populated, and with them the legend that these famous artists lived here in order to protect themselves from attacks on the land. This idea belonged to one of the developers, a graphic artist, one of the leading professors of VKHUTEMAS (Higher Art and Technical Workshops) Pavel Yakovlevich Pavlinov (23B Surikova Street). By the end of 1924, the first block of houses between Surikov, Kiprensky, Levitan and Polenov streets was “turnkey”.
They were the first in the country to begin to master the experience of self-government in a partnership called the Sokol Housing and Construction Cooperative Partnership. On a voluntary basis, residents organized: a store (1926), a kindergarten, a canteen, a library, sports grounds, a club theater, a children's toy club (under the ideological leadership of the director of the toy museum N.O. Bartram), a dance club (taught by a student Isadora Duncan), the first cell in Moscow of the “Society of Friends of Green Spaces” (organized by agronomist N.I. Lyubimov), sewing artel “Women’s Labor” (organized by A.G. Lyubimova).
The Sokol cooperative was created on the basis of a construction company, which used it as an exhibition site where the best examples of low-rise construction were presented. Initially, three types of houses were designed: log houses imitating Russian architecture, frame-fill houses similar to English cottages, brick houses with attics similar to German mansions.
In 1936, by decree of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR, the activities of housing cooperatives were terminated. The cooperative was liquidated, the village board ceased to function, and all the houses in the village became the property of the city.
In the early 1930s. More than half of its territory from Vrubel Street to Volokolamsk Highway was confiscated from the village of Sokol. Over the course of 4 years, 18 houses were built on this territory for NKVD workers (2 houses have survived to this day), a boiler room and a club.
During Stalin's repressions there were mass arrests in almost every house.
In 1941, the German army approached Moscow. Sokol was located at the very beginning of the Volokolamsk route, from where the Germans were advancing. In the fall of 1941, Sokol became part of the second line of defense on the border of Moscow: women and children cut down the pine trees of the park to build a defensive line along the Circular Railway and in the village itself. A barricade with embrasures, an anti-tank ditch and gouges stretched across the entire territory of the village. 13 high-explosive bombs fell on the village. Several buildings were razed to the ground, a bomb hit the bomb shelter of house No. 17 on Surikov Street and killed five members of the Shatilov family.
After the Great Patriotic War, the residents of the village were forcibly compacted, their houses were turned into communal apartments according to the norm of 6 meters per person.
In 1946-1948. All houses in the village were connected to the city sewerage system (before that there were cesspools) and gas stoves were installed in the kitchens.
In the early 1950s, when mass housing construction began in Moscow, the Sokol village was under threat of demolition. The struggle of the residents of the village began for its preservation, because its territory has always represented a “tidbit” for developers.
In 1979, the Moscow City Council accepted the Sokol architectural and planning complex for state protection as a “monument of urban planning of the first years of Soviet power.”
The village became the third on the list of monuments of that period of history, after the Mausoleum and the Northern River Station. This protected it from demolition, but did not provide funds for maintenance and repair. The district executive committee wrote that it had not been able to finance the maintenance of the village for 15 years, and until 1989 the residents swept the streets themselves.
In 1989, the village residents decided to recreate the territorial public administration (TPS) in order to preserve the Falcon. By the time self-government was organized, the heating had failed in 6 houses, the roofs were leaking in half the houses, there was not a single janitor left in the village, and the district had no funds for repair work.
The community of the village created the Sokol agency, which provides legal, accounting and organizational services to teams of workers and individuals who performed work under contracts. According to the agency's charter, its creators worked there on a voluntary basis, and all profits from their activities were directed to the repair and improvement of the village.
The local government managed to prepare all the houses in the village for the winter of 1989. In 1991, the Sokol Council achieved the transfer to self-government of residential and part of non-residential buildings on the territory of the monument. On the 75th anniversary of the village, the Sokol village museum was created. The director of the museum is Ekaterina Mikhailovna Alekseeva, Doctor of Historical Sciences, leading researcher at the Institute of Archeology of the Russian Academy of Sciences.
In 2013, the village turned 90 years old. In the years since construction began, the village has found itself practically in the center of the metropolis and has miraculously survived to this day. Currently, there are 117 houses in the Sokol village. Many famous people still live there.
Now the Sokol village is also a 24-hour open city park with a rich collection of thousands of green spaces. Its streets are one of the favorite walking places for residents of the surrounding neighborhoods. Here all year round you can meet students from the Moscow Art Institute named after Surikov, the College of Architecture and other art universities in Moscow in the open air.
However, gradually, one after another, the old wooden houses that remember the first inhabitants of the village are disappearing into oblivion, and their place is taken by sophisticated cottages of the newly minted nouveau riche, striking in their tastelessness and unintentional kitsch. The visual violence is completed by five-meter fences, which deprive the village of Sokol of its value as a “monument of urban planning of the first years of Soviet power.” Now it is a monument to the urban chaos that has been going on here for the last two decades.
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Halabyana street, 8/2
Sokol village, Alabyana street, 8/2, Sokol metro station
The house in the depths of an apple orchard has retained its original structure and appearance.
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Levitana street, 4
Sokol village, Levitana street, 4, Sokol metro station
Residential building 1923-1933 the buildings. Architect N.V. Markovnikov.
In 1935, this house was damaged and was included in news reports. On May 18, 1935, in the sky above the village of Sokol, as a result of a collision with an escort fighter, the largest Soviet aircraft, the ANT-20 Maxim Gorky, crashed. Plane debris fell on the village. Everyone on board the planes died, but there were no casualties among the village residents.
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House-workshop of artist A.M. Gerasimova
Sokol village, Levitana street, 6A, Sokol metro station
People's Artist of the USSR Alexander Mikhailovich Gerasimov (1881-1963) lived here.
The house was built in 1936 according to the design of A.M. Gerasimova.
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Levitana street, 10
Sokol village, Levitana street, 10, Sokol metro station
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Levitana street, 20
Sokol village, Levitana street, 20, Sokol metro station
Residential wooden house from the 1930s. the buildings. Architect N.V. Markovnikov.
One of the few buildings that has retained its original appearance.
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The building of the Serebryany Bor railway station complex
Sokol village, Panfilova street, 6A, Sokol metro station
Built at the beginning of the 20th century in the Art Nouveau style under the leadership of the author of GUM, architect Alexander Nikanorovich Pomerantsev.
The complex of buildings of the Serebryany Bor railway station with a station, barracks, warehouses, switchboard centralization booths was built in 1908 on the Okrug Railway. Some buildings have retained their authentic appearance, while others have partially or completely lost the details of their historical façade design. The Serebryany Bor railway station of the Moscow Circular Railway was the main transport hub of the Sokol village - Vrubel Street (formerly Tsentralnaya Street) is oriented towards it.
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Surikova street, 3
Sokol village, Surikova street, 3, Sokol metro station
Residential building from the 1930s. the buildings. Architect N.V. Markovnikov.
One of the recognizable projects of a residential building, the author of which was the architect N.V. Markovnikov.
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Vereshchagina street, 2/8
Sokol village, Vereshchagina street, 2/8 (Surikova street, 8/2), Sokol metro station
A two-story residential building built in 1929. Architect I.I. Kondakov.
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Surikova street, 9/1
Sokol village, Surikova street, 9/1, Sokol metro station
Wooden house built in 1924. Architect N.V. Markovnikov.
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Two-story six-apartment house
Sokol village, Surikova street, 14/2, Sokol metro station
Built in the 1930s. Architect N.S. Durnbaum. Demolished at the beginning of 2009.
The two-story, six-unit building was built in the 1930s. for the organizations “Zagotzerno” and “Moskhleb”. Before the war, a swimming pool was built on the roof of the house. Film actor Vsevolod Safonov lived here. Demolished at the beginning of 2009. Currently, in its place stands a mansion that has nothing to do with the historical buildings of the village.
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The central square of the village "Sokol" ("Star Square")
Sokol village, Central Square, Sokol metro station
It was formed at the intersection of Polenova, Surikova, Shishkin streets.
IN different parts The square contains: a granite monument to the residents of the village of Sokol who died in the Great Patriotic War, a memorial sign in the form of numbers that display the number of years since the founding of the village and a children's playground.
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Surikova street, 16/7
Sokol village, Surikova street, 16/7, Sokol metro station
Residential building built in 1923. Architect N.V. Markovnikov.
The facade of the house faces the central square of the village - Zvezda Square. Wonderful grapes and flowers grow in the garden.
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"Watchtower" by the Vesnin brothers
Sokol village, Surikova street, 19/5 (Polenova street 5/19), Sokol metro station
Residential 2-storey house 1923–1924. the buildings. Architects: Vesnin brothers.
Four residential buildings in the form of two-story watchtowers designed by the Vesnin brothers adorned the beginning and end of Polenov Street. This house, facing the central square of the village, was remodeled for the new owner according to the design of the village architect Mikhail Aleksandrovich Posevkin in the 2000s. in compliance with historical proportions.
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Surikova street, 21
Sokol village, Surikova street, 21, Sokol metro station
A two-story log house with a sloping hipped roof was built according to the design of architect Viktor Vesnin in 1923–1924.
The Vologda hut by architect Viktor Vesnin is also the “calling card” of the village.
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Surikova street, 21A
Sokol village, Surikova street, 21A, Sokol metro station
Experimental two-story red brick residential building. Architect Z.M. Rosenfeld.
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Surikova street, 22/2
Sokol village, Surikova street, 22/2, Sokol metro station
Wooden two-story residential building. Built in 1923–1924. Architect N.V. Markovnikov.
A wooden two-story residential building is a kind of “ business card» village "Sokol".
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The house in which the architect V.A. lived Vesnin
Sokol village, Surikova street, 23/2, Sokol metro station
Log residential building built in 1924. Architects: Vesnin brothers.
Architect Viktor Aleksandrovich Vesnin lived in this two-story log house with a sloping hip roof.
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The house in which the graphic artist P.Ya lived. Pavlinov
Sokol village, Surikova street, 23B, Sokol metro station
Log residential house. Built in 1925. Architects: Vesnin brothers.
In this house from 1925 to 1966. lived the graphic artist P.Ya. Pavlinov (1881–1966).
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House of the family of artist-sculptors Faydysh-Krandievsky
Sokol village, Surikova street, 29/6, Sokol metro station
Built in 1930. Architect N.V. Markovnikov.
Architectural monuments of the village of Sokol
The Sokol metro station was opened on September 11, 1938 (only with the Eastern vestibule) and at that time was the final station of the Gorkovsko-Zamoskvoretskaya line.
The station got its name from the nearby village of Sokol, although it was located in the center of the former village of Vsekhsvyatskoye (became part of Moscow in 1917). According to the original project, the station was called that, but for ideological reasons this name was abandoned.
The design used to build the station is not typical for the Moscow metro. This is a column-mounted two-span shallow station (10 m). The designers faced a difficult task due to the peculiarities of this station. It was assumed that the passenger flow at this station would be small, and therefore the platform was designed to be small in width - only 8 m. The architects had two possible solutions such a station: single-vaulted or with a colonnade along the central axis. Brothers K.N. and Yu.N. The Yakovlevs opted for a one-column solution. However, the columns were used as plinth supports for horizontal vaults placed at a distance of 7.4 m. The result was a platform hall consisting of two parallel vaults, which rest on the central row of supports and on the side walls. The massive columns at the base expand upward, and the spans between the supports turn into domes. This compositional solution does not divide the station into two parts, but combines it into one whole with tents, making it complete and organic.
The platform hall is, as it were, divided by a cross bridge into two parts; it is connected to the platform by wide stairs.
An interesting detail: previously the station was illuminated only by light rings-reflectors, which are located under the domes and hidden by pieces of transparent onyx. This ensured uniform illumination of the station hall. Later additional floodlights were installed.
The eastern vestibule is made in the form of an independent pavilion, which was supposed to take the central place of the courtyard (the front courtyard open to the street), formed by the U-shaped future building. However, this project was never realized. The pavilion was conceived by the Yakovlev architects in the form of a semicircle, with separate entrances and exits located at the ends of the building. They contain staircases that connect in the underground ticket hall. Then, through the underground passage, you get to the bridge, which is located in the station hall. The semicircular walls of the pavilion have large window openings.
The West Lobby opened on December 21, 1949. It is a two-story U-shaped building, also with separate entrances and exits and staircases that converge at the ticket hall. In its center there is a massive column.
During the Great Patriotic War, this metro station served as a bomb shelter.
It is currently an identified cultural heritage site.
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