DIY wooden computer case. DIY system unit

This page contains several dozen electrical circuit diagrams and useful links to resources related to the topic of equipment repair. Mainly computer. Remembering how much effort and time sometimes had to be spent searching necessary information, reference book or diagram, I have collected here almost everything that I used during repairs and that I had in in electronic format. I hope this is of some use to someone. cables.zip - Cable routing - Directory in .chm format. Author this file— Kucheryavenko Pavel Andreevich. Most of the source documents were taken from the site pinouts.ru - brief descriptions and pinouts of more than 1000 connectors, cables, adapters. Descriptions of buses, slots, interfaces. Not only computer technology, but also Cell Phones, GPS receivers, audio, photo and video equipment, gaming consoles,car interfaces. Capacitor 1.0 - The program is designed to determine the capacitance of a capacitor by color marking (12 types of capacitors). startcopy.ru - in my opinion, this is one of the best sites on the Runet dedicated to the repair of printers, copiers, multifunctional devices. You can find techniques and recommendations for fixing almost any problem with any printer. Wiring for ATX power supply connectors (ATX12V) with ratings and color coding of wires: ATXPower.rar - Block diagrams ATX power supply 250 SG6105, IW-P300A2, and 2 circuits of unknown origin. colors_it_330u_sg6105.gif — NUITEK (COLORS iT) 330U power supply circuit. codegen_250.djvu — PSU diagram Codegen 250w mod. 200XA1 mod. 250XA1. codegen_300x.gif — PSU diagram Codegen 300w mod. 300X. deltadps200.gif - PSU diagram Delta Electronics Inc. model DPS-200-59 H REV:00. deltadps260.ARJ — Power supply diagram Delta Electronics Inc. model DPS-260-2A. DTK_PTP_2038.gif — DTK PTP-2038 200W power supply circuit. FSP145-60SP.GIF — Power supply diagram FSP Group Inc. model FSP145-60SP. green_tech_300.gif — Green Tech power supply diagram. model MAV-300W-P4. HIPER_HPU-4K580.rar — HIPER HPU-4K580 power supply circuits hpc-360-302.pdf - Power supply diagram SIRTEC INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD. HPC-360-302 DF REV:C0 hpc-420-302.pdf - Power supply diagram SIRTEC INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD. HPC-420-302 DF REV:C0 iwp300a2.gif — Power supply circuits INWIN IW-P300A2-0 R1.2. IW-ISP300AX.gif - INWIN IW-P300A3-1 Powerman power supply circuits. JNC_LC-B250ATX.gif - JNC Computer Co. LTD LC-B250ATX JNC_SY-300ATX.pdf - JNC Computer Co. LTD. SY-300ATX power supply diagram JNC_SY-300ATX.rar - presumably manufactured by JNC Computer Co. LTD. Power supply SY-300ATX. The diagram is hand-drawn, comments and recommendations for improvement. KME_pm-230.GIF — Power supply circuits Key Mouse Electronics Co Ltd model PM-230W Power_Master_LP-8_AP5E.gif — Power supply circuit diagrams Power Master model LP-8 ver 2.03 230W (AP-5-E v1.1). Power_Master_FA_5_2_v3-2.gif — Power supply circuit diagrams Power Master model FA-5-2 ver 3.2 250W. MaxpowerPX-300W.GIF — Maxpower PX-300W power supply diagram microlab350w.pdf - Microlab 350W power supply circuit microlab_400w.pdf - Microlab 400W power supply circuit linkworld_LPJ2-18.GIF — Powerlink LPJ2-18 300W power supply diagram SevenTeam_ST-200HRK.gif — SevenTeam ST-200HRK power supply diagram SHIDO_ATX-250.gif — Schemes of the power supply SHIDO model LP-6100 250W. SUNNY_ATX-230.png — PSU diagram SUNNY TECHNOLOGIES CO. LTD ATX-230 splitter.arj - 2 circuit diagrams ADSL - splitters. KS3A.djvu - Documentation and diagrams for 29″ TVs on the KS3A chassis. GFL2.20E.pdf - Documentation and diagrams for Philips TVs on the GFL2.20E chassis. To the top of the page     |     On home page site

Stylish DIY wooden PC case

The best computer case in the mid-price category

Hello, I'm collecting gaming computer. Could you please review cases in the price category up to 5,000 rubles. Thank you in advance.

The case of any PC is not only a “container” for fans, hard drives expansion boards, cables and wires, but also a reflection of the owner’s individuality.

It’s not for nothing that most experts say that you can’t save on the body. It's better to get a smaller hard drive, but the "right" model should have an outstanding design, be heavy and cool, and have good capacity. Saving will certainly lead to overheating of the insides of your PC, significant noise and rattling of poorly fitted parts.

Most active users can say with confidence what PC configuration they want, but almost no one knows which case is best for a computer. Our company’s specialists decided to fill this gap and prepared a review of several popular models that have recently appeared on the domestic market. And if you wish, we can purchase and deliver all the necessary equipment.

Zalman Z9 Plus Black

Let's start the review of Zalman Z9 Plus Black, which is the most inexpensive, but quite high-quality and popular model among “advanced” PC users. This device is made of steel and has an impressive weight, so we can say with confidence that it will not “bounce” from four 120 mm coolers working at full power. Two fans are included in the kit, and two can be purchased separately. The control unit built into the case will allow you to regulate the speed, which will have a positive effect on the low noise level of the fans.

• The device is made in the Midi Tower form factor with dimensions standard for such models: 173x432x490. However, there is enough space for five 3.5” bays, three 5, 25” and one 2.5” internal bays, one external 3.5” and seven expansion slots, with the ability to install cards , up to 29 cm long.
• In addition, this case still has enough space to install a cooling water pump. Zalman Z9 Plus Black is designed for installation of ATX and mATX form factor motherboards.
• The design of this device is quite classic and discreet, although it is possible to decorate the space of the front cooler with LCD backlighting.

This device completely refutes the fact that cheap computer cases are never good.

Zalman Z9 Plus Black can be confidently called a fairly high-quality device in the price category up to 2,500 rubles.

Cooller Master CM STORM SNIPER SGC 6000

This PC case is made in the MiddleTower form factor and has dimensions of 219x496x489 mm. It is designed for two types of motherboards: ATX, Micro ATX. This device, of course, cannot be called a new product in our stores, but due to its spaciousness, workmanship, fairly aggressive design and relatively low price, it is popular among PC users and gamers.

• In its upper part there is a platform with interface connectors: 4 – USB 2.0, eSATA, audio connectors for headphones and speakers. In addition, there is a handle on the case for carrying the system unit.
• This model is quite roomy: it is equipped with five internal compartments of 3.5”; five external bays of 5.25” and one external bay of 3.5” and seven connectors for expansion cards.
• Cooling in this model is provided by three coolers: one 140 mm with red backlight, mounted directly in front of the drive compartment and located in the front part of this device.

  Unusual modding - do-it-yourself computer in a wooden case

  There is a decorative grille in front of the fan, behind which there is a coarse air filter. The same cooler is installed at the top of the device, and one, 120 mm, is installed at the rear. This device can also be equipped with two 120 mm fans or one 140 mm, which fits perfectly on the side panel. At the rear of the case there are two rubber membranes for the water cooling hoses.

In general, the Cooller Master CM STORM SNIPER SGC 6000 can be safely called a very heavy gaming computer case, with an excellent cooling system, good build quality, fairly low fan noise, an aggressive design and a convenient interface panel.

Disadvantages include an ill-conceived cable management system and a non-removable filter on the front panel. The average cost of the device is 2,700 rubles.

CoollerMaster STORM ENFORCER

This review should start with the design, which is quite powerful and aggressive. The weight of this device cannot but rejoice: almost 9 kg with dimensions of 229 x 485 x 524 mm. The door that immediately catches your eye is the door at the top front of the device, which hides 4 5.25” compartments. The lower front part is covered with a metal mesh and a removable plastic grille, behind which hides a powerful 200 mm fan with LCD backlight, and another 4 5.25” compartments. In the upper front part there is a control unit with two USB ports 2.0; two USB 3.0 ports. audio jacks and power button.

• Half of the upper part of the case takes up space for installing an additional fan. Based on the dimensions, you can safely install another 200 mm huge cooler.
• This model is designed for a bottom-mounted power supply. Above it there is space for seven expansion cards, a cutout for a communication card or an additional interface unit and a 120 mm fan. In addition, the model is equipped with space for a cooling water pump. At the very top of the rear of the housing there are three rubber membranes to hold the cooling system hoses. There is a removable dust filter on the bottom of the device.
• Despite its good capacity, it cannot be said that this is a very large computer case. Good quality assembly, excellent performance of the cooling system when tested on a bench, low noise level, good system cable management and a rather bold and unusual design make the Cooller Master STORM ENFORCER an excellent candidate for purchase.

But this model also has some disadvantages, which seemed quite significant to us.

1. High average price, which is 4,700 rubles.
2. Dust filters are of fairly low quality.

Despite all the advantages of Cooller Master STORM ENFORCER, high price body brought it only to second place in our review.

The fairly inexpensive model Cooller Master CM STORM SNIPER SGC 6000 was recognized as the best case for a computer in the price category up to 5,000 thousand rubles.

Did you find the answer to your question? Help others find it too.

Hello! About a year ago I bought an Iconbit HD400Le media player without hard drive for watching movies, mainly High Quality. And in order to store large-sized films somewhere, I adapted old computer under a NAS server, installed FreeNAS there, connected it to a media player via a router, and slowly watched movies on the network, everything would be fine, but the black system unit constantly buzzing in the corner did not give aesthetic peace.
And as it usually happens, suddenly the opportunity arose to replace my old computer with new components, and most importantly, change the ATX motherboard to mATX, and this is where the idea was born to create a compact NAS server, and even in a transparent case, to please the eye and give peace of mind !


I note that everything was done from improvised means, I only had to buy a small power supply, and some materials and tools (a 3.5-inch 500GB HDD was sold, and with the money I received I bought a 2.5-inch 320GB HDD).

So we have the following:
Accessories:
Mat. board - Asus P5kpl-am se mATX
Processor - Intel E6400 -
Memory - Kingston 1GB DDR2 800Mhz low profile
Hard drive - WD 320Gb 5400RPM 2.5 inches -1200 RUR
Power supply - IP-AD160-2 from In Win case, Mini-ITX 160W - 1050 RUR
Flash drive with system
Materials:
Pieces of plexiglass (found at the school where I studied)
Metal mesh (bought at the building materials market)
Round buttons from the Lego constructor (Incl. Reboot)
Aluminum strips for mounting the HDD (I cut it myself from a 1.2 mm aluminum sheet)
Rubber strips - to suppress vibration from the HDD (bought on the market)
Glue
Alcohol
4 rubber gaskets for plumbing (bought in the plumbing department for 2 rubles)
Tools:
Cutter for plexiglass (bought at the market)
Metal scissors (bought at the market)
File and needle file
Mini drill
Screwdriver
Pliers
Ruler
Marker

During the process, many things came to mind after I did something wrong (for example, I made holes in the base at the very end, when I realized that the board was getting too hot), so some photos will show ready-made future parts.

1) Let's start with the base; I cut out a rectangle () from plexiglass, slightly larger in size than the mat. board, drilled 4 holes for mounting the mat. board, screwed in screws with a hole instead of a head, onto which I placed the board and screwed it on. On the back side where the screws come out, I glued rubber gaskets to create vibration-damping legs.

Rice. 1.1

Rice. 1.2

The power and HDD indicators now look like this.

Rice. 1.3

2) I cut out the walls, drilled ventilation holes for the power supply, holes for the motherboard and buttons, drilled a lot of holes in the base, and glued them together. I glued the walls to the base, and to the side walls I glued L-shaped fasteners for mounting the power supply, made from bent plugs for a computer.

The lid will be made of dense mesh for better ventilation; to secure it, hot metal wires (paper clips) are inserted into the ends of the walls.

Rice. 2

3) I cut small strips of plexiglass, made fastenings for the buttons and for the hard drive.

Rice. 3.1

Rice. 3.2

4) Installed the board into the case, glued it Power buttons and Reset

Rice.

Rice. 4.2

5) I spray painted the power supply and mesh black.

Rice.

6) Made a mount for the hard drive: 2 aluminum strips, 2 soft rubber strips, large screws.

Rice. 6.1

Rice. 6.2

Rice. 6.3

Rice. 6.4

7) Installed the mounting structure from the HDD into the case. At the same time I connected a flash drive and a red fan for the processor. For better ventilation of the power supply, the holes were replaced with mesh; two windows were previously cut out: at the back and at the front.

Rice. 7.1

The flash drive is connected to the internal USB on the mat. board

Rice. 7.2

8) Final stage. Install the mesh cover.

Rice. 8.1

Rice. 8.2

And this is how it looks in the interior.

Rice. 8.3

Dimensions of the resulting case: 270x200x110, i.e. slightly larger than the mat itself.

DIY wooden PC case

Rice. 9

Work on mistakes.
While I was making this body, I had to change and redo a lot along the way. At the very beginning of the project, 2 small zones of ventilation holes were planned, above the processor fan and power supply, but this turned out to be not enough, the air inside the case heated up to 80-100 degrees, as a result, the entire top cover turned into a huge ventilation zone.

Rice. 10

The first HDD mount was made of the same plexiglass, and was simply inserted into the case, without glue or screws; due to this design, the working HDD vibrated strongly. I had to make a completely new design again.

Rice. 11.1

Rice. 11.2

The power supply mount was initially on the top cover, it just clung and hung, which turned out to be very inconvenient.

Rice. 12

In general, think! before you do anything. I completed this project in about 3 weeks of evenings.

In the future, make a switchable backlight of 4 LEDs, add one more HDD(space allows and new mounts are already ready) so that the data is mirrored and it is possible to replace this slightly flexible mesh with a perforated aluminum sheet, it would be more beautiful.

Personal modding collection

So, about a year and a half ago, I first came across the Clear Tech transparent case, or I don’t remember exactly what it was called. Since then, I had a vague idea that it would be nice for me to do something similar. Once again, having carefully examined it, I realized that a repetition was out of the question, especially since my financial capabilities were severely limited. Therefore, I created my own construct, perhaps not so spectacular, but quite viable, and also suitable for repetition. We can speak about this with complete confidence, since when I started making one body, I made three of them, their names are in the title.

I’ll make a reservation that guys who haven’t held a caliper in their hands are unlikely to take on such a design; perhaps they should first practice and try to create something simpler, like this lamp.

Just to learn how to cut and glue plexiglass. I probably won’t write about these simplest operations, because... this has been done many times before me.

In general, judge for yourself - making such a case is quite simple. When making it, I did not draw drawings, since I did not buy plexiglass in the store (it is a rather expensive thing), but looked for it at my work (well, for example, a sheet of red plexiglass, which was enough for the entire body of the KTP-5 ROUGE, cost into a bottle of vodka), but this led to an additional difficulty - I had to always take into account the different thicknesses of the plexiglass so that overall everything would look quite neat.

So, first you need to have material for the side and rear walls, for the side, large enough walls, you should not take plexiglass thinner than 5 mm, the rear wall must be at least 8 mm thick. Then you can start making the top and bottom covers. The bottom cover is cut out of 10 mm plexiglass, the top - 6 mm. Both covers should be absolutely identical, naturally, first I made the thick bottom cover, and then fitted the thinner top one on top of it. If possible, it is better to mill both covers in one pass. Next are 4 vertical posts. They are also cut from 10mm plex, at the bottom of each, two holes with M3 threads, at the top, one M3 hole. I drilled the front racks for the trim of the covers, the rear racks are indented for the rear wall, which is also made of 10 mm plexiglass, since it carries a heavy power supply. I must say that I have not come across plexiglass, the thickness of which would be expressed in such round numbers as 6 and 10. In fact, everywhere the thickness size came in tenths and hundredths, for example 6.35 and 10.2. So, the principle, measure twice, cut once, applies here 100%.

After these 6 parts were screwed together, I immediately screwed the plastic legs to the bottom cover so as not to further scratch the nascent case. The frame is ready, and we can say that a third of the work is done. Of course there is enough left big job, but from this moment on, everything that is done is done visually. We make the back wall, its dimensions, if you follow the above drawing, are 470x (140 minus the double thickness of the side wall). Those. if the side walls are made of 6.35mm plexi, then the width of the back cover is 140-(6.35x2)=127.3.

It’s probably worth saying a few words right away about the sizes. These dimensions are not something super-rational; I took them almost from the ceiling. And as you can see in the photos, they can be easily changed.

So the back wall. We have decided on its general dimensions; it can already be screwed into its rightful place, but that’s not all, because the back wall carries many functional loads. At this stage it is the turn motherboard. It is installed on a piece of plexiglass measuring 600x290x4. This piece of plex is secured to the inner sides of the vertical posts with four M3 screws. There is no need for great precision here, and the thickness of this piece does not play a big role. But then you will need to act extremely carefully. Modern motherboards have an average of 9-12 mounting holes; I cut the same number of pieces of plexiglass measuring 10x10x8, in the center of each hole with an M3 thread. Using short M3 screws, we screw these pieces to the motherboard, naturally, screws on the parts side, plex on the smooth side. In the future, all that remains is to carefully coat these pieces of plex with glue made from sawdust of the same plex, soaked in dichloroethane and glue it in place.

From an old computer case I cut out a part of the back wall with a grid for installing expansion cards. We insert any two boards into the two outer connectors of the mother, attach the grille to them and ... now it’s the turn of dichloroethane. The previously screwed frame, plus the back wall screwed to it, as well as a strip of plex (600x290x4) pre-installed in this frame, taking into account the further installation of the power supply - we put this entire structure on its side. And then we take the motherboard on which the boards and grille are installed, with pieces of plex already screwed to it, lubricate them with dichloroethane glue and glue it all onto a 4-millimeter strip of plex, so that the grille fits close to the back wall.

Since the back wall is transparent, it will not be difficult to carefully mark the holes in it. To avoid scratching the plexiglass again, I used a thin felt-tip pen. Subsequently, its traces can be erased with alcohol. Then it’s a matter of technique: we drill, saw out, and straighten the edges with a scraper. All that remains is to do exactly the same manipulations with the power supply, and the back wall is ready. On my cases, however, there are some other little things: a fan, power connectors, speaker connectors, but all these details are of secondary importance. Their installation is not particularly difficult and I mentioned them only for the sake of maintaining objective reality.

Well, I hope I outlined the process of making the back wall clearly enough, but just in case, I’ll give a small illustration. And once again I must say that having made three cases, I became convinced that there are no uniform sizes. All metal inserts were from different cases and, accordingly, had different sizes, similarly, all three motherboards had slightly different output connector configurations.

Next you need to make something like a small shelf for installing hard drives and CD-ROMs. I made this thing based on installing three CD-ROMs, so if someone is not happy with this, then the dimensions will have to be changed.

So the dimensions for a tall block, two racks for mounting FDD and HDD - 323.5x130x8, in both narrow ends I drilled three holes for M3 threads. The bottom of the shelf for CD-ROMs is screwed to the top side - 170x146.5x8, the bottom end will be screwed to the 10 mm bottom cover of the case. The side walls of the CD-ROM box are made of thinner plexiglass - 5 mm, they are screwed to the ends of the 8 mm top and bottom covers. All that remains is to mark the holes for mounting CD-ROMs, as well as a 3-inch floppy drive and hard drives, but this is not difficult. But an unexpectedly difficult task for me was finding long enough screws with inch threads to secure the hard drives through 8 mm plex. I solved this problem when I disassembled some old printer.

One more thing. To make the structure rigid, I glued small plexiglass inserts to the sides of the CD-ROM box; they are screwed to the vertical posts with M3 screws. In general, my design ended up with more screws than glues. Probably some things could be simplified, but I tried to make it as convenient as possible, disassemble everything and gain access to any point of the case. I needed this, because in my cases, in addition to the computer itself, there are several other pleasant little things installed.

So, all that remains is to make the front wall. The principle is the same as with the back wall - we cut it to size, attach it to the front vertical posts and use a felt-tip pen to outline the cuts for CD-ROMs and floppy disks. There is also a hole for an indicator on the front panel. I fit a piece of plexi of a different color into this hole, exactly the size. This is not a very easy task, but little by little you can carefully adjust everything - it turns out very impressive, even better than on branded cases. You can glue this insert using a medical syringe with a thin needle, so as not to get excess dichloroethane on the front panel.

I used this technique several times and it almost always worked. The main thing is to take your time to adjust the insert, repeatedly trying it on in the right place. And one more thing: it is better not to saw the insert with a file, but to forcefully scrape its ends with just a piece of hacksaw blade ground off on sandpaper.

Installing power buttons, reset buttons, etc. is quite simple. I used different buttons in different cases, whichever ones I managed to get - I soldered them into the corresponding printed circuit board, which was subsequently screwed to a plexiglass holder. A small board is attached to it, into which LEDs are soldered - each strictly above a button. The holder is installed between the racks on which the hard drives are mounted, that is, it should not be wider than the width of the hard drive. I believe that anyone can design and glue such a fairly simple part themselves, in accordance with the buttons they have. And besides, the buttons can be installed not only horizontally, but also vertically. In general, no difficulties are foreseen on this side. With two side walls, everything is also quite simple - you just need to cut them to size and secure them with 4 M3 screws to the vertical posts. It would be ideal to find screws with decorative heads, but so far I haven’t come across any, although I took the time to go around the entire Mitinsky and Moskvoretsky markets.

At first I didn’t want to write an article, I thought it was too simple, then I saw it and changed my mind.

Perhaps those who have a Raspberry Pi, some kind of Mini-ITX or other mini computer have thought about a case for it. Some people order online, others use a shoebox, but I suggest making it yourself.
On the knee from what we have.
By the way, I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos, I only had my phone at hand. And only when the case was completely assembled did it become possible to take a photo with a normal digital camera.

Tools and material

For my Mini-ITX, I decided to assemble a case from an old computer case, bought second-hand for 100 rubles. We will also need pliers, a hacksaw, various rasps, chisels, a hammer, a drill, electrical tape, super glue, screws, some rubber stuff, a screwdriver, a cutter, a can of paint, rags, alcohol, straight (but bendable) in the right places) hands, pencil, ruler and cool music to feel like Tony Stark.

Possible options

Instead of a computer case, you can use a VCR case (it is usually thinner, which means it’s easier to process), a receiver case, a set-top box, some kind of toy, or just sheets of iron/plastic. Although I wouldn’t recommend plastic - it’s too… warming. Although you can always make holes for ventilation.

Manufacturing

First, let's decide on the form factor. I decided to make it based on the principle of a box with a lid. It's simple, fast and doesn't require any special skills.
Since the computer case is shaped like the letter “P,” it is necessary to cut it into separate sheets to make it easier to work with them in the future. Actually, you don’t have to saw it, but hollow it out, break it off, bend it until it breaks, and finally grind it down to holes using a grinding wheel with a motor (well, I don’t know what this thing is called, I actually have a grinding wheel with a 220V motor ).

Let's start making a box. We just attach our device and trace it with a pencil. It's that simple. Accuracy be damned, the tools still don’t allow you to be more precise. Of course, it’s not good to do this, so you can apply the markings in any way convenient for you. By the way, here's my hardware:

The markings must be applied so that after placing the piece of iron inside, there is at least 5mm of space left up to the lid and on the sides. You don’t have to worry about the holes for the periphery for now - if you make them before bending, then when bending the wall may not bend evenly. Therefore, it is better to make holes when the box is almost ready.
After marking, you can begin sawing. Back in school I was taught that “the markings are not cut off, they always remain on the part.” The excess can then be trimmed with a file (although I did file it down).


almost sawn part

So we cut out this square. Now it's time to saw off his ears. It’s easier to show than to tell:

Further - more interesting. If we now begin to bend the edges, they will bend like a wave (not at a right angle, but in an arc). To solve this problem, I first tapped the line with a chisel at the bend. You could probably use something like a large vice, but I didn’t have that (there were small vices - but they were small... something like that).

We bend the part and get a box. To prevent the “ears” from coming apart, I glued them with super glue. Believe me, it holds. Holds up well. When I screwed up and glued it crookedly, I tore it off only with a hammer, chisel and pliers. In the future, super glue was my faithful assistant.

Now we need holes for the periphery. Using a ruler and pencil, mark the location for the holes on the front wall. Here you need to tell how the board will be attached to the bottom of the box. To prevent it from lying flat, I cut out the legs for the motherboard from the same old computer case...

... and glued them to the bottom of the box with super glue! Then I unscrewed the scarf, took measurements for the periphery and began cutting out the holes. First, we drill holes in the corners, then use a hacksaw blade to make cuts (cuts?) between the holes. Here the rags with which I wrapped the canvas came in handy.

In general, you can finish with the bottom of the box. We grind down all the irregularities with a not rough (gentle? :)) file. By the way, remember what I said about rubber stuff? I don’t know what it is, it looks like some kind of plugs. I found them in a bag with screws from my computer case. By the way, there I found a beautiful mesh grid, which I later soldered to the cover above the board’s radiators. So these elastic bands can be used as legs. First, cut out circles from electrical tape to fit the rubber bands and glue them to the bottom of the box. After painting, you can tear them off and glue rubber bands in their place (yes, with the same super glue).

Next we proceed to making the lid. It is made in exactly the same way as the bottom of the box. I only bent the walls with pliers, it didn’t turn out very neatly, but I didn’t have to worry about using a chisel. The hole for the grille is cut in the same way as for the periphery. When everything is ready, all the parts need to be wiped with alcohol or, more simply put, degreased. Regarding the drawing on the lid. I just found a picture of a dragon on Google, printed it out and cut it out. Next, I pasted several strips of electrical tape onto the lid:

Then he attached the dragon and carefully traced all its contours with a cutter. After that, I removed the remaining paper and tape, and it turned out something like this:

Yes, by the way, the grille! I just soldered it (just don’t laugh):

When everything is ready, it's time to start painting. I had a can of black spray paint to apply to plastic. A couple of sprays and wait for the parts to dry.

After that, glue the legs, screw the board and close the lid. Ready! A few more final photos:

...actually it all started many years ago, around 78, when I was four years old... When visiting relatives, they took out a large iron box with tools, light bulbs, switches and similar “trash”, after which throughout the entire “visit” I was neither seen nor heard. By the way, the owner of that box, my uncle, is very straight arms...

Currently, I work as a carpentry foreman. I have been craving for everything that contains microcircuits for a long period of time, but from the moment I purchased my first computer, the thoughts of “doing something with it” systematically appeared in my head. Then I found out what it was modding... And from that moment there is not a day without thinking about it... By the way, this is my first job...

That's probably enough introduction, let's get straight to the point. Every mod I make starts with a lot of thinking about what I want to do. As a rule, I don’t make drawings (but in vain :)), many thoughts come while doing the work. Unfortunately, at the time the mod started, I didn’t think that I would show my work somewhere (on the Internet), so there aren’t very many photos... Well, let’s begin...

Of course, it all started with a search for the system unit case; a damaged case of unknown origin was purchased, which served as the basis of the system unit. The idea was to make a wooden case and, moreover, it would not be embarrassing to show to friends, but since this is my first work, I decided to focus on the classic layout. The hardware was bought all new, here is a list of what was used

CPU Core 2 Duo E8400, 3000 MHz (9 x 333)

Motherboard Asus Maximus Formula

Memory OCZ XTC SLI OCZ2N800SR2G * 2 pcs

Video ATI Radeon HD 3870 (RV670)

Sound adapter Analog Devices AD1988B @ Intel 82801IB ICH9

Sound adapter C-Media CMI8738/C3DX Audio Device

Disk drive ST3500320AS ATA Device (500 GB, 7200 RPM, SATA-II) * 2 pcs

Optical drive TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S202H ATA Device

power unit CHIEFTEC CFT-500-A12S

CPU cooler Noctua NH1-U12P

Fans Thermal Take Cyclo Blue Pattern A2450 * 2pcs

I don't count the numerous LEDs, neon lights, wires, etc. The tools used were those that are available in any carpentry workshop... Unfortunately, I don’t have a Dremel... For now...

Actually, I started by re-gluing the front panel, base and cover of the system unit. The most important thing in carpentry is not to forget the golden rule. measure seven times, then measure again and only then cut, so we’ll cut off all the excess later.

Here is a photo of the future front panel:

I'll make a little clarification. For top cover and the front panel I re-glued the oak panels and drove them to a thickness of about 17-22mm, then glued the slats along the edges. I made markings on the front panel, placing them against the iron frame of the system unit, after which a hole was made for the 120th fan using a ballet dancer and a hand jigsaw. Next we make the side walls from plywood.

The following photos show how the side wall will open. Plus - when you remove the wall it opens good access to all internal components system unit, minus – In order to open it completely, you need to move the case away from the wall... Fortunately, you don’t have to open it often...

When the blanks are ready, the fitting of all the parts of the future body to each other begins. And also finishing all sorts of little things...

Subsequently, you should receive a practically assembled body, ready for further processing (grinding, painting)

After some time has passed (there was a lot of work) I begin adjusting the body frame. The thing is that the fans didn't fit in, so I had to cut it a little. Well, since I don’t have a Dremel, we use an angle grinder (don’t forget about Safety precautions)

And cutting off everything that bothered us

Let's start preparing the frame for painting. Due to limited funds, it was decided to limit ourselves to sanding and painting itself...

While the first layer of paint on the side wall is drying, cut out the window (jigsaw, hands) and place the pre-cut glass for gluing

Of course, the painting process takes a lot of time, the intermediate layers need to be sanded (500-600 sandpaper), painted again, etc. and so on. As a result, we get a frame ready for assembly.

But not all parts of the body are ready for assembly, so we are painting the “wooden component”

For unknown reasons, the painting process itself was not photographed, but I can say that everything was painted with DUFA paint. It was opened 4 times with sanding between layers (grit sandpaper 600-800), then it was opened with varnish 2 times... let's start assembling... Photo For some reason they also weren’t done, I can only note that the assembly took place over 2 months (the motherboard was missing, I was waiting for it to be delivered) While I was in “standby mode” I started working on the power supply.

I inserted blue LEDs, cut out a side window, connected a 7 volt fan... In general, standard procedures aimed at “improving appearance and operational properties" of this device. The fans in the case are also connected to 7 volts (front) and 5 volts (rear). The USB compartment cover is illuminated, and the computer's power button is also located here.

This made it possible not to place the power button directly on the front panel. The DVD-ROM tray is also illuminated and instead of the opening button there is a reed switch (located right behind the stickers that were later removed :))

And finally the final photos

I’m currently hatching plans in my head to build a case based on the Core i7. And, of course, I hope this is not my last article, I’ve also made a test power supply and a mouse (more like testing the veneer technology).

Did: Mikhail Kopylov

“The need for invention is cunning,” says the old proverb, and computer enthusiasts have never complained about a lack of creativity. Unusual computer cases are one of the manifestations of developed imagination and resourcefulness. These people are not stopped by the fact that after purchasing suitable hardware there was no available funds for a housing for it. “Kulibins” prove that a lack of funds is not an obstacle when assembling a computer. This material about cool PC cases is dedicated to the creations of such creative people.

I bought a case, but didn’t have enough for hardware

There are also situations when you have a high-quality case at hand, but there is nothing to put in it. What to do in such a situation? You can find a set of iron “from the time of dinosaurs” at a flea market, but not everyone will like this approach. Such components make noise, collect dust, consume electricity, and can even break at the wrong time.

American enthusiasts have developed a Raspberry Pi mini-computer, priced at about $30, which is slightly larger in size than a credit card. The board of this little thing contains a filling comparable to that of an average smartphone, and when installing the Linux OS, such a PC can be used for watching movies, surfing the Internet and other simple tasks. In the example given, just such a computer is installed in a desktop PC case.

The supermarket will help us

Do you have access to old fruit containers at the supermarket or green market? Then you can make a cool PC case for just a hundred rubles. A potato box, some cable ties, and the case is ready.

This PC can be called an example of minimalism and ingenuity rolled into one, but there are stranger computer cases.

All my life I dreamed of a laptop

I want to powerful laptop, but you don’t have enough money, and taking out a loan is not an option? Then a toolbox and a matrix from an LCD monitor come to the rescue. A little ingenuity, and with a flick of the wrist the whole thing turns into a laptop.

Of course, in terms of weight, such a machine will be 2 times heavier than a laptop, and you also need to carry the keyboard and mouse with you. But, of course, this example deserves a place in the selection of the most unusual computer cases.

Making an iMac with your own hands

Apple computers are not a cheap pleasure, but Lenovo all-in-one PCs Although they cost less, they are also more expensive than a desktop. But what if you want an all-in-one PC? You can tighten your belt and save up for an iMac, or you can just take the stuffing from a laptop with a broken screen and desktop monitor. A little double-sided tape, a couple of screws - and we meet the new iMac model.

For a complete ambience, all that is missing is a bitten apple, as well as a silver color. But this is not a problem either: a trip to the building materials store (for a can of silver) and the grocery store (for a kilogram of apples) can solve the problem. At the same time, vitamins into the body after a long winter.

Another example of how to make a candy bar with your own hands.

Second life of a cardboard box

In the era of the development of online stores, a huge amount of packaging containers in which purchases are delivered gradually accumulates in everyone’s home. Sometimes it’s a shame to throw away good boxes, and the space in the pantry quickly runs out. You can breathe a second life into the box by using it as a PC case. This is especially rational if the brand new hardware in it came from the store.

This approach is very popular among the people; the Internet is replete with pictures showing such unusual computer cases.

If you don’t have time to do handicrafts or if you forgot all the skills learned in labor lessons in elementary school immediately after graduating from school, you don’t even have to bother with scissors and tape.

And that will do. And even like this:

Subtle and tasteful

Sometimes unusual computer cases can pleasantly surprise you. Sometimes this is the fruit of careful work, and in terms of price they are comparable to factory models.

The production of such a case, made in the spirit of minimalism, probably cost several hundred rubles per plexiglass. And considering that all the parts were neatly fitted, the owner also spent more than one hour working on it.

And this is actually a masterpiece, and making such a cool PC case definitely cost the craftsman a pretty penny.

Poor fish

Effective heat dissipation and a stylish look in one also deserve a place in the selection of unusual computer cases. We can only hope that the owner purchased the aquarium specifically for the PC, and the fish did not have to set off on a free voyage.

By the way, if someone wants to repeat this step, they need to take into account that water cannot be poured as a liquid. For these purposes, synthetic or mineral oil, for example, transformer oil, is optimal. In any case, the liquid must be electrically inert.

Computer in a canister

Another example of using outdated containers, this time plastic. Such a machine would fit seamlessly into some fuel warehouse or car service center. There, such a strange computer case would not stand out against the background of the general situation.

Cooling is never too much

This was probably the slogan that guided the owner of this strange computer case made entirely of fans. But such a large number of turntables consume quite a lot; they probably require another power supply. And one can only imagine the noise that rises in the room when such a monster is turned on.

Once and for all

This is exactly what you can call such an unusual computer case. Polyurethane foam is very difficult to remove from surfaces, and if any part fails, you will have to sweat to get to it.

By the way, this is another example of recycling vegetable boxes.

For those who are tired of constant laptop overheating

It seems that the owner of this laptop is tired of constantly cleaning his computer from dust, regularly changing thermal paste and dealing with overheating. Otherwise, why else would you install powerful system water cooling for laptop.

True, it is difficult to call such a design a laptop, because we are not talking about any mobility. That is why this masterpiece of “engineering” was included in the selection of the strangest computer cases.