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A simple DIY LED lamp. How to make LED lamps with your own hands? Advantages of self-production

We can say with great confidence that LED lighting is a very promising direction in the development of electrical products. LED lamps have many advantages over their older counterparts (incandescent lamps).

They are superior to more conventional artificial lighting sources in many ways, from high efficiency and long service life to high durability and safety in use. Today, everyone is talking about LED lighting, but many still have no idea what it is about and what the principle of operation of these devices is. Basically, the consumer is repelled by the price of this kind of product, because it is not very budgetary. In this article, we will look at how a do-it-yourself LED lamp is made. We will also analyze some of the nuances of operating this type of artificial lighting.

Introduction

In order to make LED lamps with your own hands, it is not enough to have only one desire. For those who have no idea about electrical engineering, it will be useful to learn the basic concepts in this direction. One way or another, you need to be patient and take the time to make LED lamps with your own hands (220V). It should be noted that the products familiar to us ( ordinary light bulbs) will be a thing of the past in a few years, so the result will please you and allow you to save on bills from electricity suppliers.

What do you need to make your own LED lamps?

First of all, you need to find a case from the "halogen". A used or simply burned out light bulb will do. Well, if there are none, you can buy a new one. Either way, your investment will pay off.
Naturally, a do-it-yourself LED lamp involves the purchase of diodes. The number of them depends on your desire and needs. It is worth saying that the more LEDs are used to create a light source, the more difficult the manufacturing process will be.
You need a calculator. It will allow you to correctly calculate the number of LEDs for the lamp. You should also create an electrical circuit, according to which LED lamps will be assembled with your own hands in the future.
For work, you will also need glue. You can buy both super glue and polymer. The only thing worth paying attention to is the ability of the adhesive to quickly and firmly grasp the two surfaces to be glued.
Sheet aluminum (a little). The thickness of the metal should be approximately 0.2 millimeters, therefore, a regular can of beer or soda will do.
Resistors (resistance). Here you need to find out what type and denomination of products you need to purchase. All this is calculated on the basis of the drawn up scheme.

Assembly. Step by step

First of all, we must get rid of the filling of the halogen lamp. To do this, use a screwdriver or a knife to remove the white putty near the contacts. It crumbles well, and it does not require much work to remove it. The main thing is not to overdo it - the halogen lamp is a very fragile product, and it can deteriorate from too much pressure.
After these manipulations, it is necessary to put our light bulb on a flat surface with the contacts up. Then with a hammer it is necessary to hit the latter. The blow must be applied without much enthusiasm and carefully. After that, the light bulb will fall out of the reflector.
The next step is to make an aluminum disc for mounting the LEDs. First you need to make do-it-yourself paper templates for LED lamps. This is done using a computer program.
The printed element must be glued to the aluminum substrate and holes cut out using a stationery hole punch. Basically, templates are calculated for LEDs with a diameter of 5 millimeters.

That's it, the diagram describing our future products is ready.

What's next?

To do this, an aluminum disk is placed on a stand, since the LEDs should protrude beyond it. The elements are inserted into the holes in such a way that the cathode leg and the anode leg of neighboring LEDs are located side by side. This recommendation will make the soldering process easier. What is normal voltage power supply for a light source like a DIY LED lamp? 12V - it is for this voltage that such electrical products are mainly designed.
What to do next? After all the LEDs are in place, you can start gluing. You can fill them with glue right up to the legs, this will allow the structure to be stronger. Before proceeding to the next step, you must wait until everything is completely dry.
The next step is to solder the LEDs. As noted above, the anode of one should be next to the cathode of the other, the main thing is not to confuse them. At in large numbers LEDs recommend soldering four series-connected elements. If we take such a 4-diode circuit separately, then for convenience it is better to leave a longer anode for the first LED, and a cathode for the last one, since these legs will then be connected to the power supply. In order not to confuse plus and minus later, it is best to leave the plus legs longer, and make the minus legs shorter.
After soldering the LEDs, you need to connect the resistors. Let's say we are assembling a lamp of 22 LEDs. Based on this, after soldering, we should get 6 long anodes and, accordingly, 6 shorter cathodes. Resistors should be soldered to the cathodes, but before that you need to deal with the positive legs. All six cathodes must be connected together. This must be done carefully to prevent the positive terminals from shorting to negative. After all the manipulations, we should get a positive output from the LEDs and a negative output from the resistors. You need to solder small pieces to them. copper wire, you get a kind of imitation of the base. At the end of this stage, it is recommended to fill the places between the cathodes and anodes with adhesive in order to prevent a short circuit, which will most likely result in do-it-yourself repair of LED lamps.

final assembly

The next step will be direct assembly. To do this, the assembled filling is attached to the reflector with glue. The adhesive connection must be reliable, since these two elements will only be held on by glue. After everything dries, you should mark each of the conclusions, as well as indicate the nominal voltage of our lamp. Pieces of copper wire must be cut according to the length of the electrodes of the halogen lamp.

Health check

Everything, the LED lamp is ready, for testing you can connect it to the battery and check the operation of all components or make a connection through the LED lamp driver. Hand-assembled products, by the way, will emit light in different ways.

It all depends on the diodes used. For lamps, the assembly of which we examined above, products with diffused light are best suited. The part, as noted above, must be connected to the network through a special driver. Without it, you will not receive a workable product.

Advantages of LED

Do-it-yourself LED lamps have a lot of advantages, namely:

Economical use of electricity.
Long service life (with proper operation can reach 72 thousand hours). On average, LEDs last for 10-15 years.
The ability to use different spectral characteristics.
Ability to receive directional radiation.
No inertia when switching.
It is possible to control the brightness.
High security. Unlike incandescent lamps, the diode does not heat up to colossal temperatures, which eliminates the possibility of getting burned.
Small dimensions in comparison with other analogues.
Great strength. Diode tape not so easy to break, not like an incandescent lamp.
Environmental friendliness.
Low temperature.

Should I believe what is written on the package?

When buying LED lamps in a store, we pay attention to their characteristics indicated on the packaging. Manufacturers are often cunning when talking about the power of light that a lamp emits.

This happens because manufacturers add up the light fluxes from all the LEDs, but do not take into account the loss of light from the reflector or lens.

Conclusion

Knowing all the nuances of manufacturing such products, you can not be afraid of fraud. By independently performing the assembly process, you can eliminate the repair of LED lamps. A hand-made lamp will allow you to be sure of the quality of the product. Its service life is measured in years, if not decades.

So, we found out how to make an LED lamp with your own hands. 220 V is not the only network from which it can work. The diode also shines at 12-volt voltage, and also runs on conventional batteries.

Due to low power consumption, theoretical durability and lower prices, incandescent and energy-saving lamps are rapidly replacing. But, despite the declared service life of up to 25 years, they often burn out without even having served the warranty period.

Unlike incandescent lamps, 90% of burned-out LED lamps can be successfully repaired with your own hands, even without special training. The presented examples will help you to repair failed LED lamps.

Before undertaking the repair of an LED lamp, you need to present its device. Regardless of the appearance and type of LEDs used, all LED lamps, including filament bulbs, are arranged in the same way. If you remove the walls of the lamp housing, then inside you can see the driver, which is a printed circuit board with radio elements installed on it.

Any LED lamp is arranged and works as follows. The supply voltage from the contacts of the electric cartridge is supplied to the terminals of the base. Two wires are soldered to it, through which voltage is applied to the input of the driver. With driver supply voltage direct current is fed to the board on which the LEDs are soldered.

The driver is an electronic unit - a current generator that converts the mains voltage into the current required to light the LEDs.

Sometimes, to scatter light or protect against human contact with unprotected conductors of a board with LEDs, it is covered with a diffusing protective glass.

About filament lamps

By appearance A filament lamp is similar to an incandescent lamp. The device of filament lamps differs from LED lamps in that they do not use a board with LEDs as light emitters, but a glass sealed bulb filled with gas, in which one or more filament rods are placed. The driver is located in the base.

The filament rod is a glass or sapphire tube with a diameter of about 2 mm and a length of about 30 mm, on which 28 miniature LEDs coated in series with a phosphor are fixed and connected. One filament consumes about 1 W of power. My operating experience shows that filament lamps are much more reliable than those made on the basis of SMD LEDs. I think over time they will replace all other artificial light sources.

Examples of repair of LED lamps

Attention, the electrical circuits of the LED lamp drivers are galvanically connected to the phase of the electrical network and therefore care must be taken. Touching bare areas of a circuit connected to electrical network may result in electric shock.

LED Lamp Repair
ASD LED-A60, 11 W on SM2082 chip

Currently, powerful LED bulbs have appeared, the drivers of which are assembled on microcircuits of the SM2082 type. One of them worked less than a year and got me to repair. The light bulb flickered randomly and came on again. When tapped on it, it responded with light or extinction. It became obvious that the problem was a bad connection.

To get to the electronic part of the lamp, you need to use a knife to pick up the diffusing glass at the point of contact with the body. Sometimes it is difficult to separate the glass, since silicone is applied to the retaining ring when it is seated.

After removing the light-scattering glass, access to the LEDs and the microcircuit - the current generator SM2082 was opened. In this lamp, one part of the driver was mounted on an aluminum printed circuit board of LEDs, and the second on a separate one.

External inspection did not reveal defective rations or broken tracks. I had to remove the board with LEDs. To do this, the silicone was first cut off and the board was pushed over the edge with a screwdriver blade.

To get to the driver located in the lamp housing, I had to unsolder it, heating two contacts at the same time with a soldering iron and moving it to the right.

On one side of the driver PCB, only an electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 6.8 microfarads for a voltage of 400 V was installed.

On the back of the driver board was installed diode bridge and two 510 kΩ resistors connected in series.

In order to figure out which of the boards was losing contact, they had to be connected, observing the polarity, using two wires. After tapping the boards with a screwdriver handle, it became obvious that the fault lies in the board with the capacitor or in the contacts of the wires coming from the LED lamp base.

Since soldering did not arouse suspicion, I first checked the reliability of the contact in the central terminal of the base. It is easily removed by prying it over the edge with a knife blade. But the contact was reliable. Just in case, I tinned the wire with solder.

It is difficult to remove the screw part of the base, so I decided to solder the solder wires suitable from the base with a soldering iron. When touching one of the rations, the wire was exposed. Found "cold" soldering. Since it was not possible to get to strip the wire, I had to lubricate it with the FIM active flux, and then solder it again.

After assembly, the LED lamp emitted light steadily despite being hit with a screwdriver handle. Checking the luminous flux for pulsations showed that they are significant at a frequency of 100 Hz. Such a LED lamp can only be installed in luminaires for general lighting.

Driver circuit diagram
LED lamp ASD LED-A60 on the chip SM2082

The electrical circuit of the ASD LED-A60 lamp, thanks to the use of a specialized SM2082 microcircuit in the driver to stabilize the current, turned out to be quite simple.

The driver circuit works as follows. The AC supply voltage is fed through fuse F to the rectifier diode bridge assembled on the MB6S microassembly. The electrolytic capacitor C1 smooths out the ripple, and R1 serves to discharge it when the power is turned off.

From the positive terminal of the capacitor, the supply voltage is applied directly to the LEDs connected in series. From the output of the last LED, the voltage is applied to the input (pin 1) of the SM2082 microcircuit, the current in the microcircuit stabilizes and then from its output (pin 2) it goes to the negative terminal of the capacitor C1.

Resistor R2 sets the amount of current flowing through the LEDs HL. The amount of current is inversely proportional to its nominal value. If the value of the resistor is reduced, then the current will increase, if the value is increased, then the current will decrease. The SM2082 chip allows you to adjust the current value from 5 to 60 mA with a resistor.

LED Lamp Repair
ASD LED-A60, 11W, 220V, E27

Another LED lamp ASD LED-A60, similar in appearance and with the same technical specifications, as above repaired.

When turned on, the lamp lit up for a moment and then did not shine. This behavior of LED lamps is usually associated with a driver malfunction. Therefore, I immediately began to disassemble the lamp.

The diffusing glass was removed with great difficulty, since it was heavily lubricated with silicone along the entire line of contact with the case, despite the presence of a retainer. To separate the glass, I had to look for a pliable place along the entire line of contact with the body with a knife, but still there was a crack in the body.

To gain access to the lamp driver, the next step was to remove the LED printed circuit board, which was pressed into the aluminum insert along the contour. Despite the fact that the board was aluminum, and it was possible to remove it without fear of cracking, all attempts were unsuccessful. The pay was held tight.

It also failed to remove the board together with the aluminum insert, since it fit snugly against the case and was planted on silicone by the outer surface.

I decided to try to remove the driver board from the side of the base. To do this, first, a knife was pulled out of the base, and the central contact was removed. To remove the threaded part of the base, it was necessary to slightly bend its upper shoulder so that the punching points disengaged from the base.

The driver became accessible and freely extended to a certain position, but it was not possible to completely remove it, although the conductors from the LED board were soldered.

There was a hole in the center of the board with the LEDs. I decided to try to remove the driver board by hitting its end through a metal rod threaded through this hole. The board advanced a few centimeters and rested against something. After further blows, the lamp body cracked along the ring and the board with the base of the base separated.

As it turned out, the board had an extension, which rested against the lamp body with its hangers. It looks like the board was shaped in such a way to restrict movement, although it was enough to fix it with a drop of silicone. Then the driver would be removed from either side of the lamp.

The voltage of 220 V from the lamp base through the resistor - fuse FU is fed to the MB6F rectifier bridge and after it is smoothed by an electrolytic capacitor. Next, the voltage is supplied to the SIC9553 chip, which stabilizes the current. Resistors R20 and R80 connected in parallel between terminals 1 and 8 MS set the amount of current to supply the LEDs.

The photo shows a typical electrical circuit diagram given by the manufacturer of the SIC9553 chip in the Chinese datasheet.

This photo shows the appearance of the LED lamp driver from the installation side of the output elements. Since space allowed, to reduce the ripple coefficient of the light flux, the capacitor at the output of the driver was soldered to 6.8 microfarads instead of 4.7 microfarads.

If you have to remove the drivers from the body of this lamp model and you cannot remove the LED board, then you can use a jigsaw to cut the lamp body in a circle just above the screw part of the base.

In the end, all my efforts to extract the driver turned out to be useful only for knowing the device of the LED lamp. The driver was correct.

The flash of the LEDs at the moment of switching on was caused by a breakdown in the crystal of one of them as a result of a voltage surge when the driver was started, which misled me. We had to ring the LEDs first.

An attempt to test the LEDs with a multimeter did not lead to success. The LEDs didn't light up. It turned out that two series-connected light-emitting crystals are installed in one case, and in order for the LED to start flowing current, it is necessary to apply a voltage of 8 V to it.

A multimeter or tester, switched on in the resistance measurement mode, outputs a voltage in the range of 3-4 V. I had to check the LEDs using a power supply, supplying 12 V to each LED through a 1 kΩ current-limiting resistor.

There was no replacement LED available, so the pads were shorted with a drop of solder instead. It is safe for the driver to work, and the power of the LED lamp will decrease by only 0.7 W, which is almost imperceptible.

After the repair of the electrical part of the LED lamp, the cracked body was glued with Moment quick-drying superglue, the seams were smoothed by melting the plastic with a soldering iron and smoothed out with sandpaper.

For interest, I performed some measurements and calculations. The current flowing through the LEDs was 58 mA, the voltage was 8 V. Therefore, the power supplied to one LED is 0.46 W. With 16 LEDs, it turns out 7.36 watts, instead of the declared 11 watts. Perhaps the manufacturer indicates the total power consumption of the lamp, taking into account losses in the driver.

The service life of the LED lamp ASD LED-A60, 11 W, 220 V, E27, declared by the manufacturer, is very doubtful to me. In a small volume of a plastic lamp housing with low thermal conductivity, significant power is released - 11 watts. As a result, the LEDs and the driver operate at the maximum allowable temperature, which leads to accelerated degradation of their crystals and, as a result, to a sharp decrease in their MTBF.

LED Lamp Repair
LED smd B35 827 ERA, 7 W on BP2831A chip

A friend shared with me that he bought five light bulbs as in the photo below, and all of them stopped working after a month. He managed to throw away three of them, and, at my request, he brought two for repair.

The light bulb worked, but instead of a bright light, it emitted a flickering weak light at a frequency of several times per second. I immediately assumed that the electrolytic capacitor was swollen, usually if it fails, the lamp begins to emit light, like a stroboscope.

The light-diffusing glass was removed easily, it was not glued. It was fixed by a slot on its rim and a protrusion in the lamp body.

The driver was fixed with two solders to the printed circuit board with LEDs, as in one of the lamps described above.

A typical driver circuit on a BP2831A chip taken from the datasheet is shown in the photo. The driver board was removed and all simple radio elements were checked, everything turned out to be in good order. I had to check the LEDs.

The LEDs in the lamp were installed of an unknown type with two crystals in the case and the inspection did not reveal any defects. Using the method of serially connecting the leads of each of the LEDs to each other, he quickly identified the faulty one and replaced it with a drop of solder, as in the photo.

The lamp worked for a week and again got into repair. Shorted the next LED. A week later, I had to short-circuit another LED, and after the fourth I threw out the bulb, because I was tired of repairing it.

The reason for the failure of light bulbs of this design is obvious. LEDs overheat due to insufficient heat sink surface, and their life is reduced to hundreds of hours.

Why is it permissible to close the terminals of burned-out LEDs in LED lamps

Driver for LED lamps, as opposed to a power supply constant voltage, the output produces a stabilized current value, not voltage. Therefore, regardless of the load resistance within the given limits, the current will always be constant and, therefore, the voltage drop across each of the LEDs will remain the same.

Therefore, with a decrease in the number of series-connected LEDs in the circuit, the voltage at the output of the driver will also decrease proportionally.

For example, if 50 LEDs are connected in series to the driver, and a voltage of 3 V drops across each of them, then the voltage at the output of the driver was 150 V, and if 5 of them were shorted, the voltage would drop to 135 V, and the current would not change.

But the coefficient useful action(Efficiency) of a driver assembled according to such a scheme will be low and power losses will be more than 50%. For example, for an MR-16-2835-F27 LED bulb, you will need a 6.1 kΩ resistor with a power of 4 watts. It turns out that the driver on the resistor will consume power that exceeds the power consumption of the LEDs and place it in a small package LED lamps, due to selection more heat will be unacceptable.

But if there is no other way to repair the LED lamp and it is very necessary, then the resistor driver can be placed in a separate case, all the same, the power consumption of such an LED lamp will be four times less than incandescent lamps. At the same time, it should be noted that the more LEDs connected in series in the light bulb, the higher the efficiency will be. With 80 serially connected SMD3528 LEDs, you will need an 800 ohm resistor with a power of only 0.5 watts. Capacitor C1 will need to be increased to 4.7 µF.

Finding faulty LEDs

After removing the protective glass, it becomes possible to check the LEDs without peeling off the printed circuit board. First of all, a careful inspection of each LED is carried out. If even the smallest black dot is detected, not to mention the blackening of the entire surface of the LED, then it is definitely faulty.

When examining the appearance of the LEDs, you need to carefully examine the quality of the rations of their conclusions. In one of the light bulbs being repaired, four LEDs were poorly soldered at once.

The photo shows a light bulb that had very small black dots on four LEDs. I immediately marked the faulty LEDs with crosses so that they could be clearly seen.

Faulty LEDs may or may not change appearance. Therefore, it is necessary to check each LED with a multimeter or arrow tester included in the resistance measurement mode.

There are LED lamps in which standard LEDs are installed in appearance, in the case of which two crystals connected in series are mounted at once. For example, lamps of the ASD LED-A60 series. To make such LEDs ring, it is necessary to apply a voltage of more than 6 V to its outputs, and any multimeter gives out no more than 4 V. Therefore, such LEDs can only be tested by applying a voltage of more than 6 (9-12) V through a 1 kΩ resistor from the power source. .

The LED is checked, like a conventional diode, in one direction the resistance should be equal to tens of megaohms, and if you change the probes in places (this changes the polarity of the voltage supply to the LED), then it is small, while the LED may glow dimly.

When checking and replacing LEDs, the lamp must be fixed. To do this, you can use a suitable size round jar.

You can check the health of the LED without an additional DC source. But such a verification method is possible if the light bulb driver is working. To do this, it is necessary to apply a supply voltage to the LED lamp base and short the leads of each LED in series with each other with a wire jumper or, for example, metal tweezers sponges.

If suddenly all the LEDs light up, then the shorted one is definitely faulty. This method is useful if only one LED out of all in the circuit is faulty. With this method of verification, it must be taken into account that if the driver does not provide galvanic isolation from the mains, as, for example, in the diagrams above, then touching the LED solderings with your hand is unsafe.

If one or even several LEDs turned out to be faulty and there is nothing to replace them with, then you can simply short-circuit the pads to which the LEDs were soldered. The light bulb will work with the same success, only the luminous flux will decrease slightly.

Other malfunctions of LED lamps

If the check of the LEDs showed their serviceability, then it means that the reason for the inoperability of the light bulb lies in the driver or in the places where the current-carrying conductors are soldered.

For example, in this light bulb, a cold soldered conductor was found that supplies voltage to the printed circuit board. The soot released due to poor soldering even settled on the conductive tracks of the printed circuit board. The soot was easily removed by wiping with a rag soaked in alcohol. The wire was soldered, stripped, tinned and re-soldered into the board. Good luck with this lamp.

Of the ten failed light bulbs, only one had a faulty driver, the diode bridge fell apart. The repair of the driver consisted in replacing the diode bridge with four IN4007 diodes, designed for reverse voltage 1000 V and current 1 A.

Soldering SMD LEDs

To replace a faulty LED, it must be desoldered without damaging the printed conductors. From the donor board, you also need to solder the replacement LED without damage.

It is almost impossible to solder SMD LEDs with a simple soldering iron without damaging their case. But if you use a special tip for a soldering iron or put on a standard tip a nozzle made of copper wire, then the problem is easily solved.

The LEDs have polarity and when replacing, you need to correctly install it on the printed circuit board. Typically, printed conductors follow the shape of the leads on the LED. Therefore, you can make a mistake only if you are inattentive. To solder the LED, it is enough to install it on a printed circuit board and heat its ends with contact pads with a soldering iron with a power of 10-15 W.

If the LED burned out on coal, and the printed circuit board under it was charred, then before installing a new LED, it is imperative to clean this place of the printed circuit board from burning, since it is a current conductor. When cleaning, you may find that the pads for soldering the LED are burned or peeled off.

In such a case, the LED can be installed by soldering it to adjacent LEDs if the printed tracks lead to them. To do this, you can take a piece of thin wire, bend it in half or three, depending on the distance between the LEDs, tin and solder to them.

Repair LED lamp series "LL-CORN" (corn lamp)
E27 4.6W 36x5050SMD

The device of the lamp, which is popularly called the corn lamp, shown in the photo below, differs from the lamp described above, therefore the repair technology is different.

The design of LED SMD lamps of this type is very convenient for repair, as there is access for LED continuity and replacement without disassembling the lamp housing. True, I still dismantled the light bulb for interest in order to study its device.

Examination LEDs corn lamps do not differ from the technology described above, but it should be noted that three LEDs are placed in the SMD5050 LED housing at once, usually connected in parallel (three dark dots of crystals are visible on the yellow circle), and when checking, all three should glow.

A defective LED can be replaced with a new one or shorted with a jumper. This will not affect the reliability of the lamp, only imperceptibly to the eye, the luminous flux will decrease slightly.

The driver of this lamp is assembled according to the simplest scheme, without an isolation transformer, so touching the LED terminals when the lamp is on is unacceptable. Lamps of this design are unacceptable to be installed in fixtures that can be reached by children.

If all the LEDs are working, then the driver is faulty, and in order to get to it, the lamp will have to be disassembled.

To do this, remove the bezel from the side opposite the base. With a small screwdriver or a knife blade, you need to try in a circle to find a weak spot where the bezel is glued the worst. If the rim succumbed, then working with the tool as a lever, the rim will easily move away around the entire perimeter.

The driver was built wiring diagram, like the MR-16 lamp, only C1 had a capacity of 1 µF, and C2 - 4.7 µF. Due to the fact that the wires from the driver to the lamp base were long, the driver was easily pulled out of the lamp housing. After studying his circuit, the driver was inserted back into the case, and the bezel was glued into place with transparent Moment glue. The failed LED was replaced with a good one.

Repair of LED lamp "LL-CORN" (corn lamp)
E27 12W 80x5050SMD

When repairing a more powerful lamp, 12 W, there were no failed LEDs of the same design, and in order to get to the drivers, I had to open the lamp using the technology described above.

This lamp gave me a surprise. The wires from the driver to the base were short, and it was impossible to remove the driver from the lamp housing for repair. I had to remove the plinth.

The base of the lamp was made of aluminium, rounded and held tight. I had to drill out the attachment points with a 1.5 mm drill. After that, the plinth, which was hooked with a knife, was easily removed.

But you can do without drilling the base, if you pry the edge of the knife around the circumference and slightly bend its upper edge. A mark should first be placed on the plinth and body so that the plinth can be easily installed in place. To securely fix the base after repairing the lamp, it will be enough to put it on the lamp body in such a way that the punched points on the base fall into their old places. Next, push these points with a sharp object.

Two wires were connected to the thread with a clamp, and the other two were pressed into the central contact of the base. I had to cut these wires.

As expected, there were two identical drivers, feeding 43 diodes each. They were covered with heat shrink tubing and taped together. In order for the driver to be placed back into the tube, I usually carefully cut it along the printed circuit board from the side where the parts are installed.

After repair, the driver is wrapped in a tube, which is fixed with a plastic tie or wrapped with several turns of thread.

In the electrical circuit of the driver of this lamp, protection elements are already installed, C1 for protection against impulse surges and R2, R3 for protection against current surges. When checking the elements, resistors R2 were immediately found on both drivers in the open. It appears that the LED lamp was supplied with a voltage exceeding the allowable voltage. After replacing the resistors, there was no 10 Ohm at hand, and I set it to 5.1 Ohm, the lamp worked.

Repair LED lamp series "LLB" LR-EW5N-5

The appearance of this type of light bulb inspires confidence. Aluminum case, high-quality workmanship, beautiful design.

The design of the light bulb is such that it is impossible to disassemble it without the use of significant physical effort. Since the repair of any LED lamp begins with checking the health of the LEDs, the first thing to do was to remove the plastic protective glass.

The glass was fixed without glue on a groove made in the radiator with a shoulder inside it. To remove the glass, you need to use the end of a screwdriver, which will pass between the radiator fins, to lean on the end of the radiator and, as a lever, lift the glass up.

Checking the LEDs with a tester showed their serviceability, therefore, the driver is faulty, and you need to get to it. The aluminum board was fastened with four screws, which I unscrewed.

But contrary to expectations, behind the board was the plane of the radiator, lubricated with heat-conducting paste. The board had to be returned to its place and continue to disassemble the lamp from the side of the base.

Due to the fact that the plastic part to which the radiator was attached was very tight, I decided to go the proven way, remove the base and remove the driver for repair through the hole that opened. I drilled out the punching points, but the base was not removed. It turned out that he was still holding on to the plastic due to the threaded connection.

I had to separate the plastic adapter from the radiator. He held, as well as protective glass. To do this, washed down with a hacksaw at the junction of the plastic with the radiator and by turning a screwdriver with a wide blade, the parts were separated from each other.

After soldering the leads from the printed circuit board of the LEDs, the driver became available for repair. The driver circuit turned out to be more complex than previous light bulbs, with an isolation transformer and a microcircuit. One of the 400 V 4.7 µF electrolytic capacitors was swollen. I had to replace it.

A check of all semiconductor elements revealed a faulty Schottky diode D4 (pictured below left). There was a SS110 Schottky diode on the board, I replaced it with the existing analog 10 BQ100 (100 V, 1 A). The forward resistance of Schottky diodes is two times less than that of ordinary diodes. The LED lamp lit up. The same problem was with the second bulb.

Repair LED lamp series "LLB" LR-EW5N-3

This LED lamp is very similar in appearance to the "LLB" LR-EW5N-5, but its design is somewhat different.

If you look closely, you can see that at the junction between the aluminum radiator and the spherical glass, unlike LR-EW5N-5, there is a ring in which the glass is fixed. To remove the protective glass, just use a small screwdriver to pick it up at the junction with the ring.

There are three nine super-bright crystal LEDs mounted on an aluminum circuit board. The board is screwed to the heatsink with three screws. Checking the LEDs showed their serviceability. Therefore, you need to repair the driver. Having experience in repairing a similar LED lamp "LLB" LR-EW5N-5, I did not unscrew the screws, but soldered the current-carrying wires coming from the driver and continued to disassemble the lamp from the side of the base.

The plastic connecting ring of the plinth with the radiator was removed with great difficulty. At the same time, part of it broke off. As it turned out, it was screwed to the radiator with three self-tapping screws. The driver is easily removed from the lamp housing.

The self-tapping screws that screw the plastic ring of the base cover the driver, and it is difficult to see them, but they are on the same axis with the thread to which the adapter part of the radiator is screwed. Therefore, a thin Phillips screwdriver can be reached.

The driver turned out to be assembled according to the transformer circuit. Checking all the elements, except for the microcircuit, did not reveal any failed ones. Therefore, the microcircuit is faulty, I did not even find a mention of its type on the Internet. The LED bulb could not be repaired, it will come in handy for spare parts. But studied her device.

Repair LED lamp series "LL" GU10-3W

Disassemble the burnt led light bulb GU10-3W with protective glass turned out to be, at first glance, impossible. An attempt to remove the glass led to its puncture. With the application of great effort, the glass cracked.

By the way, in the marking of the lamp, the letter G means that the lamp has a pin base, the letter U means that the lamp belongs to the class of energy-saving light bulbs, and the number 10 means the distance between the pins in millimeters.

LED bulbs with a GU10 base have special pins and are installed in a socket with a turn. Thanks to the expanding pins, the LED lamp is clamped in the socket and is held securely even when shaking.

In order to disassemble this LED light bulb, I had to drill a hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm in its aluminum case at the level of the surface of the printed circuit board. The drilling location must be chosen in such a way that the drill does not damage the LED when exiting. If there is no drill at hand, then the hole can be made with a thick awl.

Next, a small screwdriver is threaded into the hole and, acting like a lever, the glass is lifted. I removed the glass from two light bulbs without problems. If the test of the LEDs by the tester showed their serviceability, then the printed circuit board is removed.

After separating the board from the lamp housing, it immediately became obvious that the current-limiting resistors burned out in both one and the other lamp. The calculator determined their denomination from the bands, 160 ohms. Since the resistors burned out in LED bulbs of different batches, it is obvious that their power, judging by the size of 0.25 W, does not correspond to the power released when the driver is operating at maximum ambient temperature.

The printed circuit board of the driver was solidly filled with silicone, and I did not disconnect it from the board with LEDs. I cut off the leads of the burnt resistors at the base and soldered more powerful resistors to them, which were at hand. In one lamp, a 150 Ohm resistor with a power of 1 W was soldered, in the second two in parallel 320 Ohm with a power of 0.5 W.

In order to prevent accidental contact with the output of the resistor, to which the mains voltage is connected with metal case lamp, it was insulated with a drop of hot melt adhesive. It is waterproof and an excellent insulator. I often use it for sealing, insulating and securing electrical wires and other parts.

Hot melt adhesive is available in the form of rods with a diameter of 7, 12, 15 and 24 mm different colors, transparent to black. It melts, depending on the brand, at a temperature of 80-150 °, which allows it to be melted with an electric soldering iron. It is enough to cut off a piece of the rod, place it in right place and heat up. The hot melt will take on the consistency of May honey. After cooling it becomes solid again. When reheated, it becomes liquid again.

After replacing the resistors, the performance of both bulbs was restored. It remains only to fix the printed circuit board and the protective glass in the lamp housing.

When repairing LED lamps, I used liquid nails "Installation" moment to fix printed circuit boards and plastic parts. The glue is odorless, adheres well to the surfaces of any materials, remains plastic after drying, has sufficient heat resistance.

It is enough to take a small amount of glue on the end of a screwdriver and apply it to the places where the parts come into contact. After 15 minutes, the glue will already hold.

When gluing the printed circuit board, in order not to wait, holding the board in place, as the wires pushed it out, fixed the board additionally at several points with hot glue.

The LED lamp began to flash like a strobe

I had to repair a pair of LED lamps with drivers assembled on a microcircuit, the malfunction of which consisted in flashing light at a frequency of about one hertz, like in a strobe.

One instance of the LED lamp began to flash immediately after being turned on for the first few seconds and then the lamp began to glow normally. Over time, the duration of the lamp flashing after switching on began to increase, and the lamp began to flash continuously. The second copy of the LED lamp began to flash continuously all of a sudden.

After disassembling the lamps, it turned out that the electrolytic capacitors installed immediately after the rectifier bridges failed in the drivers. It was easy to determine the malfunction, since the capacitor cases were swollen. But even if the capacitor looks without external defects in appearance, it is still necessary to start repairing the LED light bulb with a stroboscopic effect by replacing it.

After replacing the electrolytic capacitors with serviceable ones, the stroboscopic effect disappeared and the lamps began to shine normally.

Online calculators for determining the value of resistors
by color coding

When repairing LED lamps, it becomes necessary to determine the value of the resistor. According to the standard, the marking of modern resistors is carried out by applying colored rings to their cases. 4 colored rings are applied to simple resistors, and 5 to high-precision resistors.

Attention! This design does not have galvanic isolation from the high voltage AC network. Strictly observe safety precautions. When repeating the design, you do everything at your own peril and risk. The author is not responsible for your actions.

The article considers the design of an LED lamp powered by an AC mains with a voltage of up to 240 V and a frequency of 50/60 Hz. This lamp has been serving me for more than two years and I want to share this design with you. The lamp has a very a simple circuit current limitation, which makes it possible to repeat the design for beginner radio amateurs. It has low power and can be used as a night light or to illuminate a room where high brightness is not needed, but such a factor as low power consumption and long service life is important. You can hang it in the entrance or on the landing and not worry about turning off or high electricity consumption - its service life is practically limited by the service life of the LEDs used, since this lamp does not have a pulse converter, which often fail faster than the LEDs themselves, and the radio elements are here selected in such a way that the rated voltages and operating currents of both capacitors with diodes and the LEDs themselves are not exceeded, even at the maximum allowable voltage and frequency in the supply network.

The lamp has the following characteristics:

The lamp uses three-crystal warm white LEDs of the smd5050 type:

When a rated current of 20 mA flows, a voltage of about 3.3 V drops on one LED chip. These are the main parameters for calculating a quenching capacitor to power the lamp.

The crystals of all nine LEDs are connected in series with each other and thus the same current flows through each crystal. This achieves the same glow and maximum life of the LEDs and therefore the entire lamp. The LED connection diagram is shown in the figure:

After soldering, this LED matrix is obtained:

This is what it looks like from the front:

I present to you circuit diagram of this led lamp:

The lamp uses a full-wave rectifier on diodes D1-D4. Resistor R1 limits the inrush current when the lamp is turned on. Capacitor C2 is a filter capacitor and smooths out current ripples through the LED matrix. For this case, its capacitance in microfarads can be approximately calculated by the formula:

where I is the current through the LED array in milliamps and U is the voltage drop across it in volts. You should not chase too much capacity of this capacitor, since the current-quenching capacitor acts as a current limiter, and the connected LED matrix is a voltage stabilizer.

In this case, you can use a capacitor with a capacity of 2.2-4.7 microfarads. Parallel to it, the installed resistor R3 ensures that this capacitor is completely discharged after the power is turned off. Resistor R2 plays the same role for current-quenching capacitor C1. Now the main question is how to calculate the capacitance of the quenching capacitor? There are many formulas and online calculators on the Internet for this, but they all underestimated the result and gave a lower capacity, which was confirmed in practice. When using formulas from various sites and after using online calculators, in most cases, a capacitance of 0.22 microfarads was obtained. When installing a capacitor with this capacity and measuring the current flowing through the LED matrix, a result of 12 mA was obtained at a mains voltage of 240 V and a frequency of 50 Hz:

Then I went the longer way and first calculated the required quenching resistance, and then derived the capacitance of the quenching capacitor. For the initial data we have:

Supply voltage: 220 V. Let's take the maximum possible - 240 V.
I took the network frequency at 60 Hz. At a frequency of 50 Hz, less current will flow through the matrix and the lamp will shine less brightly, but there will be a margin.
The voltage drop on the LED matrix will be 27 * 3.3 = 89.1 V, since we have 27 LED crystals connected in series and each of them will drop approximately 3.3 V. Let's round this value to 90.
At a maximum frequency of 60 Hz and a mains voltage of 240 V, the current flowing through the matrix must not exceed 20 mA.

The calculations use the effective values of currents and voltages. According to Ohm's law, the damping resistance should be:

where Uc - network voltage (V)

U m - LED matrix voltage (V)

I m - current through the matrix (A).

Since we use a capacitor as a damping resistance, then X c = R and according to the well-known formula for capacitance:

we calculate the required capacitance of the capacitor:

where f - mains frequency (Hz)

Xc - required capacitance (Ohm)

I remind you that the value of the capacitance of the capacitor obtained in this case is valid for a power supply frequency of 60 Hz. For a frequency of 50 Hz, according to calculations, a value of 0.42 microfarads is obtained. To check the validity, I temporarily put two 0.22 uF capacitors connected in parallel with the resulting total capacitance of 0.44 uF, and when measuring the current flowing through the LED matrix, a value of 21 mA was recorded:

But for me, durability and versatility were important, and based on the calculation for a frequency of 60 Hz with the result of the required capacitance of 0.35 microfarads, I took a close rating with a capacitance of 0.33 microfarads. I also advise you to take a capacitor with a slightly smaller capacity than the calculated one, so as not to exceed the allowable current of the LEDs used.

Further, substituting the formula for calculating the resistance into the formula for determining the capacitance and reducing the entire expression, I derived a universal formula into which, by substituting the initial values, you can calculate the required capacitance of the capacitor for any number of LEDs in the lamp and any supply voltage:

The final formula takes the following form:

Where C - capacitance of the quenching capacitor (uF)

I d - permissible rated current of the LED used in the lamp (mA)

f - mains frequency (Hz)

Uc - supply voltage (V)

n - number of LEDs used

U d - voltage drop on one LED (V)

Maybe someone will be too lazy to make these calculations, but this formula can be used to determine the capacitance for any LED lamp with any number of series-connected LEDs of any color. For example, you can make a lamp from 16 red LEDs by substituting the voltage drop corresponding to the red LEDs into the formula. The main thing is to stick to reasonable limits, do not exceed the number of LEDs with a total voltage on the matrix up to the mains voltage and do not use too much powerful LEDs. Thus, it is possible to manufacture a lamp with a power of up to 5-7 watts. AT otherwise a capacitor of too large a capacity may be needed and strong current ripples may occur.

Let's go back to my lamp and the photo below shows the radio elements that I used:

I did not find a capacitor with a capacity of 0.33 microfarads and I put two capacitors connected in parallel with a capacitance of 0.22 and 0.1 microfarads. With such a capacitance, the current flowing through the matrix will be slightly less than the calculated one. The filter capacitor in my case is for a voltage of 250 V, but I strongly recommend using a capacitor for a voltage of 400 V. Although the voltage drop across my LED matrix does not exceed 90 V, but in the event of a break or burnout of at least one of the LEDs, the voltage across the filter capacitor reaches the amplitude value, which is more than 330 V at an operating voltage in the supply network of 240 V. (U a \u003d 1.4U)

As a case, I used part of a compact energy-saving fluorescent lamp pulling out the electronic stuffing from it:

I made the board by surface mounting and it easily fit into the specified case:

I glued the LED matrix with double tape to a round piece of getinax, which I screwed to the body with two screws and nuts:

I also made a small reflector by cutting it out of a tin can:

I've spent real measurements at a supply voltage of 240 V and a frequency of 50 Hz:

The constant current through the LED matrix took on a value of 16 mA, which does not exceed the rated current of the LEDs used:

I also designed a printed circuit board for radio elements in the Sprint-Layout program. All parts fit on an area of 30x30 mm. You can see the view of this printed circuit board in the figures:

I provided this PCB in PDF formats, Gerber and Sprint-Layout. You can freely download these files. Although KD105 diodes are indicated on the diagram, since they are currently rare, the printed circuit board is divorced for 1N4007 diodes. You can also use other medium power rectifier diodes for a voltage of 600 V and a current 1.5-2 times greater than the current consumption LED matrix. I will give a recommendation on the account of the assembly of this matrix. I temporarily glued all the LEDs with the front side to the masking tape and soldered all the leads according to the diagram, after which I glued the finished matrix from the side of the leads onto double-sided tape and removed the paper masking tape from the front side. If you have the opportunity, I recommend placing the LEDs at a greater distance from each other, as they will generate heat and from close proximity can overheat and degrade quickly.

Personally, this lamp has been shining for me for seven hours a day for the third year and so far there have been no problems. I also attach an Excel spreadsheet with a formula for the calculation to the article. In it, you just need to substitute the initial values \u200b\u200band as a result you will get the required capacitance of the quenching capacitor. All bright and durable light bulbs. Leave feedback and share the article, as there are many incorrect formulas and calculators on the Internet that give the wrong result. Here everything is tested by experience and confirmed by time and real measurements.

List of radio elements

Designation	Type of	Denomination	Quantity	My notepad
	Capacitors
C1	Capacitor	0.33uF 400V	1	To notepad
C2	electrolytic capacitor	3.3uF 400V	1	To notepad

	Resistors
R1	Resistor

A year ago I ordered one-watt LEDs for creativity. So I decided to make a LED light bulb into a table lamp. Who cares, let's go.
LEDs at that time cost a little more. Today I saw the price of 7.67 per hundred.
The LEDs came in a standard package with a bubble wrap inside. Everything was packaged top notch. I don't see the point in showing the unboxing.
All specifications are written on the package. How I missed these toys when I was a kid!

Exactly 100pcs.
And now to business. I decided to experiment (to implement, so to speak).
I took a faulty energy saver. He carefully took out all the giblets from her.

We have special containers for the collection and disposal of energy-saving lamps in our city. It's a good thing, because they (light bulbs) contain mercury salts. Be careful when disassembling.
I sawed out a circle with a diameter of about 10 cm from an aluminum (painted white) blank. It will be a kind of radiator. I sawed out the same circle from foil getinaks. I used to have a lot of this stuff.

I drilled twelve holes in the textolite for LED eyes. I will solder to the board a little inside out, as if inside out. So it will be more convenient to press them to the radiator.

I did not bother with etching the board. I just made cuts in the foil where needed. It didn't turn out very nice. But the beauty will not be visible. The main thing is to be reliable.
In this arrangement, all LEDs are connected in series. If anyone needs a different connection scheme, you will have to make one cut more and put a jumper in another place.
For better heat dissipation, each LED was smeared with KPT-8 paste.

Now I press this whole structure against an aluminum disk.

Before all these operations, I painted the PCB on the visible side with nickel.

There are just two holes left for attaching to the energy saver.

Here's what happened.

That's just to make it light up, you need a driver.
The easiest way is to buy.
The driver can be applied from this review. And the driver is good and the review too.

Since the driver is designed for voltage up to 18V and current 300mA, the LEDs will have to be connected in two parallels with 6 LEDs in each. The LEDs will operate at 50% of nominal (current 150mA in each parallel). But at the same time, their efficiency will increase by 1.5 times. As a result, we will have a light bulb of about 6W of pure LED power. It will shine brighter than a 60W incandescent bulb.
For those who do not want to wait or buy a driver for any reason, you can make it yourself. But it will be a driver with a capacitor as a ballast. About all the pros and cons of such schemes, I have already written repeatedly. I see no reason to make an electronic driver on my own at home. Cheaper to buy ready-made.
The standard scheme of the Chinese driver with minor changes.

In order to calculate the power of a light bulb, you need to know the current through the LEDs and the voltage drop across them. The voltage drop across 12 LEDs connected in series is about 36V.
The current can be calculated from formula (2):

With a capacitance C1 \u003d 2.2 microfarads, the power of the light bulb will be about 4.6W
For those who do not want to solder the driver themselves, you can take it from a faulty Chinese one. C1 will have to solder a new one, based on the calculated power.

The luminaire is made in such a way that even with the use of a ballast driver it is by no means possible to fall under the damaging effect electric current. All live parts are inaccessible.

Everything is working.
How to properly dispose of the information from my review, everyone decides for himself. I hope that at least someone helped. To whom something is not clear about this lamp, ask questions. With the rest - throw in a personal, I will definitely answer.
That's all!
Good luck!

I plan to buy +54 Add to favorites Liked the review +100 +190

Hello to all masters! Today I want to show you several designs of LED lamps that can be made from outdated "energy saving" and. The essence of the idea is that you can give new life to old things and they will serve for the benefit of man for a long time to come. The scheme is common for all three designs - a conventional transformerless power supply. You can read more about his work here.

LED lamp for night light

The first design is of low power, so it is planned to install it in a night light. The lamp is assembled on the basis of four three-chip SMD5050 LEDs. Current consumption 4.5 mA. Ballast capacitor 0.1uF.

LED lamp 2 watt

Lamp for 2 watts of fifty-four single-chip SMD3528 LEDs in a table lamp. Current consumption 11 mA. Capacitor 0.47uF.

Lamp for 5.5 watts of thirty three-crystal SMD5050 LEDs in the hallway. Its current consumption is 60 mA. Capacitor 1.5uF.

Power supply scheme for LED lamps

Everything is going to be very simple, here is the scheme for which we need:

resistor 100 ohm * 1W,
resistor 1 MΩ * 0.25 W, needed to discharge a non-polar capacitor after turning off the power,
any diode bridge with an operating voltage of at least 400 volts (or an assembly of four diodes that can be taken from the same “energy savings”),
a non-polar capacitor from 0.1 to 2.0 uF for a voltage of at least 275 volts (preferably 400 volts), it limits the current supplied to the LEDs,
an electrolytic capacitor from 2 microfarads and a maximum voltage of at least 400 volts (also can be taken from the "energy saver"), it smoothes voltage ripples, eliminating the flickering of LEDs,
and, of course, any identical LEDs.

All LEDs are connected in series (plus to minus) and connected to the circuit, observing the polarity. A non-polar capacitor is selected based on the current of the LEDs, which can be viewed in the datasheet for this LED, according to this table:

But it’s better, of course, by inserting a multimeter (in 200 mA mode) into the power gap of the LEDs, to control the current so that it does not exceed the rated current of the LEDs, in order to avoid premature failure.

WARNING: This circuit does not have galvanic isolation from the network, so you must be careful when working, do not touch the bare sections of the circuit connected to the device with your hands, in order to avoid electric shock!

Archives at printed circuit boards for lamps can download from this link. Good luck in your creative endeavors and see you again on the pages of the site radio circuits! was with you Temych.

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10.11.2020

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