LED indicator of current in circuits with capacitive ballast - Designs of simple complexity - Circuits for beginners. LED rechargeable flashlight - diagram, repair, how to make Lantern en 0 003 pho
In the life of every person there are moments when you need lighting, but there is no electricity. This may be a banal power outage, and the need to repair the wiring in the house, and possibly a forest hike or something like that.
And, of course, everyone knows that in this case only an electric flashlight will help out - a compact and at the same time functional device. Now there are many different types of this product on the electrical engineering market. These are ordinary flashlights with incandescent lamps, and LED, with batteries and batteries. And there are a great many companies producing these devices - Dick, Lux, Cosmos, etc.
But what is the principle of its work, not many people think. Meanwhile, knowing the device and circuit of an electric flashlight, you can, if necessary, repair it or even assemble it. with my own hands. This is the issue we will try to figure out.
The simplest lanterns
Since flashlights are different, it makes sense to start with the simplest - with a battery and an incandescent lamp, and also consider it possible faults. The scheme of such a device is elementary.
In fact, there is nothing in it except a battery, a power button and a light bulb. And therefore there are no special problems with him. Here are a few possible minor annoyances that can lead to the failure of such a flashlight:
- Oxidation of any of the contacts. It can be the contacts of a switch, a light bulb or a battery. You just need to clean these circuit elements, and the device will work again.
- Incandescent lamp burning - everything is simple here, replacing the light element will solve this problem.
- Complete discharge of batteries - replacement of batteries with new ones (or charging, if they are rechargeable).
- No contact or broken wire. If the flashlight is no longer new, then it makes sense to change all the wires. It's not at all difficult to do this.
LED flashlight
This type of flashlight has a more powerful luminous flux and at the same time consumes very little energy, which means that the batteries in it will last longer. It's all about the design of light elements - LEDs do not have an incandescent filament, they do not consume energy for heating, therefore the coefficient useful action such devices are higher by 80–85%. The role of additional equipment in the form of a converter with the participation of a transistor, a resistor and a high-frequency transformer is also great.
If the flashlight battery is built-in, then it must come with it and Charger.
The circuit of such a lamp consists of one or more LEDs, a voltage converter, a switch and a battery. In earlier models of flashlights, the amount of energy consumed by the LEDs had to match that produced by the source.
Now this problem is solved with the help of a voltage converter (it is also called a multiplier). Actually, he is the main detail that contains circuit diagram flashlight.
If you want to make such a device with your own hands, there will be no particular difficulties. Transistor, resistor and diodes are not a problem. The most difficult moment will be winding a high-frequency transformer on a ferrite ring, which is called a blocking generator.
But even this can be dealt with by taking a similar ring from a faulty electronic ballast energy saving lamp. Although, of course, if you don’t want to mess around or don’t have time, then you can find highly efficient converters such as 8115 on sale. With their help, using a transistor and a resistor, it became possible to manufacture an LED flashlight on a single battery.
The very scheme of the LED flashlight is similar to the simplest device, and you should not dwell on it, because even a child is able to assemble it.
By the way, when used in a voltage converter circuit on an old, simplest flashlight powered by a 4.5 volt square battery, which you can’t buy now, you can safely put a 1.5 volt battery, i.e. the usual “finger” or “little finger” battery. There will be no loss in light output. The main task in this case is to have at least the slightest idea of \u200b\u200bradio engineering, literally at the level of knowledge of what a transistor is, and also be able to hold a soldering iron in your hands.
Refinement of Chinese lanterns
Sometimes it happens that a purchased (seemingly quite high-quality) flashlight with a battery completely fails. And it is not at all necessary that the buyer is to blame for improper operation, although this also occurs. More often - this is a mistake when assembling a Chinese lantern in pursuit of quantity at the expense of quality.
Of course, in this case, it will have to be redone, somehow modernized, because money has been spent. Now you need to understand how to do this and whether it is possible to compete with a Chinese manufacturer and repair such a device yourself.
Considering the most common option, in which when the device is turned on, the charging indicator lights up, but the flashlight does not charge and does not work, you can see this.
A common manufacturer's mistake is that the charge indicator (LED) is connected to the circuit in parallel with the battery, which should not be allowed. At the same time, the buyer turns on the flashlight, and seeing that it is not lit, re-energizes the charge. As a result, all the LEDs burn out at once.
The fact is that not all manufacturers indicate that it is impossible to charge such devices with the LEDs on, because it will be impossible to repair them, all that remains is to replace them.
So, the task of upgrading is to connect the charge indicator in series with the battery.
As can be seen from the diagram, this problem is completely solvable.
But if the Chinese put a resistor 0118 in their product, then the LEDs will have to be changed constantly, because the current supplied to them will be very high, and no matter what light elements are installed, they cannot withstand the load.
LED headlamp
In recent years, such a light device has become quite widespread. Indeed, it is very convenient when the hands are free, and the beam of light hits where the person is looking, this is just the main advantage headlamp. Previously, only miners could boast of such, and even then, to wear it, a helmet was needed, on which the lantern, in fact, was attached.
Now the fastening of such a device is convenient, you can wear it under any circumstances, and a rather voluminous and heavy battery does not hang on your belt, which, moreover, must also be charged once a day. The modern one is much smaller and lighter, moreover, it has a very low power consumption.
So what is such a lamp? And the principle of its operation is no different from the LED. The options are the same - rechargeable or with removable batteries. The number of LEDs varies from 3 to 24 depending on the characteristics of the battery and converter.
In addition, such lights usually have 4 glow modes, and not just one. These are weak, medium, strong and signal - when the LEDs blink at short intervals.
The modes of the headlamp LED flashlight are controlled by a microcontroller. Moreover, if it is available, even a strobe mode is possible. In addition, this does not harm LEDs at all, unlike incandescent lamps, since their service life does not depend on the number of on-off cycles due to the absence of an incandescent filament.
So which flashlight should you choose?
Of course, flashlights can be different in terms of voltage consumption (from 1.5 to 12 V), and with different switches (touch or mechanical), with an audible warning about low battery. It can be the original or its analogues. And it is not always possible to determine what kind of device is in front of your eyes. After all, until it fails and its repair begins, it is impossible to see what microcircuit or transistor is in it. It's probably better to choose the one you like, and possible problems decide as it comes.
As a sample, we take a rechargeable flashlight from DiK, Lux or Cosmos (see photo). This pocket flashlight, small in size, comfortable in the hand and with a fairly large reflector - 55.8 mm in diameter, led matrix which has 5 white LEDs, which provides a good and large spot of illumination.
In addition, the shape of a flashlight is familiar to everyone, and to many since childhood, in a word - a brand. The charger is located inside the flashlight itself, you just need to remove the back cover and plug it into a power outlet. But, nothing stands still, and this flashlight design has also undergone changes, especially its internal filling. Latest model for this moment- DIK AN 0-005 (or DIK-5 EURO).
The earlier versions are DIK AN 0-002 and DIK AN 0-003 differ in that they contained disk batteries (3 pcs), Ni-Cd series D-025 and D-026, with a capacity of 250 mA / h, or models AN 0-003 - assembly of newer batteries D-026D with a larger capacity, 320 mAh and incandescent bulbs for 3.5 or 2.5 V, with a current consumption of 150 and 260 mA, respectively. The LED, for comparison, consumes about 10 mA and even a matrix of 5 pieces is 50 mA.
Of course, with such characteristics, the flashlight could not shine for a long time, its maximum was enough for 1 hour, especially the first models.
What is there in latest model flashlight DIK AN 0-005?
Well, firstly - an LED matrix of 5 LEDs, unlike 3 or incandescent bulbs, which gives much more light with less current consumption, and secondly, there is only 1 finger modern Ni-MH battery per 1.2 in the flashlight -1.5 V and capacity from 1000 to 2700 mAh.
Some will ask, how can a 1.2 V AA battery “light up” LEDs, because in order for them to shine brightly, about 3.5 V is needed? For this reason, in earlier models, they put 3 batteries in series and got 3.6 V.
But, here I don’t know who first came up with it, the Chinese or someone else, to make a voltage converter (multiplier) from 1.2 V to 3.5 V. The circuit is simple, in Chinese lanterns it’s just 2 parts - a resistor and a similar radio component on a transistor marked - 8122 or 8116, or SS510, or SK5B. SS510 is a Schottky diode.
Such a flashlight shines well, brightly, and what is not unimportant - for a long time, and charge-discharge cycles are not 150, as in previous models, but much more, which increases the service life at times. But!! In order for the LED flashlight to serve for a long time, you must insert it into a 220 V socket in the off state! If this rule is not followed, then when charging, you can easily burn the Schottky diode (SS510), and often the LEDs at the same time.
I once had to repair a flashlight DIK AN 0-005. I don’t know exactly what caused it to fail, but I assume that they plugged it into a socket and forgot it for several days, although it takes no more than 20 hours to charge according to the passport. In short, the battery failed, it leaked, and 3 out of 5 LEDs burned out, plus the converter (diode) also stopped working.
I had a 2700 mAh finger-type battery, it was left from an old camera, LEDs too, but it turned out to be problematic to find the part - SS510 (Schottky diode). This LED flashlight is most likely of Chinese origin and such a part can probably only be bought there. And then I decided to blind the voltage converter from those parts that are, i.e. from domestic: transistor KT315 or KT815, high-frequency transformer and others (see diagram).
The scheme is not new, it has existed for a long time, I just used it in this flashlight. True, instead of 2 radio components, like the Chinese, I got 3, but free.
The electrical circuit, as you can see, is elementary, the most difficult thing is to wind the RF transformer on a ferrite ring. The ring can be used from the old impulse block power supply, from a computer, or from an energy-saving non-working light bulb (see photo).
The outer diameter of the ferrite ring is 10-15 mm, the thickness is approximately 3-4 mm. It is necessary to wind 2 windings of 30 turns with a wire of 0.2-0.3 mm, i.e., first we wind 30 turns, then we make a tap from the middle and another 30. If you take the ferrite ring from the board fluorescent light bulb- it is better to use 2 pieces, put them together. On one ring, the circuit will also work, but the glow will be weaker.
I compared 2 flashlights for glow, the original (Chinese) and the one remade according to the above scheme - I almost did not see any differences in brightness. The converter, by the way, can be inserted not only into a rechargeable flashlight, but also into a regular one that runs on batteries, then it will be possible to power it from just 1 1.5 V battery.
The flashlight charger circuit has hardly changed, with the exception of the ratings of some parts. The charging current is approximately 25 mA. When charging, the flashlight must be turned off! And do not click the switch during charging, since the charging voltage is more than 2 times higher than the battery voltage, and if it goes to the converter and intensifies, the LEDs will partially or completely have to be changed ...
In principle, according to the above scheme, an LED flashlight can be easily made with your own hands, by mounting it, for example, in the case of some old, even the most ancient flashlight, or you can make the case yourself.
And in order not to change the structure of the switch of the old flashlight, where a small 2.5-3.5 V incandescent bulb was used, you need to break the already burned-out light bulb and solder 3-4 white LEDs to the base instead of a glass bulb.
And also, for charging, mount a connector for a power cord from an old printer or receiver. But, I want to draw your attention, if the body of the flashlight is metal - do not mount the charger there, but make it remote, i.e. separately. It is not at all difficult to remove the AA battery from the flashlight and insert it into the charger. And don't forget to insulate everything well! Especially in those places where there is a voltage of 220 V.
I think that after the alteration, the old flashlight will serve you for more than one year ...
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