Homemade wind generator on a dynamo hub. Hiking wind turbine from a dynamo hub
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The camping wind generator is finally manufactured and tested. It all started with last year's article (winter 2011) about how you can make a portable wind generator from a dynamo hub. But the matter never came to practice, and then I nevertheless ordered a generator (dynamo bushing) and in 2 evenings I made a camping windmill from simple parts. Waited a long time impatiently until the dynamo hub reaches me and now she has arrived.
I ordered a Dynamo bushing in an online store, its cost with delivery by mail was almost 1,500 rubles. Below is her photo. By the way, it weighs less than 500 grams, I don’t know for sure, I never read the instructions.
I want to note right away that when I wrote the first article on the site about the manufacture of this windmill, I encountered a lot of negative feedback from people about such a camping windmill from this dynamo hub. But I want to note that all the calculations and descriptions were absolutely correct and almost changed, although many considered this nonsense, and said that nothing would work. Almost a year has passed since the first article was written, and in the manufacture of the windmill, I practically did not deviate from the original version of the manufacture, which means that I did not make a mistake in writing the first article, since in practice the windmill works fine.
To confirm, I'm testing a camping windmill on my suburban area simultaneously filmed mobile phone video, but the quality is terrible. The video shows the operation of the windmill in real conditions. The spinner works great with a little breeze, which I didn't even feel when I filmed the video. In the video, in some places, when the wind intensifies, the wind generator makes noise, but this is due to an incorrectly made tail, the tin of the tail rumbles in the wind hitting the beam, due to poor and incorrect fastening, but in the near future I will fix this, otherwise the windmill is absolutely silent. There are slight vibrations from unbalanced blades, and from sticking of the magnetic poles of the generator under load, but they are felt only when you hold the mast with your hand. By the way, in the video, the mast of the windmill is holding on to the garden tool shed, and not to the toilet.
The weight of the windmill when folded, disassembled is almost 4 kg., Yes, of course, this is not a small weight for hiking, but all its parts are made of metal and with a large margin of safety. If you make the main parts of the windmill from plastic and plastic, then it will weigh twice as much. The blades and tail are made from an old and crumpled piece of galvanized sheet, and the beam that holds the tail is from an aluminum curtain.
I recorded a video of testing a camping wind generator.
Sorry for the quality - video from an "ancient" mobile phone.
Further on in more detail about the details of the windmill. I will not describe much, since everything is clear and described in the previous articles, I will only comment a little on the photos of the windmill. All parts of the windmill are painted in green color for camouflage, and so that they do not shine in the sun, giving out the location of the tent from long distances.
The photo below shows the rotary axis of the windmill, which is made from a bicycle front hub. It has a homemade brush knot. The brush assembly is needed so that the wire coming from the generator along the mast does not twist. In the princep it is possible without it, but then you need a hollow axis to let the wire through it, and then down the mast.
The photo shows how the tail boom is attached to the plate. I made everything from simple parts that I had and assembled everything literally at the computer table, so I didn’t think about aesthetics and beauty, for marking the main reliability and maintainability in field conditions, that's it turned out such a nondescript, but reliable and durable design.
This photo shows all the main details of the windmill, this is a corner-plate on which all the details of the wind generator are attached. As you can see, the dynamo bushing (generator) is screwed by the rotor-shaft to the plate, and the generator stator rotates, and in conventional generators, on the contrary, the shaft rotates. But as it turned out, this is even better, since it is convenient to fix all the details. A triangular disk made of plywood is fixed to the generator stator with the help of three self-tapping screws, holes are drilled into it for the bolts of the blades. To the other part of the plate is screwed a swivel axle from a bicycle hub. Next, the tail boom and tail are attached to the plate, after the blades and the windmill is attached to the mast with a clamp.
The windmill is easily and quickly assembled and disassembled, assembly and disassembly takes about 15 minutes. In field conditions, it will take a little more time to start. And if such a windmill is used in the country, then it can be installed on an iron mast. The most dimensional part of the windmill is the blades, the length of the blades is 80 cm, they, in principle, should fit in a hiking backpack, but it is better to pick up a cover for it, for example, a tent cover.
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MINI WIND GENERATOR
I will write about the characteristics approximately, since they depend on the wind.
With a wind of 2-3 m / s, the wind generator generates about 2-2.5 watts, with a more powerful wind of up to 5 m / s, it will already generate more than 4 watts. Further, with an increase in wind strength, the windmill is able to produce more than 5 watts, but on the test the maximum wind was about 5 m / s, and the windmill worked normally. From twisting with my hand, I even lit a 10-watt car light bulb with it. In principle, a manual generator can be made from a hub dynamo, if you attach a handle to it and turn it, such a charger will be much more powerful than the well-known Chinese manual charging dynamos.
When twisting by hand at home, the tester showed more than 20 volts, an average voltage of 8-11 volts. If you put longer and narrower blades, then the windmill will spin more quickly and give stable more than 12 volts, and therefore charge a 12-volt battery.
Together with the windmill, I plan to use a buffer battery to accumulate the generated energy in order to use energy even when there is no wind and connect more powerful devices (lighting, electronics). The battery will also act as a voltage stabilizer. In principle, a charge controller is not needed here, since the battery will hardly be recharged from such a current during everyday use of energy.
By the way, such a windmill can not only be taken on long trips, but it can also be permanently installed at home or in the country, and paired with a battery, it will perfectly cope with night lighting of a yard or room, and you can also charge a mobile phone from its buffer battery , listen to the radio and watch portable TV and more. You can even connect a laptop and use it for a while - until the buffer battery runs out, and then wait until the windmill charges it again. ti volt battery, car adapters and charging device. But for this it is necessary that the windmill can charge a 12-volt battery, and for this you need to put narrower and longer blades, about 110-120 cm long and 10 cm wide. In general, this already depends on specific tasks, and the phone can be charged even directly through a limiting resistor, or from a buffer battery.
That's all, the wind generator is ready and tested, then I will fix the tail so that it does not rattle, and I will try to test it in a stronger wind than it was during the test, and make longer and narrower blades to get not 8-11 volts, but more than 14- and charge the 12 volt battery.
Eolic Folding Portable Wind Turbine
Renewable energy is one of the hottest topics in the energy market right now, and until recently, solar has been the focus of much of the attention. While there are many technical devices, such as solar briefcases and solar-powered laptop chargers that can use solar energy, there are very few portable devices that use other sources of renewable energy. The folding wind turbine has all the right ideas, but is probably a little bit ahead of its time.
Eolic has a very interesting design, but there are doubts as to whether their foldable wind generator is capable of doing the job for which it was created. The Eolic looks very small, and the idea that it can generate enough power to power anything seems incredible, and is it really strong enough to withstand strong winds? On this moment it may turn out to be nothing more than wishful thinking.
Werewolf_Zarin 04-11-2011 19:44
You can attach blades to any motor with an excitation magnet and enjoy)))
The most important and most important node is the rotary mechanism of the wind generator, and in this design it is completely absent. When the wind direction changes, the device does not wake up and why the tail design is unclear.
Graber83 04-11-2011 20:14
Werewolf_Zarin
Watch attentively
Everything is included in the diagram.
Werewolf_Zarin 04-11-2011 20:58
SpongeBob 04-11-2011 22:15
quote: Watch attentively
Everything is included in the diagram.
Illiterate crap. The author of the article himself did not make a windmill on this sleeve. No photo or video of the finished device. Because dynamos are not suitable for these purposes. For try to turn such dynamos by hand and you will understand that the pole magnets create resistance and the rotation is very difficult even without load and is jerky. And on a windmill, the moment of breaking off the blades is extremely important. In short, dynamos are not suitable.
Arcus 04-11-2011 22:29
Well, the use of half of the Chinese charge is a nomination for the Ig Nobel Prize. Does he even understand what is collected there and how it works?
Werewolf_Zarin 04-11-2011 22:34
SpongeBob
And if you increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe blade with its length?
The margin is large in terms of the strength of the bushing, the balls are for sure or the rollers are rolling. Only now to push immediately to the author's idea and not to design this anal. The blades on the shaft housing to the movable rotary mechanism here I think you can’t do without a turner under such wind loads. You need a shaft, insulators to sharpen a support of some type of washer, etc., plus at least one brush will have to be done. Apply a load only after a set of revolutions. What do you think?
Volnomuvolya, by the way, the hinge from the word ball and not like here such a connection will not work because it has mobility in different planes.
Arcus I think he used a diode bridge and electrolyte and not the whole device.
Anton100 04-11-2011 23:24
Show a friend a textbook on electronics, his diode poles are reversed, a 47 nanoFarad capacitor is generally funny in this application.
In the diagram, the diodes are connected correctly.
SIMPLY_SASHA 04-11-2011 23:28
quote: Illiterate crap. The author of the article himself did not make a windmill on this sleeve.
I made a wind generator from a cycling speaker 20 years ago in a radio circle. diode bridge, the truth is more conder. Everything worked. The dynamka was Soviet, which was attached to the fork and driven from the bus (if someone does not remember)
Gin_tonick 04-11-2011 23:53
quote: Originally posted by Spongebob:
Illiterate crap.
For example.
Werewolf_Zarin 04-11-2011 23:55
the article is technically illiterate, I confirm. all that can be taken out of it useful is a bicycle hub generator. By the way, I didn't even know it existed.
Arcus 05-11-2011 12:47
quote: Originally posted by Anton100:
In the diagram, the diodes are connected correctly.
The output from the bridge is correct, but the diode always had a "+" - | > | - "-", and the cathode is indicated by stripes on the case, that is, "-"
In Chinese mobile chargers, 99% do not have a charging controller, the fact that the "light" there changes color is a current indicator and nothing more.
The sense of this board is an indication and a pair of capacitors.
with controller charging Li-Ion The battery has chargers from Samsung E530 (the phone itself does not contain a controller and is connected directly to the battery there), but in Chinese version there, for sure, everything is reduced to a banal voltage limit.
Gin_tonick 05-11-2011 01:21
A simpler option with a minimum of costs.
electronics somehow must have already worked out circuits, I don’t believe that no one has done anything worthwhile on this topic.
SpongeBob 05-11-2011 02:30
quote: Originally posted by Gin_tonick:I posted a youtube link somewhere. Now I drink beer and look for something very lazy. In general, the essence is that a wheel with a dynamo hub was removed from a bicycle, polyethylene was wound around a pair of spokes - a kind of rotor was obtained. Everything was running great...
The idea has a place to be, but just for the sake of charging a mobile phone, carrying such crap with you is, IMHO, superfluous.For example.
What is it spinning? Where is the dyno? Don't make people laugh...
quote: SpongeBob
And if you increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe blade with its length?
Yes, even ordinary generators have to apply a pushing impulse.
You just need to immediately take a normal motor http://www.tlgwindpower.com/ametek.htm
Or wind the generator yourself.
There are working projects here and not just stupid spam designed for an article: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_wind.shtml
Daniel 05-11-2011 12:23
A camping generator, this is more suitable for a solar battery, or for peltier generators.
IMHO - the windmill only wins in terms of price, but loses in terms of power / weight / convenience.
SpongeBob 05-11-2011 14:12
quote: A camping generator, this is more suitable for a solar battery, or for peltier generators.
Werewolf_Zarin 05-11-2011 15:16
quote: Originally posted by Arcus:The output from the bridge is correct, but the diode always had a "+" - | > | - "-", Yes
grayfox62 05-11-2011 19:04
what they attacked, the dynamo hub and the bicycle generator differ like a steam locomotive and formula-1, the capacity of the conder after the bridge is also not fundamental. it is at the input of the charger, a serious drawback in my opinion is the lack of a step-up / step-down stabilizer after the bridge, because with a slight wind, the device will simply idle
SpongeBob 06-11-2011 02:03
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_KKDpvV4i4&feature=related
You can see how sometimes it stops at the points of the magnetic poles, while with a normal generator the windmill would already buzz.
Is that your friend in the video who wrote the article?
He forgot to connect the workload - the sources measure it. Turnovers would be different.
Papa Karla 06-11-2011 15:13
Just turned a wheel with a hub dynamo on my bike, under load it spins with a slight push.
After the DH-3N20 hub dynamo, there is a Schottky diode bridge, a 10,000 uF capacitor, a LiFePo4 9.9V 2.3Ah battery, and a Vampirchik converter (http://vampirchik-sun.nm.ru/stab3.htm). The voltage on the battery is controlled by a miniature voltmeter from ekits.ru.
On trips, a home-made 3W LED headlight is powered by a battery, a GPS navigator is powered by a converter and the phone is charged.
In my opinion, it is quite possible to make a wind generator based on a hub dynamo.
But it is expedient, as the author correctly emphasizes, only for a long stay in one place.
A bottle dynamo or tire sidewall dynamo is a small electric bicycle dynamometer, which is used to power bicycle lights or charge batteries electronic devices including mobile phones and GPS receivers. Therefore, for a simple windmill, there is a desire to use velodynamo as a generator.
But there are problems here - these are high-speed generators, they work well at 1500 rpm and above, so you need a multiplier or you need to reduce the length of the blades at the risk of a small moment of breaking force. But dynamo hubs (bicycle dynamo hubs) are better in this sense, but they are an order of magnitude more expensive with the same power ... Or a stepper motor.
A simple design was proposed by an American inventor and published in the magazine "Rural Mechanizer", No. 2, 1998 ("Wind turbine on a bicycle", Parshin E.). The wind turbine consists of a screw, at the ends of which there are conical caps-receivers of the velocity pressure, which have a large coefficient of resistance from the side of the base when exposed to the wind flow.
The best results can be obtained in the manufacture of a wind turbine from high-strength, frost-resistant plastic (lavsan). However, the perfect design can be created using available materials. The propeller blades are made of a wooden block, in the middle of which a hole is drilled to accommodate the generator shaft. Velocity pressure receivers can be made from plastic bottles.
The power of the wind turbine will increase when using two propellers located in mutually perpendicular directions.
It should be noted that due to the accompanying sound, the wind turbine simultaneously plays the role of a scarecrow: during the day it scares away birds, and at night - moles.
Flying cap: 1 - screw; 2, 3 - propeller blades; 4 - the central part of the screw; 5 - shaft; 6 - electric generator; 7 - coupling collar; 8 - top part support stand; 9 - braces for fastening the rack; 10 - conical caps; 11 - the trajectory of the ends of the screw; 12 - wind direction; 13 - base of the conical cap; 14 - tapering top of the cap
If you are concerned about the issue of obtaining alternative energy, you can assemble such a simple wind generator for yourself. The main part of the spare parts used are bicycle parts. With the help of sprockets and a chain, torque is transmitted to the generator. A part from a bicycle also acts as a generator - this is a dynamo. If there is no dynamo, you can use a DC motor.
As for the propeller, it is made very simply and also from available materials. At the moment, the easiest way to make a propeller is PVC pipe or similar material, the pipe has a suitable profile for making blades.
You will also need to find some scrap metal to make a mast, make a base, and so on. Let's consider this topic in more detail.
Materials and tools that the author used to make a windmill:
Materials:
- a piece of PVC pipe;
- metal plates;
- thin galvanized sheet steel;
- nuts, bolts;
- bearings;
- piece metal tube(for the manufacture of the bearing housing);
- metal clamps (3 pieces);
- paper, marker, scissors (for making a template);
- glue;
- steel corner;
- square pipe (mast);
- wheel from the cart;
- dynamo (or DC motor);
- driving and driven sprocket, chain (from a bicycle).
Instruments:
- scissors;
-
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
-
- multimeter;
- wrenches and other little things.
Wind turbine manufacturing process:
Step one. Let's start with the blades
The author makes the blades from a piece of PVC pipe. First of all, you will need to make a template from paper, and then cut it out with scissors. We apply the template to the pipe and cut out the blades. Each new blade is cut one after the other, resulting in little waste. It is convenient to cut the pipe with the help of.
Mark the beginning of each blade and cut out the pieces, as the author did. The remaining parts are needed to attach the blades to the axle. Metal plates with holes are used as fasteners. We attach the plate to the blade and mark the places for drilling holes. In total, the author drills three holes in each blade.
As for the plates, cut them so that there is a free end for attaching it to the central disk. At the end, trim all the blades with a grinder so that they do not have nicks and so on.
Step two. Making the screw core
The core of the screw, to which the blades are screwed, is made of three plates, a round piece of sheet steel, and a nut. Mark on the central disk where the blades will be, and also determine the center. We install a nut in the center, the author glues it with superglue for ease of assembly.
Let's start welding. First of all, weld the nut that we glued earlier. You need to weld well, as this is the only place where the propeller will be attached. Then weld the plates to the disc to which the blades are attached. They also need to be welded carefully, the author makes a weld on both sides.
Step three. Screw Assembly
Assemble the propeller. To do this, you just need to screw the blades to the core with bolts and nuts.
Step four. Making the base
So that the windmill does not fall, and it can be fixed, make a reliable base for it. To do this, the author cuts a metal corner and then welds the frame.
Step five. Prepare the bearing
In order for the windmill to rotate in any direction around its axis, you will need to fix it on a bearing. The wheel from the trolley acts as such a bearing, which can rotate 360 degrees. Cut off the excess from it with a grinder.
Step six. Assembling the windmill frame
The windmill mast is made from a piece of steel pipe, the author has a square section. The height of the pipe is not large, this design rather involves installation on a roof or on another hill. Weld the mast to the base made earlier.
To the upper end of the mast, weld the part that we got from the cart wheel. Then a steel plate in the form of the letter “G” is welded to it, it will be needed to attach the tail.
Step seven. Bushing with bearings
The propeller shaft rotates on two bearings. The author pressed these bearings into a piece of metal pipe. Be sure to grease the bearings well before installation. In order not to be smart with the hub, you can also successfully use the finished hub from the front or rear axle of the bicycle wheels.
Step eight. Mounting clamps
The author fastens the generator and the bushing with bearings using ordinary steel clamps. To secure the dynamo, you will need to weld an additional plate to the frame.
Step nine. Tail fasteners
Find metal plates and weld them as seen in the photo. One part is welded directly to the rotary plate of the windmill.
Step ten. Sprockets and chain
Take the front bicycle sprocket and cut off everything unnecessary from it. Weld a nut to the center. This sprocket is located on the propeller shaft.
Install the dynamo in the clamp, and install a small diameter sprocket on the shaft. This will make it possible to obtain sufficiently high generator revolutions at relatively low propeller revolutions. That's all, cut to the desired size and put the chain.
On long hikes, there is a problem of charging various portable equipment. In search of solutions to this problem, many options were considered from solar panels to chemical current sources. Solar panels turned out to be very dependent on the sun and in cloudy weather gave practically nothing. And the sun pampers only in summer, and in the off-season and in winter there is practically no sun, and you can’t rely on the favor of nature and the presence of the sun, and they don’t work at night either.
Also, the option with a large battery has disappeared, which would kill all electronics during the campaign, since its charge quickly ends, however, like batteries. There were experiments with chemical elements, in particular with a copper-sulfate element, but its efficiency is very low.
The idea to collect a small windmill came by itself. Although the wind is small, it blows every day and around the clock, which means that the wind generator will work at night and cut off the electronics while I am resting. In search of a small and light generator for a windmill, I thought of bicycle dynamos that pressed against the wheel of a bicycle and generated current to glow the headlights. But these speakers are too revving and start to give current starting from 2000 rpm. Having also wandered around the Internet, I found out that stepper motors from printers are suitable for these purposes, but the power indicators are not indicated anywhere, which means that their power is most likely very small.
The way out turned out to be very simple, it seems that dynamo bushings have been produced for bicycles for a long time, which, in addition to serving as the wheel axle, they also generate a current with an average power of 3 watts, this is just like the power of a standard phone charger, which means this is the most then. Also, these generators are specially designed to work at low speeds, and spin on a bicycle with the speed of its wheel, unlike the old dynamos, which were pressed by the “head” against the tire and made 20-30 revolutions per wheel revolution. Having estimated that the wheels on the bike spin at a maximum of 50-60 rpm at a speed of 10 km / h, at this speed the headlight of the bike starts to glow well. I realized that this generator is ideal, as it is low-speed and will reach full power at 100 revolutions, and at a hundred revolutions the shakes are spinning even from a small breeze.
I decided on the generator, and it was up to my little one to order this generator and assemble a very fast one. I ordered a dynamo hub in an online store. The prices for these generators started from 450 rubles, but I liked one of the aluminum dynamos, its price with delivery cost 1,500 rubles. In principle, it is inexpensive for such a generator, although if you do not chase after appearance, it was possible to order for 450 rubles, but here aluminum, and therefore less weight.
Below is a photo of this generator
About the details and components of a mini wind generator.
While I was waiting for the order, I decided to start assembling the main parts of the windmill. Digging in my bins, I found a piece of a sheet of galvanized sheet, and cut out the blades from it, because I thought that the size of the generator would be a little larger than it actually turned out, I cut out large blades long 80cm, with a skew width of 10 by 15cm. The blades were specially made wide so that they worked in a light wind. But the blades seemed to me too large and heavy for a camping windmill, and I decided to cut the blade out of PVC pipe, for this I sawed the length of the work into 4 parts and cut out 4 blades. The length of the blades is 75 cm. Below is a photo of these blades.
After making two sets of blades for future testing of the windmill, I proceeded with further assembly. As a basis, so to speak, the frame of the windmill was taken by a piece of aluminum curtain. I bought small bolts for assembly in the store, an L-shaped plate for attaching the generator, a wire, and an ordinary bicycle hub, I used it as a rotary axle, the price is 200 rubles and a ready-made rotary axle, though not hollow and the wire cannot be passed through it. But I didn’t want to start the wire from the generator so easily, because it could interfere with the turns of the windmill in the direction of the wind, and I decided to make a current collector - a brush assembly. Having rummaged through my radio components, I found a textolite board, cut out circles from it, on which I soldered home-made brushes, and I glued the whole thing onto the bushing, and I got a ready-made rotary axle with a current collector. Below is a photo of the pivot.
The photo shows how the tail boom is attached to the plate. I made everything from simple parts that I had and assembled everything literally at the computer table, so I didn’t think about aesthetics and beauty, the main thing for me is reliability and maintainability in field conditions, so it turned out such a nondescript, but reliable and durable design.
I will not describe much, since everything is clear and described in the previous articles, I will only comment a little on the photos of the windmill. All parts of the windmill are painted green for camouflage, and so that they do not shine in the sun, giving away the location of the tent from long distances.
The photo shows all the main components of the wind generator. I made everything from simple parts that I had and assembled everything literally at the computer table, so I didn’t think about aesthetics and beauty, for the main thing, reliability and maintainability in field conditions, and so it turned out such a nondescript, but reliable and durable design.
On the right photo you can see all the main details of the windmill, this is a segment of the curtain on which all the details of the wind generator are attached. As you can see, the dynamo bushing (generator) is screwed by the rotor-shaft to the plate, and the generator stator rotates, and in conventional generators, on the contrary, the shaft rotates. But as it turned out, this is even better, since it is convenient to fix all the details. A triangular disk made of plywood is fixed to the generator stator with the help of three self-tapping screws, holes are drilled into it for the bolts of the blades. To the other part of the plate is screwed a swivel axle from a bicycle hub. Next, the tail boom and tail are attached to the plate, after the blades and the windmill is attached to the mast with a clamp.
The windmill is easily and quickly assembled and disassembled, assembly and disassembly takes about 15 minutes. In field conditions, it will take a little more time to nachtu. And if such a windmill is used in the country, then it can be installed on an iron mast. 80 cm, they, in principle, should fit in a hiking backpack, but it is better to pick up a cover for it, for example, a cover from a tent.
I will write about the characteristics approximately, since they depend on the wind.
With a wind of 2-3 m / s, the wind generator generates about 2-2.5 watts, with a more powerful wind of up to 5 m / s, it will already generate more than 4 watts. Further, with an increase in wind strength, the windmill is able to produce more than 5 watts, but on the test the maximum wind was about 5 m / s, and the windmill worked normally. From twisting with my hand, I even lit a 10-watt car light bulb with it. In principle, a manual generator can be made from a hub dynamo, if you attach a handle to it and turn it, such a charger will be much more powerful than the well-known Chinese manual charging dynamos.
When twisting by hand at home, the tester showed more than 20 volts, an average voltage of 8-11 volts. If you put longer and narrower blades, then the windmill will spin more quickly and give stable more than 12 volts, and therefore charge a 12-volt battery.
Together with the windmill, I plan to use a buffer battery to accumulate the generated energy in order to use energy even when there is no wind and connect more powerful devices (lighting, electronics). The battery will also act as a voltage stabilizer. In principle, a charge controller is not needed here, since the battery will hardly be recharged from such a current during everyday use of energy.
By the way, such a windmill can not only be taken on long trips, but it can also be permanently installed at home or in the country, and paired with a battery, it will perfectly cope with night lighting of a yard or room, and you can also charge a mobile phone from its buffer battery , listen to the radio and watch portable TV and more. You can even connect a laptop and use it for a while - until the buffer battery runs out, and then wait until the windmill charges it again. ti volt battery, then car adapters and chargers. But for this it is necessary that the windmill can charge a 12-volt battery, and for this you need to put narrower and longer blades, about 110-120 cm long and 10 cm wide. In general, this already depends on specific tasks, and the phone can be charged even directly through a limiting resistor, or from a buffer battery.
