Homemade from a burnt out energy-saving lamp. What can be obtained from an old energy-saving lamp? Radio components for reuse

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

In one of my articles, I told you that we mainly use tubular and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) for internal lighting of switchgears (RU) of substations.

Read about their advantages and disadvantages.

In this article, I will tell you how to repair a Sylvania Mini-Lynx Economy 20 (W) compact fluorescent lamp made in China.

This lamp worked at the substation for about 1.5 years. If the mode of its operation is translated into hours, then an average of about 2000 hours will be obtained, instead of 6000 hours declared by the manufacturer.

The idea of ​​repairing fluorescent lamps arose when I came across another box with burned-out lamps that were planned to be disposed of. There are many substations, the volume of lamps is large, and burnt lamps accumulate regularly.

Let me remind you that fluorescent lamps contain mercury, so it is not permissible to throw them away with household waste.

To begin with, I will give the main characteristics of the repaired lamp Sylvania Mini-Lynx Economy:

• power 20 (W)
• socle E27
• mains voltage 220-240 (V)
• lamp type - 3U
• luminous flux 1100 (lm)

Do-it-yourself energy-saving lamp repair

Using a flat screwdriver with a wide sting, you need to carefully unfasten the housing latches at the junction of its two halves. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the groove and turn it in one direction or another to snap off the first latch.

As soon as the first latch opens, we continue to open the rest along the perimeter of the case.

Be careful, otherwise, when disassembling, you can chip the lamp body or, God forbid, break the flask itself, then you will have to because of the presence of mercury vapor in the flask.

The compact fluorescent lamp consists of three parts:

• 3 U-shaped arc flasks
• electronic board (electronic ballast)
• socle E27

The round printed circuit board is the board of the electronic ballast (electronic ballast), or in other words, the electronic ballast. The operating frequency of the electronic ballast is from 10 to 60 (kHz). In this regard, the stroboscopic effect of “blinking” is eliminated (the pulsation coefficient of the lamps is significantly reduced), which is present in fluorescent lamps assembled on electromagnetic control gear (based on a choke and starter) and operating at a mains frequency of 50 (Hz).

By the way, soon they will bring me a device for measuring the ripple coefficient. Let's measure and compare the ripple coefficients of an incandescent lamp, a fluorescent lamp with electronic ballast and ballast, and an LED lamp.

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The power wires from the base are very short, so do not pull sharply, otherwise you can tear them off.

First of all, you need to check the integrity of the filaments. There are two of them in this energy-saving lamp. They are marked on the board as A1-A2 and B1-B2. Their conclusions are wound on wire pins in several turns without the use of soldering.

Using a multimeter, check the resistance of each thread.

Thread A1-A2.

Filament A1-A2 is broken.

Thread B1-B2.

The second thread B1-B2 has a resistance of 9 (Ohm).

In principle, a burnt filament can be identified visually by the darkened areas of the glass on the flask. But still, you can’t do without measuring the resistance.

A burned-out filament A1-A2 can be shunted with a resistor with a rating similar to a working filament, i.e. about 9-10 (Ohm). I will install a resistor with a resistance of 10 (Ohm) with a power of 1 (Watt). This is enough.

I solder the resistor on the reverse side of the board to terminals A1-A2. Here's what happened.

Between the resistor and the board, you need to install a gasket (it is not yet in the photo). Now you need to check the lamp for operability.

The lamp is on. Now you can assemble the case and continue to operate it.

With such a repair, the start of the fluorescent lamp will occur with some flickering (about 2-3 seconds) - see the video for confirmation of this.

Faults encountered when repairing lamps

If the filaments in the lamp are working, then you can proceed to troubleshooting the electronic board (electronic ballast). Visually assess its condition for the presence mechanical damage, chips, cracks, burnt elements, etc. Also, do not forget to check the quality of soldering - this is a Chinese product.

In my example, the board looks clean, no cracks, chips, or burnt elements are observed.

Here is the most common electronic ballast circuit that is used in most compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). Each manufacturer has its own slight differences (scatter in the parameters of the circuit elements depending on the lamp power), but general principle schema remains the same.

Can fail the following items fees:

• limiting resistor
• diode bridge
• smoothing capacitor
• transistors, resistors and diodes
• high voltage capacitor
• dinistor

Now let's talk about each element in more detail.

1. Limiting resistor

The circuit shows the FU fuse, but often it is simply missing, as in my example.

Its role is played by the input limiting resistor. If any malfunction occurs in the lamp (short current or overload), the current in the circuit increases and the resistor burns out, thereby breaking the power circuit. The resistor is seated in a heat shrink tube. One of its output is connected to the threaded contact of the base, and the second - to the board.

I decided to check this resistor - it turned out to be intact, which means we can conclude that there was no short circuit in the circuit - there was simply a break in the A1-A2 thread. The resistance of the resistor is 6.3 (Ohm).

If your resistor “does not ring”, then in any case you need to look for the reasons why it burned out (see later in the text). With a burnt resistor, the lamp will not light.

2. Diode bridge

The diode bridge VD1-VD4 is used to rectify the mains voltage of 220 (V). It is made on 4 diodes of the brand 1N4007 HWD.

If the diodes are “broken”, then, accordingly, we replace them. When the diodes break down, the limiting resistor, as a rule, also burns out, and the lamp stops burning.

The electrolytic capacitor C1 smooths out the ripple of the rectified voltage. Very often it fails (loses capacity and swells), especially in Chinese lamps, so it will not be superfluous to check it. If it malfunctions, the lamp turns on poorly and buzzes.

It is green in the photo. It has a capacity of 4.7 (uF) with a voltage of 400 (V).

4. Transistors, resistors and diodes

A high-frequency generator (pulse converter) is assembled on two transistors VT3 and VT4. As transistors, high-voltage silicon transistors of the MJE13003 and MJE13001 series are used. For my 20-watt lamp, two transistors of the MJE13003 TO-126 series are installed.

To test transistors, they need to be soldered from the circuit, because. diodes, resistors and low-resistance windings of a toroidal transformer are connected between their junctions, which will be falsely reflected when measured with a multimeter. Resistors R3 and R4 often fail in the transistor base circuit - their value is about 20-22 (Ohm).

5. High voltage capacitor

If the lamp flickers strongly or glows in the area of ​​​​the electrodes, then most likely the reason for this is the breakdown of the high-voltage capacitor C5 connected between the filaments. This capacitor creates a high voltage pulse for the appearance of a discharge in the bulb. And if it is broken, then the lamp will not light up, and a glow will be observed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe electrodes due to the heating of the spirals (filaments). By the way, this is one of the most common problems.

My lamp has a B472J 1200 (V) capacitor. If it fails, then it can be replaced with a capacitor with a higher voltage, for example, 3.9 (nF) 2000 (V).

6. Dinistor

The VS1 dinistor (according to the DB3 scheme) looks like a miniature diode.

When the voltage between the anode and cathode reaches about 30 (V), it opens. Using a multimeter, it is not possible to check the dinistor, only its integrity - it should not “ring” in any direction. It fails much less frequently than the previous elements. Low-power lamps usually do not have a dinistor.

7. Toroidal transformer

Toroidal transformer T1 has an annular magnetic circuit, on which 3 windings are wound. The number of turns of each winding is in the range from 2 to 10. It practically does not fail.

I would like to note that the Sylvania lamp has a cold start, because. she does not have a PTC posistor (thermistor with a positive coefficient) in the circuit.

This means that when the lamp is turned on, current is supplied to the cold filaments (spirals), which negatively affects their service life, because. they do not preheat and burn out during a cold start from a current surge (similarly to incandescent lamps). But in our country, one of the filaments (A1-A2) just burned out and this is good to that confirmation.

With the RTS posistor installed, the current passes in series through the RTS posistor and the filaments, thereby smoothly heating them up. Then the resistance of the RTS posistor increases, ceasing to shunt the lamp, which leads to a voltage resonance on the capacitor C5 and the lamp electrodes. High voltage pierces the gas in the flask and the lamp ignites. This is called a hot start of the lamp, which has a positive effect on the life of the filaments.

Why do the electronic components of the board fail?

In fact, there may be several reasons: the use of defective elements, poor workmanship, improper operation (frequent switching on, low or high temperature). As you can see, among the failed lamps there are both Chinese manufacturers and well-known branded ones, such as Osram and Philips. Here, who cares.

If two filaments burned out at once, and the electronic ballast board remained intact, then it can be used to power a conventional tubular fluorescent lamp, thereby getting rid of the choke circuit with a starter, and reducing its ripple factor.

P.S. Dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes site, which of you have experience in repairing energy-saving lamps, I will be glad if you share your observations in the comments. Thank you for your attention.

95 comments on the entry “Do-it-yourself repair of an energy-saving Sylvania lamp with a power of 20 (W)”

“If you have two filaments burnt out at once, and the electronic ballast board remains intact, then it can be used to power a conventional tubular fluorescent lamp, thereby getting rid of the choke circuit with a starter, and reducing its ripple coefficient.”

Is reverse substitution allowed? That is, connect the bulb of the CFL lamp to the electronic ballast for a conventional tubular LL.

Reverse substitution is excluded.

Admin, why do filaments or controls burn out, are these miscalculations in the circuit or was it specially made by the manufacturer? I saw YouTube videos about "planned" aging, is this true?

Alexey, I don’t believe about planned aging. At the end of the article, I indicated the real reasons why the lamps fail.

Dmitry, in the photo, the toroidal tr-r, it seems, is not correctly indicated.
And one more question: can ordinary tubular LLs (at 20 and 40 (W)) also be “treated” with a resistor when the thread breaks? Thank you.

Where were you before?
I regularly restore CFL. He repaired electronic boards, but did not think of shunting the burnt spiral with a resistor.
I recently handed over a whole bag of flasks for recycling. Now I will try to solder the resistor.
Thanks for the advice!

You won’t believe it, but when I read about opening the case, one of these same lamps went out. As ordered))

Good evening. Interested in such a question, the MLT-1 resistor with a resistance of 10 (Ohm), Soviet-made? Or Russian? If the first option, where do such reserves come from?)

The article is useful only on the scale of an apartment, and only for tight-fisted owners))) I see no reason to do SO in production, especially state-owned. No one will give a medal 100%. And the article is very useful, thanks for the work!

Dmitry, your article about the repair of CFLs interested you. I got down to business at night looking (there was one lying around), did everything according to the instructions. The only thing, instead of 12 ohms (resistance of the whole thread), I soldered a 15 ohm shunt (which was found). Lamp WORKED! Well, I guess you can go to sleep with a sense of accomplishment. However, after a short lamp operation, I noticed that the bulb heats up very much (like LN). Why??? After all, this should not be. Is it the fault of the wrongly selected resistance or is it the very principle of the SHUNTA? Has something similar happened in your experience?

But what about improving ventilation by drilling the case?

Andrey, you are right, a Soviet-made resistor. Stocks have been preserved since the same time. Resistors and other semiconductor elements were purchased for the instrument repair group, which used to be part of our electrical laboratory. Now the group has been transferred to another unit, but the stocks remain.

Monsieur Serge, I repair them not for the sake of a medal, but solely for the sake of experience.

Anton, try replacing the resistor with 9-10 (Ohm) and repeat the experiment. My lamp doesn't get hotter than usual.

elalex, I did not drill holes for cooling on this instance, although it would not be bad.

Dmitry, maybe my question will seem silly to you, but still: The filament burned out, we are installing a shunt - due to what is the lamp ignited ??? After all, the thread remained in the flask burned out ???

I have a problem with the 18 X 4 epra. Replacing the epra is a painful task, the wiring diagram does not match the original, each time you have to remove the lamp and make new wiring for the new epra. Is it possible to repair a burnt epra?

Can you post a printable version?

The article is good, but only for those who are friends with electronics. For people far from such things, it will be easier to buy a new one than to look for a specialist to repair it. I don't think repairs will be cheaper than buying a new lamp.
Purely my opinion.

Thanks for the article, Dmitry. As always, everything is thoroughly disassembled, you can’t write better. For me, an innovation is shunting a burnt thread.

Thanks again!

I think that before you measure the resistance of the filaments and determine their integrity, you need to disconnect them from the circuit. Or am I wrong?

Sergey, not necessarily, there are no bypass chains.

Anton (for 10/16/14): Due to the 2nd filament - it emits electrons, and the soldered shunt resistance restores the circuit, which should work before the lamp is ignited (before the breakdown of the gas gap). After the lamp is ignited, this chain will not be needed. See the diagram in the article. An analogue of this chain in conventional tubular lamps daylight — electrical circuit, in which the starter is located (after the lamp is ignited, the starter is shunted by a circuit through the lamp itself, the resistance of which becomes small).

Dmitry, thanks for the article! I have a similar lamp with electronic ballast. The problem is this. Just yesterday, when the lamp was working, there was a small explosion. I got to the board, found, in the end, that the resistors R3 and R4 in the transistor base circuit (according to your scheme) - their value turned out to be somewhere around 7 ohms (judging by the colored circles) are faulty. Soldered, replaced with serviceable ones - when turned on again, a microexplosion - (
At the same time, I checked all the elements with the tester, and the capacitances of the capacitors, I did not find any deviations, about 300V comes to the capacitor C1. I don’t understand what the problem is, can you tell me what is the root cause of the failure of these resistances?

Thank you for the article. I restored two lamps))) In one, the contact on the spiral was soldered, in the other, the high-voltage capacitor was replaced.
On the way three more with broken threads. It remains to find resistors.

Andrei: Have you checked the transistors themselves? Often, due to overheating / not to bad design - I think everything is done this way on purpose in order to increase the supply of this rubbish / the transistors themselves or the rectifiers short out. In transistors, the emitter junction dies first, and from there ... Although there were things, / everything seems to be OK, but they don’t plow / in which the current transfer coefficient, well, just died. Yes, it floated, somewhere below 5 and even 3 units. Again, due to overheating. I “drilled” the cases with a soldering iron tip from the sides / while the case was disassembled /. Everything is fine. Another thing: The lamps burn longer with the base down, because the heat from the tubes heats the box when it is on top. Fact. Put them, it is better that they stand, and not that they “hang”. In addition, it is necessary from time to time to blow off dust and fried moths from /insufficient/ central holes on the cover of the case, which is from the side of the tubes. Clog the holes, and 3.14zdets convective cooling PPP. Those are already stretched well, up to their ears and without glasses. Further: it is better if you put a resistor in place of the burnt thread, then, before that, combine its two wires, breaking the track before / or after / the pin where we put the resistor. Emission improves, because the halves of the thread already plow at the same potentials.
Those. should plow. And we'll see there.

Installed a 10 ohm resistor. Combined 2 wires. When connected to one of the terminals of the resistor, it lit up. The end of the flask is heated, where the broken spiral is. The plastic melts.

Admin, probably a stupid question, but why is the resistance 1W? There is a lamp for 11W Ecolight. I checked the coils, one is dead, the second is 12.3 ohms. There is a resistance of 12 Ohm / 0.25W. Can I install it and what can happen in my case, I would not want to start a fire when I first repair the lamps??? Read about Ohm's law. The power of the resistance can be calculated, but I only know the resistance of the resistor. And what voltage is applied to the filaments or what current flows through them?

Everything is fine, but about shunting a burnt thread is frankly bad advice, it can end in a depressurization of the bulb, an electronic ballast, or even a fire. Filaments in fluorescent lamps, as a rule, do not burn out just like that, an emitter paste is sprayed from them during operation (which is clearly seen by the appearance of a characteristic “soot” on the lamp bulb near the filament), and since. pure metal has the worst emissivity, then the thread begins to heat up more, up to bright white heat and melting of the glass of the bulb along with the plastic of the base.

It is possible to shunt (a simple jumper is enough, the resistor is superfluous) the thread is possible only when the emission is normal, and for example, the thread was simply shaken off. And then such a lamp will be a time bomb. In fairness, the savings are all of them, because the electronic ballasts have no protection (the fuse does not count, and there are instances where it is not) in general! He will thresh what is called to the bitter end. This fully applies to the simplest Chinese electronic ballasts for linear lamps, in fact, their circuit is one to one. The proprietary electronic ballast will simply turn off.

And here it should be noted that “thick” lamps, compared to compact flasks, have completely different operating parameters (lower voltage, but more current) and therefore it is not entirely correct to connect them to electronic ballasts from CFLs. The lamp will be underloaded (and since the filaments during operation are heated directly by the discharge current, then if the filaments are underloaded, the emitter will be intensively sprayed from them, because they are designed for a certain operating temperature, which is achieved at rated current, and as a result, the lamp will die faster), and the ballast itself will be overloaded. Therefore, you can only connect lamps that are similar in total length / diameter of the lamp tube. And it would be nice to measure the actual power consumption of the resulting “centaur”, which, in the absence of the necessary devices, is easiest to do by powering the electronic ballast from direct current (a network rectifier with a sufficient filter capacity, which is included in a computer power supply unit, for example). It is more convenient to measure the current consumption indirectly, without breaking the circuit, by connecting the electronic ballast to the rectifier through a low-resistance resistor with a known resistance.

By the way, when repairing electronic ballasts, it is highly desirable to make the first switch-on through a light bulb, if something is wrong, and there is a short stack in the circuit, then there will be no “microexplosion”, but only the light bulb will light up. The power of a light bulb of 60-75 watts, or even 40, is quite enough. The principle here is the following - it is better to start with a lower power, and if the electronic ballast as a whole behaves adequately, then you can try with a larger light bulb power, and then directly to the network.

And it is also useful to increase the filter capacitor, at the rate of 1 uF per 1 W of electronic ballast power, or simply whatever one fits. Its mode is very difficult, the ripple range on it is under 100 V!

Admin, a reverse replacement (a CFL bulb to an electronic ballast of direct lamps) is allowed, since these are absolutely identical electronic ballasts, they only differ in the form of the board. By the way, if you adapt the bulb from CFL to the electronic ballast of ordinary direct lamps of the LB20 type and the like, then both the bulb and the electronic ballast will live much longer (In CFLs, the bad thing is that when the lamp is operated with the base up, the electronic ballast is SIMPLY FRIED from the heat of the bulb, and therefore fails

Edward, you can't do that! The modes of CFL flasks and direct lamps are different, which I actually mentioned above. In this case, we will overload the "thin" tube of the flask, it will live brightly, but not for long.

But about the operation of the base up - I agree.

I repaired a 55 W CFL, instead of a standard EPR, I installed 30 W from a lamp, I just replaced the transistors with more powerful s13007 and a 47 microfarad filter capacitor. Works more than half a year and to this day. The decrease in brightness is not noticeable. At work, I'm tired of buzzing lamps 2x36 watts. I had epra from 105 watts with a 6U bulb. I redid 3 lamps - they have been working perfectly for two years now. Changed 2 or 3 lamps in all the time due to a break in the glow.

Thank you for the article.
In the paragraph where it is said about the transformer, in the picture the arrow indicates the throttle. The transformer is located behind it, wound on a ferite ring.

Thank you for the article. I encountered the fact that when the lamp in the room is turned off, it starts blinking with a period of 5-10 seconds, what could it be. The lamp is new.

Were handed over for recycling more than 20 lamps 30-55 watts. Began to understand. The reason for the failure is the same for everyone, the electronic ballast burned out, the filaments are intact. It can be seen standing in hermetically sealed lamps, hence the overheating. Regarding the use of electronic ballasts with tubular lamps of 18 watts, 2.5 years the flight is normal, provided that electronic ballasts are used from an 18 watt saving lamp. I set it from a more powerful 20-26 watts for half a year and the spiral burns out on a tubular lamp. I also use serviceable electronic ballasts as an electronic transformer with a 12 volt stabilizer for LEDs and LED strip
2 years, no complaints so far. I just had to fix the radiators on the transistors. I also use restored lamps with different bulbs and electronic ballasts, but of the same power, they have been working for 3-4 years. I will try to light lamps with a shunt, I tried without a shunt, they heat up.

Thank you, you were right, now I let the phase through the switch, the lamp stopped blinking, but some kind of flashes pass through it. This is probably due to Low quality the lamp itself, as you already wrote.

I soldered the resistor, the lamp shone for about five minutes, farted and went out, it was hot. I think it does not take into account the resistance of the cold and hot spiral. When the spirals heat up, their resistance grows, and the resistor, as it was 10 ohms, remained. Maybe this method is not suitable for low-powered ones, or you need to play with the resistance of the resistor. Lamp 11 W.

I’ll try to make a modest contribution to the topic)) the reason for at least 8 out of 10 malfunctions in the electronic ballast circuit is a breakdown of the high-voltage capacitor in the ignition circuit (the one for 1kV) I tried to fix faulty CFLs - almost everyone came to life after replacing it.

The mains voltage in my house is 259V, CFLs burn out from overheating. Can I try to convert them to overvoltage by unwinding the wire at the output of the step-up transformer of the electronic ballast?

Yaroslav 05/20/2015 at 16:13
And if the voltage is restored, will you wind up? And how do the other appliances of the apartment, probably also suffer?
In the first case, cut off 10-15V throughout the apartment with an autotransformer, continuously record the network voltage statistics, and then we'll see.

Yaroslav, contact the power supply - 259 (V) - this is the voltage value above the maximum permissible norm. Let them reduce, because this is a violation.

Thanks for the advice, but I live on a farm with 10 yards. The voltage has been at least 250V for many years, statements do not help. Is that to collect some sort of paper evidence and go to court. Each TV works through a separate stabilizer. The technique of the times of the Soviet Union is not afraid of such voltage, except for a vacuum cleaner - it burned out after a few minutes of operation, and in a city where the voltage was normal, it worked for many years. Incandescent bulbs are brighter and burn out faster. So I thought about the alteration of technology. As for winding, I don’t think it will be needed, since an underestimated voltage will not be as critical as an overestimated one. The modern radio has already been redesigned by adding a KREN142 stabilizer microcircuit to the circuit.

Find a powerful autotransformer and feed everything if you still have 250 all the time.

I see the topic is still relevant, so the question! Empirically, I myself tried to do these bypasses half a year ago. The lamp in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base is heated to a high temperature and, as a result, after a couple of hours of operation, the circuit burns out that it was not picked. I imagine purely theoretically that the lamps in ceiling lights tubes that (20,40,80) have the same principle as energy saving tubes. On the ceiling I assembled a circuit with a multiplier on 4 diodes and capacitances, it is used in the event of a break in the filaments, there are a lot of articles on the net. But won't this small tube explode from an energy-saving device if it is revived with a circuit on a multiplier? Who has tried???

Isn't it easier to buy (or assemble) a stabilizer? there are amateur simple stabilizer circuits just based on an autotransformer with electronic tap switching

I would like to see ... A transformer with four or five taps will be of little use, because. too “wide” will be the steps of adjusting the output, and even this must be able to wind, make bends, oh, it’s not so simple. There are circuits, it’s not a question, but it’s also necessary to tie everything to an autotransformer, find good, high-quality relays, create a circuit that does not allow short circuits of the tr-ra sections when moving from stage to stage and many times a day. Chesslovo, it's easier to find a good ready-made one.

Colleagues, I have about five working flasks and several different ballasts, all from 15-20W lamps. But I forgot how to connect the bulb threads to the ballast, because the last time I repaired it was 2 years ago. Does it matter which thread, so to speak, do they have “+” and “-” or does it matter where to fasten? And do the threads need to be screwed on or can they be soldered to the ballast?

Eugene, + and - no, you can screw it on as convenient, one pair to the left, the second to the right of the capacitor. The board should have matching pins.
I usually changed the pins to new ones, because. old in oxide.
In order not to damage the flask, I didn’t put much effort on the threads, so it’s not always possible to wind it up with high quality, especially on small boards. Therefore, in addition, I also soldered a little.

On the advice of the author, he repaired lamps by shunting a burned-out spiral with resistance. As a result, the lamp works for a maximum of 3 hours and burns out. I see no reason to poke around. Moreover, LED ones already cost less than 200 rubles, you need to switch to modern technologies. In general, the site is useful and necessary, thanks to the author for the work.

Unfortunately, shunting is fraught and more often the result will be negative. It is better to immediately put these in a box and then take them to a collection point.

In general, the previous one correctly noted - you need to go to LED: on AliExpress, "corn" 25 W for 130 rubles.

Moreover, unlike CFL, there is no danger that it will break.

And most importantly - a possible repair is an order of magnitude simpler: no RF generators - a simple decrease to the supply voltage of the garland.

And if the diode (dark dot) is dead, then write out a roll of SMD5730 (100 pcs) on Ali there for possible repair.

1- your corn is also sometimes fed through a more complex ballast than just a capacitor, and HF. there too.
2- degradation of crystals in simple power circuits is a traditional phenomenon, burnout is in cheap mass.
If we recall the conversation about LL and so on, then similarly, good LED lamps cannot be cheap.
3- Ali and so on. they will sell anything, but will the current-voltage characteristics of these diodes be close to your old ones?
4- there is no danger of breaking, but heating?

Hello, there is an error in the article. One of the photos shows not a toroidal transformer, but an output inductor. The transformer, as the name implies, has a ring-shaped core.

Artem, I have known what TOR is for a long time, but if this is written in the prospectus, then what should the layman do?

Good day!
I recently encountered such a problem. For some reason, the filaments of the lamp begin to overheat and fail. Those. places in the flask darken and the plastic in this place is already charred.
What could be the matter? If the capacitors shunting the flask are not broken and the RTS is normal.

In the picture *29.jpg, the torroidal transformer is incorrectly indicated.
The arrow points to the choke, and the transformer itself is partially visible
on the same picture.

The author of the article clearly showed how to disassemble and what can be obtained for reuse from an old energy-saving lamp. Thus, you can "return" part of the money paid for this lamp at the time. If it is possible to save the body with the base, then it can be used to make other lamps. Now it is fashionable to make LED lamps from improvised means with your own hands.

Burnt out energy saving lamp

Hi all,

Today I want to show you how you can make the most of that money you have invested in an energy saving lamp by extracting its useful parts after it has burned out.

Target:

The purpose of this Instructable is to show you the source of a free part you can use for your next project and reduce your electricity loss.

You can get these parts from energy saving lamps:

• Capacitors
• Diodes
• transistors
• Coils

Required tools:

• flathead screwdriver or saw/cutting tool
• desoldering pump
• soldering iron

Please read the following text for your own safety. I don't want people to get hurt so read on and please be careful.

readme file:

• Before starting, make sure the glass body of the energy-saving lamp is broken! If it is broken, you need to seal it in a bag or some sort of container to avoid exposure to the mercury inside the lamp.
• Be very careful not to damage the glass and the body of the luminaire! Do not try to open the bulb by turning the body glass or trying to break it or anything like that.
• Do not attempt to open the lamp immediately after it has burned out. It contains a high voltage capacitor, which must perform first! Do not touch the circuit board unless you know if the capacitor remains charged or you may get an electric shock!
• I think that best advice to dispose of burned out or broken energy-saving light bulbs, put them in a container (like a bucket with a lid or something like that) and store the container in a safe place until you find a place to recycle them.
• Please do not throw energy-saving lamps in the trash! Energy-saving lamps are environmentally hazardous and can harm people!

Step 2: Open the lamp housing


Dismantling an old energy-saving lamp

OK. Let's start. Let's look at things first. Most cases are either glued or fastened together. (Mine was cut together, as were most of the other lamps I still have open.)

You should be able to open the case by opening it with a screwdriver or by cutting it open with a saw.

In both cases, you must be careful not to damage the glass body! Be very careful.

Once you have opened the case, you just need to cut the wires leading into the glass case so that you can put it in a safe place to get rid of this danger.

Step 3: Remove PCB from case


Sometimes the body cannot be saved.
Energy-saving lamp driver board ready for soldering.

Now you need to remove the board from the case.

Be very careful not to touch the circuit board with bare hands! There is a high-voltage capacitor (a large electrolytic capacitor can be seen in the photo) on the board, which could still be! Try removing it from the circuit by cutting the legs and putting it in a safe place. (Make sure you don't touch with your feet!)

As soon as the high voltage capacitor is removed from the board there is nothing left to fear. Now you can start unsoldering all the useful elements.

Step 4: Unsolder All Useful Parts


Parts that have been soldered





Now take your soldering iron and your desoldering pump and spare parts.

As you can see in the picture there are a lot of useful parts on the PCB so you should be able to assemble a large number of useful items for your project :)

OK it's all over Now. I hope I have been able to provide you with some useful tips and I hope you enjoyed my Instructable :)


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Thanks, I'm not an electrician myself, but it was interesting. In my version, unfortunately, the flask ended = (Wolta 75w spiral

Vladimir.

These lamps are in demand as long as LEDs are still expensive.

Their repair is more for the sake of curiosity than profit. If it turned out to save money without throwing it away and not buying a new one, then this is just another additional plus.

Especially if you add up the cost of all the parts (if you buy them separately in a store), then the price is several times higher than the cost of a new lamp. Those. Not every repair of such financially profitable.

You're right about the repair, it's not worth it. But the board with the base is stored in a safe place and is waiting in the wings. But the diodes did not like. No, it's not about the price. About 3-4 months ago I bought a few pieces - a Chinese Ecomir and a pair of Philips. According to the subjective opinion, after spending the evenings under these analogues of "Ilyich's light bulb", I became noticeably more tired. One evening I dropped a box of matches and saw that the approach to the floor was accompanied by a stroboscopic effect. I decided that this was not good and screwed back the fluorescent ones.

LED lamps are very different (by the way, like gas ones).

Flicker is also different for different models. Unfortunately, the seller does not indicate this parameter, so you need to study independent tests or make your own.

If you have already bought it (and a good LED lamp is generally not cheap), then it just makes sense to try to upgrade it. But that's another story...

about the set-diode lamps, I found my know-how on how to choose a normal lamp without flickering in the store. By the way, flickering-pulsation indicates that the lamp uses the simplest power supply circuit for LEDs - through a diode bridge and a capacitor, i.e. without any electronic drivers. so. it’s very easy to decide on a lamp in a store. now, in almost every mobile phone, with the exception of the simplest dialers, there is a camera. , a kind of vest. Do not take such a lamp! By the way, among unknown Chinese brands there are decent lamps without pulsation, and how many types of maxus I have seen, all frank junk.

Good way. :)

Although in such testing the result will probably be affected by the frame rate in the camera, but for a rough estimate it is normal.

If the filament burns out, then the broken capacitor is to blame (1. Failure of the power capacitor (capacity is usually 47 nF). One of the lamp leads is connected through it). If you replace it and put a resistance of 10 ohms on the terminals of a burned-out filament, the lamp will last for a very long time (do not disconnect the terminals of the filament from the board). If the capacitor is not replaced, the lamp will last 5-10 minutes. (then a loud explosion of the capacitor and transistor).

Thanks for the info, I haven't come across this yet.

The transformer failed on several lamps. Due to overheating, the insulation became unusable and the awl through the ferrite. It is treated by rewinding a wire with a close cross-section with normal insulation.

PS. The lamps were DeLux.

Yuri. Interestingly, this is already quite exotic. Never even heard of such a problem in these lamps.

If I get caught, I'll take a photo or even a video of the breakdown. Sincerely.

I met a woman-grandmother, she sells light bulbs in the market, buyers regularly bring burnt ones as an example and leave them with the saleswoman, she then throws them away, I asked if it was possible to buy such damaged energy savings from her for 5 rubles, but she said - nonsense, they I don’t need them, I throw them away and get them for free, so I’ll give them to you too for free, for a year I have accumulated three full bags of different powers and firms of such light bulbs, repaired a few, until my hands reach others, .. I think if you come up with a small high-voltage electronic device Tesla coil type (so that the field spreads within this bulb) in the field of which gas glows in energy-saving bulbs, you can organize lighting without the help of filaments in bulbs! ...

I also like LED bulbs, but they are still a little expensive ...

Alexander

Interesting idea. You just need to figure out what is happening with the gas inside the flasks.

To begin with, the transformer has a common transformer and electronics of the energy -saucers and the starting device of the daylight of the Soviet era - they all have a glow of the phosphorus, gas in the flasks, I think external electrodes are located next to the flask and sending a high -high current in them VOLTAGE AND MODERATELY HIGH FREQUENCY ... AND FURTHER NEED TO THINK AND EXPERIMENT)))

"E-27 energy-saving lamp, filaments are working. When the lamp is turned on, it burns at half heat. What is the reason that needs to be replaced in the circuit?

I would check the thermistor first. Try how it will work if you just unsolder it.

Is it possible to start the Soviet 80w with a handkerchief from a 20w bulb (increasing the power of transistors and picking up other elements) beard throttles and starters destroy the lamp faster.

Unfortunately, I did not come across Soviet ones, so I can’t answer this question.

Dear Dummy Luck! Why did they stop making videos? Your videos are one of the most interesting and informative, because you take on everything according to your mind, and not just according to a well-established scheme. Slowly, surely and clearly, explaining each step, for me - this is the most correct approach.

I can say this about light bulbs, for me personally, filaments burn out until not a single electronics burns out (only what I myself burned for experimental purposes). One thread fails.

Answering BobrOff, I can say that it is very difficult to choose a resistor for a burnt filament, because when heated, the filament has a completely different resistance. And it’s not from the capacitor that the filament burns out, because if you change it to another bulb, the lamp lasts for a very long time. It burns out, most likely from quality and plus, practically, they stopped installing thermistors.

I myself encountered this problem, soldered the entire board - the whole problem turned out to be in the conder between the filament.

Thank you. Now a snag with time, but I think I will continue soon.

Hello everyone, after seeing enough advice, I also decided to bring the burned-out CFL back to life by soldering a resistor in parallel to the burnt thread ... Not a single lamp has lived for more than a week. This time, in principle, is enough to go to the store for a new lamp. But after reading quite a few forums, I saw in the form of bypassing both threads at once with an ordinary wire. I tried it and, surprisingly, the lamp in my corridor has been shining for about three months. This method is suitable if the thread is broken on only one side, and if the thread is broken completely and only two whiskers stick out in the flask, then after such or similar repair, the lamp will work for 3-5 days at most until the electrodes burn out ... If on a new lamp, shunt the filaments with a jumper, then such a lamp will last much longer than in the usual version. I draw your attention to the fact that the lamp after this WILL NOT BE ETERNAL!!! As many promise.

The principle of ignition of a CFL lamp is something like this:

After switching on, the resistance of an unlit lamp is high and a high-voltage capacitor is connected in series with the inductor through the filaments of the lamp. As a result of resonance, the voltage at the output of the converter rises sharply, the lamp lights up and its resistance decreases sharply, thereby shunting the high-voltage capacitor. The resonance disappears, the voltage drops to 350 volts, which is quite enough for the lamp to burn steadily. It is noticeable so, you can read more in the same Wikipedia ....

So, when we put two jumpers, we connect this capacitor in parallel with the lamp and all processes occur in the same way as a regular switch-on. When the lamp is started, the resistance of an unlit lamp is high and the capacitor is connected in series with the inductor. There is a resonance, the voltage rises, the lamp lights up and its resistance decreases, which shunts the capacitor .... Etc. ....

I made a short video, but since I don’t have a tripod and there’s no one to hold the camera, I took a photo and then edited it in a video editor, but I shot the work of the lamp myself and also added it to the review ...

I heard a lot of complaints from sofa specialists in the field of electronic design about the imperfection and inexpediency of this resuscitation of cll lamps ...

I do not pretend to anything and do not promise that the lamp will become ETERNAL - this upgrade option simply extends for some time (a week - a month - a year - ...) the service life of an already burned-out lamp that has already worked out its own and had to be disposed of.

And do not forget about safety measures, you can get under the influence of electric current and get an electrical injury!!!

All work on reworking the CFL lamp must be done with a 100 W incandescent lamp included in the break in the mains wire. This will save you from a loud BOOM and knocked out traffic jams in case of an error ...

There is a 7W fluorescent energy-saving lamp (almost the same as in the video).

It seems to be working, but not correctly. (incorrect operation was tested on 2 cartridges, so cartridge failure can be ruled out)

During operation, it burns normally for 5 seconds, then for 1 second the brightness decreases slightly (by 20-30%), and so on in a circle (i.e. 5-1-5-1-5-1-5-1).

At the same time, the lamp is VERY hot (after 10 minutes of operation, a strong smell of plastic).

Before the malfunction, the lamp worked normally ~ 6500 hours (it shone well and almost did not heat up)

Are there any ideas how to fix this?

I would first try to solder the thermistor and see how the lamp behaves.

"In the future, it makes sense to consider the possibility of igniting the lamp with a high-voltage field - in general, with burnt filaments"

You don’t forget to think with your head about the expediency of any "collective farming" - it is often cheaper to buy a new flask than to sculpt a voltage quadrupler from expensive high-voltage capacitors for a cold start without filaments ...

And even more so it concerns the ideas of gas ionization in the flask by an external EM field - this will bury all the economy of the "housekeepers" - the efficiency of such lamps is low.

35W energy saving lamp. The luminophor has darkened, is badly worn out. The filaments of the lamp are intact - perhaps due to the diodes standing in parallel. Malfunction - breakdown of one MJE13003 transistor, probably due to overheating.

Transistors are replaced with MJE13007 in TO220 packages, which have more power and better heat dissipation.




A 30 ohm NTC thermistor is installed in series with the filaments. Why this is needed is described in a separate article on the modernization of energy-saving light bulbs.




Ventilation holes are drilled in the lamp base for a softer temperature regime of electronic ballasts.



A few more photos:



Broken lamp.
The lamp has transistors in TO92 packages, which is quite unusual for a power of 20W.


Ventilation openings in the plinth.
To facilitate the thermal operation of electronic ballasts, ventilation holes are drilled.


Converted lamp. The arrow shows the installed thermistor.
The thermistor is installed in the break of the lamp filament circuit in a convenient place, which depends on the design of the particular lamp. The resistance of the thermistor shown in the photo is 30 ohms. When the lamp is turned on, the thermistor is cold and its resistance limits the current flowing through this circuit. After a few seconds, the thermistor heats up and its resistance decreases, no longer affecting the current in the circuit. Thus, a more gentle lamp ignition mode is provided.
Note that bulb filament leads may be brittle. Disconnect them from the electronic ballast and clean carefully before tinning.

Vitaliy's upgrade tips:

The power of this lamp is 26 watts. I want to draw your attention to the features of this circuit - these are two 10 ohm and two 2.2 ohm resistances, which are very important in this circuit. A capacitance of 47 microfarads 400 volts is also very important! The most important thing is that the startup capacitors are 6800 nF 630 volts two - connect in series (GREEN). All ballast circuits are basically the same, in any circuits find two pairs of identical resistors, I indicated 10 and 2.2 Ohms on the diagram - change to these values, the lamps undergo such an upgrade - 13-32 watts 220 volts. Do not forget to put diodes to transistors to E and K, on ​​the contrary, to the current, as in the line scan of any TV. The temperature inside the circuit reached up to 80 degrees Celsius, the lamp has been working for me for about 4 years. It's not a joke! I recently looked at my circuit - I will say one thing - because of the temperature, all parts are black and have been working for 4 years. An example of an error - out of 100 pieces, 10 lamps are unusable, the reason is depressurization of the bulb (glass), air ingress. Try it, experiment - the result is good.

U.P. 15.10.2012
Another broken lamp (23W), and previously upgraded. The filaments are intact, which means the NTC thermistor protected them throughout the entire time the lamp was on. One rectifier diode burned out and one transistor in the open. Several tracks burned out.



The tracks were replaced with wires, the diode was replaced with a new one (1N4007).



Transistors HLB123T are replaced by HLB124E. In the photo above, new transistors are already installed in the lamp, the old ones are nearby.

The transistor housing and pinout are different, this must be taken into account when making such replacements.



After the repair, the lamp worked again.

U.P. 4.2.2013
After the repair, the lamp worked for 4 months and broke again with pop and smoke. The fault turned out to be similar - several rectifier diodes were broken, the input resistor burned out the track and another resistor in the emitter of the transistor. It looks like an increased current when turned on, which led to suspicions on the electrolytic capacitor after the rectifier, although it is in good condition according to the device. The transistors were not damaged, the lamp filaments were intact, so it was decided to repair it. Replaced diodes, resistors, burnt track restored. Just in case, the electrolytic capacitor was replaced.



In the photo next to the lamp are replaced parts. After repair, the lamp lit up.



The following photo shows the lamp before assembly. The 33 Ohm NTC thermistor is clearly visible, designed to save cold filaments from current surges when turned on.





Do you want to read more about the schemes with your own hands? Here's what's trending this week:
Regulated power supply from the power supply ATX computer
Power supply for a cordless screwdriver from a 220 volt network
Schemes and printed circuit boards power supplies based on UC3842 and UC3843 chips
Leopold approves.

Have questions, comments? Write:




Drilling holes is not just necessary, but necessary, because. the ballast is heated by the hot bulb.




Dear experts! Recently, the question arose: what kind of beast is a ring with 3 windings and what does it affect? Sozhete is a primitive. Be right. But if you carefully look at the circuit of the computer power supply, we will see the similarity in the circuits of the final stage, only the matching phase shifter is wound on a w-shaped transformer. Hm. Who has any ideas? Yep, what do we need? We need to get high-slope rectangular pulses and a cooling pad for the key, such as a delay. So what? So this ring is designed to increase the steepness due to the impulse in the magnetic circuit and generates a delay when the core is saturated. Someone spoke about the frequency... So the generation frequency depends on this trance too. If everything is correct - you do not need to drill holes - the keys will be cold. The manufacturer is not a stupid shoemaker! And more: than more load- the lamp current, the higher the oscillation frequency. It's so on the way. Do not try to regulate the frequency with capacitors, it depends on the load, and the load is the inductor and the lamp itself, and of course the parameters of the transformer. When you understand how this ring with 3 windings works, the world will become easier! All dashing improvements! And remember: manufacturers are not worse than radio amateurs, this is an axiom.




Now answer a couple of questions:
1. How long will the converted lamp work?
2. Will the ballast survive after the electrodes evaporate?
3. Does the 1N4007 work well at ballast frequency?




Attention! The most important comment! Be sure to read! Any lamp is reanimated!
We bring the board to working condition (you can strengthen the transistors and add a self-healing fuse), add a diode bridge at the output (from 1n40007 - it will work) - all the lamps light up (even with burnt out spirals). Spiral contacts can be twisted in pairs.
In this method, electron emission is not needed to light the lamps: the constant accelerates the gas ions by itself.
Only some schemes require a selection of ballast (placed in front of the bridge).

Today, manufacturers of lamps with energy-saving parameters leave no choice at all to ordinary consumers who choose between incandescent lamps and ESL. The choice in favor of the latter is obvious. Now there are almost no apartments or houses left, wherever energy-saving lamps were installed. And that's not to mention office or industrial premises. ESL can save up to ninety percent of electricity per year. Many of us are interested in the question - is it possible to repair energy-saving lamps with our own hands.

Repair of energy-saving lamps or how to assemble one lamp from two

In most cases, manufacturers indicate 8000 hours of continuous operation in terms of operation. But practice shows that most often light bulbs do not produce the specified period. And this becomes a rather unpleasant surprise, since they are not cheap.

But this shouldn't be a huge disappointment, as energy-saving light bulbs turn out to be pretty easy to fix. It is not necessary, because from several non-working ones you can make one working one.

Is it worth starting a renovation?

First you need to find out whether it is worth it to start repairing a burned-out light bulb and whether it will be justified. Many experts say that it all depends on how many lamps you want to fix. If we are talking about one light bulb, then it is better not to take it at all. The only exception is when you have several non-working bulbs, which will become the basis for one working one.

Such a light bulb, like any other, should also be distinguished by the period of work. If your lamp stopped shining after a year and a half, and its life is 10,000 hours, then it may be cheaper. After all, you have to spend money on spare parts, travel, and also lose your own time.

After prolonged use, ESLs lose their ability to turn on quickly. They work a couple of seconds after switching on. You also need to consider that old light bulbs eventually begin to produce more heat than light. Another significant drawback of old light bulbs is the wear of the fluorescent bulb, which fades over time and the lamp becomes not as bright as it was.

To summarize all of the above, you should start repairing light bulbs only when you have a few non-working ones on hand. Practice confirms that approximately 5 lamps can be made out of twenty. If you still decide, then ask your friends or relatives - they will surely help you with old light bulbs.

How to assemble one lamp from two

To understand what and how to repair, first let's dwell on what it is made of. Any gas-discharge fluorescent lamp consists of three parts:

• flasks;
• electronic board (ballast);
• plinth.

If defects appear on the bulb of your idle lamp (in the form of cracks, for example), then it can no longer be repaired. In other cases, having the desire and skills, you can fix it.

Most often, the lamps stop working due to the fact that the filaments burn out or as a result of a breakdown. electronic board. Before repairing, the lamp must be disassembled and the cause of the breakdown must be identified. To do this, you need to take some steps.

The first step is to disconnect the base from the burnt bulb. As mounts, the same ones are installed as in the cases of mobile phones or remote controls. Therefore, be extremely careful. The best tool here will be a screwdriver with a wide and thin end. Your main task is not to break the base completely.

The connecting wires are usually short, so do not disconnect them too abruptly. In most cases, the first latch is the one located under the inscriptions with the characteristics of the light bulb. In this place it is necessary to insert a screwdriver and gradually turn it. After that, the lamp should decompose into two parts.




The second stage will be the process of disconnecting the wires from the filaments. There are two pairs of conductors in the flask - they are the filaments. If you do not disable them, you will not be able to determine the health. It shouldn't be too hard for you to detach them, since in most cases they are not soldered, but simply wound on top.

The third stage of disassembly and testing will be the diagnosis of filaments. To do this, you need to ring two threads. This will allow you to understand which one is out of order. In most cases, the lamp consists of two spirals, which have a resistance of 10 to 15 ohms. Based on the results of the call, you can find the cause of the breakdown. There are two options here:

• damaged ballast;
• one of the filaments burned out (a lamp with a damaged coil).




Depending on the type of damage, you have to perform various manipulations. Let's consider both of these options.

Repair of system components

Restoring a lamp after a failure of the electronic ballast involves identifying all burned-out elements, as well as those that are still usable. After disassembling the light bulb, inspect the board for visible external defects from all sides. Also inspect each of its components. If during the inspection you did not find any visible defects, then proceed to testing its main modules, namely:

• limiting resistor;
• diode bridge;
• filter capacitor;
• high voltage capacitor.

The fuse is installed in the light bulb by soldering to the contact on the base. It is already attached in a heat-shrinkable material. Most often, he suffers after a short circuit, after which the entire circuit breaks. When the fuse rings, a resistance of 10 ohms is considered normal, and infinity is considered abnormal. Note that when cutting wires after a fuse has blown, do it as close to the fuse as possible. This will give you a spare wire to solder a new resistor.

The main function of the diode bridge is to rectify the voltage of 220 V. It is based on four diodes. You can call them on the spot, it does not require soldering them.

The filter capacitor breaks first of all in lamps that are made in China. It serves to rectify the voltage. The burnout of this element is initially accompanied by unstable operation of an energy-saving light bulb - it emits extraneous sounds, does not immediately turn on, and so on. After failure, you may notice external defects: swelling, darkening, streaks, and so on.

The high-voltage capacitor is designed to create a pulse, which, in turn, creates a discharge in the bulb itself. The failure of this particular element is the cause of most breakdowns of energy-saving lamps. You will be able to determine the malfunction without calling. The lamp will not light up, and the filaments will create a glow near the electrodes.

When you check the main modules of the board, move on to the additional ones: transistors, resistors and diodes. It should be noted that with soldered transistors, you will get incorrect multimeter readings, so they must first be desoldered. Also note that one detected failure does not exclude the possibility of another, so you will have to check all the elements.

But there is a method that will allow you to avoid soldering transistors. You just need to measure the resistance of the elements on the working board and compare them with the non-working ones.

Spiral repair

Often, light bulbs stop working for other reasons - failure of filaments or circuits. A hint here will be a darkening in the place of the burnt spiral. To check, measure their resistance. If one of the threads burns out, the correct solution is to get rid of the bulb. Moreover, the board can later be used to repair other ESLs. But economical users were able to find a way out here as well. You just need to short-circuit the terminals of the burned-out coil.



Do not count on the fact that in this way you can again enjoy thousands of hours of operation of the corrected lamp. On one serviceable spiral, the lamp will not live much. Here's what needs to be done.

First of all, disconnect the spirals and determine the performance of each of them (read above how to do this). Using a multimeter, you can find a non-working thread (it will also show traces of burnout). If the second thread is working, you just have to shunt the non-working resistor with the same rating as the working one. This step is mandatory as a circuit without shunting will not work.

That's all. As you can see, repairing energy-saving lamps at home is not easy, but possible. If you yourself have encountered the restoration of such light bulbs, share your comments under this article.

Energy efficient light fixtures are known for their durability, but improper handling can significantly reduce their lifespan. We propose to consider how to repair an energy-saving lamp with your own hands, and how to fix a lamp with a burned-out spiral.

Types of faults

Before you start repairing the light bulb, you need to decide on the type of breakdown. There are several types of faults:

1. factory;
2. Operational.

The first are breakdowns that occur due to the dishonesty of manufacturers. These include divergence of contacts, irregular base shape, etc. In this case, operational malfunctions are those that arise in connection with the use of a light source. This is the usual burnout of the spiral, violation of the integrity of the bulb, rupture of wires, etc.

How to fix a lamp

To repair an energy-saving lamp, you need to find out the type of breakdown. Next, study the design of the lamp. An energy-saving lamp consists of a special bulb and a circuit that is responsible for the appearance of light, or power wires. You can disassemble the lamp at home if you have a thin knife or screwdriver. By separating the components, you can study the design in more detail.




We disassemble the lamp with a knife

Please note that not all energy-saving lamps can be repaired on their own or even disassembled. For example, luminescent ones contain harmful gases and compounds in the flask that can cause poisoning. Mercury lamps are quite dangerous. If you have a broken lamp of this type, then in no case start repair or disposal without specialists.

Video: How to fix an energy-saving light bulb with your own hands


And another interesting video:

First, consider what to do if the electric lamp burned out. The lamp burns out due to two reasons:

1. Burnt out filament coil;
2. The ballast circuit flew out.

You can determine them only when parsing an electronic device. You need to pick up an energy-saving lamp, on the bottom of the bulb you will see a small depression. In the photo, this place is indicated by arrows. Carefully, so as not to damage the case, insert a thin but or a screwdriver there, and slightly lift the case. It is very important that the flask does not burst, otherwise there will be no point in repairing.

Before you is a disassembled lamp, in which the wires are connected by simple rewinding, without soldering and other thermal fastening methods. Inside the device, you can see a rounded board, which has darkened a little due to overloads. Along its edges are several bayonets, square in shape, they act as a kind of terminals. Power wires are connected to these terminals, through which electric current is supplied. The wires are wound to the bayonets; when reconnecting, in no case do not solder them even with a dot method.




After you have untwisted the wires, you need to check each spiral with a multimeter. Thus, it turns out which of them burned down. After ringing and finding out the type of breakdown, the burned-out spiral is replaced with a new one.




If you want to check the health of the electronic ballast, then you must definitely study its design. The schematic diagram of this lamp part is very similar to the standard one. The main elements are a capacitor, a resistor and a dinistor. To protect the circuit from burning, rectifier diodes are needed, as well as resistors. When the lamp is connected to the circuit, the resistor charges the capacitor. When the part is normally charged, the dinistor turns on and generates a pulse, which in turn turns on the transistor. After this cycle, the capacitor discharges again and the rectifier diode begins to shunt the network. Next, the transistors start the lamp generator and the transformer.




C6 is a power capacitor that passes through itself electricity to the filament wire. In this case, the current is also filtered on the capacitor and tested for inductance. The power with which the lamp burns is determined using a resonant capacitor. The frequency of the circuit during the operation of this part is somewhat reduced, because. the power capacitor has a much larger capacitance. During the operation of the parts, the transistor is in the open state, and the transformer core is saturated. When it is fully charged, the reverse process occurs, and so an infinite number of cycles.

After that, the starter contacts heat up due to the fact that they receive a certain discharge of gas. The contacts are closed, and electricity is supplied to the glowing wires. For energy-saving lamps, they can heat up to 700 degrees Celsius or more. When the starter contacts cool down, the choke sends an extra strong voltage signal to the electrodes. After that, the gas that is inside the lighting device is ignited.

This principle diagram of the operation of the ballast unit is used in such models as Navigator (Navigator), Maxus (Maxus of the ESL series), Cosmos, Sputnik, Svetozar and others.

In a fluorescent lamp, the electronic ballast looks like this:




Repair of this part is in most cases necessary if any of the parts of the circuit could not withstand the voltage or surge, and burned out. In place of the burnt part, you need to install a new one, but this is not always advisable. Often the malfunctions are quite serious, and the entire unit will need to be replaced, it is much easier to buy a new energy-saving lamp to replace a burned-out one than to repair the old one yourself.

In imported lamps such as "Comtech", "Galeon", "Lezard", "Philips", "Camelion" and others, high-voltage transistors often burn out. These devices are necessary for the normal power supply of the filament, and if burned, they can damage the entire board. To replace them, see the table:

If the energy-saving lamp blinks, then most likely it is a failure during the connection of the contacts. This failure can be attributed to the factory if the device began to fail immediately after purchase. To fix the problem, you need to carefully disassemble the lighting fixture again. Consider an example of a repair on a lamp with an E27 base.



Corrosion processes often occur at these points, in order to repair an energy-saving lamp with such a base with your own hands, clean it from rust. This must be done carefully, using abrasive paper. In the same places, we check the tightness of the connection of the contacts, twist them a little and check the device with a multimeter. The resistance must be within ten ohms; in the event of a malfunction, a break will occur.

If you can’t fix the board yourself, then try using a choke circuit. In this case, the threads will be parallel to each other. If the toggle switch closes, the voltage begins to flow to the contact wire of the lamps, and then to the starter, passing through the throttle. Below is a diagram of such a connection. It can be implemented in lamps "Era" ("Era"), "SPIRAL-econom", "Vito", "Nakai".

Although, according to the manufacturer, the service life of energy-saving lamps is simply enormous. I bought myself a lamp, gave the money and rejoice. It shines for you and saves energy!

And since energy-saving lamps are not cheap, and once a month to buy a lamp for 5 - 8 greens, it seemed wasteful to me. What could be the savings here? It even gets more expensive.

As usual, I got on the Internet, and there it turns out that “our” people have been repairing such lamps for a long time. And successfully. So I decided to try it myself.

We disassemble the energy-saving lamp

The lamp that I started to disassemble broke the bottom of the cartridge, so be careful if you half any energy-saving lamp. But this is not a problem - we can fix it.



When the lamp has already been repaired and assembled, put the torn part back in place, and solder the cracks with a soldering iron. You can stick - to whom it is convenient.

It is best to half an energy-saving lamp with the working part of a screwdriver. Inside the cartridge there are special latches that will need to be snapped off. If you have ever disassembled the remote remote control or cell phone, then it is a similar procedure.

Only here you do this: insert the working part of the screwdriver between the two halves, and turn the screwdriver to the right or left. When the slot increases, you can insert another screwdriver into it, and first step back a little, insert it into the slot and turn it again. Here the most important thing, as in the remote control, is to snap off the first latch.

When you have two halves in your hands, move them apart carefully. There is no need to rush here, you can tear off the wires.



In front of you will be an electronic unit board, which is connected with the base in one part, and with the lamp bulb in the other. The electronic unit board itself is an ordinary ballast, which is usually installed in old fluorescent lights. Only here is electronics, and there is a throttle and a starter.

Determine the degree of damage to the lamp

First of all, we inspect the board on both sides and visually determine which of the parts are clearly damaged and must be replaced.

There were no visible violations from the side of the radio components, but from the side of the tracks where the SMD components are located, two resistors R1 and R4 are visible, which definitely need to be changed.



Here, on the right side of the resistor R1, a piece of the track burned out. This may indicate that at the moment the lamp was turned on or during its operation, the circuit element failed, which caused a short circuit in the circuit.

The first inspection was not very encouraging. If resistors and tracks are burning, then this indicates that the circuit worked in heavy mode, and we will not get off with replacing only these resistors.

We determine the faulty elements on the board of the ballast

Fuse.

First of all, check the fuse. Finding it is easy. At one end it is soldered to the central contact of the lamp base, and at the other end to the board. A tube of insulating material is put on it. Usually, with such a malfunction, the fuses do not survive.

But as it turned out, this is not a fuse, but a half-watt resistor with a resistance of about 10 ohms, and it was burned out (in a break).




The health of the resistor is easily determined.
Transfer the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode to the limit of "continuity" or "200" and measure. If the fuse resistor is intact, then the device will show a resistance of about 10 ohms, but if it shows infinity (one), then it is open.

Here, put one multimeter probe to the central contact of the base, and the second to the place on the board where the output of the fuse resistor is soldered.

One more moment. If the fuse resistor is blown, then when you bite it, try to bite off closer to the resistor body, as shown on the right side of the upper figure. Then, to the conclusion remaining in the base, we will solder a new resistor.

Flask (lamp).

Next, check the resistance of the bulb filaments. It is advisable to solder one pin on each side. The resistance of the threads should be the same, and if different, then one of them burned out. Which is not very good.




In such cases, experts advise to solder a resistor in parallel with the burnt spiral with the same resistance as the second spiral. But in my case, both spirals turned out to be intact, and their resistance was 11 ohms.

The next step is to check for serviceability all semiconductors - these are transistors, diodes and a zener diode.




As a rule, semiconductors do not like working with overload and short circuits, so we check them carefully.

diodes and zener diode.

Diodes and a zener diode do not need to be soldered, they already ring perfectly right on the board.
The direct resistance of the p-n junction of the diodes will be within 750 ohms, and the reverse should be infinity. All my diodes turned out to be intact, which made me a little happy.

The zener diode is two-anode, therefore, in both directions it should show resistance equal to infinity (one).



If you have some diodes turned out to be faulty, then they must be purchased at a radio components store. 1N4007 are used here. But I could not determine the value of the zener diode, but I think that you can set any with a suitable stabilization voltage.

Transistors.

Transistors, and there are two of them, will have to be soldered, since their base-emitter p-n junctions are shunted by the low-resistance winding of the transformer.



One transistor rang both to the right and to the left, but the second one was allegedly intact, but between the collector and emitter, in one direction, it showed a resistance of about 745 ohms. But I did not attach any importance to this, and considered it to be faulty, since it was the first time I dealt with transistors like 13003.

I could not find transistors of this type, in the TO-92 package, I had to buy a larger size, in the TO-126 package.

Resistors and capacitors.

They also need to be checked for correctness. But what if.

I still had one SMD resistor, the value of which was not visible, especially since I did not know the circuit diagram of this ballast. But there was another such working energy-saving lamp, and it came to my rescue. It shows that the value of the resistor R6 is 1.5 ohms.



To finally make sure that all possible faults were found, I called all the elements on the working board and compared their resistances to the faulty one. And he didn't boil anything.

As a result, the price turned out not at all expensive:

1. Transistors 13003 - 2 pcs. 10 rubles each (in the TO-126 case - I took 10 pieces);
2. SMD resistors - 1.5 Ohm and 510 kOhm, 1 ruble each (I took 10 pieces);
3. 10 Ohm resistor - 3 rubles apiece (took 10 pieces);
4. Diodes 1N4007 - 5 rubles apiece (I took 10 pieces just in case);
5. Heat shrink - 15 rubles.



Assembly

Here a surprise awaited me. But about this in order.

First of all, we solder the burnt ones, and then we solder the new SMD resistors. Here, it is difficult to advise anything, because he himself did not really learn how to solder them.

I do this: I heat both sides with a soldering iron at the same time, while trying to move the resistor from its place with a screwdriver or a soldering iron tip. If possible, then I heat from the side of the resistor and squeeze it out with a sting, and if not, then I heat the upper part and move it with a screwdriver. Just do it carefully and quickly so that the conductors do not peel off the board.



The photo shows that the resistor warms up from the side.

Soldering SMD resistors is much easier!
If solder remains on the contact pads, and it interferes with the installation of the resistor, then we remove it.

This is done simply: hold the board at an angle with the tracks down, and bring the corner of the tip of the sting to the contact pad. Remove excess solder from the tip first.

When the pad warms up, you will see how the solder flows to the soldering iron. Again, this must be done quickly and carefully.

Put the resistor in place, align it and press it with a screwdriver, and now solder each side in turn.



Now we solder the faulty ones and solder the new transistors. I didn’t find any transistors in the right case, and these are a little big, but the pinout matches. Which is no longer bad.
Here we bite off the conclusions, approximately, as in the picture below.



Solder the defective one and solder the new one in the same way. One transistor will stand to you "in front", and the second "back". In the picture below, the transistor is "backward".



And the last step is to solder the fuse-resistor.
Bite off the output with a length, as on a faulty one. Solder to the output sticking out of the base, put on heat shrink, and only after that, solder the free output of the resistor to the board in place.




All is ready. But we haven't fully assembled the lamp yet. You need to make sure it works.

Once again, we carefully examine the places where the soldering was carried out and whether the circuit elements are installed correctly. You can't be wrong here. Otherwise, the entire repair process will have to start over.

We supply power to the lamp. And here's where I hit. The transistor blew, and from the same side where the faulty one rang both to the right and to the left. There could be no errors in the installation - I checked it several times.

After the clap, I lost the transistor and the resistor R6 with a nominal value of 15 ohms. Everything else was intact.

Again, I disassemble the working lamp, and compare the resistance of all elements. Everything is okay. And then I remembered the transistor, which was half serviceable.

When such a transistor dropped out from a working lamp and rang, it turned out that between the collector and emitter it also shows the presence of resistance of about 745 ohms in one direction. Then it became clear that this is not a simple transistor. Useful to google on the Internet.

And here on one Chinese site (the link has been deleted, since the site no longer works) I find about transistors of the 13003 series. It turns out that they are simple, composite, with a diode inside, and differ only in the last 2 - 3 letters printed on the case. In this ballast there were composite transistors with a diode inside.



As it turned out, the “faulty” transistor, in which the collector and emitter were called in one direction, was “live”. And when you have to change transistors, first determine by the last letters whether it is simple or compound.



I solder a new transistor, and put a diode between the collector and emitter according to the above diagram: cathode to the collector, and anode to the emitter.
Instead of an SMD resistor, I put an ordinary 15 Ohm resistor, since I didn’t have an esemdash with such a value.

I am feeding again. As you can see, the lamp is on.



That's all.
Now, when you repair energy-saving lamps, I hope my experience will be useful to you.
Good luck!

According to sesaga.ru

Also Interesting

I bought 10W 900lm warm white LEDs for trial on AliExpress. The price in November 2015 was 23 rubles apiece. The order came in a standard bag, I checked everything is working.


To power LEDs in lighting devices, special blocks are used - electronic drivers, which are converters that stabilize the current, and not the voltage at their output. But since the drivers for them (also ordered on AliExpreess) were still on the way, I decided to power them from the ballast from energy-saving lamps. I had several of these faulty lamps. whose filament burned out in the bulb. As a rule, for such lamps, the voltage converter is working, and it can be used as impulse block power or LED driver.
We disassemble the fluorescent lamp.




For rework, I took a 20 W lamp, the choke of which can easily give 20 W to the load. For a 10W LED, no further modifications are required. If you plan to ask for more powerful LED, you need to take a converter from a more powerful lamp, or install a choke with a large core.
I installed jumpers in the lamp ignition circuit.



I wound 18 turns of enameled wire on the inductor, solder the conclusions of the wound winding to the diode bridge, apply mains voltage to the lamp and measure the output voltage. In my case, the unit gave out 9.7V. I connected the LED through an ammeter, which showed a current of 0.83A passing through the LED. My LED has a working current of 900mA, but I reduced the current to increase the resource. I assembled a diode bridge on the board in a hinged way.

Alteration scheme.



The LED was installed on thermal paste on the metal shade of an old table lamp.



I installed the power board and the diode bridge in the body of the table lamp.



When working for about an hour, the temperature of the LED is 40 degrees.



On the eye, the illumination is like from a 100 watt incandescent lamp.



I plan to buy +128 Add to favorites Liked the review +121 +262
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30.11.2020
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