Do-it-yourself homemade subwoofer for a car. Making a subwoofer for a car

A car subwoofer is a low-frequency speaker that is installed inside a special housing. A self-made subwoofer is designed to reproduce sound at low frequencies. Our article will tell you how to make it. You will also find out what options for subwoofer boxes exist. The enclosure is an acoustic design that isolates the sound waves emitted by the back and front sides of the speaker cone, since when they cross, self-damping occurs, which is called a short circuit.

Types of box designs

There are several popular options for car subwoofers:

Do-it-yourself subwoofer: what to make the body from?

What material is best for creating a subwoofer enclosure? Let's look at a few popular options:

1. Chipboard is the most suitable option, which is inexpensive and easy to process. You should choose a material of maximum density with a thickness of at least 16 mm. Chipboard absorbs moisture well and swells, so it is better to paint it.
2. Fiberboard. As in the case of chipboard, you need to choose a material with maximum density. It flakes easily, especially if it gets wet. You need to work with fiberboard carefully, otherwise you can ruin everything. Regardless of all the disadvantages, the material is very comfortable and makes it easy and quick to assemble a housing for a subwoofer with a medium-power speaker.
3. Plywood. It is better to choose plywood from Russian birch or ship's wood. Many other varieties do not have a high enough density, which causes distortion in the sound.

If you have sheets of fiberboard, chipboard or plywood, but have a small thickness, to ensure the required structural rigidity, fold two sheets together, coat them with sealant, wood glue or PVA, and twist them with self-tapping screws.

Tools and materials

Materials

The materials you will need are the following:

1. Speakers. When choosing them you should know that different models have certain characteristics. The instructions or on the box always indicate the recommended acoustic design for a particular speaker.
2. Fiberboard, plywood or chipboard. The quantity depends on the dimensions of the case.
3. Wire terminals.
4. Acoustic cable.
5. Epoxy resin.
6. PVA glue or silicone sealant.
7. Varnish or paint.
8. Self-tapping screws for wood.
9. Carpet
10. Glue in a can for carpet.
11. If you are making a bass reflex enclosure, you will need a suitable tunnel. If you don’t find the right size tube on sale, pick up a plastic pipe of a suitable diameter at a hardware store.

Tools

1. Screwdriver or screwdriver.
2. Jigsaw or hacksaw.
3. Long ruler or tape measure.
4. Pencil.
5. Scissors.

Before assembling the subwoofer box, you need to calculate it correctly. Download a program on the Internet called JBL SpeakerShop or its equivalent, and calculate the dimensions of the case. You will figure out how to do this - there is nothing complicated about it.

Subwoofer manufacturing stages

First, you need to cut the walls of the future box to size. Cut carefully to size to ensure minimal gaps during assembly.

Group the walls by sealing the joints with sealant, and then screw in self-tapping screws every few centimeters.

Re-coat the joints with sealant inside and outside. If even a small hole remains, you will hear an unpleasant whistle through it when the speaker is operating.

Cut a hole in a convenient place for the terminals for the wires - the so-called acoustic terminal.

If you are making a bass reflex box, secure the bass reflex port in the appropriate hole using epoxy resin.

To protect the case made of chipboard or fiberboard from moisture, coat the material with varnish or paint, preferably nitro.

Tighten the case with a carpet, not forgetting to leave holes for the terminal and speakers. Install the acoustic terminal in the designated place and secure it with self-tapping screws. We recommend coating the seat with epoxy resin from the inside.

Connect the two wires to the terminals inside the terminal. Connect the other ends of the wires to the speaker terminals - they should have the length needed to comfortably connect the speaker.

Insert the speaker into place, and place the seal in the joint between the plane of the box and the speaker. If this was not included in the kit, use a window seal or a foam strip.

Secure the speaker with the screws included in the kit or with simple wood screws. So, the work of assembling a subwoofer for a car is completed, and all you have to do is connect the device to the amplifier.

What is the best way to make a subwoofer box?

What is the best way to make a subwoofer box with your own hands? Readers often ask. Let's try to figure it out.
This article was written precisely for this purpose. In addition, the reader will receive valuable instructions on how to make a cabinet for this speaker with their own hands. Having found out what would be the best material to make a subwoofer box from, you can safely proceed to the operation.

Which material is better

In principle, there are many materials from which a housing for such a speaker can be made. It can be plywood, MDF, chipboard and so on. Each of these materials has not only advantages, but also disadvantages.

Note. The best material for making a subwoofer enclosure, according to many experts, is shipboard laminated plywood.

Finding ship plywood is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Construction sites and other manufacturing enterprises have such material.
Formwork is often made from this plywood. This material is always moisture resistant, very durable and tough. In a word, for a subwoofer body this is what you need.

Note. It will be useful to know that in the West, where the manufacture of homemade enclosures for subwoofers is highly encouraged, they prefer MDF. They don’t have any marine plywood at all, and many experts see this as the reason for their love for MDF.

Chipboard is also a good material, but it doesn’t like moisture at all. In addition, when processed, chipboard tends to crumble. On the other hand, if you take thicker material, the problem can be solved.

Some experts also recommend other materials, but they are, as a rule, not so popular - for example, glued laminated boards.

Purchased or made yourself

Let's get started:

• The first step is to determine the size and shape of the future box. It will be useful to find a suitable housing drawing;

• We determine the material from which we will assemble the box. As mentioned above, marine plywood is considered the best material. If we couldn’t find it, then we use MDF or multilayer plywood.

Note. When choosing plywood, the main thing is to pay attention to its thickness. Try to select thick plywood, because the rigidity of the entire structure will depend on this, which will ultimately affect the sound.
Thus, the optimal thickness for a subwoofer box is considered to be 18 mm. This is quite reasonable: you won’t have to spend a lot of money (the thicker the plywood, the more expensive it is) and the quality will remain at the same level. On the other hand, everyone decides for themselves and sometimes the weight of a homemade box can reach more than 50 kilograms.

• You don't have to cut plywood in your own garage. You can do this right in the store if you ask the seller to observe the appropriate dimensions. In many stores, cutting is completely free;
• Let's prepare necessary materials: glue, preferably PVA, brushes, self-tapping screws or furniture screws, liquid nails and much more.

Note. Don’t forget to buy a piece of carpet, which we will use to cover the box at the last stage of production.

We are building a building

First of all, we start making the body of the box.
Started:

• It is advisable to make the front part of the box, where the head will be fixed, double. We just put two sheets of plywood here and that's it.
  If the thickness of the plywood sheet is chosen to be 18 mm, then in this part the thickness should be all 36 mm, which will provide greater rigidity. This is very important, because it is this part of the box that receives the greatest impact.

Note. You can do it differently. A hole of normal size is made in the first sheet, and a larger hole is made in the second sheet, which is on the outside. Thus, the subwoofer head will be recessed into the body, which has a positive effect not only on technical capabilities, but also on aesthetic components.

Let's continue:

• We glue the plywood sheets together and then secure them with self-tapping screws. It is important not to skip screws, but to attach them to every 1 cm2 of wall area.

Note. In other words, it is advisable to tighten the screws every 3-5 cm.

• We connect the walls of the box body not with self-tapping screws, but with special furniture screws. To do this, we arm ourselves with a drill and drill holes for the screws. Then we drip glue into the hole we made and tighten the screw. Unlike self-tapping screws, screws will provide better fixation.

Note. Over time, furniture screws do not become loose, even from constant shaking and vibrations.

• A triangular strip is glued into the inner corners of the box if it is necessary to increase the rigidity of the structure. You can even install stretchers inside, which will prevent deformation of the body.
  This is recommended to be done only for large speakers (see) with prohibitive power, since for medium and small ones this installation does not make sense.

We protect and modify the hull

Let's get started:

• A special varnish applied to the surface will help protect the plywood from moisture;
• We glue vibration-insulating material inside the case. It will not only protect the body, but will also significantly increase the rigidity of the entire structure;
• Some experts recommend protecting the subwoofer housing with vibration-insulating material on the outside as well. This will make it possible to obtain pleasant and high-quality bass;
• We glue all the joints and connections, paying special attention to the place where the wires come from.

Note. It is believed that closed type The subwoofer box should not have any holes at all. And some experts even recommend checking the tightness of the box by pouring water inside. But this is already overkill and it is unlikely that this should be done.

How to make a box for a subwoofer

At this point, the process of making a subwoofer box with your own hands can be called complete. The instructions should not be ignored under any circumstances.
Quite a lot important have video reviews and photos - materials that also need to be given attention (see). Thus, the price of the subwoofer housing will be the lowest, since you will only need to spend money on consumables.

Hi all! Many car owners appreciate high quality sound in car. But it is not always possible to get it from a standard audio system. Therefore, you have to resort to some tricks, assemble a homemade complex and achieve the desired results. As you understand, today I will try to tell you about how to make and assemble a subwoofer into a car with your own hands.

In fact, if you have a good understanding of electrical circuits and also know how to hold tools in your hands, there is nothing difficult in assembly and manufacturing. Prepare special drawings, think through the design, look good ideas in the photo, and also calculate all the necessary parameters.

Even if your car audio system does not have an amplifier, a good passive or active sub will correct the situation and significantly improve the sound quality of your favorite compositions. Moreover, you can make a sub from old speakers or from an ordinary speaker.

Let's talk about everything in the appropriate order. Let's try to figure out together how to make an excellent subwoofer for your car.

Speaker selection

Although in theory a sub can be made from a regular home speaker, which is used in music centers or on computers, to achieve a good result I advise you to choose the speaker responsibly.

Using one compact element or trying to assemble a system of two speakers, this directly affects the size of the box, as well as the frequency spectrum that the device can reproduce.

There are several main speaker options:

• 6-inch. Used as sources of mid-bass when combined with large subs;
• 8-inch. Well suited for those who need front bass;
• 10-inch. Suitable for speakers with an internal volume of 15-20 liters;
• 12-inch. They produce excellent sound quality, but the box will have a volume of at least 25 liters;
• 15-inch. Incredible powerful bass, but the body will take up a minimum of 60 liters. Or even all 90.

Before assembling your flat or surround sub, be sure to think about choosing the voice coil resistance. One simple rule applies here. The lower the resistance of the amplifier, the higher the power parameter will be.

The mistake of many is choosing devices with a minimum value. If you place a subwoofer with similar resistance under a seat or anywhere else, the sound quality will suffer greatly. It is optimal to choose about 2-4 ohms. But it’s better to refuse 1-2 Ohms.

As for power, specialists and ordinary car enthusiasts do not have a consensus on this matter. But I can say one thing for sure. It is optimal when the power of the selected speaker slightly exceeds the power parameters of the amplifier used. We must not forget that almost all systems are not designed to operate for a long time and at maximum power. Gradually, in this mode, the sound quality will decrease and various distortions will appear.

Choose wisely, keeping in mind that all this equipment will have to be installed somewhere. It would be correct if the built-in subwoofer does not disturb the interior space, and also does not become an obstacle in the luggage compartment of your VAZ 2107 or any other car.

Subwoofer design

The next step will be to create a project for the future sub. Before assembling the case, it is recommended to perform some calculations. You can see something in the video, study the experience of making subs by other car enthusiasts.

But it’s still right to make a project specifically tailored to your speaker and car parameters. For such purposes there is even a special practical professional program. It's called Win ISD. Some parameters are entered into it, as a result of which you get a project for the optimal subwoofer.

You should know about:

• equivalent volume;
• acoustic resonance frequency in open space conditions;
• maximum noise power;
• diffuser diameter;
• speaker quality factor;
• electrical quality factor;
• mechanical quality factor;
• impedance of your speaker.

If you are using standard speakers, then some parameters are already set and do not need to be changed. Search necessary information you can do it through the manufacturer’s website, find data on the Internet and see what is indicated on the packaging. If you ordered some strange speaker from China, you may not be able to find information on it.

In this case, the key parameter is considered to be the quality factor of the speaker, which is designated as Qts. This parameter describes the performance of the speaker at resonant frequencies. When you enter all the specified parameters, the program will give you one type of box for the sub as an answer. There are 3 options in total, each of which has its own strengths and weaknesses.

The boxes are:

• standard closed;
• bandpasses;
• bass reflexes.

The first option is the simplest in terms of manufacturing and creating a project. But the efficiency indicators are low. It is also important to comply with strict requirements for the tightness of the box.

The other two are better in terms of sound, but making them yourself is extremely problematic.

Final design stage

Working through the program, you will need to create a new project for your future sub.

The sequence of operations is approximately as follows:

• First, a new speaker is created, after which its parameters will need to be loaded into the database;
• Next, a project is created based on the box that you chose or the program recommended to you;
• To complete this step, you will need to follow the previously described procedures again;
• Design includes making changes to the box, adjusting the frequency and other parameters.

By changing the parameters, the graph with frequencies will change in parallel. You should try to make sure that at 25 to 35 Hz the graph crosses the -3 dB line, then follows the line to 0 dB, and then moves downward at 150 to 200 Hz.

Making a box

In most cases, plywood and chipboard sheets are used as materials for making a homemade subwoofer. It is extremely rare for motorists to decide to use wood.

To achieve curved surfaces, fiberglass is ideal. It's not difficult to work with her. You just need to create a layout and glue it in layers until you get the desired shape.

If you worked with the program, you will get the most accurate dimensions. It is extremely important to make the box in strict accordance with these dimensional parameters. Otherwise, the point in using the software disappears by itself. You can just as easily make a box by eye and put the speakers in it.

Assembly is carried out using glue, screws and other fastening elements. Make sure the box is sealed to avoid moisture condensation on the speaker. Be sure to seal the seams with sealants. The walls should additionally be coated with a special nitro varnish. It is used in furniture production, so buying such varnish will not be difficult.

When the body is ready, upholster or sheathe it with some decorative material. Genuine leather, artificial leather, furniture fabric, and carpet are perfect here. Simple painting is also possible, but covering it improves the tightness and improves the quality of the subwoofer.

Installation and connection are carried out according to your specific scheme. Here everything depends on the speaker used, their number, location of the subwoofer and other nuances. If you are in doubt about the correct installation, contact a familiar electrician.

So, at home there is a Sony home theater whose bass is too weak. It was decided to improve it, which led to the appearance of a homemade active subwoofer in the room and, as a result, this article on the site 2 Schemes.ru.

Making a subwoofer enclosure

First of all, we calculated the housing for the loudspeaker using the WinISD program, doing it in 3D via Sketchup.

The case will be set to 35 Hz. The dimensions of the base (width and depth) are 600x400, respectively, because the subwoofer will need to fit well under the cabinet (photo at the end of the article). Here are screenshots from WinISD: according to calculations and the WinISD program, the capacity should be 60.9 liters, not counting the speaker and Bass reflector.

The minimum cross-section of the tunnel is 150 cm2, so we take 15 cm by 10 cm. The program showed a length of exactly 50 cm, but they couldn’t hold it for that long, so they tilted it. It's hard to immediately understand how bending affects the length of the tunnel, so we measured it logically so that the bent version had the same amount of air as the straight version. An OSB board of 18 mm is predicted. When bending a tunnel, there is a triangular element that is calculated so that at the narrowest point the area is the same as in straight lines, that is, 150 cm2.

Next, you need to buy several MDF boards - one with a thickness of 25 mm and five with a thickness of 18 mm. Then cut all the slabs with an extra 1mm edge to fit the rest of the pieces exactly. Dimensions of plates in the table (thickness, quantity, dimensions):

First, we will glue the part of the tunnel with the bass reflector and screw it together using drywall screws. Then we will glue the bottom wall. Using the available space, we put the element on the bend of the tunnel, then add an element that was also the wall of the tunnel and the chamber with the electronics.

Then we will glue and screw the side wall on the side of the radiators and the wall on the other side. Let's glue the front plate. Now there are holes for the socket and radiators.

To strengthen it, we will tighten the speaker chamber with a T-shaped element. Here, no rigidity was given to the bottom wall, because the tunnel wall stiffens it enough. At the end we will glue the top wall.

The wood work is almost finished. Now let's start covering with matter. Glue everything to the wood with the same glue that was used to glue the box.

Cut the felt with a hot blade. At the edges where two pieces of felt were connected, we glued them to the overlap (one part overlapped the other side by a couple of cm, and the other to the edge).

Subwoofer circuit diagrams

Preamp + filter

Front panel potentiometer

LED level indicator

Dynamics protection

Amplifier

The PSU board is basically an 8 A bridge rectifier that rectifies voltage up to 42 V direct current symmetrical. There are 2 capacitors of 1000 uF per channel. Next, the LM317/337+2x4700uF assembly, which produces symmetrical 12V. Next to the LM317 and LM7805 with the same capacitors for +12V power for the rest of the boards and the front panel USB header.

Below is a photo of the signal processing board:

The board includes 2 preamplifiers, a fourth-order low-pass filter with a cutoff frequency of 70 Hz and damping of 24 dB/octave, a phase shifter with a range from 0 to -180 degrees. and phase inversion 180 degrees. There is a UPC1237 protection board according to the original schematic.

And this is the installation of the speaker in the subwoofer housing:

Listening to the subwoofer

• The big red switch is power to the transformer.
• Below it there is a network indicator.
• The green switch turns on the bass reflex tunnel lighting.
• Next to it is an input switch.
• The black switch in the upper right corner is used to switch the speaker between the internal power amplifier and the Speak-on jack on the rear panel.
• The red LED below indicates problems and turns off the speaker. It is controlled by uPC1237.
• The green LED at the bottom shows the voltage status of the USB next to it.
• To the right of the USB connector there are 2 jacks as one of the input signals.
• The switch at the bottom right is used to rotate the signal phase 180 degrees.
• The left potentiometer controls the volume level.
• The right one is for adjusting the phase shift in the range -180-0.

The sound became deeper. Much. In any case, it was better than without a sub. You can feel the air resonating in your lungs and objects bouncing on the shelves. It is difficult to say how much was spent on the manufacture of this design, but the cost of the purchased parts, offhand, is about 5,000 rubles. And at the end we lay out printed circuit board layouts,

• As a useful addition -

Before you start designing and assembling the box, you need to decide on the choice of speaker. We recommend choosing 10-12 inch imported speakers, as they are most often used in car subwoofers and are best suited. We described in detail how to choose a speaker for a subwoofer in a previous article. The design of the box is also important: the quality and volume of low-frequency sound depends on it.

What types of subwoofer boxes are there?

There are several types of subwoofer boxes. The sound quality directly depends on the design of the box, which you will receive at the output. Below are the most popular types of subwoofers:

A closed box is the easiest to manufacture and design; its name speaks for itself. The woofer is placed in a sealed wooden case, which improves its acoustic characteristics. Making a subwoofer in a car with such a housing is quite simple, but it has the lowest efficiency.

A 4th order bandpass is a type of subwoofer whose body is divided into chambers. The volumes of these chambers are different; in one of them there is a speaker, and in the second there is a bass reflex (air duct). One of the features of this type of subwoofer is the design's ability to limit the frequencies that the cone reproduces.

The 6th order bandpass differs from the 4th order by the presence of another bass reflex and another camera. There are two types of 6th order bandpasses - the first has one bass reflex, and the second has two (one of them is common to both cameras). This type of box is the most difficult to design, but produces maximum efficiency.

A bass reflex is a subwoofer with a special tube in the housing. It vents air and provides additional sound from the rear of the speaker. In terms of complexity in manufacturing and sound quality, this type is a cross between a closed box and a bandpass.

Wanting to get the most high quality sound, you can opt for bandpasses. But this type of design has many details that must be carefully designed and calculated. All this can be done using special program WinlSD, which will not only determine the optimal size and volume of the subwoofer, but also create a 3D model of it, and also calculate the dimensions of all parts.

Unfortunately, this program requires at least minimal knowledge in this area and the average car enthusiast is unlikely to be able to do everything right the first time. Moreover, in order for the program to work correctly, it needs some speaker parameters, which are also not known to everyone. If you do not plan to take part in car audio competitions, we advise you to discard the bandpasses.

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The bass reflex will be the most optimal solution for a homemade subwoofer. This type of box is good because the tube (bass reflex) allows you to better reproduce the most low frequencies. In fact, this is an additional sound source that contributes to the sound of the subwoofer and increases efficiency.

What materials do we need to assemble the subwoofer?

The material for making the subwoofer box must be durable, dense and well insulating sound. For this Multi-layer plywood or chipboard is perfect. The main advantages of these materials are their affordable price and ease of processing. They are quite durable and provide good sound insulation. We will make a subwoofer from multi-layer plywood 30 mm thick.

To make a subwoofer box we will need:

• Wood screws (approximately 50-55 mm, 100 pieces)
• Soundproofing material (Shumka)
• Drill and screwdriver (or screwdriver)
• Jigsaw
• Liquid Nails
• Sealant
• PVA glue
• Carpet, approximately 3 meters
• Klemnik

Subwoofer box drawings

In this article we will make a box for a subwoofer with a 12-inch speaker. Recommended box volume for one 10-12 inch speaker is 40-50 liters. Calculating a box for a subwoofer is not difficult, here is an approximate diagram with the dimensions of the panels.

It is worth paying attention to the minimum distance from the walls of the case to the speaker. It, like the volume of the entire box, is calculated based on the inner surface.

Video instruction: how to make a drawing for a subwoofer yourself

Assembling a subwoofer box with your own hands

You can start assembling. We use a 12-inch Lanzar VW-124 speaker.


Its diameter is 30 cm, and the first thing you need to do is cut a hole for the speaker. The minimum distance from the center of the diffuser to the subwoofer wall is 20 cm. We measured 23 cm (20 cm + 3 cm plywood width) from the edge of the panel and cut a hole with a jigsaw. Next, we cut a hole for the bass reflex slot; in our example, it has a size of 35*5 cm.


Instead of a slot, you can use a classic air duct - a tube. Now we assemble the bass reflex slot and attach it to the front panel of the subwoofer. We go along the joints with liquid nails and tighten them with self-tapping screws.

It is important to tighten the screws very tightly so as not to leave any voids. They will create resonant vibrations that will ruin the sound of the subwoofer.

Next, we assemble the side walls of the box, having previously lubricated them with liquid nails, and tighten them tightly with self-tapping screws.


On back cover box you need to cut a small hole for the terminal block. We connect all parts of the body. We make sure that we cut and fastened all the parts correctly.


We insert the speaker. Let's look and admire.


Let's move on to the interior decoration of the box. The first thing you need to do is seal all the joints and cracks with epoxy glue or sealant. Next, using PVA glue, we glue soundproofing material onto the entire inner surface of the box.




Now we cover the entire outer plane of the box with carpet, including the bass reflex slot. You can attach it with epoxy glue or using a furniture stapler.


Next, insert and screw the speaker tightly. The subwoofer is almost ready, all that remains is to stretch the wires from the speaker to the terminal block and connect the amplifier.


We bought an additional amplifier, but you can also make it yourself. This is quite difficult, as it requires knowledge and practice in the field of radio engineering. You can also use ready-made kits and circuits for radio amateurs, like Master-KIT, and assemble the amplifier yourself. The only thing requirement for the amplifier - its maximum power must be less than the maximum power of the speaker.

See also a video report on making a homemade subwoofer for 2 speakers

Making a stealth subwoofer with your own hands

Tired of carrying a huge box in your trunk? Then the stealth subwoofer is just made for you. This unique type of case is more practical than the classic box. It doesn't sit in a square box in the middle of the trunk and takes up less space. Often, stealth is installed in the inner part of the wing, sometimes in a niche instead of a spare wheel. The minimum volume of the box that requires a 10-12 inch speaker for normal operation is 18 liters.

To make a passive stealth subwoofer we will need:

• subwoofer;
• protective grille and socket for connection to the amplifier;
• wire for connecting the speaker to the outlet;
• multilayer plywood or chipboard (thickness 20 mm);
• a small piece of fiberboard;
• epoxy adhesive;
• brush;
• fiberglass;
• mounting tape;
• polyethylene film;
• wood screws;
• drill, jigsaw.

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After choosing the place where the stealth will be installed, we empty the trunk and begin manufacturing the body. You can remove the trunk trim where the subwoofer will be installed to place it even closer to the fender. First of all, lay a plastic film on the floor of the trunk. It performs two functions at once: it protects the trunk lining from epoxy glue and allows us to make a mount to which we will screw the bottom of the subwoofer. Next, we cover the inside of the wing with mounting tape in two layers.


We cut the fiberglass into small pieces, approximately 20x20 cm. We place pieces of fiberglass onto masking tape and glue them with epoxy glue. It is better to overlap the fiberglass fabric so that there are no obvious joints and seams.


We sculpt layers of fiberglass on top of each other, simultaneously lubricating them with epoxy glue, until the thickness of the sheet reaches 10 mm (about 4-5 layers).


The material will harden in approximately 12 hours. To speed up the process, you can use a lamp. Now we cut out the bottom of the subwoofer and glue it to our body. The joint is treated with sealant or glued with epoxy resin.


In this particular case, the shape needs to be adjusted to the trunk hinges so that our homemade subwoofer does not interfere with its closing. After we have cut off all the excess, we cut out the side walls from chipboard and top cover. We make the rounded part from plywood, we did it “by eye”.

To make it easier to give the plywood a rounded shape, you must first wet it, give it the desired shape, secure it and let it dry.

Chipboard sheets must be glued with epoxy glue or sealant, and then fastened with self-tapping screws. We also glue the fiberglass box using epoxy resin, and when it dries, we fasten it with self-tapping screws.


For better sealing you can glue the seams again. We applied another layer of epoxy glue and pressed the structure with sand to help the glue adhere better.


Next we can measure the front panel and cut it out. Using a jigsaw, cut out a circle for the speaker. In order to securely attach the front panel to the body, you need to tighten it with self-tapping screws on all sides. That is, you need to install bars on the entire inside of the panel, at a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the plywood (in our case, we attached the bars at a distance of approximately 25 mm from the edge of the panel). Thanks to this, we will be able to secure the front part at the top, bottom, sides, and most importantly - securely attach it to the rounded element.


Cut a hole in the end for the socket.


In the end, it was decided to add two more layers of fiberglass and epoxy glue to the curved part of the body for the stealth subwoofer.


We carry out final assembly: install the socket and connect the speaker to it, but do not screw it in yet. Further There are two options - paint the subwoofer, or cover it with carpet. Painting is a little more difficult, since you must first level the surface. For this we used universal putty.


We level everything with sandpaper, prime and paint. The subwoofer is ready!