Soldering station T12 on STM32. Soldering station on an STM32 controller for T12 tips. Connection diagram of a soldering station with a stm32 hair dryer.
- Price: 44.90 USD
Since childhood I have been interested in radio electronics. During all this time, the horizons of interests changed from multivibrators and detector receivers to microprocessors. But what invariably accompanies every radio amateur on his journey through the fascinating world of radio engineering is a soldering iron.
Do you remember how you sharpened a burnt tip with a file? How did you make a thyristor power regulator, or solder a diode with a button so that the soldering would not overheat? Such times, unfortunately or fortunately, are in the past. Eternal stings and smart power regulators have replaced all this.
I myself have been a user of the Lukey 936D for about three years, and I had almost no complaints about it. But, climbing through the expanses of Aliexpress, I saw THIS. And the essence in the form of a gnome in me quietly, but very persistently whispered: “Your leg. LOOK AT THIS. THERE’S EVEN TIME HERE.”
I couldn’t disagree with this argument, and so a month later I was walking home from work not just tired, but also happy and with a package under my belt.
In the product description, the package looks like this:
In reality I received:
But today the Russian Post was powerless! No matter how much they played football with this parcel, they failed to break something inside them.
Inside the parcel:
What’s interesting is that they included a plug for connecting the hookah in the kit - apparently it’s a gift :)
When I started assembling, I noticed an interesting thing: there is no connector for 220V on the power supply.
OK. We are simple people, we will get along. I looked at the board, at the markings on it, and found contact pads for 220V. I got soldered with approximately the same emotions
And who knows them, the Chinese? I walked around the corner and turned it on. Hooray! The red terminals have 24.5V – exactly as much as needed.
And this is not the only problem that occurred due to the semi-updated configuration of the parcel. The board simply does not fit inside the case.
It was difficult to insert it in half, but the radiator rests closely at the top.
You might think that “this is not a bug, this is a feature,” but no - with such abuse, the body expands a little, which further complicates assembly.
A few words about soldering - it’s quite up to par here. We don’t take into account the eternal flux stains that can be found in any Chinese device. Look at the back of the control board:
The front part is assembled simply and effortlessly. The control board is attached to it with the encoder's fixing tab and its nut. The board does not stand up straight enough, which means the screen is slightly crooked. This doesn’t affect my work; I, being a bit of a perfectionist, don’t notice it. I will describe the procedure for assembling the front part:
1. Put the control board in place. Do not tighten the nut too much. (you'll understand why later)
2. Insert a five-pin cable, solder it to the connector of the soldering iron (to do this, you can disassemble the plug of the soldering iron, insert it into the connector and solder the wires by color. All the colors matched for me, but I checked anyway, and I advise you to do the same )
3. Fix the connector, solder the power wires, fix the soldering iron socket on the front part, assemble the front part with the main body, tighten the screws.
4. And only after that we unscrew the nut from the encoder, stick a sticker with a piece of display glass and inscriptions on the face, and then properly fix the encoder.
5. You are excellent!
Soldering iron socket connector and soldering iron plug
I want to say that the fit of the case here is simply exquisite. The front part, as it were, “absorbs” the upper and lower parts of the body, and simply inserting them there, inside, will not work. You need to insert the lower part, place the upper part on its grooves at an angle, bring it into the front part at the same angle, and only then lower it. In this case, you need to hold the front part.
The rear part is also not without flaws. This was done without taking into account the walls of the holes for the screws; when screwed together, everything looks like this:
But it doesn’t matter, we grind off the excess plastic, and everything is solved with little effort.
My attention was also drawn to stings. Tips of the HAKKO-T12 type are used here. I asked the seller to send me a T12-KL, with sharpening for left-handed people. But send me the universal T12-K and the cone-shaped T12-ILS for all sorts of SOIC and SMD. Not what I ordered, but it can work.
The seller writes that you can choose the tip yourself - here is a plate of the ones he has. Google brings up its image by name.
After assembly, I inserted a cone-shaped tip into the soldering iron, turned on the station and... ERROR. A couple of minutes of checking showed that everything was assembled correctly - the problem was the sting. I couldn’t get over the idea that I wouldn’t be able to use this sting—I liked it too much. Picking the sting led me to a secret place:
This is a cap that hides two heater contacts connected to a contact pair. There was simply no contact in this place. I crimped them with pliers and the problem went away.
Soldering iron.
The soldering iron itself is unusual for me. Let's compare with the same Lyukeevsky, who has seen the world:
I don’t know about you, but I can only call such a soldering iron a pussy. Jokes aside, what really bothered me was that the sting is sitting in a plastic shaft, and, sooner or later, the heat will reach there. Is this plastic heat resistant or not? And who knows, time will tell. It feels cheap to the touch, so wobbly and glossy. But, oddly enough, it is convenient for them to work.
The plug is more convenient than the Lyukeev one - it constantly tried to slip out of the connector, but here such a number would not work - I tightened the lock and forgot about this problem altogether.
Handle thread
Soldering iron insides
Let's start with the fact that a soldering iron can:
1. Cool down your ardor with the Standby function for a given number of degrees while the owner rummages through the box with resistors;
2. Go to sleep - a mode in which voltage is not supplied to the soldering iron at all, while the owner has forgotten about the switched-on soldering iron and gone about his business;
3. Heat the soldering iron with the Boost function to a specified number of degrees;
4. Track the movements of the soldering iron - for this purpose there is a mercury ball inside it (as stated). If there is no movement for a certain number of minutes, the station goes into standby or sleep. On my own behalf, I will say that the ball is very sensitive, it reacts even if you put something like a glass on the table with moderate force;
5. Show time. Very important!
6. And the pulp, most importantly - to this station you can set a PASSWORD! A soldering iron on a password is something new 🙂 In fact, I can’t imagine using this function.
Software version in this constructor– 2.1S, the Chinese wrote that “V3.0 is newer, but 2.1S is the best.” Believe it or not, I don’t know. 🙂 But I can definitely say that in terms of convenience and comfort, this station is ahead of the same Lukey 936D. I can be absent-minded, and that’s why sometimes the soldering iron was left on for 4-5 hours. Here he will simply go to sleep, and the chance that something bad will happen is reduced.
By the way, about convenience: compare the sizes of these stations
I was very impressed by this difference, because there is always not enough space on the desktop. Definitely +++ in the karma of the creators of switching power supplies :)
More photos of the menus soldering station:
Photos
Useful information: to switch from Chinese to English, you need to press the encoder (3 seconds), find the 15th item in the menu. I found it by touch :)
According to measurements with a multimeter, the difference between the real and displayed temperatures ranges from 7-10 degrees.
Epilogue
I love collecting things with my own hands. But I can’t understand the “screw two screws, insert it here, be proud – now you’re a DIVISIONER” style kits. Still, the “do it yourself” ideology implies some kind of complexity, interest, process in the end, from which you and you have fun.
This is undoubtedly the same case. But it's obvious not a manufacturer's concept, this is the result of inconsistency in production and insufficient attention to detail. If your file is “smoking” from the opportunity to finish something, solve a problem, repair it, I can recommend purchasing such a set, especially since the station did not raise any complaints from me regarding the electronics and software. And I enjoyed the assembly process. From now on, it takes the place of the main soldering iron.
Otherwise, it is better to take a closer look at other sets, or, what would be more accurate, at already assembled stations.
Product rating: 6/10. Minus two points for a dubious soldering iron, two more for problems with the case. That's all I wanted to say. Thanks for your attention :)
The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.
Previously, in our community, several STM32 controllers for soldering guns were already considered, and independently assembled by a respected
, hair dryer, from separate components on the same MK. I want to talk about a ready-made device from China, which I purchased with my hard-earned American money.
Parameters stated on the seller’s website “KSGER T12 Store” was previously “Girl’s Electric Tool Store”:
manufacturer KSGER; MK STM32; 1.3” OLED display; hair dryer power 700W; warm-up time 10 seconds; power supply AC220V; size: 150*88*38mm
Solution.
First, about why I decided to buy this hair dryer. More than a year ago, by chance, I went to a friend’s workshop and saw that he had a working soldering iron with T12 tips. When I asked how he soldered. The acquaintance replied that the only way to compare after the 900th series was when, after the Zhiguli, he switched to a German or Japanese foreign car. I didn’t believe it at first, but when I figured it out, thanks to sancho1971, and tried it myself, my AIDA 858D soldering iron was left without work. I kept it because of the hairdryer. A new STM32 soldering iron on T12 tips, or rather its controller, is located on top at 858m. This year, a friend of mine showed me a hair dryer from the same manufacturer and the same design that I bought myself a T12 soldering station. And he didn’t tell me how the hair dryer works, he just gave it to me for two days. I liked it very much. After such a test, I no longer wanted to use 858m. My friend bought his hair dryer in the summer for $82. I immediately decided that I wouldn’t take it for that price, but when the price was dropped a little, I decided to buy it, taking into account the discounts on AliExpress and Cashback.
COMPLETENESS and packaging.
The hairdryer was packed in a hard cardboard box. Inside the box was the controller itself with an internal power supply, a hair dryer handle, a power cable and attachments for a hair dryer. The controller is packaged in two layers. The first is internal, this is a single-layer bubble wrap, but on top there was a four-layer additional package made of the same material, which had to be unfolded with additional effort, overcoming layers of adhesive tape. This additional outer packaging It deserves special attention, as it is made of very high quality, and it performs its functions of protecting the hair dryer controller during transportation from the other end of the planet perfectly. The hair dryer handle, on the contrary, apart from the general cardboard box, is not protected by anything, and is simply inserted into a regular plastic bag. The power cable is twisted with a regular wire retainer, and the attachments are in a regular string package. Everything arrived without scratches or wrinkled parts. 
The hair dryer controller housing, in the photo, lies on the outer thick multilayer packaging, 3 cm high. An empty space in the box is filled with two air cushions. It was the first time I saw such pads. Good decision, and they weigh less than a pile of Chinese newspapers, which usually fill the voids in boxes with goods, and the type of goods is more impressive. The pad has a valve for inflating air with a needle, perhaps similar to a football needle. Many craftsmen will find this pad useful on the farm. 
Don't be surprised by the darkened heater. It was new and shiny, which suggests that the hair dryer was not tested for maximum heat before shipping. I checked, and heated the hairdryer to 550°C for just a few seconds. But this was enough for the shiny metal to become a little darker.
The weight of the controller with a hairdryer handle, thin packaging and nozzles is 539 grams. 
The weight of the cable is 164 grams. I would like to note that the cable, externally good quality, and has a length of 1.7 meters. 
The hairdryer comes with 4 nozzles with diameters of 2mm, 5mm, 7mm and 11mm. Display glass is closed protective film. The hair dryer handle and the controller are connected by a one-piece silicone, fairly flexible 8-core cable. 
On the back wall of the controller there is a power cable connector combined with a fuse block and a power switch. A little on the side, there is a separate round red button to turn on the hair dryer heater.
CONTROLLER
Aluminum, with a decorative black coating, like the entire body, the front panel of the hair dryer controller is standard for many products under the KSGER brand. On the left side is the cable outlet for the hair dryer handle, on the right is the controller encoder handle, combined with a function button, and a multifunctional OLED display with protective glass in the center of the composition. The display has three lines, which, in addition to the clock, can also display various information about the status of the entire station. Including the temperature inside the hair dryer handle or inside the aluminum hair dryer controller (in this case 27°C), which, for reasons unknown to me, is called the “cold junction point temperature”. Which sounds very “scientific”, but does not change the essence of the fact, the thermistor actually shows the temperature inside the handle, before the fan and heater, since it is physically located under the snail fan and does not enter the air flow. Theoretically, if you leave the controller at home, and the hair dryer handle itself, for example, through a window, take it outside into severe frost, but not below -9°C, or bring it into a sauna, with a temperature of up to +99°C, then the MK, inside The hair dryer controller, theoretically, should take into account the temperature difference. But personally, I won’t do this... And it’s not at all clear how the temperature of the “cold end” can be measured inside the hair dryer controller, what should be compensated in this case?.. Anyway, the temperature of the air flow is measured by a thermocouple inside the hair dryer, at the end of the heater, near output nozzle. It seems to me that this measurement of the “cold end - “cold junction point”” is an atavism of MK programming, a remnant of code from a soldering station on T12 tips with a similar MK - STM32.
The screws that secure the panels are screwed on neatly, apparently, without fanaticism, which is why they have no dents or scratches from screwdrivers. Let's leave the multifunction display alone for a while and see what the manufacturers of this device have prepared for us, inside the device itself. I wonder what we pay hard-earned money for! In order not to disturb such cabinet perfection, I unscrewed the screws, tightly fitting into their grooves, with a screwdriver, through a thin stretch film. You need to reassemble it in the same way, and tighten it without excessive force, so as not to damage the thread. But for those who, nevertheless, overdo it and break the threads in the case, do not despair, there are screws of the same model and color, only longer. And the thread in the body can be 2x75mm = 150mm... 
Inside, everything turned out to be not very scary. It could have been much worse. 8 wires from the hair dryer + 5 wires from the controller to the power control board + 3 AC220V power supply wires + 2 wires from the heater switch button + 2 wires from the backup battery for the clock, creating a slightly chaotic picture of “wire laying”. Which is not fatal for the device, but not very pleasing to the eye. In addition, the mass free space in the longitudinal length of the body. It is not clear why, having a standard 130mm long case, which is designed to fit a T12 soldering iron, they put a 150mm case in a short case. I think that there should be both 130mm and 150mm cases, for those who already have T12 soldering irons, or laboratory power supplies in the same case. The power board is inserted into the side guide grooves, and fixed in the center with hard glue, which is more like epoxy resin. The battery is glued to the bottom of the case with the same glue. It is noteworthy that the 8 wires coming from the hair dryer handle are additionally soldered into crimp contacts. The ends of 8 wires in places of additional soldering are covered with the remains of some kind of flux, which has eaten into the insulation by 10-12mm. This can be corrected by resoldering 8 wires for those who want perfection inside the case, or decide to install the GX12-16 8pin connector, as I did sancho1971. 
Traditionally, assemblers from the Middle Kingdom do not think much about attaching this type of controller to the front panel, and screw the encoders to the bend of the PCB, and, sometimes, to the bend of the glass of the OLED display. The deflection occurs due to an additional gasket in the form of a 1mm protruding protective glass. This situation can easily be “treated” with a regular 1mm plastic spacer, 
between the encoder and the front panel. 
Installed gasket. At the same time, do not forget about the additional 1mm spacer inside the rotary knob to compensate for the reduction in the length of the encoder rod. The gasket in the button (handle) itself is needed so that there is a small gap for the pressed button to move. 
The power switch is made using “progressive Chinese technology - OR”, when either zero or phase is turned off. Of course, this is not entirely correct, and does not entirely comply with safety standards, but strangely enough, all devices with such power work, and most consumers do not pay attention to it. There is also play in the power supply itself in the hole in the rear panel, which can be corrected with a drop of glue. 
The installation of the power board is traditional for products in such cases; it is held in the side guide grooves of the case, and is additionally secured with strong glue. After removing the mounting adhesive, re-installation can be done using 0.4mm thick transparent plastic with the production of additional insulating forms. 
Or you can glue it again. I prefer to make additional insulation from 0.4mm transparent plastic, which is easy to manufacture, easy to install, easy to remove if necessary, and at the same time, prevents the power board from moving inside the case, and, finally, eliminates the play of the power supply. I will not dwell further on the power board and its circuit, because a review of it is already on our website.
Plastic insulation
Additional Information
Suitable plastic in everyday life can be found and used from round candy packaging, such or similar ones, regardless of the manufacturer. 
From plastic packaging I cut a blank 83mm wide and 170-180mm long 
I install the power board approximately in the center of the bottom of the case. For now, I use the lid for marking, since the battery is glued to the bottom. 
and put two marks on the plastic. 
I keep the area under the power board the same width 83mm, but further on, in both directions, from the place for the board, I cut off 2mm from 4 sides along the workpiece. 
It is very IMPORTANT to make marks on the plastic, not with a knife, but with a sharp, blunt object. I drew with tweezers. Size 10mm, 15mm, 10mm from the edge of the power board mark. The rectangular shape can be fixed with double-sided adhesive tape. 
It should be a rectangular shape 10mm x 15mm. 
Let's see if everything is done correctly. 
15mm form - limiter is installed near the front panel. 
But the second form, 10mm x 25mm, is made on the same blank, but in the other direction, relative to the center, and in the same plane as the first. The 10mm x 25mm mold should be located near the power supply.
Another technological know-how is hidden at the bottom of the case under the board of the controller itself. This small rigid gasket simultaneously performs several functions of fastening and limiting the stroke of the curved PCB of the board. When removing and installing connectors on the board, it slightly restrains the board itself and keeps the board from moving along the encoder axis (prevents it from turning). It does not deteriorate during installation and dismantling and is a device for “reusable” use.
The hair dryer controller is made on the STM32F102C8T6 MK. Blue OLED display 1.3". The board is made in the T12 V.2.1S form factor, but has a little more external connections. Firmware version V.1.02. The soldering is neat, even the remaining flux was wiped off without much effort. After installing a 1mm spacer on the encoder axis, the board became parallel to the front panel, and the OLED display glass neatly pressed against the protective glass, without a gap and without effort.
There were no problems with the reverse installation after inspecting the controller board and installing the gasket. After installing the insulating gasket, the play in the power supply disappeared, and when the controller shook, there were no sounds (knocks).
HANDLE-HAIRDRYER
Now it's time to look at the hair dryer handle. 
I looked at the inscription “HOT” on the protective casing of the hair dryer, and remembered a film from my Soviet childhood, “Wagtail Army”, where on the white fabric flag there was a proletarian inscription - “RED”, well, according to the director, it was problematic at that time in the tsarist Russia find red cloth. I thought, what if, apart from the “HOT” sign, there is no hot air... Lucky, there is!!! And this hair dryer produces not bad hot air. But more on that later.
The design of the attachments was somewhat unexpected for me. 
The fact is that on the site there was a photo of a hairdryer handle, such as in the photo on the left. The nozzle on the new design of the hair dryer (pictured on the right) is difficult to put on, because it needs to be inserted inside the outer casing, and only then turned to the right to fix it. And so, how the nozzles themselves through low quality final processing, are a little “flared”, then without finishing them with a file, it is very difficult to dress them, and some samples are even impossible. In fact, I have hair dryer handles of both designs for the same 21mm nozzles with a double groove for fastening. On the hair dryer on the left in the photo, the attachments are very easy to put on and take off. Users write that spontaneous disconnection also happens in this design. In the “improved” design, which is in the photo on the right, the attachments are difficult to put on, but also difficult to remove. Perhaps this design (on the right in the photo) is also due to the fact that it creates a double “lock” and, through loose gaps between the hair dryer nozzle and the cap, allows air not to pass backwards, as in the hair dryer in the photo on the left, but forward. Judging by the fact that buyers in their reviews on the seller’s website describe the same hairdryer handles, this cannot simply be a defect. Perhaps this is a trend, as the common people say, “TREND”... 
Somehow it is put on, as in the joke about the Martians, “with the help of a chisel and some mother,” and holds on when shaking the handle, and even the attachments do not fall off on their own, but evoke a strange feeling of incomprehensibility of such a design. 
With the same nozzles and different fastening designs, 
Both hair dryer handles are almost the same length with attached attachments. 
It can be seen that the ends of the nozzles are slightly different in size. I don't think it will affect the airflow much. I will not conduct research, because we are looking at a ready-made hair dryer, with a hair dryer handle already attached (pictured on the right). 
Although, to complete the impression, it would be nice to compare the third option with a different design, on the clamp clamp of the hair dryer nozzle. Those who are used to it do the same... Now I understand that the clamp attachment from the AIDA 858D hair dryer can be quickly and easily removed and replaced with another one, gently holding the ends of the clamps with pliers. But this hair dryer will not work quickly until the nozzle cools down to a temperature at which it can only be removed with your hands. Additional tool You can only damage the hair dryer and the nozzle. For those who need to frequently change hair dryer attachments, you need to think about some kind of glove, for example, a construction glove with leather inserts, or a completely radical one for welders. 
There is nothing unexpected inside, everything is like all economical hair dryers. Until the end I hoped that maybe the motor in the cochlea was more powerful... 
But a miracle did not happen, and the motor turned out to be of average power, 0.15A, although it could have been 0.09A. Fastening the halves with simple self-tapping screws indicates that the hairdryer is budget-friendly, but not at all at a budget price! 
The length of the 8-core silicone cable is 0.85 m. The cable is soft and looks solid. It would not be bad to install an 8-pin connector for the cable, for the money spent.
CONTROL. INITIAL SCREEN.
After connecting the power cable and turning on the power button on the rear panel, the hair dryer fan turns on for a couple of seconds, a short signal is heard and the OLED display lights up with a blue glow. For convenience, let's call these display readings the initial screen. 
Year, month, date, day of week – top row. Hours, minutes, seconds - the middle line, and the heater power is turned off: the heater temperature is 24°C, the temperature inside the hair dryer handle on the bottom line is also 24°C. The display shows the temperature in the room in which the hair dryer itself was located. As the hair dryer operates and heats up, the temperature readings will change. And, since the OLED display is multifunctional, the readings of its three lines will also change, depending on the different functions of the hair dryer. The following figure shows a block diagram of the display readings in different modes. For ease of perception, I have marked the transitions in different modes different colors shooter And the display readings, in the figure, are marked with numbers in the upper left corner. 
From this position (initial screen) No. 1, by certain manipulations of the encoder knob (pressing a button, turning the knob or pressing with a turn), we can enter:
No. 2 (Temperature), to temperature setting mode;
No. 3 (Fan Speed), into the mode for adjusting the fan speed, or, if you wish, adjusting the air flow;
No. 4 (Setup Menu), in the settings menu;
No. 5 (Presets), in the menu of user-configurable temperature and air flow settings G1-G5.
Now in detail:
Temperature. Turning the encoder knob to the right enters the mode for setting the temperature of the heater, and accordingly the heated air from 100°C to 550°C. Set and change by turning the encoder knob in both directions. Return to the initial screen occurs automatically 3 seconds after setting the desired temperature. 
Fan Speed. Briefly press the encoder button to enter the mode for adjusting the fan speed. Displayed as a percentage of the maximum fan (turbine) rotation speed, and, accordingly, air flow. The value is expressed as a percentage of the maximum speed and can be set from 20% to 100%. Return to the initial screen occurs automatically 3 seconds after setting the desired speed.
SETUP MENU
Setup Menu. Pressing the encoder button and holding it for more than 3 seconds enters the settings menu, consisting of 13 items. Moving through menu items is done by turning the encoder in both directions. Exit to the initial screen is performed either from the 13th item of the same settings menu - 13.Exit, or by pressing the encoder button again and holding it for more than 3 seconds. 
01.Stepping. Sets the cost of one click of turning the encoder. TempStep is set in degrees Celsius from 1°C to 50°C. FlowStep is set in percentages from 1% to 20%. Exiting the mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds. 
02.Cold end. Sets the initial temperature inside the hair dryer or inside the hair dryer controller body using a reference thermometer. Mode: selects the temperature measurement source NTC measurement with a thermistor inside the hair dryer (handle); CPU measurement by a microcontroller inside the hair dryer controller housing. Temp sets the initial measured temperature. Displayed in degrees Celsius from -9°C to +99°C. Exiting the mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds. 
03.Buzzer. Turns playback on and off sound signals hair dryer controller. ON The sound is turned on. OFF The sound is turned off. Exiting the mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds. 
04.OpPrefer. Changes how the heater temperature and airflow (fan speed) are controlled. TempFirst sets the priority for temperature adjustment. In this case, the heater temperature is regulated by simply turning the encoder from the primary screen mode. FlowFirst switches between airflow (fan speed) and temperature control. In this case, the air flow (fan speed) is controlled by simply turning the encoder from the primary screen mode, and the temperature is adjusted by pressing the encoder button and further rotating it. Exiting the mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds. 
05.Scr save. Controls the OLED display saving mode. Prevents its premature burnout (loss of brightness). Switch turns on and off the display saving mode: ON is enabled, OFF is disabled. DlyTime sets the delay time for the display save mode to turn on. Displayed in minutes and has a range from 1 minute to 60 minutes. Exit from the installation mode to the initial screen by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds. 
In Scr save (screen saver) mode - enable saving of the display (screen), on dark screen two vertical dots light up, blinking in time with the seconds, and move slowly, chaotically across the screen. The mode can be exited by any action with the encoder knob or button. 
06.Password. Installs password protection to control a soldering iron. Switch turns the device control password mode on and off: ON is enabled, OFF is disabled. LockTime is the time after which password protection is turned on. Set in minutes from 1 minute to 60 minutes. Password sets a 4-digit numeric password. Each of the password digits can change the value from 0 to 9 by turning the encoder. Exiting the password setting mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds. There is one caveat: I did not set password protection because I did not find how to reset it if the password is forgotten. It may be reset by disconnecting the battery, or what could be worse, by resoldering the 24C32N eeprom, with loss of access to the controller itself without entering a security revocation... 
07.Language. Sets the display language to Chinese or English. Exiting the mode to the initial screen occurs after selecting the language and pressing the encoder button. 
08.Sys info. Shows version software(firmware). The bottom line shows the approximate value and frequency of the AC power supply. Exiting the mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds. 
09.DateTime. Sets the time and date of the watch. Confirm installation confirmation. Set by turning the encoder. Switching to the next range is done by pressing the encoder button. Exiting the clock and date setting mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds, or by pressing the encoder button in Cancel mode. 
10.RTC Adj. Mode for setting the real-time clock accuracy correction. Day Error correction of clock accuracy based on exact time signals for 10 days. It is calculated by the difference in the accuracy of the move over 10 days (arithmetic average). The error value in seconds + or - for 10 days is divided by 10 (number of days), and we get the value in seconds, which is set as the daily error Day Error. The value can be either positive or negative. 
11.RTC Init. Reset correction settings. Confirm reset confirmation. Switching to the next range is done by turning the encoder. Exit from the installation mode to the initial screen is done by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds, or by pressing the encoder button in Cancel mode. 
12.Init. Reset all settings to original. Confirm reset confirmation. Switching to the next range is done by turning the encoder. The installation mode is exited by long pressing the encoder button for more than 3 seconds, or by pressing the encoder button in Cancel mode. 
13.Exit. Exits the settings menu to the initial screen.
PRESETS. Presets G1-G5.
We enter this mode by pressing the encoder button and simultaneously turning the pressed button to the right. 
This mode must be entered after the desired heating temperature and flow rate have been set. In this case, we set the heater temperature to 270°C, or any of your choice, and the air flow speed, also of your choice, in %, for example, 60% of the air flow speed. Then press the encoder button, and without releasing it, rotate the knob to the right. In the Presets mode of storing presets, by turning the encoder knob, select the SAVE position, and confirm by briefly pressing the encoder button. The desired values are memorized in turn from G1 to G5. At the sixth value, G1 will be overwritten, and further in a circle. After pressing the SAVE button, the display returns to its original position. This records the five preset values G1-G5.
To quickly select one of the 5 user-recorded settings for working with a hair dryer, you need to enter the settings mode (PRESETS) from the initial screen, select one of the 5 G1-G5, and press the encoder button. This returns you to the original screen, but the controller is already set to the selected heater temperature and selected airflow.
WORKING WITH A HAIRDRYER. DISPLAY INDICATIONS.
The operating procedure is as follows:
1. Turn on the power. The round red button is off for now.
2. Set the temperature SET: 170 ° C and the air flow FLOW: 80% (the bottom line POFF: 24 ° C shows that the heater is turned off, and its temperature of 24 ° C is the same as in the room and in the handle of the hair dryer on the thermistor) . We press the round red button on the back panel of the hair dryer controller, and the hair dryer starts working. On the right top corner 100% shows the operation of the PWM controller, and with it the heater. The middle line, large numbers, is the air flow temperature (it should rise to the set 170°C. The middle line on the right shows the real time clock in the format hours: minutes (without seconds).
3. When the set temperature reaches 170°C, a short signal sounds and the PWM controller starts working to maintain the required temperature, and the % value drops, in this example, before 18%. After the signal, the clock in the middle line begins to work in stopwatch mode (minutes: seconds), and shows the operating time of the hair dryer in the mode of maintaining the set temperature of 170°C. It can be seen that the temperature in the handle has risen slightly to 25°C. We use the hairdryer for the required time (watch in stopwatch mode).
4. By pressing the red round button again, turn off the hair dryer after finishing work. The top line displays POWER DOWN and at the same time the voltage supply to the heater is turned off. In this case, the air flow decreases to a maximum of FLOW: 100% and the stopwatch is switched to real-time clock mode. The heater temperature decreases, cooled by a flow of cold, unheated air.
5. When the heater cools down to 99°C, the hair dryer fan turns off, the display returns to its initial state (primary screen). The top line is the date and day of the week, the middle line is hours: minutes: seconds, the bottom line is POFF:99°C – the temperature of the heater and 26°C – the temperature inside the hair dryer handle.
Additionally, I would like to add that you can change the temperature of the heater and the air flow at any time during the operation of the hair dryer, you will only need to wait a little before setting the desired temperature. Moreover, the hair dryer heats up much faster than it cools down.
STANDBY MODE. SBY. MAGNETIC SENSOR.
The handle of the soldering gun, in the center of the structure, is equipped with a reed switch, a special glass device that looks like a small light bulb, but works to close the internal contacts when small magnets located inside the stand for the hair dryer handle are placed in a magnetic field. Therefore, the operating cycle of a hair dryer using a special stand with magnets differs slightly in display readings from operation without a magnetic stand. 
The SBY mode is added - Standby Mode. The operating procedure of the hair dryer is as follows:
1. We supply power to the hair dryer without pressing the round red button. POFF:22°C heater temperature 22°C, hair dryer handle temperature is also 22°C, the same as in the room. The heater temperature may be higher if the heater has not yet completely cooled down.
2. Place the hair dryer handle into the magnetic stand and press the red round button. We set the desired temperature SBY: 300°C and air flow FLOW: 80%. Simultaneously with the red button turning on, the middle line begins to show the heater temperature and real time without seconds. PWM controller disabled 0%.
3. Remove the hair dryer from the stand, and the hair dryer begins its work. The PWM controller turns on at full power 100% and the fan runs at 80% of the maximum air flow. The heater temperature rises to 170°C, real time clock 09:37.
4. At a heater temperature of 250°C, the PWM continues to operate at full heating power of 100%.
5. When the temperature is close to the set one, in our case 286°C, the PWM controller begins to operate at less than full power of 60%, gradually slowing down the heating rate.
6. When the set temperature reaches 300°C, the PWM controller operates in the 30% temperature maintenance mode, a signal sounds when the set temperature has been reached, and the watch switches to the stopwatch start mode.
7. The hair dryer operates in the specified mode for 00:18 seconds. PWM 23%, 300°C.
8. Place the hair dryer handle into the magnetic stand without turning off the red button. The fan sets the air flow to the maximum - 100%, the heater is completely turned off PWM 0%, the stopwatch goes into real time clock display mode, the temperature drops to 246°C.
9. Heater temperature drops to 143°C, PWM 0%, air flow 100%.
10. Heater temperature drops to 115°C, PWM 0%, air flow 100%.
11. When the heater temperature reaches 90°C, the fan turns off completely. The hairdryer is now in SBY ready mode.
12. After turning off the air cooling of the heater, the heater temperature rises slightly to 130°C, this is residual heat. The hair dryer is in SBY standby mode, and will begin a new cycle of operation after lifting the hair dryer handle from the magnetic stand. The hair dryer enters SBY mode automatically every time you place the hair dryer in the magnetic stand.
HEATING TESTING.
To check the compliance of the set temperatures and air flow, I set up a kind of test bench. In addition to the test hair dryer, I needed:
1. Heat-protective blue mat to protect the table from heat from a hairdryer.
2. Multimeter with thermocouple temperature measurement mode.
3. Office binder for fixing the thermocouple in the center of the air flow.
4. Tape measure for measuring the distance from the hair dryer nozzle to the thermocouple of the multimeter.
I would like to immediately outline the scope of my testing (experiments) with the purchased hair dryer. I in no way pretend to be a metrological service!!! And my measurements are not accurate, but were carried out only to give a relative idea of the capabilities of the hair dryer. 
I chose the air flow value as 80% of the maximum, since having little experience using another soldering gun, I did not raise the air flow value to the maximum value, so as not to accidentally blow off small SMD parts. I also used only one nozzle with a 7mm nozzle, because I like it the most.
Additional Information
1. At a heater temperature of 100°C and an air flow of 80%, the thermocouple was heated through a 7mm nozzle to 100°C at a distance of 20mm from the end of the nozzle. 
2. At a heater temperature of 200°C and an air flow of 80%, the thermocouple was heated through a 7mm nozzle to 200°C at a distance of 10mm from the end of the nozzle, despite all my movements of the thermocouple and search for the center of the air flow. 
3. I decided not to move the thermocouple and the hair dryer handle relative to each other, but only change the temperature. With a heater temperature of 300°C and an air flow of 80%, the thermocouple was heated through a 7mm nozzle to 309°C at a fixed distance of 10mm from the end of the nozzle. 
4. At a heater temperature of 350°C and an air flow of 80%, the thermocouple was heated through a 7mm nozzle to 371°C at a fixed distance of 10mm from the end of the nozzle. 
5. The upward trend in temperature continued. With a heater temperature of 350°C and an air flow of 80%, the thermocouple was heated through a 7mm nozzle to 386°C at a fixed distance of 10mm from the end of the nozzle. 
6. At a heater temperature of 400°C and an air flow of 80%, the thermocouple was heated through a 7mm nozzle to 432°C at a fixed distance of 10mm from the end of the nozzle. 
7. The upward trend in temperature continued. With further heating of the thermocouple with a heater of 400°C and an air flow of 80%, the thermocouple was heated through a 7mm nozzle to 442°C at a fixed distance of 10mm from the end of the nozzle. True, after a couple of minutes the growth stopped, and the thermometer readings remained unchanged. 
8. At the end of the experiments, I decided to achieve desired value thermocouple readings by moving the thermocouple itself relative to the end of the nozzle of the hair dryer nozzle. A stable value of about 400°C turned out to be at a distance of 30mm from the end of the hair dryer nozzle to the thermocouple.
Based on the results, we can conclude that set value hair dryer temperature is relevant at a distance of 10-20mm from the hair dryer nozzle. It has an approximate value at this distance, but is measured quite accurately inside the hair dryer handle with its thermocouple at the end of the heater. And, at the same time, it is monitored stably, regardless of the flow and nozzles. The hair dryer on the STM32 MK is the most advanced in terms of accuracy of maintaining the set temperature on the thermocouple near the nozzle nozzle, due to its stable feedback thermocouples with a heater, but really cannot replace an IFC soldering station. When compared with cars, there are different brands with different capabilities and parameters, but the result depends more on the experience and skill of its driver. So in our case, we need experience in using and studying the different capabilities of the hair dryer itself. Personally, I like his work. After AIDA 858D, it’s like transferring from a Zhiguli to a Ford. But not Mercedes, because there are a lot of questions about the MK firmware, which significantly narrows the capabilities of the hardware, at least in protecting against the fan stopping, or the heater itself catching fire.
POWER CONSUMPTION.
A hair dryer is a heating device, and is inherently designed to consume a lot of electrical energy. I am sure that such a measurement is a very important indicator for users. Fortunately, Chinese manufacturers have provided us with cheap and more or less accurate power meters. 
I used one of these to measure the power consumption of a hairdryer. Previously, I measured the power of incandescent lamps with it, and the wattmeter readings completely coincided with the power of the lamps. So, I trust this device a little. 
With the hair dryer at maximum 100% heating and at maximum air flow, the power consumption was 642 watts. 
When maintaining the heating of the hair dryer in a given temperature range, at which energy consumption decreases (PWM) 18%, the power consumption was 268 Watt.
In idle mode, with the internal power supply working, the consumption is 5 Watt.
Performance. Air flow.
All manufacturers of such hairdryer handles (not controllers for them) indicate that they are designed for an air flow of 120 liters per minute. Apparently, the first such turbine hair dryers were like this, and they had 0.24A snail fans, if anyone has identified more, then respond. After that, saving everything began, and, well, deceiving buyers - they began installing motors at 0.15A and even 0.09A. Therefore, I have the opinion that the air flow of this hair dryer is less than 120 l/m, because there is a 0.15A fan. In practice, I personally have enough flow, and what I have, I set the maximum to 80%; if it’s 100%, then the small details scatter. Unfortunately, I cannot measure the air flow because I have nothing.
A hair dryer based on the STM32 MK with such software is quite progressive in terms of the accuracy of maintaining the set temperature on the thermocouple near the nozzle nozzle, due to the stable feedback of the thermocouple with the heater. I think that anyone who decides to purchase such a hairdryer will not regret their decision. Although the possibility of manufacturing defects is present, sellers of products KSGER "Girl's Electric Tool Store" after my publication was renamed to "KSGER T12 Store" cooperate with their customers and solve all minor problems regarding the product. Yes, it is true that you can buy a larger and cheaper hair dryer, or a smaller and simpler one, but, unfortunately, there is no easy-to-use alternative yet. Is that how? sancho1971, assemble the same one yourself, from components, in order to enjoy the assembly itself.
Pros:
Assembled on MK STM32. The author of the software is the same as the one who wrote the software for the T12 soldering iron.
The compactness of the body and its low weight.
Convenience of control with one encoder knob, quickly and clearly.
Great information content of the OLED display.
Extra hours on your desk.
Backup battery.
The design of the case is like that of most soldering irons with T12 tips.
Good power cable.
Soft silicone 8-core cable from the controller to the hair dryer itself.
Installation errors are easily corrected.
Minuses:
Price.
The design of fastening the nozzles of the hair dryer handle, although some may like it.
Controller power socket play.
Lack of connector GX12-16 8-wire hair dryer cable.
The kit does not include a plastic magnetic hair dryer handle holder.
Afterword or thoughts about sad things.
I decided to add a little after some comments. I just couldn’t understand why some respected people constantly say that this hair dryer is bad, because it doesn’t have thermal profiles for different attachments, etc. They also advised me, and to the point, that I should conduct a test with complete nozzles at the rate of 1/2 the distance depending on the diameter of the nozzle of the nozzle, supposedly following the advice from the Hakko manual. I decided to read the manual, and was faced with the fact that I needed to register and enter the product code, so I stopped there, but downloaded the product catalog for Europe 2018. I read about an amazing thing. There I saw and 
thermal profiles and attachments, and vacuum pullers, and I understood what people want from such an expensive hair dryer with a clock, for as much as $68.55!!! I wanted to know the prices for Hakko FR-811. I searched, and I can’t even express my feelings, I was simply dumbfounded... From everything, from the equipment, its variety, functionality, and especially from the PRICES!!! 
Moreover, the laptop is not included in the price. :)
Then I asked how much one nozzle costs... 
We all felt sorry for the fact that we are normal people, but so poor that we cannot buy normal equipment, but we want the Chinese to do everything for us for pennies, but with high quality, and a lot.
The purchase of this set was made after reading different reviews about STM32 stations, the review was especially influential sancho1971, which describes everything in great detail and to which I will constantly refer here. For what sancho1971 Thank you very much to you.
So, having studied the material, I realized what I was missing in my station, also on T12, but on a simple, almost folk controller. Like this
Namely:
1. Automatic compensation of cold joint temperature in the range of 9÷99 ℃.
2. PID temperature control, maintaining stability ± 2℃.
3. For all types of HAKKO T12 tips (84 items) it is possible to carry out
individual 3-point calibration with storage of PID parameters in a non-volatile
memory. There are also 6 user settings. It is possible to create your own list
used stings. This is perhaps the most useful, I’m tired of twisting the stand for each sting.
4. Automatic transition to standby mode (you can set the time 1÷60 minutes) with a decrease in the temperature of the tip to the set value.
5. Automatic transition to sleep mode (soft shutdown) (time can be set 1÷60 minutes).
The decision was made, but there was one obstacle: there was no desire to contact TaoBao. After a short search and Ali, two sellers were found. It was decided to order everything from one, firstly cheaper, secondly as a set. By the way, he appeared completely a new version controller, but the seller could not explain how it differs from this one.
Like this
Of course, I understand that it probably costs more, but the quest with TaoBao was not at all interesting to me.
And then a friend asked me to look at the building for the station on Ali, and we decided to combine the order. We take a kit with a plastic case + an aluminum case; I already had a folk power supply in stock. The total at that time with the coupon, rounded up, was $56 without a block + $7 block. A friend took the case for $9. Total $54.
Set 
Switch with fuse 
Wires and connectors 
The controller is version 2.0, there is quartz, the clock works, but there are no batteries included, you will have to buy more. 
The case, self-adhesive legs are included in the kit, and the protective glass is in one copy. 
The front panel is light, I had to drill a hole, like sancho1971, otherwise the board is installed crookedly. 
The kit included 3 tips to choose from, except BCM2, I chose 
Handle, I like this one, and I’m used to it 
, maybe later I’ll buy HAKKO FX-9501
I’ll dwell on the handle in more detail, it’s certainly not put together so well, and the design is economical 
Although version 2.2 
Thermistor and mercury switch are present
The power supply, as I already said, was used by the people
Not because I had it, but because I bought one on Ali like the one in the review sancho1971 I didn't succeed, but it is placed in this building like original, in special guides on the inside of the case.
Now such blocks have appeared on sale, but their price is too high for now.
Modified according to recommendations kirich
For which I also thank him very much.
Everything fits perfectly into the case, but there are slight difficulties with the power supply, if you put it on racks then top cover rests on the radiator. As a temporary solution, I put insulating pads on it and stuck it on double-sided tape, it holds very tightly.
Assembly is very simple, drill a 4 hole in the front panel for the encoder protrusion, then connect all the connectors, all wires are included, the power supply has connectors for 220 and +24, the main thing is not to mix it up + And - to the controller power supply. Everything worked right away, as they say, out of the box, only the menu was in Chinese, switch point 13.
Next, menu setup and tip calibration 
For menus, settings, tip calibrations, read the review sancho1971 everything is described in detail there; I see no point in repeating myself.
By the way, I got a one-color screen 
, and in the review sancho1971 two-color.
Pros:
1. Simple, convenient control
2. Informative display
3. A large number of customizable functions via menu
4. PID - software maintenance of the set temperature
5. Software calibration of cold joint temperature
6. Software calibration of tip temperature at 3 points for 84 standard HAKKO tips and 6 custom tips
7. Custom list of stings
Minuses:
1. Probably the price
2. Careless assembly of the controller, careless assembly of the handle (but these are rather particular)
3. The supply voltage does not display correctly at +24 on the screen +18
The plans are to modify the power supply mounts, change the display to 1.3, modify the handle, or buy a HAKKO FX-9501.
Gratitude sancho1971 for the excellent review and for the additional review on the remodel
Thank you all for your attention.
Inspired by the review sancho1971 I finished the station a little, set the screen to 1.3 instead of 0.96 and new firmware. The screen was hard to solder and as a result I just bit it off so as not to spoil the board.
Like this with a big screen 
Special thanks to salamatin, for help with codes and diagrams. 
A new version of the soldering station controller is on sale Ve2.1S STM32 with OLED1.3. I decided to find out what kind of “beast” it was, and at the same time assemble a soldering station for my brother.
What came out of this under CAT (a lot of text and photos - traffic)
In stores selling KSGER products (as in Ali, and on), for about the second month now, a new controller for the Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3 soldering station has been on sale.
I was looking at it for purchase. I wanted to know what the Chinese inventors and innovators created so new. And then my brother, aka , asked me to build him a soldering station. And as if hearing our wishes, the store itself offered to take this controller for review. To say that it took me a long time to decide whether to take it or not is to say nothing. The controller was immediately purchased for a symbolic $2 and within 3 weeks was delivered by courier to my home address.
The package is an unassuming white mailing bag with postal information 
It contains a cardboard box with the KSGER logo and the kit number 
Box dimensions 17x9x11cm 
Weight 218 grams 
Inside the kit itself 
Everything is packed very well, the components are tightly secured with crumpled paper and bubble wrap.
So, what arrived: 
- soldering station controller board Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3 + 2 cables with connectors for connecting a power supply and a GX12-5 connector
- HAKKO FX-9501 soldering iron handle assembly
- connector GX12-5
- and as a bonus from the store - soldering tip KSGER T12-BL
Let's look at the arriving components in more detail.
Let's start with the board soldering station controller Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3
The board has dimensions 62x30mm 
The width is 2mm wider than the v2.1S board
Double-sided installation.
On one side there are: controller, EEPROM, voltage stabilization circuits and power part, as well as connectors.
On the reverse side there is an OLED_1.3" display and an encoder.
Controller board in detail
Controller circuit diagram 
Mounting side board 
The heart of the board is the U1 controller
Stabilized power supply for the microcontroller and its wiring is provided by the U2 IC in the SOT-223 package, output voltage 3.3 volts
The signal from the soldering tip thermocouple is amplified by the operational amplifier U3
To store PID coefficients, the soldering tip uses EEPROM U4
The power part includes:
- soldering iron heater control channel: MOSFET Q1 and transistor Q2 controlling it
- pump motor/solenoid valve control channel: MOSFET Q3
A 3V lithium battery is used for additional power supply to the controller. It is either connected to a connector on the board or soldered directly into the board.
To update the firmware on the printed circuit board there are contacts of the SWD connector, its wiring C-D-G-V= Clock, Data, GND, +3.3V.
A 1.3” OLED display is used to display information.
An encoder is used to control the controller.
The soldering quality is good, the SMD elements are located quite evenly, but in the places where the encoder and display are soldered there is flux that has not been washed off.
Connection diagram 
The Ve2.1S soldering station controller board supports JBC and T12 soldering tips.
When using JBC soldering tips, it is necessary to cut the printed path between the contacts 
If after this there is a need to use T12 soldering tips, you must solder the jumper.
The V2.1S soldering station controller board has the ability to connect both a pump motor and a solenoid valve 
.
The new Ve2.1S board provides the ability to control either the pump motor (no changes need to be made on the board) or to control the solenoid valve (changes to the board need to be made according to the figure) 
In this version, a solenoid valve with a 24V supply voltage is connected to the PUMP connector.
Also included with the board are 2 cables. 
one of them is used to connect the soldering iron connector to the board, the other to connect the board to the power supply.
After analyzing the circuit diagram, it can be assumed that this fee is a further development or modification of the v2.1S board.
Identified differences in circuit design:
- after the stabilizer U2 there is no protective zener diode D2 at 3.3V and an electrolytic capacitor C3 at 100mF*6V;
- instead of the resistive assembly R11 at 4.7 kOhm, separate resistors R2, R6 with the same rating are installed;
- the control cascade of the pump motor/solenoid valve Q3, D3, R14, R15 is located on the board;
- the possibility of using JBC and T12 soldering tips is provided.
Now let's consider soldering iron handle HAKKO FX-9501
The handle is unmarked, there is no HAKKO FX-9501 inscription, no KSGER sticker. Naturally not original.
The casting is of high quality, there are no flashes or burrs. The black rubber cuff is quite elastic.
The handle is carefully assembled, the SW200 position sensor and the NTC thermistor (in heat shrink) are already soldered 
Standard wiring:
- blue wire, position sensor SW200
- white wire, NTC thermistor
- green wire, tip grounding and general position sensor
- black wire, minus power supply for tip T12 and common for the thermistor
- red wire, plus power supply for tip T12
In the GX12-5 connector, the soldered wires are not insulated, which is bad, because... the connector itself is metal and there is a chance of getting a short circuit 
The wire from the soldering iron handle to the GX12-5 connector is silicone, heat-resistant, and quite soft. If we compare it with what I looked at in the previous one, this one is more elastic. Similar to the one I buy on.
Wire length 112cm. 
Diameter 5mm 
The wire withstood a temperature of 350℃ without consequences, only the gloss disappeared at the point of contact with the heated tip 
The tip in the handle is fixed well, but still rotates along the axis.
The pros and cons of this pen are well known; I think there is no point in repeating it.
I will not consider the bonus tip KSGER T12-BL. There are no clear criteria for determining its quality; everything is quite subjective. Some people like these stings, others are not happy with them.
To understand the operation of the new controller, I decided to assemble a full-fledged soldering station based on it (hereinafter referred to as PS).
To assemble the PS I will also need a case and a power supply.
For this PS I purchased it in black with a silver front panel. On this moment There are no 130mm long cases on sale, there are 120, 150 and 180mm ones. The price at the time of purchase was 66¥ ( yuan), which is equivalent to $10.
The kit includes:
- 2 pieces of U-shaped duralumin profile measuring 130x88x19
- front panel with tinted glass (glass is usually not glued in; in the photo it was already glued in by me)
- back panel with a hole for installing a 3in1 power strip
- mounting screws: 4 pcs. M3 with countersunk head and 4 pcs. M3 with decorative hex head 
In order not to repeat myself, I will not describe in detail the body and its modifications; anyone interested can read it. The only difference: in the previous review, the case was bought with components in different stores, but in this case I already bought a complete set.
It was purchased at the same store. The price at the time of purchase was ¥3.5, equivalent to $0.53. 
The block is the most common, with a fuse and a power switch; I think there is no point in describing it in detail. The only thing I had to do with it was replace the 5A fuse with a 1A one.
Also, it was purchased in the same store. This block power supply is specially designed for use in duralumin cases with a cross-section of 88x38mm (photo from the store) 
The cost of this power supply in the store is ¥39, which is equivalent to $5.92.
Stated characteristics:
- output voltage: 24V
- output current: 4A
- power: 96W
- dimensions 83x83mm. 
Power supply board in detail
The power supply is assembled according to classic scheme flyback pulse generator based on a PWM controller with an external transistor.
FBI12 IC is used as a PWM controller (IC3). 
I did not find any information on this controller. An analysis of the circuitry showed that its connection circuit is similar to many other Chinese-made controllers (for example, PWM 63D39 in one of the reviews).
The printed circuit board is double-sided, but all radio elements are located on the upper side of the board and are quite dense 
There is only soldering on the bottom side of the board. Also, from the bottom side, the cuts in the PCB between the high-voltage and low-voltage elements of the board are clearly visible 
I will not draw a schematic diagram of this power supply, but I will consider the main cascades and elements:
- a 3A fuse (FS1) is installed at the input 
In the future I may replace it with a jumper, because... there is already one fuse on the power supply and access to it for replacement is much more convenient
- thermistor (NR1) 
- varistor (VR1) 
- input noise filter (L3) 
- an X2 capacitor 0.047mkFx275V is installed at the filter output 
- high voltage diode bridge(D9-D12) at 800V and 8A 
The board has seats for installing discrete SMD diodes 
- a smoothing capacitive filter consists of two capacitors (C17, C18) 22mkFx400V connected in parallel 
The total capacity is 44mk, which is not enough for the declared power of 96W.
For a soldering iron with a T12 tip, a power of 70W is, in principle, sufficient, especially since the peak power is used only during the initial heating of the soldering tip.
If necessary, you can replace it with capacitors of larger capacity, the seats allow.
- power transistor N-channel MOSFET (N1) 650V and 10A, located on the radiator 
- near the radiator there is a current resistor (R27) 0.18Om 2W
- the pulse transformer is similar in size to those used in switching power supplies of laptops. 
The topology of the printed circuit board allows the installation of pulse transformers of other sizes 
- the high-voltage winding is shunted by an RCD snubber: diodes (D7, D8) are connected in parallel, a high-voltage capacitor (C10) 10nFx630V, resistors (R13-R16) 200kOm are connected in parallel 
- at the exit pulse transformer a diode assembly (D2) of 200V 10A is installed. The assembly itself is placed on the radiator, both diodes are connected in parallel 
- the diode assembly is shunted by the R1C2 chain 
- two electrolytic capacitors (C3, C4) at 680mkFx35V are installed behind the diode assembly 
- then we have a two-winding inductor (L2) 
- another electrolytic capacitor (C7) 47mkFx50V is installed at the power supply output, it is shunted by ceramics (C5) and a load resistor (R3) 10 Om 
- the output voltage stabilization circuit is made according to the classical scheme using an IC (IC1) 
and optocouplers (IC2) 
- an interconnect capacitor (C13) 1.0nF is installed between the high-voltage and low-voltage parts of the power supply, unlike the “folk” power supply, it is correct, with characteristic Y1 
An external inspection of the power supply left a positive impression - it was assembled with high quality, the soldering was neat, the flux was washed off.
Since the case, 3in1 power supply and power supply were purchased in the same store, delivery in China to the carrier’s warehouse was common; it amounted to 8¥, which is equivalent to $1.21.
The assembly process is quite simple and has no special features. I described it in detail in mine.
In short:
- first, to the power supply board, observing the polarity, solder the wire going to the controller board
- screw the back wall into the lower half of the case, insert the 3in1 power supply
- insert the power supply into the housing guides, solder the wires from the power supply to the power supply block
- we fix the tinted glass on the front panel using hot glue
- attach the GX12-5 connector to the front panel, solder the cable to the controller board, do not forget to insulate the wires
- fix the controller board on the front panel using the encoder nut, connect the cable connector to the controller board
- screw the front panel to the bottom half of the case front panel
- connect the controller board to the power supply
I got it like this 
In this position, you can already connect the power cord and test switch on the PS.
Don't forget about the battery. In principle, it is not necessary to use a CR2032 battery; any 3V lithium battery will do. The choice of the CR2032 battery by Chinese engineers is due to its availability; in most cases, it is used in laptops to power the BIOS IC.
As noted above, the controller board allows the use of both batteries with a connector and batteries with terminals for soldering into the board 
I connected a CR2032 battery to the connector.
By and large, you can use the controller without a battery. In this case, you will lose the clock reading on the display. If someone can live without a clock on the PS display, then the battery may not be connected ;-).
If during a test run the PS indicator lights up and information is visible on it 
then you can close the case, connect the soldering iron handle and proceed to further testing and configuration.
Looking at the screen of the new Ve2.1S controller gave me a feeling of slight déjà vu, I’ve already seen this somewhere ;-) 
The information on the screen is completely identical to that of the v2.1S board. Which once again confirms the assumption that new board is either a further development or modification of the v2.1S board.
If you go to the settings menu, item 19 and look at Sys Info, you will see 
- HW Version - board release version.
- SW Version - firmware version.
I have never seen firmware version 2.10 before. My controller originally had 2.09, from 0.96" to 1.3" I flashed the controller to firmware version 2.11. And thanks to the efforts of a comrade, a year ago we also got the latest firmware from the author, 2.12.
During testing of the new soldering station controller, Ve2.1S determined that its control is completely the same as version v2.1S. There are no differences in the settings menu. That is, it is still the same v2.1S controller with a slightly different printed circuit board.
Let's summarize some subjective conclusions:
- the new board is a further development or modification of the v2.1S board. I can assume that this is the store’s own development
- its parameters and technical capabilities similar to board version v2.1S
- added the ability to use JBC soldering tips
- added the ability to connect a pump motor or a solenoid valve for a desoldering iron.
During testing and performance checks, the PS on the new Ve2.1S controller behaved adequately; no nuances or problems were found in the operation.
Would I recommend this board to anyone?
Maybe yes. For those who are going to acquire a desoldering iron with a desoldering pump or use JBC soldering tips, this board is more than suitable. For others, the choice of a Ve2.1S or v2.1S controller board is not important; soldering stations based on them will work the same.
As always, thank you all for your attention, I look forward to constructive criticism and comments.
PS Let me remind you that I have on my disk all the firmware I know for soldering stations, hair dryers and combo 2v1. And in there are diagrams of soldering stations known to me, power supplies, as well as instructions for setting up and controlling a soldering station v2.0-2.1S and a hair dryer.
The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.
Planning to buy 0 Add to favorites I liked the review +3 +3
Hi all.
So, after reading rave reviews, I decided to try soldering irons with T12 tips.
What came of it in this review :)
I decided to buy a ready-made station, or rather even a completely ready-to-use kit: station, handle, tip, rosin, solder :).
Buy, as is often customary here, in parts and experience the thrill of assembling and waiting for delivery individual parts I had neither the desire nor the time to resend faulty elements from different ends of the earth - large-scale soldering work lay ahead and it was impossible to delay it.
Naturally, a station based on STM32 was chosen due to its greater functionality.
Here is the order screen: 
Looking ahead, I will say that this is a rare case when the photo of the product on Ali completely matches the product sent. A big plus to the seller for this. Therefore, some of the photos will be from the seller’s website - less work for me.
For example, here is a photo from the seller’s website: 
And here is my photo of the actual insides of the station: 
As you can see, there are no obvious differences, everything is fair.
The set also fully matches: 
This is what the station looks like from the outside: 
And here it is inside: 
Controller board: 
As you can see, everything is neat, I would even say beautiful :)
How does all this work?
Yes, I would say it works simply fabulous. I am delighted.
What was it usually like when I bought a new Soviet soldering iron?
You bring it, turn it on, for the first half an hour white smoke pours out of it, like at a papal conclave, there is a stench, during this time the copper tip chars, the handle heats up, etc.
This is not the case here. The tip heats up from room temperature to 280 C in 12 seconds, this is something fantastic, after a regular soldering iron. Inside the tip, if anyone doesn’t already know, there is a thermocouple, which is actually responsible for measuring the temperature of the tip.
The handle has a vibration/motion/tilt sensor: 
As a result, you can set, for example, 1 minute in the settings, and automatically switch the soldering iron to standby mode with the temperature lowered to 150 degrees so that the tip does not burn. Returning to the operating mode also occurs automatically as soon as you take the handle in your hands and while you are carrying it to the part, the tip warms up to operating temperature. This has been my dream all my life, I thought this could not happen, has not happened and will not happen. And it is :) Simply cool!
The tip heats up over just a few centimeters, as a result, the risk of burns is reduced when accidentally touching the tip, and the handle does not heat up at all!
The wire to the handle is made of silicone, soft, and does not melt when the tip touches it at reasonable temperatures (~300, I didn’t want to test it further). Length approximately 1.1 m.
The station is controlled using an encoder with a push function. The station has a lot of modes and settings, there is a description of this controller on the Internet, I won’t repeat it.
I’ll just write about calibration - a very useful thing. Allows you to calibrate the temperature for each specific tip using three points.
As a result of calibration, this is what I got: 
Now about the sting itself. The kit included a type K tip.
Here's a photo of the packaging for those interested: 
My experience with “durable” tips was extremely negative. I didn’t understand at all how people soldered them. I always replaced long-lasting soldering iron tips with copper ones in the soldering irons I bought, it’s just heaven and earth. Therefore, the presence of a “durable” sting here confused me most of all.
But apparently the quality of workmanship and the correct operating temperature conditions are doing their job - the tip holds the solder and solders just fine!
Here is a photo of the tinned tip: 
Not all of mine are copper and they don’t always hold the solder that way.
In general, everything is great.
Now let's go over some more points.
The handle is very comfortable. After long, heavy, hot classic soldering irons, this one is a pleasure to use; you just don’t want to stop soldering.
The tip in this handle does not rotate, it holds securely and there is no play at all.
The housing of the station is generally not bad, I even like that it is plastic, but the rear plate is too flimsy, the manufacturer needs to strengthen it.
When pressed, the encoder handle rests against the front panel; you can place a piece of paper inside.
When disassembling, be careful - there are 4 screws not only at the back, but also behind the front panel (it is on adhesive tape), and be careful with the back plate of the case, as I wrote it is too flimsy.
For soldering large parts (for example, wires with a cross-section of 4 mm2), the tip K is not enough, you should try to buy something more massive.
There are many reviews on the Internet that the temperature of non-branded T12 blades often fluctuates, especially when turned on for the first time, but this was not the case here, when turned on for the first time, the temperature quickly and confidently went to the set value without hysterics or other disasters.
Well, that's basically it. I have described the main points. The overall impression is very positive. Soldering became a pleasure. The station settings are intuitive and quickly remembered.
The seller is sociable and willing to make contact.
I'm planning to buy +42 Add to favorites I liked the review +34 +64
