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How to disassemble an apple charger. How to fix a phone charger

It turned out that within a month two ordinary Chinese chargers failed. Moreover, no symptoms or hints of difficult operation of the chargers were observed. Just at one point the phone stopped charging.

And although such chargers are not that expensive, there was an interesting desire to find the reason why they stopped working after a short period of time.

Cheap Chinese chargers are non-separable, as they come in a molded case. And if you need to get to the device’s board, then the case has to be cut or sawed. The most convenient and neatest disassembly option is to saw off part of the body. Therefore, we take a hacksaw for metal and cut it in a circle top part simulating a lid.

Then remove the board from the case. We do everything carefully so as not to break off parts or damage the tracks.

Now we visually inspect the board on both sides to identify tracks and parts that have been exposed to high temperatures due to a short circuit or overloaded operation of the part.

As a rule, in places of strong heating and burnt parts, traces of soot are visible and the color of the varnish differs from the general color. Electrolytic capacitors (barrels) at the top may be swollen.

If no visible violations are found on the board, then most likely the charging circuit is “live” and in this case you need to pay attention to power supply unit, which is a weak point.

The fact is that in order to reduce the cost and automate the assembly of the charger, the manufacturer simplified the supply of voltage to its input and abandoned the wires connecting the board input to the metal rods (plugs) with which the charger is connected to the network.

The contact pads are etched onto the board, and the board itself is clamped between spring-loaded clamps and metal rods. To collect current, the board is pressed with its contact pads against the clamps and is in a clamped position between the clamps and metal rods.

How disassemble telephone Sony Ericsson W595

Let's sort it out Sony phone Ericsson W595 for matrix change.

Warning

This article is not a guide to action! All responsibility for collecting and disassembling your device lies with you.
Many manufacturers do not bear warranty obligations if the device has been disassembled by the user. If you do not want to lose the warranty for your device, check the terms of the warranty in the documentation or with the device manufacturer.

Tools used

Now you can withdraw back panel phone case. To do this, insert a case dismantling tool (or a credit card) into the gap between the grayish panel and the battery compartment, and run it around the perimeter of the case to release the latches.

It should turn out like this. Two small parts will fall out on their own when you remove the back panel. Then remove the two screws marked with circles.

Now you can remove the battery compartment, first peeling off the cable glued to the side. After you remove the battery compartment, remove the two screws marked with circles.

Lift up motherboard up. It is still connected by a cable. Pull the dark tab on the connector to remove it from the connector.

It should turn out like this.

Create the assembly in reverse order.

welcome (already left 35 comments)

Thank you very much for the disassembly summary. My mother accidentally washed this phone in the wash. the machine is more than one year old. We took it out, blew it out with a hairdryer, but it didn’t work. They gave it to us for repairs and they told us that everything was worthless. I'm on this moment I found it by chance, I had completely forgotten about it earlier in the evening. I decided to try it disassemble and seriously dry all the circuits)) Using your website, I disassembled, dried with a hot hairdryer all the circuits where there were traces of oxidation and water, smeared all the circuits with salicylic acid (1% alcohol), dried them again, and put them back together. I really wanted it to work) And now there’s a festive moment, I press the button... YOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO turned on. YAY. I almost screamed at the top of my lungs with joy, it’s impossible - 23:05 already))) Super)) Thank you for you!

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Maxim, cool! Thanks for the comment :)

The article is amazing, thank you very much, Roman! 😉
I have a problem with the “0” button, I was wondering - the contacts under the button were oxidized/clogged, I looked and everything was clean. 🙁 I wiped it with alcohol - it doesn’t work. But I found something else: if you press the area a little to the left and above “0” and immediately press “0” - then everything works. Now I don’t know, I need to somehow crawl under the keyboard - maybe I’ll see something there. 🙁

Yes, apparently - a small resistor, if that is it, has been unsoldered. Just from that series of small parts a little higher and to the left of “zero”. Such are the things.

Kirill, if it’s really unsoldered, you can solder it. But has he really lost his mind? Maybe it's just a problem with the keyboard backing?

Exactly, exactly! 🙂 It even falls off on one side in the literal sense of the word. Therefore, for now, I just glued the tape on top and it holds, but in order for the button to work, you still need to press. There is no ability to solder yet, I will endure it.
Hmm, curious, what if you remove it altogether and connect the contacts directly? Why is he needed there at all?

My comment is the first one here. So, please tell me why I dried all the microcircuits, the phone turned on, but the keyboard (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,0,)

Thanks, now I figured out how to take it apart! I have a problem, while charging the phone a child spilled tea and it got into the area of the charging plug, now the charge is not coming, I tried to measure the voltage at the phone terminals without the battery, there’s not even 3 volts, the battery was on charge for a day and the battery was zero

Doesn't turn on telephone.Do you have food, what should you do?

The phone does not turn on, what is the reason?

Alexey, Alexander, Meruert, better take your phones to a good service center.

I downloaded new songs, but when playing them the phone turned off. I started to turn it on and it showed the logo, then the screen was black and vibrating intermittently, what should I do?

Alena, reflash telephone.

I have the same problem, it started displaying contacts without names in squares and zeros, I rebooted it, it gets to the Sony Ericsson logo and that’s it, it doesn’t go any further, it doesn’t respond to anything! I went to the workshop and they said that everything can’t be done. What do you advise? Thank you!.

A mobile phone or other device whose battery is charged Charger. The main reasons why a charger may fail are as follows:

Broken wire;

Failure of the charging unit;

Broken contact connection between the wire and the plug or charging unit.

Very often, the cause of failure of the charger is a break in the wire or a violation of the contact of the wire with the structural elements of the charger - the plug and the block. In this case, you can repair the charger yourself. Let's consider the principle of eliminating damage to the charger wire using a specific example of repairing a mobile charger Nokia phone(with thin plug).

To repair the charger we will need:

Multimeter;

Soldering iron and everything needed for soldering;

If the device shows a voltage value, this indicates that the charging unit and wire are not damaged. In this case, the device showed 7 volts - this is the nominal output voltage of this charger. At this stage, we can conclude that the charger does not work due to poor contact of the conductors at the point where they are connected to the plug. You can verify this by ringing the plug with the device.

To do this, which come from the plug, insert a thin wire into the inside of the plug (this is necessary for contact with the inner contact part of the plug).

Take a multimeter and select the dialing mode. With one probe we touch one of the stripped conductors, and with the other, first to the outer contact part of the plug, and then to the inserted wire. If the device shows contact (presence sound signal), this indicates that the contact between this wire and the plug is not broken.

We move the probe of the device to another stripped conductor, with the other we touch the outer part of the plug, and then the wire. If, when you touched both contact parts of the plug, the device did not emit a signal, then there is no contact. That is, one of the wires is torn off from the plug.

In this case, there are two ways: you can purchase a new plug, or you can repair the old one. The first method is simpler and more reliable. A new plug can be purchased at mobile phone repair shops or at the radio market. You may have an old charger that does not have a damaged plug.

In this case, it is enough to solder the new plug to the charger, while observing the polarity. How to check if the wires are connected correctly (polarity)? As a rule, each cord has a. If it does not match, then you need to make sure the wires are connected correctly.

To do this, plug the charger into a power outlet and the new plug into mobile phone. Connect the plug leads to the charger cord. If charging has started, then you have connected the conductors correctly. If the phone is not charging, swap the wires. The check must be performed in any case, even if the color markings of the connected cords are the same, since the markings of the cords may not match.

The next step is connecting the two cords. If you have heat shrink tubing, place part of it on one of the cords to be soldered before soldering. Solder the conductors, observing polarity. Insulate both wires with insulating tape and put on heat shrink tubing. Check the functionality of the charger.

If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a new plug, but still want to restore the charger, then the second method of eliminating the damage will suit you - repairing the plug.

Remove the rubber (plastic) covering from the plug with a knife. In this case, be careful, do not rush, as you can damage the plug itself.

The next step is to solder the charging cord to the plug.

We check the functionality of the charger. If everything is normal, insulate the conductors and put a heat-shrinkable tube on the plug. The charger is ready for use.

We examined the case of contact failure at the point where the cord is connected to the plug. There may also be another reason. Let's consider one more case.

You cut the wire, checked for voltage at the output of the charger, there is none. We cut the wire near the charger, moving 7-10 cm away from the charger block. We strip the wire that comes out of the charger block and check for the presence of voltage at the output. The presence of voltage at the output indicates that the charger is working properly. We ring the plug using the above method. In this case there is no contact failure.

Testing the charging cord showed that one of the conductors was broken. No damage is visible visually. The best option- purchase a new wire. Then solder it to the plug and the charger block, observing the polarity.

To avoid mistakes (especially if the wires have the same color code), before soldering the wires, connect them and plug the charger plug into the phone. If charging has started, connect the conductors by soldering. Insulate the wires at the soldering site and put on a heat-shrinkable tube (it must be put on the wire before soldering). The damage has been repaired.

If the wire is intact and the contact connection of the plug is not broken, then the charging unit is damaged or one of the wires inside the unit is torn off.

Unscrew the charger unit and look at the wire connections. If all the wires are connected normally, then the memory unit itself is damaged.

If your charger unit is damaged, then, without having any skills in electrical engineering, you will not be able to find the reason for its failure, much less eliminate it yourself. Repairing the charger in a specialized service will cost you more than a new charger.

Now, more than ever, the number of gadgets per person has reached its maximum.

Phones, tablets, laptops, various wireless headsets– all this abundance of equipment has a power source and, accordingly, a charger for it.

The phone is not charging from the charger - what should I do?

Chargers are often carried with them in a bag or pocket, and so that they take up minimal space, their cords are twisted with a bend and tension.

This in turn leads to an almost invisible wire break and charging inoperability. Just break in the cord- this is the most common breakdown in these types of devices, and, frankly, it’s a pity to throw it away because of this.

Yes, you can, of course, buy a new one and not suffer, but if the device is non-standard, for example, a telephone old model, then it is not always possible to find such a charger. But at a flea market they might give you a block with the same problem, and no one needs the extra expenses.

Therefore, repairing a charger is a useful and worthwhile endeavor.

How to fix a charger for a phone, smartphone, tablet with your own hands

Below, this article will describe a simple repair method that does not require special equipment, which will give your charger a second life.

The photo shows a charger with a problem in the cord.

A cliff is not always visible to the naked eye. It can be hidden under the thickness of the main (top) insulation and remains almost invisible.

But, as practice shows, a fracture most often occurs near the entrance to the block or at the base of the plug.

To find the location of the break, just connect the switched-on charger to the phone and move the cord in a suspicious place.

As soon as you see that charging “started” for a moment, it means that there is a break in the place where you were moving at that moment.

In this case, upon closer inspection, the fracture and break were visible even without movement. It just happened to be at the entrance to the power supply.

The main problem in repairing such blocks is that they are not collapsible. Therefore, to get to electronic board, you need to show accuracy and some effort.

Using a screwdriver and a knife, you need to pry up the base of the back cover and remove it.

You should pry where the cord enters the device. If the entrance is too tight, you can trim the rubber clamp slightly.

This must be done carefully so as not to cut the wire at all.

Using a screwdriver, we try to lift the lid up.

It may happen that it cracks in half, but more often, as in this case, the lid was removed entirely, without damage.

It was even clear that it had latches, and in the body of the charger there were recesses for them.
This means that after repair it is possible to put the cover in its place without using glue.
When the cover is removed, you need to pull the printed circuit board out of the case. Since it “sits” tightly, a screwdriver will help you get it out. By resting the blade of the screwdriver against the body and hooking its tip into one of the soldering points, we pull the board out.

The design of the case is such that when the board is inserted inside, its input contacts are connected to the clamps of the power plug pins. Therefore, when installing the board back into the case, you need to take this point into account.
The photo below shows the board with all its “internals”. The wires are soldered at the bottom.

View from the opposite side.

And here in the photo are the tracks for the input contacts.

The wire will have to be cut below the place where the damage is located. But it is very important to remember which wire is “+” and which is “-”. In some cases, the wires are color coded, with red being the positive wire and black being the negative wire.

When marking with color, you can safely cut it, and then simply solder the wires, observing the polarity.
In our case, the wires are the same color, but since the cord is flat, you can see which side of the cord the wire goes to negative and which to positive. Mark, and then cut.

Without losing the mark, strip and tin the wires on the cord.

We solder them to the board one at a time, observing the polarity.

On printed circuit board There is usually a polarity marking at the soldering point.

To prevent the output cord from dangling, we wrap a bandage of black electrical tape around its input part. The thickness of the bandage should be such that it fits into the slot for the wire and is fixed in it.

Before installing the cover, check the operation of the device. We plug it into the network and connect it to the phone. If you don’t have your phone with you at the moment, use a voltmeter direct current.

Since the internal contact in the socket has a very thin tube, and the probe of the device does not fit into it, you can use a piece of thin copper wire.

Having inserted it into the internal contact tube, we connect probes to it and the outer terminal of the plug measuring instrument.

The voltmeter shows that voltage is present, which means that the fault has been fixed.

Now let's snap it back cover.

We connect the phone and enjoy the results of the work done.

Increasingly, people are having problems with the charger failing, which leads to unpleasant consequences, since it becomes impossible to charge the phone if there is no other alternative to the charger. In today's article we will look at all types of charger breakdowns and repairs.

And so, first, let’s determine the main reasons for the failure of the charger, it could be:

Break in the power supply wire of the device;
Damage to the charger unit;
Broken contacts, connections or wires in the plug or power supply;

Most often, the cause of charger failure is a break in the internal wires or damage to the connections between the plug or block. In such cases, the device can be taken to service centers or repaired yourself. In this article we will look at the second option; as an example, we will use a charger with a thin plug from Nokia.

To repair the charger we will need:

Regular multimeter;
Knife for cutting wires;
Soldering iron and solders;
Electrical tape and heat shrink tube, if available;
A roll of thin copper wire for connecting contacts or damaged parts;

The first thing we will do is look for damage in the wire or contact connections. It is quite easy to determine the place where the wire broke; this is facilitated by the non-standard color or smaller diameter of the wire itself.

If you were unable to visually determine the location of the break, then the damage may not be a break in the wire, but a defect in the connections between the device unit or the charging plug.

Let's start repairing the charger. First of all, we cut off the wire in the area of 7-10 cm from the plug; if a break is not detected, we can connect the plug back to the power supply. Therefore, it is not advisable to cut the wire close to the plug or power supply, since after that we will not be able to solder it back.

Next, we clean the wire from the insulation (the one on the power supply side). We take a multimeter and set the maximum permissible voltage to 20V. (You can find out more about how to use a multimeter in). We connect the contacts of the multimeter to the broken and cleaned wires and insert the charger into the network.

If the multimeter shows any value, it means there is no damage to the power supply and wire. In our case, the multimeter showed 7V - this means that the power supply is working properly, since the rated output voltage of the device is equal to the same value.

We do the same action with the charger plug. We clean the wire from the insulation and insert a thin wire into the inner part of the contact wire; this will be needed to accurately measure the nominal value of the plug with a multimeter.

In the multimeter, select the continuity mode and touch one end of the probe to one of the protected wires, and the other, first to the plug, then to the inserted wire. If the multimeter makes a beep, this will mean that there is voltage between the plug and the wire and that the plug itself is working.

If the device does not emit a sound alert, it follows that the plug is faulty and there may be damage to its contacts. In such cases, you can go to the store and buy a new charger or replace only the plug, but you can also repair it, which is what we will do now.

If you have another working plug, you can replace it by simply soldering the new one to the old power supply, but it is important to observe the polarity; for this, each cord is color-coded; all wires must be soldered in the corresponding colors.

But sometimes it happens that the color marking is missing, in such cases you need to plug the charger into the network and connect the new plug to the phone. Next, you need to connect all the wires of the plug to the wires of the charging unit. If the phone goes into charging mode, then you have done everything correctly. If not, then change the wire connections until the phone goes into charging mode.

After this we proceed to soldering. If you have a heat-shrink tube, then before soldering, put it on one of the wires, then solder both ends, observing the polarity, then wrap the joint with electrical tape and put on the heat-shrink tube again.

But if you do not have an additional plug, then you will have to repair the old one. To do this, you will need to carefully remove the rubber coating from the old plug with a knife, while trying not to damage the connections of the plug itself.

After this, we check the functionality of the plug. We plug in the charging unit and connect the cord to the phone. If everything works, isolate all connections and attach heat-shrink tubing to the plug. After which the charger is ready for use.

But it happens that when cutting the wire and checking the voltage, it turns out that there is no voltage, then in this case you will also have to cut the wire opposite the charging unit, retreating about 7-10 cm. It is necessary to protect the wire coming out of the power supply from damage, after which you need to measure the presence of output voltage. If there is voltage, this indicates that the charging unit is working properly.

In our case, it turned out that one conductor of the plug was broken. This is difficult to detect visually. The best option may be to buy a new wire and solder it instead of the old one.

In this case, you also need to observe the polarity, and before soldering, check the wire contacts by connecting the charging unit to the network and the plug to the phone. If the phone begins to accumulate charge, then you can start soldering the wires, and then insulate them.

If the charger wire and plug are in good condition, then the damage is most likely in the charging unit. Perhaps the problem could be a broken contact inside the charger. To fix the damage, you need to disassemble the charger unit and check all wires and contacts for breaks. If everything is fine with them, then the problem lies in the charger unit itself. At the same time, without having electrical engineering skills, you will not be able to repair the charging unit. In this case, you will have to buy a new charger or take the old one to a service center.

Perhaps the most “sick” part cell phone is its charger. A compact DC source with an unstable voltage of 5-6V often fails for various reasons, from the actual malfunction to mechanical failure as a result of careless handling.

However, it is very easy to find a replacement for a faulty charger. As an analysis of several chargers from different manufacturers has shown, they are all built according to very similar schemes. In practice, this is a circuit of a high-voltage blocking-king generator, the voltage is secondary winding transformer which is rectified and used to charge the cell phone battery. The difference usually lies only in the connectors, as well as unprincipled differences in the circuit, such as the implementation of the input network rectifier using a half-wave or bridge circuit, the difference in the circuit for setting the operating point based on the transistor, the presence or absence of an indicator LED, and others little things.

So, what are the “typical” faults? First of all, you should pay attention to capacitors. A breakdown of a capacitor connected after the mains rectifier is very likely and leads to both damage to the rectifier and burnout of a low-resistance constant resistor connected between the rectifier and the negative plate of this capacitor. This resistor, by the way, works almost like a fuse.

Often the transistor itself fails. Usually there is a high-voltage power transistor designated “13001” or “13003”. As practice shows, in the absence of one, the domestic KT940A, which was widely used in the output stages of video amplifiers of old domestic televisions, can be used as a replacement.

A breakdown of the 22 µF capacitor results in no start of generation. And damage to the 6.2V zener diode leads to an unpredictable output voltage and even failure of the transistor due to excess voltage at the base.
Damage to the capacitor at the output of the secondary rectifier is the least common occurrence.

The design of the charger housing is non-separable. You need to saw, break: and then somehow glue it all together, wrap it with electrical tape... The question arises about the feasibility of repairs. After all, to charge a cell phone battery, almost any direct current source with a voltage of 5-6V, with a maximum current of at least 300mA, is enough. Take such a power source and connect it to the cable from the faulty charger through a 10-20 Ohm resistor. That's all. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity. If the connector is USB or universal 4-pin, add a resistance of about 10-100 kilo-ohms between the middle contacts (choose so that the phone “recognizes” the charger).

A mobile phone or other device that uses a charger to charge its battery. The main reasons why a charger may fail are as follows:

Broken wire;

Failure of the charging unit;

Broken contact connection between the wire and the plug or charging unit.

Very often, the cause of failure of the charger is a break in the wire or a violation of the contact of the wire with the structural elements of the charger - the plug and the block. In this case, you can repair the charger yourself. Let's look at the principle of repairing damage to the charger wire using a specific example of repairing a Nokia mobile phone charger (with a thin plug).

To repair the charger we will need:

Multimeter;

Soldering iron and everything needed for soldering;

Insulating tape and heat shrink tubing (if available);

A small piece of thin wire to ensure contact with the inner contact part of the charger plug (for Nokia charger thin plug).

The first stage is to look for damage to the wire or contact connection. Damage to the wire can be determined visually. The place where the conductor rupture occurred is usually of a different color and slightly smaller in diameter.

If a visual inspection fails to determine where the wire is damaged, then most likely the charger does not work due to the wire being torn off at the point where it is connected to the block or plug. The wire may also be damaged, we will find out this in the process of further identifying the damage.

We take the wire and cut it 7-10 centimeters further than the plug. If there is no contact failure at the point of connection to the plug, we will connect the wire at the cut point. Therefore, you cannot cut the wire at the point of connection to the plug, that is, you need to leave a small piece so that the wires can be connected by soldering.

Strip the wires on the part of the wire that goes to the charger. Take and select the measurement limit DC voltage 20 volts. Plug in the charger and measure the voltage at the output of the charger, that is, at the stripped ends of the cord.

To do this, which come from the plug, insert a thin wire into the inside of the plug (this is necessary for contact with the inner contact part of the plug).

Take a multimeter and select the dialing mode. With one probe we touch one of the stripped conductors, and with the other, first to the outer contact part of the plug, and then to the inserted wire. If the device shows a contact (presence of a sound signal), this indicates that the contact between this wire and the plug is not broken.

In this case, it is enough to solder the new plug to the charger, while observing the polarity. How to check if the wires are connected correctly (polarity)? As a rule, there is one on each cord. If it does not match, then you need to make sure the wires are connected correctly.

To do this, plug the charger into a power socket and the new plug into your mobile phone. Connect the plug leads to the charger cord. If charging has started, then you have connected the conductors correctly. If the phone is not charging, swap the wires. The check must be performed in any case, even if the color markings of the connected cords are the same, since the markings of the cords may not match.

If you do not have the opportunity to purchase a new plug, but still want to restore the charger, then the second method of eliminating the damage will suit you - repairing the plug.

Remove the rubber (plastic) covering from the plug with a knife. In this case, be careful, do not rush, as you can damage the plug itself.

The next step is to solder the charging cord to the plug.

We check the functionality of the charger. If everything is normal, insulate the conductors and put a heat-shrinkable tube on the plug. The charger is ready for use.

We examined the case of contact failure at the point where the cord is connected to the plug. There may also be another reason. Let's consider one more case.

Testing the charging cord showed that one of the conductors was broken. No damage is visible visually. The best option is to purchase a new wire. Then solder it to the plug and the charger block, observing the polarity.

If the wire is intact and the contact connection of the plug is not broken, then the charging unit is damaged or one of the wires inside the unit is torn off.

Unscrew the charger unit and look at the wire connections. If all the wires are connected normally, then the memory unit itself is damaged.

Proper operation of some types of car batteries requires periodic maintenance: recharging and adding electrolyte. Of course, now in stores you can choose batteries that do not need supervision at all, but the cost of such devices is quite high. Therefore, experienced drivers, for whom the car is a common vehicle, purchase standard batteries and regularly recharge them with a special device.

However, like any other electrical equipment, this device can break down and then the charger needs to be repaired to car battery. You can do this either yourself or by handing over the “charger” to professionals.

Types of chargers

Now there are several types of devices on the market, which differ not only in name and price, but also in their operating principle. The division occurs in two planes: the design feature and the work feature.

In the first case there are:

Transformer. Here the design is based on a transformer that lowers the voltage to the required level so that the battery can be charged. Such devices are quite reliable and charge the car battery well. However, they are quite cumbersome.
Pulse. Here the work is provided by a pulse converter, which is considered less reliable. But the obvious advantage of such devices is their light weight and dimensions.

Regarding the operating principles of battery chargers Vehicle, then the division goes into two categories:

Charging and pre-starting devices. Easily recognized by the thin wires that must connect the terminals of the charging equipment and the terminals of the battery itself. Effectively recharges or fully charges the battery, and can be used even if the car battery is still connected to the car. The convenience is quite obvious.
Starting and charging devices. They are recognized by the presence of thicker wires connecting the battery and the charging device. Can work in two different modes, which are switched by a special toggle switch. In one mode, the “charger” delivers maximum current. The other is used for automated charging. Such devices can only be used with the battery disconnected from the vehicle. If you forget about this, you can burn out many different on-board system fuses, or even several important parts.

Repair of battery chargers

It is necessary to understand that this is an electrical device that is assembled according to a certain circuit in order to perform its function. And the more powerful and better the device, the more functions it has, the more complex the operation scheme. Therefore, without knowledge of electronics and without understanding the theory of operation, it is not worth disassembling and repairing the battery charger.

However, sometimes minor DIY repairs are still possible. Especially if a relatively simple transformer-type device fails. Let's see what it looks like from the inside. To do this, just take a screwdriver, unscrew the bolts and remove top cover. Below it you can see:

Power transformer. Allows you to output different values and voltage ranges.
Galent switch. Allows the user to adjust the voltage.
Ammeter. Controls current.
Diode bridge. These are four diodes combined together. Responsible for rectifying current from alternating to direct.
Fuse. Certain protection against power surges.

What can you check if you have little knowledge of electronics?

Firstly, the fuse.

Secondly, for devices that are used quite often and intensively, the wires often simply come off from the connection points. You need to carefully examine the inside of the device and check that the wiring is secure enough. If at visual inspection If a torn wire is detected, it must be soldered in place. Thirdly, sometimes cheap “chargers” use plastic where it does not fit well. For example, I once had to repair a car battery charger, inside of which diode bridge was screwed to a plastic stand. Naturally, the plastic eventually melted and the diode bridge moved away from the heat sink plate.

This is where the possibilities for self-repair for the common man, as a rule, end.

If your knowledge in electronics is deeper and you have an understanding of how to use testing instruments, then you can go further.

Checking the incoming voltage. We go along the power wire and find the place where it is connected to the power transformer. At this point we measure the voltage, thereby eliminating malfunctions of the power cable and fuse.
Check the output voltage. Now we act from the other side - we look at where the wires going towards the battery are connected. Switch the multimeter to DC measurement mode and check the voltage. Most likely, there will already be problems here.
We check the performance of the diodes and the galent switch. To do this, you need to measure the voltage at the input of the diode bridge. Depending on the measurement result in this place, the output will be that the switch is faulty or the diodes are faulty. In the second case, you will have to unscrew the entire bridge and check each diode separately. As soon as it becomes clear which one is faulty, you will need to replace it with a whole one.

In general, each battery charger is accompanied by a diagram of its operation. People who can read the diagram and understand general principles functioning of the system, in some cases they will be able to independently repair the battery “charger”.

If you don’t have specific knowledge in electronics, then you shouldn’t perform such work. This is not only a risk to the performance of chargers, but also a health risk. It is much easier to turn to professional electricians, who will probably deal with the problem faster and better.

Most often, the cause of unstable operation or complete inoperability of equipment is a breakdown of the power supply, if we are talking about devices with an external power supply, such as a laptop or TV, or a small diagonal monitor. And there is nothing easier to buy new block power supply, and thus solve the problem. However, it happens that buying a new branded power supply is not the most trivial task, due to the lack of a developed network service centers manufacturer or the cost of a new power supply is beyond your ideas of reasonableness.

In this case, repairing your power supply will save you a very significant amount, up to 1,500 rubles, depending on the laptop model, the nature of the breakdown and other factors

The cost of our services for repairing external power supplies starts from 400 rubles.

For comparison, the cost of a new power supply starts from 1000 rubles. And this is taking into account the fact that you will find it on sale.

In our experience, manufacturers have a very large “range” of types of connectors, voltages, power, and smart chips hidden inside branded accessories.

Of course, taking into account modern realities, most power supplies are made in the format of completely glued or embedded in plastic, disposable devices that do not involve interfering with themselves. Therefore, without some loss of appearance, repairing such power supplies is not possible, BUT: we always warn you about the end result in advance. If you don't really care appearance power supply or you have no other choice, we will solve your problem for a reasonable fee, and in the shortest possible time.

In addition to repairs, you can also order an original branded power supply for any device from us. If for some reason it is no longer possible to buy one, we will offer you a compatible solution that is guaranteed not to degrade the performance of your device.

Separately, I would like to note that there are now a lot of so-called “universal” power supplies on sale that have a “set” of various connectors: a voltage regulator, a polarity switch, and even a USB output, “just in case.” Such devices need to be connected very carefully; you should not use such power supplies all the time! The fact is that for maximum coverage of the target audience (otherwise it is no longer a “universal” bp), such devices are very average in all parameters - both electrical and mechanical (size and shape of connectors), and in fact In fact, they don’t really fit any device with which they are supposedly compatible. Such power supplies are an excellent emergency option, but constant use usually leads to accelerated wear of the batteries, if we are talking about a laptop, and to damage to the connector on the side of the powered device.

In addition to external power supplies, we repair or replace any internal power supplies in any devices. For example, in TVs, monitors, computers, DVD players, game consoles, stereo systems, and even humidifiers and coffee makers.

The cost of repairing an internal power supply is more expensive than an external one, this is due to the fact that the device must first be disassembled, and starts from 700 rubles.

If your device does not turn on, or turns on only once, or works for some time after turning on and turns off, the reason is most likely a faulty power supply. Come, we can solve this problem for a relatively modest cost!

The fastest wearing part in a portable device is accumulator battery. And even if a video camera, game console or laptop is in good working order and working, it becomes difficult to use it without a battery. The manufacturer, of course, makes it possible to order new batteries for their devices while the device is on sale, but the cost of such “accessories” usually amazes even the wildest imagination.

We offer a budget and high-quality solution: restoration of laptop batteries, video cameras, game consoles, and other devices, by replacing battery cells with new ones.

If we are talking about a laptop, then in the case of your old worn-out battery we install new elements made by Panasonic, with maximum capacity, and you get a battery with completely new characteristics in the old case. Price - depending on the number of cells in your battery, from 2 to 3 and a half thousand rubles. For this price, you usually get a battery with more power than it was originally, tested and calibrated.

If we talk about others portable devices, then the new battery cell itself costs from 50 to 800 rubles, plus the cost of replacing it. Before replacement and after completing the work, you can check the capacity of your old and new batteries using the special equipment we have, absolutely free of charge.

20.11.2020

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