How to save a photo in Lightroom. How to save photos in lightroom
It's time to make amends, right? In Photoshop, I have already begun to make the lessons harder, in Lightroom we are still “stuck” on the basics. And in this lesson I will tell you how to save a photo in lightroom. After all, this, consider, is one of the main and final stages of photo processing.
Here, look, let's say you processed a photo in Lightroom, and what to do next? That's right, save it. But, if everything is simple with this in Photoshop, click “Save” and rejoice, then with Lightroom everything is not so simple.
Now let's export.
Step 1. Let's move on File > Export...:
Step 2 A similar window will open in front of us. Let's take a look at each of the points so that it becomes more clear to you.
Step 2.1."Place of Export". In this section, you choose WHERE you will export the photo in Lightroom, select a folder.
Step 2.2."Renaming a file". Well, everything is clear here, we set the name of the original image.
Step 2.3. "File format". Also understandable, choose the file format and the quality of the original image. We are already with you about image formats.
Step 2.4."Image Size". You can set the image size, by default it will be saved with the original value.
Step 2.5."Output Sharpness". The default is for the screen, but it's worth changing if you want to print your photos.
Step 2.6."Metadata". Let's first understand what metadata is.
Metadata is data about data, information about information, description of content.
That is, data about the photo, shutter speed, aperture, etc. etc.
And in this section we choose what metadata to save in the photo, by default it saves everything.
Step 2.7."Watermark". Often young photographers love to watermark their photos, thinking that their photos are worth something and someone needs them. Have you ever seen club photos of geometry or some clubs? Here is the club's logo. This is the “watermark” and we can also “sculpt” this in Lightroom when exporting. Let's analyze this topic in more detail.
Step 2.8."Post-processing". Want to edit your photo in Photoshop? Then choose Photoshop. Well, or some other application. We will analyze this point in more detail in the next lesson.
Step 3 Click "Export". And everything is ready. The photo will appear in the folder you specified in step 2.1.
Hello dear readers of my blog. I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. Today I want to continue the theme of Lightroom. In the last article, we have learned. Today we will talk about exporting processed photos.
Everyone who started working with this program faces this problem. For some reason, the developers made this function so abstruse, I still can't figure it out. Well, okay, what is, is!
In my practice, too, did not do without it. As I already said, the first problems I had with opening photos in the program, but about export, it was generally a disaster.
Only due to these two misunderstandings, many people who open Lightroom immediately abandon it, believing that it is very complicated and do not want to waste their precious time. But today I will dispel the myth about complexity, and you will learn how to save a photo in Lightroom after processing.
Where to begin?
We will not touch on photo processing today. Since this is the topic of more than one article. There are so many chips and interesting goodies that we will consider separately in each article for a detailed understanding of the program.
And so, you have processed the photo, corrected the contrast, brightness, saturation, pulled out the details from the shadows, removed the highlights, evened out the color of the sky, if it is a landscape. Or maybe they retouched the skin, removed pimples, skin irregularities, whitened teeth, if this is a portrait.
In a word, you have worked with the image and decided to save it.
From now on, we will begin to describe in detail all the actions.
Photo saving
I will show the whole example in Lightroom 5, in the Russian version. If you have software in English, do all the steps, and here you will have a translation. It is not possible to have a baby! The same actions will be for both versions 3 and 6, the essence is unchanged.
There are 2 ways to save
1 way
Let's say we have a processed file that you want to save.
Right-click on the main (large) photo. In the dropdown menu select Export.
Tab Export. I always export To the selected folder. I point the way, right now. In this submenu, there are more items: Select folder later and Place in original folder by clicking on the arrow.
Put in subfolder. I don't tick here.
Add this directory, the checkbox is also not needed here.
If the file exists. Here I select the item - Ask for action.
Change name to- tick and select Set name. I like to control the whole process, so I set the name right away.
Let's go into detail on the category. File format.
Quality put 80
, it's in good quality. If you want the best, set the value 100
.
Format: JPEG. There are also PSD, TIFF, DNG, Original. We are interested in exporting to jpeg.
metadata. I put All. What it is. This is all photo data. What shutter speed, what was used, camera model, lens model and other useful information.
Further, Watermark. Let's stop here too in more detail. In Lightroom, it is possible to set a copyright for each photo. What is it, let's look at an example. We put a tick. Click on the arrow to open a submenu. Choose in it Watermark editor.
The editor menu opens. As you can see, I wrote my last name in the text. It is used as a copyright for the photo.
Here you can work with the font, with a shadow, with color, with transparency, in which edge to place the copyright, and so on.
To get to other options, move the slider down or click on the arrow. Here we are waiting for some more parameters on which we can work. Experiment, see what happens. Don't be afraid, you can always press the button Cancel.
For example, I do not use this copyright function in Lightroom 5. At the beginning, I used it as soon as I started to master this software. Now, if necessary, I do all the improvements in Photoshop.
The last remaining export point is post-processing. I put - To do nothing. If I need to edit a photo, I do so when I have processed all the photos I have taken.
And finally, we press the button Export.
That's it, your photo has been exported to the folder you need. We look and rejoice at the result.
2 way
The second way to export is through the main menu. File – Export.
Finally
If you do not want to wait for the next articles on processing, but want to learn Lightroom as quickly as possible, then the video version of the training is just for you. Course "", what you need. Great video course. Everything is presented in a clear, human language, without scientific phrases, especially for beginners. I highly recommend as a good assistant in your endeavors.
Lightroom is an indispensable tool for the modern photographer.
Digital SLR for beginners 2.0- for NIKON camera users.
My first MIRROR- For CANON camera users.
I tried to explain everything to the best of my ability. plain language. If you have any suggestions, questions about the article, write in the comments, I will definitely answer. No need to keep questions to yourself, ask, develop as useful as possible for yourself!
That's all for me. I am finishing this article. Subscribe to update. Recommend to friends in social networks, even if they know all the subtleties of lightroom.
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
Andrey Mishachenko: how do you save in LR? here in FS there is a good mode for the web, but is there something similar here? Or is it just quality control?
Understanding Lightroom export in general and for the web in particular requires separate articles. Technically, this is not difficult to do through the Export dialog of the program, but why and in what cases to set certain parameters is a much more voluminous question than just listing the fields of this block. So far I haven't done detailed description, but it will definitely be in the plans.
Let's return to a short dialogue with Andrey.
Gennady Kondratiev: In LR, you can set any parameters when exporting to a jeep, including those meaningful for the web. I usually do things like this: Resize to fit: Long Edge 800-1000 pixels depending on needs Resolution: 72 pixels per inch Sharpen For: Sreen Amount: Standard ...
Andrey Mishachenko: I compare, under the same conditions for exporting photos with a resize of up to 900, for example, FS beats LR in all respects when saving for “web and devices” ... therefore. Definitely, you need to save in FS ...
My personal experience is a little different - Flash doesn't make web photos better. Well, if we take into account that "Save for web..." in Photoshop works with only one image, while in Lightroom you can save at least a thousand at once... Moreover, for the web it is very desirable to do additional sharpening of the original before saving, so how the sharpness in such sizes of the photo drops quite strongly, and in LR this is done with one tick, but in FS it is much more difficult ...
And let's really compare, especially since it's easy to do - after all, we all look at the blog on the web ...))
Here are screenshots of two save settings for the same tiff file from Lightroom 3 and Photoshop CS5. I chose the photo so that there was a saturated color, small details, and gradient transitions...
I must say right away that I don’t have my computer temporarily installed, so there are no export presets to LR here and PS Russian ...
Lightroom 3 For the purity of the experiment, here I turned off the setting Sharpen For, since in Photoshop to achieve this result you need to apply additional settings sharpening before saving to the web.
Photoshop CS5
And here is the result (for starters, I didn’t want to say at all what and where - but then I changed my mind, I don’t want to do fortune-telling, just look what happens):
Lightroom 3
Photoshop CS5
You can compare in the photo viewer pop-up window by clicking on the left and right on PREV and NEXT. What is your opinion? Who is “beating” whom here, and by what parameters?
--------------------
There was an opinion in the comments that when the quality is reduced to get a size around 250Kb, the jeep from Lightroom becomes indigestible. I checked the Limit File Size To checkbox in Lightroom's Export, the value is 250K and I got a file size of 238Kb instead of the 383Kb option from Lightroom above. My opinion is that the result is still at a good level:
And if still Sharpen For put in Satandart, as is necessary for web-saving, it generally works well:
I stayed with my opinion - and you?
Sometimes, after processing photos in Lightroom or Photoshop, for some users, photos differ in color and contrast when they are saved and uploaded to the Internet, viewed in another graphics editor or just on a computer. They don't look like they do in Photoshop or Lightroom.
For example, our poster looks like the first picture in Photoshop, and when saved, it turns into the second picture:
In order for your photos to be displayed equally correctly after saving and retain their color and contrast, you need to properly configure programs, Photoshop and Lightroom.
The Internet, almost all monitors and phone screens work in sRGB color mode, therefore, we need to configure programs so that they save and show us an sRGB image on the monitor.
Adobe Lightroom
Let's start with Lightroom. Here it is enough to set the correct parameters for exporting photos. After processing the photo, we click "export" and in the window that appears, check that the "color space" sRGB is indicated in the "file format" section. That's all!
And also, if you save photos for publication on the Internet, in social networks or on forums, you need to prepare photos in advance so that when uploaded to the appropriate resource, they do not lose quality and saturation.
File format
Image size. Social networks and forums have a limit on the size of the uploaded photo, and if the photo is larger than the allowable limit, then it is automatically compressed. Well, automatic interpolation algorithms will only spoil the quality of your photo. To avoid this, you need to reduce it in advance. The size of the photo should be chosen based on simple logic, so that when viewing and with mobile phone, and from the computer it retained its sharpness. The optimal size for the Internet now is from 1400 pixels on the long side to 2100. In particular, for VKontakte, 1680 pixels on the long side will be ideal.
Output sharpness. For the internet, the more the better. Within reasonable limits. Set Lightroom to "Strong".
After these settings, your photo is ready to be published on the Internet.
Adobe Photoshop
In order to adjust the correct color rendering in Photoshop, go to "editing", "color settings".
And in the window that appears, select the settings " universal settings for Europe 3".
If your photoshop does not have presets for Europe, then just set the RGB field to “sRGB IEC61966-2.1”, there will always be one sRGB profile.
"View" - "proofing options" - and set the Internet standard sRGB.
And also when opening a RAW file in Photoshop, pay attention and set the sRGB profile.
Now your Photoshop correctly reproduces and preserves all the colors of the photo.
Saving a photo for the web in Adobe Photoshop
You can also prepare a photo for export to the Internet in Photoshop. To do this, you first need to reduce it, then add sharpness.
Reduce through "image" - "image size":
We set the unit of measurement to "pixels" and in the "width" field we indicate the size we need. Resampling is left automatic or set to “bicubic (with reduction)”.
After reducing, you need to sharpen the photo. For this, “smart sharpness” is perfect.
Be sure to make a new layer and go to "Filter" - "Sharpen" - "Smart Sharpen".
We set the noise reduction to 0. The radius for the reduced photo is found in the range from 0.3 to 1. For a photo with a size of 1680 pixels along the long side, a radius of 0.4 - 0.5 is suitable. The effect is also found in the range from 70 to 150.
Since we made a new layer, we can set a strong "sharp effect", for example 180, and then, by reducing the opacity of the sharpening layer, we can achieve the correct sharpness of the photo.
The sharpness values are selected by eye, but for the Internet it is better to do more sharpness. The photo will look much more expressive on the screen.
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heading: Diploma Photo report 08.06.2018I use several versions of Lightroom installed simultaneously on my computer running Window OS. different versions have slightly different functionality, or different methods for implementing the same functions. Depending on the situation, I choose the version I need. Here are screenshots based on pretty old version Lightroom 3.7. I have all versions of Lightroom without Russification, because it doesn’t matter to me.
Per for a long time working with the program, I developed my own algorithm for working in Lightroom, which I almost always use. My 5 simple tips they will help as much as possible only for those who shoot in RAW format and develop photos in batches.
For thoughtful development of each RAW photo individually, I recommend using the original (i.e. native) software. For example, for a Nikon system, this is .
0 (zero point). Importing RAW files.
The essence of the action: prepare the workspace for further file manipulations.
This is a zero, additional point, from which work with Lightroom always begins. To start processing photos, you must first import them into the program. I use fast and primitive loading: I just drag and drop all the files into the Lightroom window and click the 'Import' button. I always import from a directory located on the hard drive. If the import is carried out from a USB flash drive, then the import process will be delayed, since the program will most likely first copy everything source files to your special directory.
Importing has its own peculiarities. When photos are imported into Lightroom, you can sometimes notice how the picture preview(preview) changes its color, saturation, exposure. This is due to the fact that each RAW file contains not only the original information about the image, but also a lot of other additional data. One such data is photo previews for quick viewing. Roughly speaking, a JPEG thumbnail is embedded in the RAW file, which serves to quickly view the captured photo on the camera display. This JPEG thumbnail is based on the settings specified by the camera. When importing photos into Lightroom, the program shows JPEG thumbnails plucked from the RAW file. After trying to view the photo closer, Lightroom builds (renders) a new image directly from the original raw data, using its own presets. Lightroom presets and JPEG thumbnails do not match, which is why the original picture changes before our eyes.
Unfortunately, it is very, very difficult to achieve an exact repetition of all camera settings from Lightroom. In fact, it is impossible to repeat all the camera settings. Only native software can display a RAW image on a computer in full accordance with the one that can be seen on the camera display. But in order to minimize the differences between how the picture looks on the camera display and in the program window, I recommend turn off all additional functions in the camera which enhance the image. For the Nikon system, this primarily concerns the Active function.
All enhancements must be made with Lightroom. It makes sense to use on-camera functions to improve the image only when shooting in JPEG format, or if RAW files will be processed using native software.
After importing, you can add tags, labels, correctly catalog a series of pictures, and set up sorting photos in the feed.
Also, you can import immediately using a specific preset, into which you can write the settings listed below.
1. I set the camera profile.
The essence of the action: basic setting for the most correct / beautiful rendering of the original RAW file.
The setting is located at Develop -> Camera Calibration -> Profile -> select the desired profile
In order for the image generated in Lightroom to be as similar as possible to the one displayed on the camera display, Lightroom needs to specify the correct camera profile. In short, the Camera Profile is a picture management mode that is set on the camera (neutral, saturated, monochrome, etc.).
This is the key point. The correct profile of the camera allows you to significantly improve the visual perception of the image. Finding a good profile for a specific camera is very, very difficult.
Lightroom usually has a set of basic profiles: neutral, saturated, landscape, portrait, etc. These profiles correspond very poorly to similar profiles that are set on the camera.
You can search for a profile for your specific camera yourself. Usually, third-party developers are involved in creating profiles. I'm sure for a large number cameras to find a good profile will not work. In this case, you will need to choose the profile that you like the most.
An already existing profile can be modified, namely to adjust the color offset in the shadows, the offset and saturation of each of the three main channels. After that, you can create a custom preset, writing to it only changes related to Camera Calibration (when creating a preset, you should select only the ‘Calibration’ checkbox).
2. I set the lens profile.
The essence of the action: get rid of the flaws of the lens.
The function is set as follows Develop -> Lens Corrections -> Profile -> Enable Profile Corrections
Everything is simple here. By choosing a lens profile, you can completely get rid of some of the disadvantages of the lens. AT general case this setting allows you to completely cure vignetting and distortion. Also, lenses are treated here. Lightroom has an extensive database of lenses, with which you can “cure” any of them.
If the lens used is not in the list, then you can manually correct these parameters, and then write the result to a preset that can be applied to all photos.
After this adjustment, the distortions introduced by the lens should be leveled.
In the following, the lens profile will be applied to each photo.
3. Optimize and expand the capabilities of the camera and lens.
The essence of the action: make the most beautiful / desired image through basic manipulations with exposure and color.
Everything is very simple here. I usually choose one key photo from a series, or even from an entire shoot, and tweak it around the main parameters:
- Increased DD - restoration of lights and shadows (Highlight recovery, Fill light, Dark)
- Adjusting Vibrance (Vibrance)
- Increase saturation (Saturation)
- Clarity enhancement
- Sharpening
- Noise reduction
The main thing here is not to overdo it.. I try to make the photo "neutral-positive" so that all further manipulations are already repelled from the original "normal" image.
Important: the level of one or another setting is highly dependent on the camera used and the shots directly taken. For example, I clearly know and understand how much this or that slider in Lightroom affects the RAW files of my cameras, and it takes a long time to get used to a new camera and processing its RAW files.
In the future, these settings will be applied to each photo.
4. Synchronize all images by one key photo.
The essence of the action: bring all images under one base view.
After all the previous manipulations, I synchronize all the photos with the changed settings. This is done very simply. In the 'Develop' section, all photos in the feed are selected (CTRL + A) and the 'Sync' button is pressed. In the synchronization menu, I press the 'Check All' button (Select All), after which I uncheck the 'White Balance' (), 'Crop' (Crop), 'Spot Removal' (Spot correction). Captured parameters should not be synchronized, since each photo has its own individual , cropping and spot correction / restoration.
Synchronization is part batch processing. At the end of it, all photos are adjusted to similar settings.
After this manipulation in the Lightroom feed, all the photos are already more or less brought to normal. The previous four points allow you to “bring images to zero” - rid it of the shortcomings of the lens, camera and squeeze the capabilities of the RAW file to the limit. After carrying out these four manipulations, it is already possible to begin real fine processing and prepare the image for the final stage that the client will see.
5. I crop all photos.
The essence of the action: correct framing imperfections - align the horizon, crop the photo with the correct arrangement of details in the frame, cut out key parts of the photo.
Unfortunately, cropping one photo and applying cropping to all photos of the tape will not work. After synchronization basic settings I crop all photos. During the cropping operation, I also selectively remove unsuccessful shots from the Lightroom tape.
Important: I highly recommend cropping photos with fixed frame proportions. The proportions of the classic frame are 3:2. After cropping, all photos have the same frame proportions and do not differ in any way during viewing. If this is not done, then after cropping, photos-squares, strongly elongated stripes, may turn out. This does not correspond to the general style of the photo feed. In addition, during printing, with 100% probability, parts of the frame will be cut off or filled with white space. Usually printed on standard sizes, which also correspond to 3:2 proportions. For almost every shooting, I print photos or mount a photo book, it is very important for me to maintain proportions after cropping. To maintain crop proportions in Lightroom, just click on the padlock icon.
After cropping and deleting unsuccessful frames, I get a “licked” set of photos in the tape, with which further manipulations can be carried out.
Important: I call all specified action ‘ Exit To Zero’, because these simple manipulations allow you to look at the image, devoid of basic flaws, raw, neutral, like Blank sheet, looking at which it is already possible to carry out further fine processing.
I believe that these manipulations can improve the quality of the original image by 30%. The remaining 60% is the refinement of the image through Adobe Photoshop(Photoshop, not Lightroom).
In my practice, it often happens that after completing just these five points, you can already get an image option that can satisfy both me and my clients. Most often, processing is limited to just these five points, if you do not need to retouch photos (eliminate skin imperfections, work with plastic, artistic color correction, etc.).
For me, the most difficult thing in processing is after bringing all the photos from the series / shooting into a digestible form - to choose the best ones for their fine refinement.
6. Export all photos (bonus point)
The essence of the action: get a ready-made result that can be viewed by any user/client on any device.
In this case, export is the process of exporting photos from RAW format to a format that is suitable for further processing or viewing. If I plan to do nothing else then I export to pop jpeg format. If I plan to further refine photos in Adobe Photoshop, then I use the 'TIFF' or 'DNG' format. Recently, laziness has attacked me, I do not use TIFF and export all photos immediately to JPEG.
Eventually My photo processing workflow is divided into two stages: processing in Lightroom and processing in Photoshop. Lightroom - for basic settings, restoration of "wrapped" pictures, batch processing of a tape of photos. Photoshop - for the final “finishing” of photos, retouching, manipulations with layers, masks and more.
Philosophy
I am convinced that a photographer should have a clear plan of action, a clear concept, a well-thought-out methodology with step by step actions photo processing. Spent technological process greatly speeds up and simplifies the processing and delivery of the finished material to the client.
Outcome. My basic processing built like this: import -> set camera profile -> set lens profile -> expand camera/lens options -> synchronize selected settings -> crop -> export. I repeat - this is the basic process, the basis from which my processing begins.
Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.
