Homemade portable phone chargers. Charger for portable batteries

On one of the amateur radio sites I saw a circuit for charging portable Ni-Mn and Ni-Cd batteries with an operating voltage of 1.2-1.4 V from a USB port. With this device, you can charge portable rechargeable batteries with a current of approximately 100 mA. The scheme is simple. It will not be difficult to assemble it even for a beginner radio amateur.

Of course, you can buy ready-made memory. There are a lot of them on sale now and for every taste. But their price is unlikely to satisfy a novice radio amateur or someone who is able to make Charger with your own hands.
I decided to repeat this scheme, but to make a charger for charging two batteries at once. USB 2.0 output current is 500 mA. So you can safely connect two batteries. The finalized scheme looked like this.

I also wanted to be able to connect an external power supply with a voltage of 5 V.
The circuit contains only eight radio components.

From the tool you will need a minimum set of a radio amateur: a soldering iron, solder, flux, tester, tweezers, screwdrivers, a knife. Before soldering radio components, they must be checked for serviceability. For this we need a tester. Resistors are very easy to test. We measure their resistance and compare with the nominal value. There are many articles on the Internet about how to test a diode and an LED.
For the body I used a plastic case measuring 65 * 45 * 20 mm. The battery compartment was cut out of a Tetris children's toy.

I'll tell you more about the alteration of the battery compartment. The point is that initially
the pros and cons of the battery power terminals are set opposite. But I needed two insulated positive terminals in the upper part of the compartment, and one common negative terminal at the bottom. To do this, I moved the lower positive terminal up, and cut out the common negative terminal from tin, soldering the remaining springs.

As a flux when soldering springs, I used soldering acid in compliance with all safety regulations. The place of soldering must be washed in running water until complete removal traces of acid. I soldered the wires from the terminals and passed them inside the case through the drilled holes.

The battery compartment was fixed on the cover of the case with three small screws.
I sawed the board out of the old modulator game console"Dandy". Removed all unnecessary details and printed wiring tracks. Left only the power socket. As new tracks I used thick copper wire. I drilled holes in the bottom cover for ventilation.

The finished board sat tightly in the case, so I did not fix it.

After installing all the radio components in their places, we check the correct installation and clean the board from the flux.
Now let's unsolder the power cord and set the charging current for each battery.
I used a USB cable from an old one as a power cord. computer mouse and a piece of power wire with a plug from Dandy.

The power cord must be given special attention. In no case should you confuse "+" and "-". I have a “+” power plug connected to the center pin with a black wire with a white stripe. And the "-" power goes through the black (without a strip) wire to the outer contact of the plug. On the USB cable, "+" goes to the red wire and "-" to the black one. We solder plus with plus and minus with minus. We carefully isolate the places of soldering. Next, we check the cord for a short circuit by connecting the tester in resistance measurement mode to the plug terminals. The tester should show infinite resistance. Everything must be carefully double-checked, no matter what burns the USB port. If everything is fine, we connect our cord to the USB port and check the voltage on the plug. The tester should show 5 volts.

The last step in the setup is setting the charging current. To do this, we break the circuit of the VD1 diode and the "+" battery. In the gap we connect the tester in the mode of measuring the current turned on to the limit of 200 mA. Plus the tester for the diode, and minus for the battery.

We insert the battery into place, observing the polarity, and apply power. At the same time, the LED should light up. It indicates that the battery is connected. Further, by changing the resistance R1, we set the required charge current. In our case, it is approximately 100 mA. With a decrease in the resistance of the resistor R1, the charging current increases, and with an increase it decreases.

We do the same for the second battery. After that, we twist our body and
the charger is ready to use.
Because different AA batteries have different
capacity, it will take different time to charge these batteries. Batteries
with a capacity of 1400 mAh with a voltage of 1.2 V will need to be charged using this
circuits for approximately 14 hours, and 700 mAh batteries will take only 7 hours.
I have batteries with a capacity of 2700 mAh. But I didn’t want to charge them for 27 hours from a USB port. Therefore, I made a power socket for an external power supply of 5 volts 1A, which I had lying idle.

Here are some more photos of the finished device.

Stickers were drawn using FrontDesigner 3.0. Then printed to laser printer. I cut it out with scissors, pasted it with the front side on a thin adhesive tape 20 mm wide. Cut off excess tape. I used a glue stick as glue, after lubricating it with both the sticker and the place where it is glued. How reliable it is, I don't know yet.
Now the pros and cons of this scheme.
The advantage is that the circuit does not contain scarce and expensive parts and is assembled literally on the knee. It is also possible to power from the USB port, which is important for beginner radio amateurs. No need to puzzle over where to power the circuit. Despite the fact that the scheme is very simple, this method charging is used in many industrial chargers.
It is also possible, by slightly complicating the circuit, to implement switching of the charging current.

By selecting R1, R3 and R4, you can set the charging current for batteries of different capacities, thereby providing the recommended charging current for this battery, which is usually 0.1C (C-capacity of the battery).
Now the cons. The biggest one is the lack of stabilization of the charging current. That is
When the input voltage changes, the charging current will change. Also, if there is an error in the installation or a short circuit of the circuit, there is a high probability of burning the USB port.

Sometimes the chargers used by gadgets fail. There are people who are interested in trying everything themselves. As a result, homemade chargers for the phone are born.

Reasons for making a DIY charger

How to charge your phone? This question does not bother many people, but only until they encounter problems that can lie in wait for everyone.

So, why might we need to create a phone charger?

• The failure of the telephone battery - until the purchase of a new one.
• The ability to recharge the phone where there is no network.
• Ability to create a spare charger.

The most simple solution is the question of how to make a portable battery charger for your phone.

Making a portable charger

How to charge a phone if there are batteries, a compartment for them, for them or an old mobile phone and a USB extension cable?

Batteries must be AA type. In addition, a soldering iron and a tester must be available.

We take 4 batteries (preferably high capacity) and insert them into the compartment for them. We measure the voltage with a tester, it should be at least 5 volts. This is due to the fact that modern phones can be charged from a USB connector, in which the voltage is 5 V.

From the USB extension cable, which is not a pity to use, we cut off the plug that connects to the computer. We study the pinout of the contacts, call the tester. We find + and -, remove the remaining wires with wire cutters and isolate.

We put a thermocambric on the wires and process it with a lighter to ensure a tight entrance. We make a fitting at the place where the plug is attached.

We will need to solder the wires to the metal rivets. For this purpose, soldering acid is used, which can be applied with a tin stick, after which we tin the rivets.

Solder the wires according to their charge.

The connector must be glued to the body, having previously degreased or scraped off the connector and plastic with a knife.

We apply heated glue to the body and press it. Coat with glue around, closing open contacts. The remaining unnecessary wires are bitten off and smeared with glue. If necessary, it can be masked with a marker.

Insert batteries. They must be of the same capacity. At the same time, their total capacity must exceed that of a telephone battery.

Making a charging cable

After making the charging itself, the question "How to make charging for the phone?" cannot be removed because the cable still needs to be made.

We cut off the small connector of the USB cable, the length of the cable should be half a meter.

We cut the wires in the same way. + and - have already been identified, you can not repeat. We bite off the remaining wires, after which we place them in a thermocambric, clean it, tin it.

Batteries can be charged in different designed for them. In most cases, mobile phone chargers can also be used.

You can not complicate your life, but charge the batteries in the appropriate chargers.

Checking the charge

We insert the charged batteries into the booster, to which we connect the USB cable on one side, and on the other side we connect it to the phone and check the charging.

After a while, the voltage on the booster may drop, so it is better to use batteries with a larger capacity.

Thus, we figured out how to make charging for the phone with your own hands.

Wireless charger

Extension cords may stop charging the phone, they may fray, the charging socket in the phone may become loose. All this necessitates wireless charging. How to do wireless charging for phone, see below.

The principle of wireless charging is based on the fact that a coil is built into the charger, which creates a magnetic field, and under the cover of the phone there is another coil that serves as a receiver. When the receiver is in range of the conductor, electromagnetic pulses are activated. Through rectifiers and capacitors, the battery of the phone is affected.

But before you make your choice in favor of wireless charging, you need to consider that it has a number of negative qualities:

• there is no reliable data on the effects on the human body;
• energy transmission is inefficient;
• full battery charge is restored in a longer period of time compared to wired charging;
• battery capacity may be reduced;
• If not installed correctly, the battery may overheat and wear out prematurely.

Let's figure out how to make wireless phone charging.

This requires several meters of thin copper wire. We wind the conductor into a coil with a number of turns equal to 15. To maintain the shape, we fix the spiral with double-sided tape or glue. We leave a few centimeters of wire for soldering. The connection to the charging socket is made using a capacitor and a pulse diode, which are attached to opposite ends.

The size of one turn on the conductor should be 1.5 cm. After twisting, the diameter of the resulting coil is 10 cm.

An even thinner copper wire in the amount of 30 turns is used to form the transmitter. The circuit is closed by a capacitor and a transistor. We place this device into the zone of the transmitting ring upwards with the display.

Finally

Thus, the question of how to charge a phone has several answers. Charging can be portable from batteries, or maybe wireless. In any case, a person who understands electricity should do it, otherwise you can run into problems.

Hello dear friends!

Today I will tell you how to make a "Portable USB Charger" with your own hands.

For this we need:

1. Car charger USB device into the cigarette lighter.

2. Four wires.

3. Small on/off switch. I took it from an old table lamp. But it turned out to be not practical and I replaced it with a light switch.

4. Three rechargeable batteries "Krona".

5. A box of "Fort" coffee, or something else. You need either iron or plastic.

6. Glue gun.

And so: We take our automobile USB charging into the cigarette lighter, disassemble it, take out the board. This is the most important part of our portable charger. On one side of this board you will see a spring and a small piece of iron plate. A spring in the middle is always a plus, and an iron plate on the side is always a minus. The spring can be simply soldered to the board or to the wiring and the wiring is already to the board. It’s the same with this piece of iron on the side .. If the spring is soldered to the board, then we carefully unsolder it and solder the wires in its place. Then the same with this piece of iron. If the spring is soldered to the wiring, then simply unsolder the spring from the wiring. It is the same with this piece of iron. After we soldered the wires to the board, we debug it to the side for now. We proceed to the manufacture of the clamp that we need to connect the battery. The finished clamp can be removed from old children's toys or from anything or where a "Kron" type battery was lured. Or you can make it yourself. To do this, we take one Kron battery, remove the flower from it, turn it over, take a flux for soldering, moka a cotton swab in it and degrease the contacts. Then we take the wires and solder them to the contacts. After soldering, we take a glue gun and apply glue to the place where the wires were soldered. So we just make isolation. Then we take our clamp and connect a battery to it. We do this in order to make sure where we have a plus and where a minus. When we are convinced where is the plus and where is the minus, we take our board to which we soldered the wires instead of the spring with the piece of iron, and twist the wires minus with the minus and carefully isolate the wires that we twisted with electrical tape. And plus we will let through the switch. To do this, we take our switch, it has two contacts, to one we solder the wires that come from our board, and to the other we solder the wires that come from the terminal. Now our charger is almost ready. It remains only to put it all in the case.
To do this, we take our box in my case, this is the "AWP First Aid Kit" box for repairing pneumatic tires .. We make a hole for USB.
Then we make a hole for our switch.

Now we take our insides. And this is our board, switch, and terminal. And we install it all inside the box. We fix the board to the bottom of the box with a glue gun, just like our switch. We also attach it to the box with a glue gun.
Now we connect our battery, close the box. We connect the phone, turn on the charger and our phone is charging. P.S The input power of car USB chargers to the cigarette lighter is only 12V, so in no case do not connect it to power sources over 12V, in which case it will simply burn out. The power of the Kron battery that I used for this portable charger is only 9V, this is enough to charge a phone, iPhone, camera, tablet, etc. Approximately 2-3 times depending on the capacity of your battery..after which you have to change the battery. I have a 3000 mAh battery in my phone, so the "Cron" batteries are enough to maintain the battery charge and not fully charge it. Therefore, I replaced the Kron battery with a 12V battery, which is quite enough to charge the phone. To do this, we simply make 2 terminals from Kron batteries, solder one of them to the battery and simply connect everything to our portable charger. But in order not to buy a new battery every time, I would advise you to purchase a Kron battery charger and when you have one battery running out, you put it on charge and put the other in your portable charger. Or you can make a charger for Kron batteries with your own hands. But as? I will tell you about this in the next issue. Until then, all the best. If you have any questions write to my mailbox.

I have been using communicators for a long time, a very convenient thing all in one - Notebook, calculator, flashlight, video and photo camera, internet, video and MP3 player, navigator, safe (for information), radio, game console, and a lot more. Super gadget - what else can you dream of? And I'll tell you what, about a small nuclear reactor instead of a battery! But on this moment cheer up and rejoice li-ion battery which, with a good load of the device, lasts for 3 hours. There is a way out: we reduce the brightness of the phone to a minimum, turn off the Internet, delete the live wallpaper, switch to the “on the plane” mode, turn it on only to make a call, and then the phone (as stated by the manufacturer) is enough for two days. In general, this is not an option, and I became seriously interested in alternative power sources, we will talk about an additional battery for your gadget or "Vampire"

Let's start with the most basic batteries, I put two li-ion cans bought in radio goods in Vladivostok when I was there on vacation, you can buy in principle any and in any quantities (within reasonable limits) suitable in size, most importantly more greed oh, containers. We increase the capacity by paralleling the banks. You can only parallelize identical batteries, ALWAYS balancing them with each other - we connect the minuses (as a rule, they are the body of the can, and we connect the pluses with a resistor with a resistance of 30 ohms.
With a voltmeter we measure the voltage at the terminals of the resistor. We wait, sometimes a day, sometimes the same values ​​\u200b\u200bare immediately. As soon as it becomes less than a hundred millivolts, they can be connected directly, without a resistor. We solder them together and solder the ends to the controller (can be obtained from any old battery cell phone) Here we have a high-capacity battery.
WORKING WITH NAKED JARS WITHOUT A CONTROLLER, WE BE CAREFUL WE DO NOT CONFUSE THE POLARITY AND IN NO EVENT WILL WE DO A SHORT CIRCUIT!

We put it aside and scratch our turnips than to charge it now, it’s clear that it’s charging from a cell phone. They are everywhere and always, and most of the USB outlet has an outlet.

You can directly solder the wires to the battery and usb dad and plug into the charger, they usually go 5V 1A. But so boring and uninteresting, I decided to make a charge indicator. They turned on the red LED to charge, the battery was charged, the green light turned on, they both turned off from charging.

Transistors marked t06 - p-n-p PMBS3906, 100mA 40V, complementary to PMBS3904. Soldered from an old motherboard.

Resistors R1 and R2 marked 471 - 470 Ohm I got it from old controllers for a cellular battery

Resistor R3 can be set to 1.5 Ohm, but I didn’t find this, put two in parallel, 1 Ohm each, and that turned out to be 0.5 Ohm. I set two because I was afraid that they would get very hot at a charge current of about 0.5A I found the marking 1R00 on the diagram hard drive from laptop.

Diode marked SS14 Description: Diode, Schottky, 1 A, 40 V I was lying around, I didn’t know where, but if there is iron with SMD parts, you will find something similar on it without any problems.

I bought the most common SMD 3V red and green LEDs, but you can solder it in excess from cell phone boards.

I assembled a circuit from what was more or less similar to resistors R1 and R2, you can set the value to 330 ohms

Thank you so much I would like to pass on to the electronics forum cxem.net. The theme of the development of the indicator, by common efforts and especially by the participant Kival Maybe someone will come in handy for general development.

The parts were assembled on a piece of copper-plated textolite cut from the board.

Next, we mount this little wonderful device on the usb “dad”, I dug it out of the old data cable

We stick in the charger and check the performance

Both LEDs light up without load, green goes out under load.
In short, the principle is very simple - when the battery is being charged, the current flows through the circuit and does not allow the green LED to glow, as soon as the controller fulfills that the battery is charged and does not fit into it anymore, the circuit opens, the current stops flowing and the green lights up as soon as you remove the diode from charging D3 does not allow current from the battery to go to the indicator and both go out.

Well, it seems that we have decided on the indicator and charging, now we need to figure out how we will feed the phone from the battery, because we have at the output from 3.7v to 4.2v, and for charging a cell phone it’s gently not less than 5V and even more for Nokia. Here we need a DC-DC boost converter. Here I pass, I won’t draw diagrams and crucify about this, because the Internet is teeming with this material, and I don’t have a radio parts store in my city, so I didn’t bother with soldering this element, but stupidly (or cleverly) ordered from the Internet . You can also buy a Chinese charger from one battery and pick it out from there, but I personally doubt its reliability, but we will charge it, not for free, but for expensive communicators.

It would seem that everything is there and it remains only to connect everything with wires, but during the operation of the device there were some inconveniences, here my device lies like a piece of plastic and it is not clear whether there is a charge in it or is it empty? And lithium ion batteries they really do not like to lie discharged. I wanted a voltmeter, a small compact voltmeter, since the device was assembled and there was no place for it initially. the search for schemes, recipes and ready-made units began. And by chance - I go to a mobile accessories store and see the miracle of the Chinese engineering flight.


Yes, yes, frogs with an LCD screen worth 150 rubles.
I quickly picked it up 🙂 as it turned out, the voltmeter circuit was executed separately, from pulse transformer and is very easy to solder. The most important thing to remember is how the screen was soldered and where to solder the power wires (by the way, as it turned out, the polarity does not matter) Since my memory was relaxed a long time ago digital technologies— decided (not to forget you need to take a picture)


After all the manipulations, we get a voltmeter for 4 divisions With such characteristics 4 bars 4.14V / 3 bars 4.04v / 2 bars 3.94V / 1 bar 3.84V / then an empty battery remains until the battery controller cuts off the power, this is about 3 .4 - 3.6V
Since the voltmeter also consumes a certain amount of electricity that is dear to us, we connect it through a button. Pressed looked released!

Next, we are looking for a suitable box where we can put all our hard-earned, soldered sweat and blood. In an unequal battle, I took the box with shadows from my wife (the shadows and the mirror were returned) and put everything there.

We solder according to the scheme

I placed the USB connectors on a strip of tin in order to increase the area when gluing. We glue the battery on double-sided tape, the button on super glue, the USB connectors are soldered (as mentioned above) are soldered to the tin, which, in turn, is glued to super glue, we cut a rectangular hole under the LCD screen, we carefully install and try on - the glass is very fragile. We sit on hot glue.

Well actually and all! We ennoble to your taste and use the device!

Over time, smartphone batteries use up their capacity, so it becomes uncomfortable to use them and they have to be changed. But you shouldn't throw away such batteries. Once you have enough of them, you can assemble a portable charger. It will turn out to be massive (since it will have much less useful charge than in a new one) but very cheap.

What will be required:

small box
- One or more batteries
- Step-up voltage converter (for example, from 0.9-5 to 5 V)
- Battery charging board
- Switch
- Soldering iron and wires, hot glue and gun

Choose a box large enough to fit all the batteries, plus the voltage converter and charging board.

Connect the battery contacts in series. This will keep their original voltage (usually less than 5 V) and increase the total capacitance. Connect this design to a voltage converter. It will increase the voltage supplied from the batteries up to 5 V, which are used to charge smartphones.

Assemble the components according to this diagram. The switch and diode are needed so that when charging, the current flows to the charging board and batteries, and not to the buck converter.

Place the batteries and boards in the case, fill them with hot glue so that they do not hang out, and bring the battery charging port and the smartphone charging output port to the case.

Keep in mind that not all smartphone batteries will be able to work smoothly in this scheme. In some cases, they will start to charge each other and fizzle out when all the energy is spent on heating and losses in electronics. In addition, the maximum capacity of a composite battery may be limited by the capacity of the weakest battery. Therefore, it is recommended to use one battery (although in this case it will not be enough to fully charge the smartphone) or batteries of the same brand.