Is the psp 3008 charged by usb. What charger is suitable for Sony PSP and where to buy it? What to do if PSP won't charge
Hello, Muska readers. Today I will tell you about a 5 volt charger for PSP (hereinafter referred to as PSU) or about where I applied 30 points received from the promotion.
To whom it is interesting - I ask under cat.
Lyrical digression
I have been buying via the Internet since 2011 and mainly from brothers from the Middle Kingdom. Accordingly, I also read this wonderful site for a long time and regularly. I myself periodically visited the idea of writing a review for some of my next purchase from China, but laziness prevailed over good intentions. And suddenly my inner writer triumphed over laziness. Although I’m a little cunning about suddenness - the authors who inspired me in person and with their amateur radio reviews contributed to this “accomplishment”, the potential opportunity to earn “goodies” from the site, and, of course, an increase in free time due to additional days off at work (citizens "The land fell with white wings" will understand). This should be the end of digressions (they would not exist at all, but this is my writing debut on this site, so I decided to introduce you a little to my “purchasing” part of my personality).
I will not give a photo of the packaging of the goods and the process of unpacking it, I do not think that anyone is interested. I will only clarify that the parcel was sent by China Post without a track number and arrived in a record time for me - 16 days (usually delivery takes from 25 days). The order was made on 27.02, the letter confirming the dispatch of the goods came on 28.02. Sending in 1 day is a good result - for this the store is a plus. Oh yes, in the CN22 customs declaration it was indicated that the gamepad was in the parcel and, returning home from the post office, I went over the options in my head how this happened, because I definitely did not order gamepads. What an intrigue the store is another plus!
The product description from the store's website says specifications Oh; about the compatibility of the PSU with various models PSP; about high quality; about the built-in protection providing safe charging; about a stable output and fast charging, and so on. In general, see for yourself:
A vigilant buyer, of course, will immediately notice 2 types of stickers in the PSU photos provided on the store page, I have this sticker:
I unpacked the package - plugged the PSU into the network and measured the output voltage - 5.36V, it looks like the PSU is working. I rarely believe sellers at their word, especially when it comes to narrow-eyed brothers. In this case, by the weight of the PSU, I doubted its capabilities even more (unfortunately, I don’t have scales at my disposal, but the customs declaration indicates the weight of 95 grams, this is the weight of the entire package with packaging and cables). Experience suggested that a two-amp power supply could not be so light. The overall dimensions of the box are as follows: 76x46x23mm.
Length network cable without taking into account the length of the plugs - 99 cm, the resistance of each wire measured from plug to plug was more than 0.3 Ohm, however, for such a frail PSU (5V * 2A / 0.6 = 16.7W, I accept an efficiency of 60% in the mode of the declared rated load) it does not matter, but for the output cable, these characteristics are critical. Its length (from the plug to the board tracks) is 112 cm, the resistance of each wire is 0.15 Ohm, which in total gives 0.3 Ohm or, with a declared current of 2 Amperes, a voltage drop of 0.6 Volts (besides, at 2A the cord will heat up - copper wire diameter less than 0.4mm). For PSP charging, a voltage drop of 0.6V most likely will not be reflected, but on the other hand, 0.6 Volts from 5 Volts is 12%. I am not strong in standardization and certification, but 12% for a PSU with "High quality assurance" is unacceptable :). Well, we theoretically speculated about the wires, it's time to move on to the filling, practical measurements and verification of the compliance of real technical characteristics with the declared ones.
Not finding the fixing screws of the PSU case and making a couple of turns with a mediator at the junction of the two halves of the case, I came to the conclusion that the case is attached by glue (saved). Therefore, the plectrum was replaced by a metalwork knife, under the influence of which the plastic halves cracked open (it should be noted that the knife jumped off a couple of times and therefore the BP acquired battle scars). Here he is, the hero of the naked review:
The first thought that visited me when I saw the “offal” of the power supply unit is that miracles do not happen, I can’t see free two amperes. The size of the transformer (or rather the choke, because it is a flyback converter) is minimal (the core is E 13/7/4, which is used in all cheap mobile phone chargers, it is unlikely that it will be possible to remove more than 4W from it). From the material of the board, too, there was a breath of cheapness - getinaks. Some details are missing. Reversing the board:
The quality of the soldering is normal, traces of flux are seen only at the legs of the network connector, the silk-screen printing on both sides is well readable. principled circuit diagram real device as follows:
Before us is a typical single-cycle flyback voltage converter, made in the form of a blocking generator.
We are trying to be smart or the details and the principle of operation of the circuit
At the entrance, there is no filter from emissions into the network from this PSU (I was dreaming of something). Used to rectify the mains voltage diode bridge(although they didn’t save here) made on four diodes VD1-VD4 type 1N4007. Capacitor C1 with a capacity of 4.7uF and an operating voltage of up to 450V (wow, even better PSUs cost 400V input filter capacitors) serves to filter 100 Hz ripple and provides required level constant voltage 310V (usually the value of its capacitance is taken equal to at least the power of the PSU, i.e. 1uF = 1W) for the converter. Resistor R1 is designed to limit the charging current C1 when the PSU is connected to the network (in more expensive PSUs, a thermistor is used as R1).
Resistor R2 creates a bias for transistor Q1, which is necessary for the initial start-up of the PSU. Generation is supported by capacitor C3 included in the positive feedback circuit on winding II, the generation frequency depends on its capacitance and parameters T1. When Q1 is unlocked, the voltage at the lower terminals of the windings I and II according to the diagram is negative, at the upper ones it is positive, the positive half-wave through the capacitor C3 opens Q1 even more, the voltage amplitude in the windings increases - Q1 opens like an avalanche. As the capacitor C3 charges, the base current begins to decrease, Q1 begins to close, the voltage at the top output of the winding II begins to decrease, through the capacitor C3 the base current decreases even more, and Q1 closes like an avalanche. Resistor R6 is needed to limit the base current of Q1. After Q1 is closed by the self-induction EMF amplitude through the VD7 diode (which is a Schottky diode of the 1N5819 type with a direct current of 1A, so even if you close your eyes to the small overall power T1, the current 2A will not allow you to get this diode), the capacitor C5 is recharged (cheap electrolytic capacitor with a permissible voltage of 10V and a capacitance of 470uF) and voltage is supplied to the PSU output. Resistor R4 - current sensor of the primary winding T1. When the amount of current flowing through transistor Q1 becomes large, the voltage drop across resistor R4 increases and opens Q2 through resistor R5, which limits the base current of transistor Q1 and, accordingly, the current of the primary winding T1. In the same way, negative Feedback voltage providing stabilization of the output voltage - if the voltage is exceeded (the stabilization voltage of the zener diode plus the voltage drop on the optocoupler LED plus the voltage drop on R8), current will flow through the zener diode U1, which is at the PSU output, and the optocoupler LED IC1 will start to glow, its phototransistor will slightly open, positive voltage from capacitor C4 acts on Q2. Resistor R8 limits the current of the zener diode, and R7 protects the optocoupler LED from being damaged by its high current. Components R3, C2, VD5 form a damper that dampens the surge created by the primary winding T1 when Q1 is closed, thereby protecting the latter from breakdown. CY1 is a special noise suppression capacitor (I believe that this is an ordinary capacitor with a breakdown voltage of 800 or more volts). As C2 and CY1, faceless capacitors are used, the capacitance of which is 1nF measured by an LC meter.
And now the measurements.
As mentioned earlier, at idle, the power supply outputs a voltage of 5.36V, which, by the way, has never changed even a hundredth in 10 minutes (but this does not mean that the power supply has such good stabilization, rather it indicates that cheap multimeters with auto-switching of the ranges of the measured values have a large inertia, and this is exactly what I did given dimension). Let's look at the oscilloscope:
In a cage 1kHz and 0.1V. The ripple amplitude is 0.25V. Long vertical lines these are short 50kHz pulses that are not visible on the faster sweep of my oscilloscope. But under load, you can clearly observe these pulses that have increased many times over:
The load current is 0.46A, the output voltage is 5.13V. In a cage, 50kHz and 0.2V, i.e. ripple amplitude 0.6V. Of the parts, only the throttle is heated (I did not measure the temperature with a multimeter because the heating is insignificant). At a load current of 0.84A, the output voltage ranges from 4.92-4.98V, the ripple amplitude increased to 0.7V, while T1 gets very hot - about 80 degrees (this is heating for a test for 2-3 minutes in the absence of a PSU case). I didn’t load it any more because the VD7 Schottky diode at the output of the PSU can emit magical smoke, which is the basis of the operation of all electronics. :)
For comparison, I give the output voltage ripple at idle of the cheapest (at the time of purchase) bought a long time ago on BiK with a declared output current of 0.5A:
In one cell, 1kHz and 0.2V, under load, everything is much sadder than that of the monitored PSU. In reality, more than 0.2A cannot be removed from the BiKovsky charge.
And here are the oscillograms of the output voltage ripple of the original charge from the old Nokia with a declared output current of 0.3A. Idling (no focus on the photo due to the fact that it was filmed in low natural light):
Looks really bad? Vice versa! These ripples with a frequency of 190kHz and an amplitude of 0.08mV (in a cage 200kHz and 0.02V)!
Oscillogram under load 0.4A:
In a cage, 200kHz and 0.1V, i.e. these are ripples with a frequency of 75 kHz and an amplitude of 0.3 V when the declared rated current is exceeded by 33%. Both charges are made according to the same typical scheme. Such differences in the quality of the output voltage are due to the accuracy of the calculation and the quality of the design of the inductor.
There are no measurements of switching currents and voltages due to the lack of instruments for their registration (an analog oscilloscope of the s1-65 type cannot be observed).
Is it possible to improve the observed PSU, and if so, how? If you have at your disposal, in addition to a soldering iron, various parts, then yes. Firstly, to increase the capacitance of the output capacitor C5, this will reduce the ripple of the output voltage (the rule works here you can’t spoil the porridge with oil with two reservations. The first is that with a significant value of this capacitance, its charging current will break through the VD7 diode when the PSU is turned on. The second is that high-capacity capacitors cost money , which are impractical to invest in this design) and install a constant capacitor with a capacity of at least 0.1 μF in parallel with it, which will “make life easier” for C5 and slightly reduce high-frequency (50+ kHz) output voltage ripple. Second, solder the provided printed circuit board chip TL431 instead of a zener diode with the necessary strapping for it, this should give greater stability of the output voltage. Thirdly, increase the capacitance of the capacitor C1 to 10 μF (it does not make sense above, and besides, it will require the installation of a thermistor or a resistor with a higher resistance as R1), which will allow better loading primary winding T1 at high currents at the PSU output, and therefore remove a little more power. Fourth, replace the output cable. Fifth, replace the VD7 diode with a diode with a lower voltage drop, which will also allow you to remove a little more output power.
Oscillograms of the output voltage with a double capacitance of the output capacitor C5 (a 470μFx50V capacitor was soldered in parallel to C5):
Idling, in a cage 1kHz and 0.1V, the ripple amplitude was only 0.06V, the output voltage is still the same 5.36V.
With a load current of 0.46A, the output voltage is 5.13V. In a cell of 50 kHz and 0.2 V, the shape of the pulsation pulses became smoother - there are no sharp peaks and, accordingly, their amplitude became much lower - less than 0.4 V.
I did not increase the capacity of C5 in my PSU - I just added a 220nF smd capacitor to it. I also did not increase the capacitance of the input capacitor C1, because I decided that I don’t need to remove more than 0.45A from the PSU. But I replaced the zener diode with a TL431 and soldered a three-ampere smd-diode of the SS36 type as a VD7 diode (because I have enough TL431 and SS36 - they were once ordered from China in packs of 100 pieces). For TL431, I picked up the resistance of the divider resistors R9 and R10 to get exactly 5 volts at the output. As a result, with the same load resistors, I got the following:
Load current 0A (idle) - output voltage 5.01V - ripple 0.25V.
Current 0.45A - output voltage 4.98V - ripple 0.6V.
Current 0.84A - output voltage 4.95V - ripple 0.6V.
Current 1.14A - the output voltage fluctuates between 3.96-4.00V - the ripple exceeds 1V.
Current 1.38A (short circuit through a multimeter) - the output voltage is near zero. Those. the inductor cannot deliver a current of more than 1.38A (although it can only deliver such a current for a short time, because it will overheat in this mode). It is also obvious that the use of TL431 reduced the dependence of the output voltage drawdown on the load current.
When ordering this PSU, I already assumed two options for its use, depending on the actual output current: if about 2A - the power of one of my self-propelled guns, if less - it will fit to power the recently purchased w3020 wifi router (the current consumed by the router does not go beyond 0.45A). And since for the router, then it was “implanted” into the PSU case USB type A. This is what it looks like after my "doping":
The schematic began to look like this:
The USB is fixed with glue for a hot glue gun. TL431 is not “stacked” by chance, so it turns out to be as far as possible from T1, which heats up significantly, and TCS TL431, although good, is not ideal.
Now this PSU is working 24/7 under my strict control.
The PSU housing in the throttle area is warm.
Time to take stock. The power supply unit can and will charge the PSP, but it does not correspond to the declared characteristics. Short circuit protection it does not, because with K.Z. the diode VD7 will break through (and in general, correctly calculated flyback converters are not afraid of short circuit at the output). The real current, which can give the PSU to the load for a long time, is not more than 0.5A. stable output and fast charging? - Well, you understand. :)
The conclusion is obvious - I do not recommend anyone to buy this product for 1.55 + shipping.
Technical documentation for some components used in the described PSU:
P.S. For measurements I used:
Soviet-made student ruler; multimeter ADM02 made in China; LC meter 4070L made in China; Soviet-made S1-65 oscilloscope; wire resistance measurements were made by an indirect method using a self-made current source and a multimeter; powerful fixed resistors of 11, 5.8 and 3.3 ohms were used as a load. The above measuring instruments did not pass any special accuracy checks, but their readings are sufficient for these measurements of accuracy. :)
P.P.S.: All of the above is the fruit of my judgments and therefore does not claim to be complete or true. I regret if the process of familiarizing the reader with this text was accompanied by any negative feelings.
P.P.P.S: I will be glad to constructive criticism and I am ready to the best of my ability to answer questions of interest on the topic of the product under review.
I plan to buy +10 Add to favorites Liked the review +52 +91
The main advantage of any portable game console is the ability to play anywhere, without being tied to the network, TV or sofa. This is different and - the most popular handheld console from Sony.
However, they still have disadvantages. In particular, it is the need to periodically charge the battery. Of course, the same Playstation Portable with default settings brightness can provide up to 6-7 hours battery life. But you still need to recharge. And how can this be done?
Available chargers for PSP
Fortunately, the issue of replenishing battery energy in this system is thought out comprehensively. And this means that you can restore the charge in various ways. First of all, use the standard Charger included in the kit. It is connected to a 220 V network, connected to a separate socket on the set-top box and allows you to fully power the battery in a few hours. At the same time, you can play freely at this moment, which is very convenient. But keep in mind that it is best to use only original components to prevent damage to the battery. Where can I buy a PSP charger? Accessories can be found in specialized online stores.
Of course, these are not all options. If you don’t have a charger or a free outlet at hand, then a computer or laptop can save you. The portable PSP is equipped with a Mini USB port through which you can connect to another device. And if the USB port of a PC or laptop can provide enough charge, then the console will charge. To do this, do the following:
- insert the cable into the console and into the PC;
- select the USB charging function in the set-top box menu.
Here you should also use high-quality wire.
For car owners, in specialized stores for game consoles, a charger for Sony's PSP from the cigarette lighter may be available for sale. Just insert the device, connect the cable, and the system starts charging. Convenient and takes up minimal space.
If you are on the road, and there is neither a charger, nor a cigarette lighter, nor a laptop at hand, then an external power source can save the day. For example, Power bank. But here it is important that the device can provide a sufficient level of current. Otherwise, the PSP simply will not be able to get a charge and, of course, be charged.
How to charge a cell phone without a charger. How to charge a mobile phone without a charger? Many people have to deal with the situation when the battery of the mobile phone has run out of charge, but it is not possible to charge the battery. At the moment, I don’t want to visit the store for a charger, but I need to call
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Home » How to charge your psp battery without a charger
How to charge a cell phone without a charger.
How to charge a cell phone without charger devices? Many people have to deal with a situation where the mobile phone’s battery has run out of charge, and charging battery never succeeds. On) the myth of the moment is not willing to visit the store for a charger, but you need to call urgently. It will not be difficult to be on the train or to be at the workplace, and colleagues, unfortunately, do not have such a model, in the image of you. In general, the charger is a very fragile thing, it can get under your feet at any moment. Or your charger is broken by falling from a height. It happens like this: in the dead of night, it is for you that you need to call on a very important matter, on which your future fate depends. There is an option to wait for a comfortable option in order to purchase a new one, alas, you need to test charging without a charger, as there are several methods to do this.
The first method to charge your phone without a charger is charging with a computer. To do this, you need to have a desktop, laptop or tablet with a USB connector at home, and, of course, you need to have a suitable adapter for the connector of your charger devices to USB. On the this moment many manufacturers have connectors connected to mini- and macro-USB standards, so users have several similar cables. You need another PC, if it is not there, you can ask a neighbor - and the case will be made. And at the moment, the 2nd method of charging a mobile phone without a charger, according to this method, you need to work a little with performing several sequential actions. 1st step of the second charging method. it technical method mobile phone charging. For this, you need to take at least some charger of a long-lost or broken phone. At home, each of them has several pieces lying unnecessarily. 2nd step. You need to cut off the phone connector on this charger. Then, using a sharp knife, you need to make a radial incision and remove the insulation in such a way that two bare wires of blue and reddish color remain. 3rd step. The next step is to connect the wires to the battery and fix them. Next, you will have to remove the battery from your mobile phone and take a close look at the golden contacts marked "" plus and "-" minus nearby. Later, you need to lean against the plus contact - the blue wiring of the battery plus the contact of your charger, and the minus contact of the reddish color wiring to the minus of the battery. Pressing the wires tightly to the contacts, you need to fix it with insulating tape or tape. If your actions are correct, the battery starts charging after connecting the charger to the network. Bare wires must not be touched to avoid the impact of an electronic current, although not strong.
We charge the PSP without a native power supply.
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Quick reliable way charge psp, without native charger.
How to make exercises for PSP.
Group in vk.
Method 3 can be called finger, how to charge a phone without a charger. You are going on a hike or a business trip. You have already encountered the problem of charging your phone battery during multi-day trips, so you will have to prepare in the right way. You can take a spare battery for you. charge phone in field conditions. You can also use a third method to charge your phone. You have the opportunity and time to prepare, then you can use a home-made device that is based on ordinary AA batteries to charge your phone. For creation homemade device you will need a similar box in a radio parts or electronics store and solder a suitable connector to it, although you can make it yourself from spare parts. This is the charging method. mobile battery without a charger is suitable only for those who have a mini-USB connector or have an appropriate adapter.
One comment on the entry “How to charge mobile phone without charger ”
Somehow I had to heat the battery by the fire. To be honest, it's not the most ideal option. I've been taking an external charger with me ever since. solar battery sititek Sun-Battery sc-09. Hopeless situations in nature have diminished.
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Quite often, users of game consoles are faced with a problem when PSP is not charging. Naturally, it is impossible to continue its further operation. What to do? We do not recommend wasting time trying to charge it, moreover, it can end quite badly. It is best to contact our service center where you will definitely be helped. Our masters will first determine why not charging accumulator battery PSP. To do this, we will conduct a free diagnosis.
So, why is the PSP not charging?
As a rule, in 95% of cases the whole thing is as follows:
1. The most common reason is that the charging itself has failed. Try another one that you are sure is 100% functional. If this helps, then just buy a new charger.
2. If USB PSP not working it is possible that the connector itself has failed. You have to deal with this quite often. In this case, only a complete replacement of the connector will help.
3. It is possible that the connector may be partially torn out. This is usually checked in a simple way. Just pull the plug in different directions, from this charging will appear and disappear. Solving this problem with the connector simple recovery tracks of the board in the place of soldering the connector.
The main advantage of a portable game console is the ability to play anywhere. This is provided by batteries or a rechargeable battery. The last type of power supply is implemented in the PSP console, and further we will talk about the intricacies and features of charging this device.
There are many ways to charge the battery of Sony's first handheld console. They can be divided into two large groups - full-time and freelance. The first includes the use of a complete charger (for a home or car network) and a USB connection to a computer. The second is the use of a third-party power supply and charging the battery separately from the set-top box.
Method 1: Complete charger
The best way to replenish energy in the PSP battery is to use a standard power supply.
Method 2: USB charging
For cases when the charger is lost or cannot be accessed for other reasons, Sony engineers have provided an alternative option, which is to get power from the USB port of a computer or laptop.
Attention! It is not recommended to use chargers for phones and tablets, as there is a risk of damaging the battery or reducing its capacity!
Method 3: Third party charger
If options with standard charging or USB connection are not available, you can use a third-party charger - there are universal power supplies on the market with many common connectors (nozzles) and switching transformer operating modes.
The options for the PSP are as follows:
- Voltage - 5V;
- Input voltage and frequency - 100-240V and 50/60Hz, respectively;
- Power - 2A (series 1000 and 2000) and 1.5A (series 3000, Go and Street).
However, even if the installation correct parameters stable operation from a third-party power source is not guaranteed, so we recommend using this method only as a last resort.
Method 4: Universal PSU for batteries
The most difficult situation is when the regular power connector is broken in the console and the battery is completely discharged. In this case, you can try to recharge the battery using a universal frog charger.
Attention! You perform all the actions described below at your own peril and risk!
What to do if PSP won't charge
Sometimes, even if all the rules and recommendations are observed, the PSP does not charge. Let's look at the most common causes and methods to fix the problem.
- If the console does not charge when connected via USB, repeat steps 1-3 of Method 2. Once again, we remind you that when the battery is completely discharged, it can only be charged through the plug or separately from the set-top box.
- It is also worth checking the charger, especially if it is not original - perhaps set parameters are not suitable, causing the battery to go into overload protection and not charge. The original PSU can be tested on another PSP or other device with a suitable connector. If problems are found, replace the charger.
- It is also possible that the battery is to blame for the problem. Usually, its failure is accompanied by other symptoms, such as:
- Suspiciously fast charge up to 100%;
- Short (less than 30 minutes) battery life of the set-top box;
- Jumps in charge indicators (for example, first 40%, then 50%, then 40% again).
If you've experienced one or more of the above, it's likely that your PSP's battery has failed and needs to be replaced.
- If both the power supply and the battery are known to be good, the problem lies in the hardware of the set-top box itself. Usually, repairing such problems at home is impossible, so you will have to contact a service center.
Conclusion
Now you know how to charge the PSP and what to do if the set-top box does not charge. Finally, we remind you once again - use only original accessories, as they are most compatible with the console.
