How to make a fly swatter out of newspaper. The principle of operation and features of the operation of an electric fly swatter

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Every warm season - from spring to autumn, throughout the entire foreseeable history of human existence, various harmful insects pester him, and the stronger, the closer to nature he is. And the most common of them, of course, are mosquitoes and flies. Man fought against them always and everywhere, but so far he has not been able to win a complete victory. But it is known that even one mosquito can keep you awake all night, and an annoying fly interferes with work so much that it can lead you out of balance. Therefore, a "weapon" against them (for example, an ordinary fly swatter) should always be ready and at hand.

However, commercially available fly swatters, even with a gentle blow, flatten the insect so that only a wet place remains from it, but unfortunately it is poorly or not washed at all. So you have to wait until a fly or a mosquito sits on a place where you can kill an insect without undesirable consequences, and sometimes the hunt drags on for a long time.

So I had to invent my own fly swatter.

The shape and design of the fly swatter is traditional: the striker is in the form of a spatula attached to a rather long, thin handle. But there are in this weapon against insects and "proprietary" features. The handle consists of a rod made of thick aluminum wire and a sheath put on it - a PVC tube. If necessary, the handle can also be bent to act as a “weapon” from around a corner or in a hard-to-reach (for a fly swatter with a straight handle) place.

The free end of the handle shaft is bent into a ring so that the fly swatter can be hung for storage on a hook or just a nail in the wall. But the main brand secret is in the material of the striker.

Probably, many people remember how in childhood they sometimes managed to catch soap bubbles with their hands, dressed in woolen mittens. This led to the idea to make a striker from a similar material, only denser and heavier.

1 - striker (from the shaft of an old felt boot), 2 - seam (harsh thread); 3 - handle shell (PVC tube); 4 - handle rod (aluminum wire Ø8)

And I picked up such material - a bootleg from an old Siberian felt boot. In the warmer regions of Russia, felt boots, even old ones, are more difficult to find. Then you can use a dense thick woolen insole for the striker.

To attach the striker to the handle, I cut a 20-mm groove in the shell the width of the striker, and at the end of the rod I ground a flat and drilled two diametrical holes perpendicular to it in the rod and the shell. Through these holes, the striker was sewn to the handle with harsh threads.

Having tested the weapon in action, I was convinced that it strikes insects (both flies and mosquitoes) on the spot and without traces - even on smooth glass, and without excessive noise-pop, characteristic of an ordinary fly swatter with a rubber or plastic "warhead".

A. MATVEYCHUK, Zavodoukovsk, Tyumen region

From early summer to late autumn, the rest or entertainment of many summer residents and tourists is hindered by nightlife - clouds of flying insects, moths, etc. "Electronic" protection is suitable against them. which is not as efficient though. like pesticides, but more environmentally friendly!

Below is a description of such an insect trap.

Our trap comes from the "psychology of insects" that the light of an incandescent lamp lures them to itself. And here they are trying to get to the lamp through the wire mesh.

The stretched wire mesh is connected to high voltage. The individual wires are at such a distance from each other that the breakdown strength of the air is at its limit.

An insect flying through the mesh reduces this distance, so electricity high-voltage discharge, and the insect dies.

The foregoing already suggests that we are talking about such a device, where electronics - due to its extreme simplicity - is a secondary problem in comparison with the mechanical design. Despite this, we will first consider wiring diagram, which is shown in Fig. 1 and is offered in two versions.

This scheme is divided into the following main blocks:

• network barrier filter (noise filter);
• electronic regulator:
• high voltage transformer.

The circuit (Fig. 1a) works as follows. Capacitor C2 is charged from mains voltage through diode rectifier D1 and resistor R2 to the peak mains voltage (310 V). This voltage passes through primary winding transformer T1 to the anode of the thyristor Th.

On the other branch (Rl, D2, C1), the capacitor C1 is slowly charged. When, during charging C1, the breakdown voltage of the dinistor D1 is reached (within 25 ... 35 V), the capacitor C1 is discharged through the control electrode of the thyristor Th and opens it. Through an open thyristor and the primary winding T1, C2 is discharged very quickly.

The pulsed alternating current induces a high voltage in the secondary winding T1, the magnitude of which can exceed 10 kV.

After the capacitor is discharged, the thyristor closes and the process repeats.

Permissible voltages of the elements must correspond to the values ​​\u200b\u200bspecified in the diagram. The most important problem is the manufacture of a high-voltage transformer.

High voltage transformer

You can use a ready-made high-voltage winding, which is nothing more than the secondary winding of a horizontal-scan transformer of a black-and-white TV (known as "millstones"). The operation of the transformer in quiet times is somewhat "grouchy".

However, the accompanying sound phenomena are even useful - because they indicate the presence of high voltage. for example, when the incandescent lamp in the trap burned out.

A silently operating device could play a cruel joke on an unsuspecting inadvertently approaching passerby.

The inlet filter is a necessary companion for any thyristor-controlled circuit. The device creates radio and TV interference, and the filter unit makes it easy to watch radio and TV programs.

Wire "curtain" and mechanical design

The most critical part of our design is the very precise fabrication of the wire curtain. To obtain it from any good insulating material (for example, from a textolite or plexiglass plate 4 mm thick), two disks with a diameter of 170 mm and two disks with a diameter of 150 mm are cut.

Along the perimeters of each pair of discs, cuts with a depth of 5 mm (36 pieces) are made with a jigsaw every 10 °. Then the disks are marked through 120 ° and holes with a diameter of 5 mm are drilled.

After that, support holders are made. In the prototype, these were 3 brass rods 210 mm long and 5 mm in diameter, at one end of which there was a thread 50 mm long. and on the second - 30 mm long.

The disks are assembled together so that the two smaller ones are on the inside and the two large ones are on the outside.

Disks with small and large diameters are mounted on the threaded ends of the rods at a distance of approximately 15 mm from each other.

It is advisable to set the slots of the small and large disks in this way. so that they do not fall on the same line, but are shifted to the middle of each other by about 15 mm.

The bottom of the frame will be those disks into which the ends of the rods with a longer thread are screwed, and with a shorter one - a cover.

If the frame is assembled normally, the upper disks are removed, and holes for the incandescent lamp cartridge are sawn in their middle with a jigsaw.

The dimensions depend on the lamp used. I used a minion lamp socket.

It is also necessary to take care of such a fastening of the cartridge (for example, removable from above) so that the lamp can be replaced without disassembling the grids.

Uninsulated was used for the mesh copper wire with a diameter of 0.45 ... 0.5 mm. It must first be immediately stretched into the slots along the perimeter of the disk. If you use wire with enamel insulation, the work will increase somewhat. From it you need to remove the insulation along the entire length with sandpaper.

After installing the inner and outer parts of the curtain, the ends are taken from the large and small discs and connected to the ends of the high voltage winding.

The finished design is fixed on a suitable plastic box in which the electronics are placed.

Installation and operation

The shape of the board must match the shape and dimensions of the plastic box.

The high voltage transformer is assembled like this.

The primary winding is removed from the core of the high-voltage transformer "extracted" from the TV, and a new coil is made in accordance with its dimensions.

For the new primary winding, winding wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm is used. The number of turns is 25. For secondary winding any defect-free "millstones" are suitable for a black-and-white TV.

High-frequency ferrite cores with about 20 turns of winding wire with a diameter of 0.6 ... 0.8 mm are best suited for a barrier filter.

After the final installation of the electronics board in place, the network cable, and the wire curtain is connected to the "millstones". After switching on, the lamp lights up, and the whole device quietly "grumbles", signaling the presence of high voltage.

Sparks do not jump through the double wire mesh. If they still slip, then either the voltage is too high or the rows of wires are too close to each other. With fixed geometric dimensions of the curtain, the required voltage is set by adjusting the electronic circuit.

The test ends with a spark test with a screwdriver. Insert a screwdriver between two rows of wires - now sparks should jump on both sides of the screwdriver.

big internal resistance the transformer winding itself protects against a dangerous amount of current in the event of a discharge.

Despite the non-lethal value of the current generated by the circuit, I nevertheless strongly remind you of the observance of the rules related to working with high voltage as in manufacturing. as well as during operation.

Touching the wire "cage" with your hands will be very unpleasant. Therefore, when placing it, you need to think about how to use the device only in the dry season, or place it where accidental contact is impossible.

An electric fly swatter can be called an innovative device in our market. In small but sure steps, this device displaces aerosols, adhesive tape traps, baits and even good old newspaper rolled up into a tube. Outwardly, the device resembles a badminton racket with a comfortable long handle. Only the mesh is not woven from fishing line, but from thin metal wire. This is the working surface of the electric fly swatter.

Principle of operation. The pseudo racket is arranged according to the sandwich rule: a positively charged fine grid in the center of the device is surrounded on both sides by large-mesh gratings with a negative charge. The insect enters the hole and is trapped. By touching the “core”, a fly or a mosquito provokes an electric discharge and become victims of the current themselves.

Specifications. Tension inside working surface(grid) reaches 2000-3000 volts (depending on the model). A blocking generator is built into the electric fly swatter, which converts the modest voltage of AA batteries into such a powerful indicator.

Despite the high voltage, the current strength is much less - it is barely enough to kill small insects (flies and mosquitoes), and the device only stuns large specimens, such as hornets and bumblebees.

Accordingly, if a person accidentally touches a metal mesh, he will feel only a sensitive tingling, nothing more (remember the birds sitting on the wires). However, to get to the "core", you will have to remove the two protective grids on the sides, so that contact with the high voltage zone is almost impossible.

Rechargeable fly swatter

Instructions for an electric fly swatter

1. Turn on the device by pressing the button located on the handle. An indicator light will come on, indicating that the electric fly swatter is ready for use.
2. If you hunt annoying "guests" in the dark, use the built-in flashlight (some models work in several modes).
3. In order for an insect to fall into a trap, it is not necessary to apply “point strikes”: one swing of the “racket” - and the enemy is defeated. The disturber of the peace immediately dies, only in contact with a metal grid through which electricity passes. Large individuals, such as hornets or bumblebees, are only deafened by a current discharge.
4. Turn off the device after use. Remove insects remaining on the surface of the grate with a regular brush.

It is not required to strike, it is enough to “drive” the insect into the working area

The benefits and harms of an electric fly swatter

Advantages:

• The electric fly swatter runs on a pair of AA batteries or more. capacious battery. Charging time most often varies from 8 to 10 hours. Charger works from standard network(voltage 220 V).
• The device functions with equal success in an apartment, in a country house, in a country house, in a tent and in the fresh air.
• Unlike traditional flappers, there are no unsightly stains left on walls, furniture or curtains after using an electrical appliance.
• The device copes with both small midges (mosquitoes, midges, moths) and larger individuals: wasps, flies, hornets. In one stroke, you can deal with a small swarm.
• The electric fly swatter is environmentally friendly, does not emit odors and toxins such as aerosols or smoke bombs and spirals.

Flaws:

• Inconvenient bulky design: to kill an insect, it must be driven between two nets.
• The victim often gets stuck in the fly swatter, and the corpse has to be pulled out.
• Inexpensive models due to Low quality assemblies can literally fall apart in the hands of components.
• Expensive devices do not “lose” parts, but they also cost well above average.
• Chasing a fly, you can casually break a glass or a vase.

Safety. In order for the device to serve you faithfully, follow the basic precautions:

• Do not use water to remove insects from the grate surface. Protect your device from rain.
• Do not touch the work surface while the appliance is on.
• Refrain from killing insects near flammable substances.
• After application, "remove" the residual charge from the grid with a metal object with an insulated handle.
• Although the applied current is only lethal to insects, do not allow children or pets to play with the device. Keep the device out of reach.

DIY electric fly swatter

Craftsmen have already tested methods for constructing analogues of factory fly swatters at home. The videos that you, if you wish, will find on the Internet, tell and show in detail what can be used as a working basis, how to properly insulate the handle, and what the electrical circuit is like.

Radio circuits for domestic use

Summer is a wonderful time and many try to spend this time of the year on summer cottages. And everything would be wonderful if it were not for annoying insects ...

In general, there are many different means of protection against insects - these are various electronic repellers, and chemicals - sprays, but recently the so-called electronic traps. The principle of operation of such a device is extremely simple - a metal mesh with a high voltage applied to it, falling on which insects die from an electric discharge.

Here we will consider such a device.

Diagram of an electronic insect trap

At the very beginning, a small caveat: in the original article (and it was taken from the magazine "Young Technician"), the "bait" for insects is a light source. As such a source, it was proposed to use an LDS-20 fluorescent lamp according to the "without starter" circuit, and it is this circuit that is shown in the figure. But you can do it much easier - apply the most ordinary energy saving lamp and then the circuit will be much simpler.

So, the design of the device

As everyone has already guessed, the lamp attracts insects with its light, arriving on which they fall between two grids that surround the lamp and are under high voltage. In addition, the heat generated by the lamp also attracts insects.

To power the lamp daylight a voltage multiplier is used that rectifies the mains voltage to about 600 volts (no load). The upper arm of the multiplier (capacitor C1, diodes D1, D2) charges capacitor C3, and the lower arm (capacitor C2, diodes D3, D4) charges capacitor C4. The top capacitor is charged with a negative voltage, and the bottom capacitor is charged with a positive voltage. Since the capacitors C3 and C4 are connected in series, the voltage across them adds up and becomes sufficient to ignite the fluorescent lamp, and the current strength allows you to keep it burning. In such a lamp power circuit, both backlight lamps from the monitor and fluorescent lamps with burnt filaments can be used.

As a high-voltage source, everything is also very simple: a high-voltage coil from an automobile ignition system of the type B116 or similar was used here, in this case its high-voltage output is the upper output of the transformer T1 according to the circuit. In general, instead of an ignition coil, you can use a home-made transformer wound on a piece of a 400NN brand ferrite rod 80 mm long and 10 mm in diameter. The primary winding contains 30 turns of PEL-0.6 wire, the secondary - 1500 turns of PEL-0.08 wire, winding in 10 layers with careful insulation between the layers, but, you see, everything is much simpler with a coil!

Here is the schematic itself:

From the rectifier (diode bridge D5 ... D8), a pulsating voltage with a frequency of 50 Hz is supplied to a voltage converter made on a VD1 dinistor, a capacitor C5 and a resistor R2. The load of the converter is the primary winding of the transformer T1.

The voltage converter works as follows. Capacitor C5 is charged through resistor R2 with a pulsating voltage, and as soon as constant pressure on the capacitor reaches a value of approximately 80 volts, then the VD1 dinistor will open and the capacitor C5 will quickly discharge through the primary winding of the transformer T1. Such a converter is called a relaxation generator. In his circuit, the resistance of the resistor R2 is selected in such a way that the current flowing through it will not keep the dinistor open after the capacitor is discharged, therefore the dinistor will close and the process will repeat. The frequency of the converter operation depends on the parameters of the elements R2, C5, as well as on the response voltage of the dinistor VD1, and in this case it is several hundred Hertz. Since the number of turns of the secondary winding of the transformer T1 is many times greater than the primary, then the impulse voltage on it will be much greater, reaching several kilovolts.

Capacitors C1..C4 must have an operating voltage of at least 380 volts, capacitor C5 - at least 750 volts. Instead of diode bridge(D5...D8) you can use diodes such as KD208A, KD212A or similar.

High-voltage grids with a cell with a diameter of approximately 10..20 mm must be placed around the H1 lamp so that they form two cylinders, the distance between these grids should be slightly greater than the distance at which electrical breakdown occurs. For safety, the outer mesh of the trap must be connected to the housing of the ignition coil. The diameter of the inner grid must be sufficient to exclude electrical breakdown between the grid and the H1 lamp.