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Powerful homemade Wi-Fi antenna. Encyclopedia of Technologies and Methods Wifi antenna circuit is more powerful than fa 20

Panel sector antenna FA-20 (18-22 dBi)

I want to present you a description of the design of the FA-20 sector panel antenna, which, despite its simplicity, has proven itself to be high-performance and reliable.

1. Introduction

The original description of the author is located at http://sterr.narod.ru/wifi/fa20.htm. Description from Volodya - http://vbm.lan23.ru/wifi/fa20.html. Much can be found about this design. positive feedback in the network, but it is noted that manufacturing accuracy is of great importance, especially for vibrators and mounting holes in the reflector. Also of great importance is the observance of the distance between the reflector and the vibrators. Be sure to adhere to the specified dimensions, this will maximize the efficiency of the antenna.

2. Construction

The antenna consists of four structural elements: a reflector (1), two types of vibrators (2, 3) and a connecting bus (4), which serves to connect the vibrators:

Reflector

vibrators

The author of the original description, Sterr, recommends using food tin as a material for vibrators, VBM made these elements from double-sided foil textolite.

3. Materials

To assemble the antenna, we need:

One-sided foil textolite (for reflector)
Double-sided foil textolite (for vibrators)
Strip of brass or copper foil (for bus)
Aluminum corner 25×25 mm
Rivets
F connector

4. Manufacturing

First of all, you need to make a “trough” of the reflector. To do this, according to the drawing, we cut out a rectangle of foil textolite 490 × 222 mm for the bottom, mark it (it is best to core from the side of the foil) and drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm for the stands for vibrators, tin them. After that, we make the sides of the appropriate size from an aluminum corner 25 × 25 mm, and fasten them with rivets on the reverse side of the reflector:

Blanks

For accurate marking, it is best to use a caliper.

When attaching the corners with rivets, also fasten the edges of the corners

After assembling the “trough” of the reflector, it can be slightly strengthened by gluing the corners on the reverse side with mounting tape, and gluing the vertical seams with two-component epoxy glue:

Structural reinforcement

Volodya came up with an original technology for manufacturing vibrators from fiberglass laminated on both sides. Advantage this method in that two absolutely identical vibrators are obtained from one workpiece.

First, a rectangular blank of the desired size is cut out of textolite:

Preparation for the manufacture of vibrators

Cut out rectangles with metal scissors
We delaminate fiberglass, we try to delaminate halves of the same thickness
We make cuts along the red lines of the rectangles with 2 ordinary household scissors
We take a broken blade of a hacksaw for metal and cut along the green lines of the rectangles 2
With fine sandpaper, carefully clean the ends of the resulting vibrators

Ready vibrators

As a result, we get two vibrators of identical sizes. Care must be taken to ensure that the non-foil side of the vibrator is smooth, this may require removing a layer of fiberglass. After that, we drill and tin holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm for the racks.

After manufacturing the vibrators, it is necessary to make a tire (4) from brass or copper foil, with the help of which we will later connect the “tails” of the vibrators.

All elements of the future antenna are ready, you can start assembling. To do this, you need to find a remote gasket under the vibrator. Select its thickness so that the total thickness of the textolite and the gasket gives a distance of 6 mm between the reflector and the vibrator foil.

To install vibrators, it is best to use a smooth thick copper wire with a diameter of about 2 mm. We cut it into small pieces, solder them in the holes of the “trough”. Then, placing a spacer next to the stand, solder one edge of the vibrator, then similarly - the other, after moving the spacer. We bite off the extra parts of the racks. When installing, narrow vibrators are placed at the edges, wider ones in the center.

Antenna assembly

After installing the vibrators, we fix the connector on the “trough” and connect the “tails” of the vibrators with the help of a tire, carefully soldering them, then solder the central vein of the connector to the tire.

5. Installation

The easiest way to attach the antenna to the bar is to drill holes in the "trough" between the central vibrators, and screw it on with screws or screws. If you plan to mount the antenna on a pipe, it is better to rivet an aluminum corner about 30 cm long to the antenna on the back of the reflector, then attach the corner to the mast using clamps or ties.

With the kind permission of Vladimir (VBM), we reprint his description of the design of the FA-20 sector panel antenna, which, despite its simplicity, has proven itself to be high-performance and reliable.

1. Introduction

The original description of the author is located at http://sterr.narod.ru/wifi/fa20.htm. Description from Volodya - http://vbm.lan23.ru/wifi/fa20.html. You can find a lot of positive feedback about this design on the net, but it is noted that manufacturing accuracy is very important, especially for vibrators and mounting holes in the reflector. Also of great importance is the observance of the distance between the reflector and the vibrators. Be sure to adhere to the specified dimensions, this will maximize the efficiency of the antenna.

2. Construction

The antenna consists of four structural elements: a reflector (1), two types of vibrators (2, 3) and a connecting bus (4), which serves to connect the vibrators:

3. Materials

To assemble the antenna, we need:

One-sided foil textolite (for reflector)
Double-sided foil textolite (for vibrators)
Strip of brass or copper foil (for bus)
Aluminum corner 25×25 mm
Rivets
F connector

4. Manufacturing

First of all, you need to make a "trough" of the reflector. To do this, according to the drawing, we cut out a rectangle of foil textolite 490 × 222 mm for the bottom, mark it (it is best to core from the side of the foil) and drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm for the stands for vibrators, tin them. After that, we make the sides of the appropriate size from an aluminum corner 25 × 25 mm, and fasten them with rivets on the reverse side of the reflector:

Blanks

For accurate marking, it is best to use a caliper.

When attaching the corners with rivets, also fasten the edges of the corners

Structural reinforcement

Volodya came up with an original technology for manufacturing vibrators from fiberglass laminated on both sides. The advantage of this method is that two absolutely identical vibrators are obtained from one workpiece.

First, a rectangular blank of the desired size is cut out of textolite:

Preparation for the manufacture of vibrators

Cut out rectangles with metal scissors
We delaminate fiberglass, we try to delaminate halves of the same thickness
We make cuts along the red lines of the rectangles with 2 ordinary household scissors
We take a broken blade of a hacksaw for metal and cut along the green lines of the rectangles 2
With fine sandpaper, carefully clean the ends of the resulting vibrators

Ready vibrators

After manufacturing the vibrators, it is necessary to make a tire (4) from brass or copper foil, with the help of which we will later connect the “tails” of the vibrators.

To install vibrators, it is best to use a smooth thick copper wire with a diameter of about 2 mm. We cut it into small pieces, solder them in the holes of the "trough". Then, placing a spacer next to the stand, solder one edge of the vibrator, then similarly - the other, after moving the spacer. We bite off the extra parts of the racks. When installing, narrow vibrators are placed at the edges, wider ones in the center.

Antenna assembly

5. Installation

Thanks to the forum members for the information provided.

1. PASTE-BALM FOR HEALTH OF TEETH AND GUM WITH YOUR HANDS. 2. All about female hormones. 3. 5 reasons to drink lemon water on an empty stomach in the morning: 4. Top 8 healthiest fruits. 5. The true power of dandelion. 6. LOSE WEIGHT WITH FLAX SEEDS. 7. Hair grows like crazy from this mask! 8. NECK AND DECOLLE: 9. 14 ways to quickly relieve stress. 10. The benefits of black clay. 11. Anti-stress balm. 12. FROM BACK PAIN. #beautyhealth================================================= ===== PASTE-BALM FOR HEALTH OF TEETH AND GUM WITH YOUR HANDS. The paste is intended for brushing teeth and treating gums. Consists entirely of natural ingredients. Suitable for children, you can swallow without fear for your health. It has a pronounced smell of propolis and cloves, pleasant to the taste. The paste is not at all abrasive, made on the basis of pure chalk. It does not contain soda, which many manufacturers add to pastes. Baking soda damages tooth enamel, although it is a whitening ingredient. Composition: base - calcium carbonate (pure chalk) Propolis solution. Medical tests have shown that propolis reduces the amount of enzymes that help bacteria “stick” to the surface of the tooth by 70%. Scientists have found in propolis almost a hundred constituent parts and two substances that provide protection to the teeth. Propolis is one of the best remedies for the treatment of gum disease. Cedar oleoresin and cedar oil. They have an anti-inflammatory and healing effect on the gums. Gum has absorbable, healing and antiseptic properties. Scientists have proven that cedar resin has an antitumor effect. Strengthens gums. Clove tincture. Has a strong healing effect. (used in dental offices when "medicine" is put in) Med. Enhances absorption of nutrients, imparts a slightly sweet taste (instead of glycerin, which is used in industrial toothpastes). If the teeth are damaged, does not cause pain from hit due to the small amount. Natural essential oil of anise and mint. The composition can be varied - something to add, and something to remove. The proportions are approximately the following: 50 g of chalk + 1 tsp each of cedar oil and resin solution, 1 tablespoon of propolis and clove tinctures. If something is missing, then you can do without it. When cooking, everyone will get their own recipe, their own taste and their own consistency (but it’s better, of course, to make the paste a paste))) Use as toothpaste: Paste-balm has the consistency of a paste, so you can easily “scoop up” a small amount with a wet brush . Over time, you will determine the amount you need. Attention! Pasta DOES NOT FOAM! Foaming substances that are part of industrial pastes harm the teeth. You don't need foam to clean your teeth. Cleaning occurs at the expense of chalk, which is part of the paste and your toothbrush, the rest of the substances heal, have a healing effect. A liquid fraction may form on the surface of the paste - this is a solution of cloves, feel free to use it as a gum balm. Use of the balm for medicinal purposes: Apply the balm with rubbing movements on the teeth and gums with clean fingers. If you suffer from periodontitis, you need to do a daily gum massage with balm, thumb and forefinger from the gums up along the tooth. After applying the balm, leave the balm for 5 minutes, then rinse by rinsing your mouth. The balm can also be swallowed, since all components are also used orally for treatment, but it should be remembered that the balm takes microbes from the oral cavity, so it is better to spit it out. If you suffer from gum disease, you can make an intensive treatment balm (to massage at night, leaving the balm on the gums). The composition of the balm: a solution of cedar resin, cedar oil, beeswax. The balm has the consistency of a liquid cream, bitter cedar taste, relieves pain and pulling sensations from the gums during the first minute. It has a colossal healing effect (your gums have already been cured) TIP: when brushing your teeth, it is better not to take a lot of paste at once, but to take a few times a little for the outer surface of the teeth, chewing surface, etc. Author: Anastasia Aryamnova

and a simple user who has mastered the computer on his own, to the best of his needs and capabilities. Thus, everything described in the article is not at all difficult and is available for use by any PC user.

It all started with the fact that my brother and I wanted to connect our computers to a local network in order to organize general access to the Internet, play games over the network, exchange files, chat in a network chat, etc. Actually, such a desire arises sooner or later for any computer owner, there is nothing new and surprising here, for example, if your friend is connected to a wired LAN with unlimited Internet, and you don’t have any local network, no Internet The problem was that the distance between our houses is 2.5 km. You can’t stretch the wire for such a distance, so at first the solution of this problem seemed unrealistic, I’ll immediately make a reservation that we didn’t have the opportunity to spend large amounts of money on this venture. Then after studying all available information on our topic, after reading the forums, we decided to organize a direct modem connection between our computers, using two modems and a telephone line, especially since we didn’t have to buy anything for this. Decided and organized. For some time, a direct modem connection suited us and seemed like the ultimate dream, despite the meager connection speed, frequent disconnections, a busy telephone line and other shortcomings. But with the introduction of per-minute payment for the phone, such a connection hit our finances hard and had to be abandoned. It was necessary to look for an alternative, only then we had little idea what it was. Of course, they heard about Wi-Fi, but they considered this option technically complex and expensive for such a distance. It took some time to study the literature and special sites on Wi-Fi, and some sites were encouraging, reporting that communication at such a distance is possible with a small investment, others wrote that if possible, then only with expensive equipment. We were ready to donate 100-150 USD for this undertaking. but not a few thousand.

Things got off the ground after we found out that there are two options for building a Wi-Fi Network:

Infrastructure Wi-Fi when computers are connected to a radio network using an access point (Access Point WiFi) that manages the network and to which client PCs connect.

Ad-hoc Wi-Fi or computer-to-computer, when there is no special network control device (access point), and all devices on the network are equal. Ad-hoc connection does not require a special device - it is enough to have two or more machines with Wi-Fi module, allows you to organize the connection in wireless network several PCs, laptops, PDAs with a minimum of costs.

The first option did not suit us. buying an access point did not fit into the allocated budget, although it technically seemed more feasible.

The second option suited us better, because. WiFi adapters worth 20 euro fit into the allocated amount.

And two were bought network adapter Wi-Fi standard in the form of PCI cards, but what to do next, we knew only approximately. We bought D-link cards: DWL G520+ and DWL 520+. I must say right away that A little later we tried to use the DWL G510, they are perfect for the tasks set, they are available in stores and cost only 25 USD. Now you can buy them or any similar solution from other manufacturers.

Don't be afraid of what's in technical specifications devices it is written: range indoors: up to 100 m, outdoors: up to 400 m. This is based on the use of standard antennas that come with a Wi-Fi card, but we will use other antennas that will amplify the signal and thereby increase radius of action.

The choice of antennas is not an easy task. In order to transmit and receive a signal over such a distance, external antennas several times more powerful than the standard ones that come with the kit. The more powerful the antennas, the greater the bandwidth of your network. The second prerequisite: there must be a direct line of sight between the antennas !!! , without this, nothing will work out, even not very dense foliage on the trees will interfere.

First you need to decide: will you make antennas yourself or buy finished products.

The first option is for those who are at least a little familiar with a soldering iron and want to save 100-140 USD. The second option, I think, will also have supporters, and quite a few.

We naturally chose the first option.

I will not dwell on branded antennas, there is enough information on the network, keywords for search: 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi antenna, there you will also see many links to homemade Wi-Fi antenna circuits.

Of all the options homemade antennas I will focus on the simplest and at first glance even ridiculous option. Let's make an antenna from an empty coffee can. Don't believe? At first I didn’t believe either, I didn’t believe that this product would work at all and work no worse than antennas for 50-70 USD.

On such antennas, our network has earned, although not at the highest possible speed. At a distance of 1 km on such antennas, the maximum possible speed was obtained with this connection option. There is a manufacturing scheme, there is also a formula for calculating the required dimensions.

I will briefly describe the manufacturing process using the example of an empty Nescafe can with a diameter of 10.5 mm. You will need: an empty jar, a socket for connecting a cable (see the figure), a piece of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm and a length of 30 mm, a soldering iron, hands and a head :-). All specified dimensions must be observed with maximum accuracy, the quality of the antenna and, consequently, the quality of communication in your network depends on it.

On the side wall of the jar, we drill a hole with a diameter of 9 mm, its center should be at a distance of 43.5 mm from the bottom.

We insert connector 1 into the hole, having previously soldered a copper wire waveguide to it. Fix it with a nut. I recommend soldering around the connector for better contact and reliability.

The length of the waveguide should be 3.07 mm, measured from the side of the can. The antenna is ready. Inside the jar can be varnished or greased to slow down corrosion. We close the jar with a plastic lid, it does not interfere, because. completely transparent to waves at a frequency of 2.4 GHz.

If someone's network does not work on "can" antennas, or get insufficient speed, I recommend making more powerful antennas:

The next step is to connect our antenna to the board. Here I will immediately make a reservation: how many citizens, so many opinions. Many Wi-Fi sites recommend (and not without reason) using a high-frequency cable for 2.4 GHz frequencies, special connectors and adapters. I could not find such a cable and connectors in my provincial town, besides, their use would significantly increase the cost of our connection. Based on the experience of other Wi-Fi users, we tried to use more accessible materials. Best a budget option: use coaxial cable for a local network (outwardly, it almost does not differ from a television one), its impedance is 50 ohms, in extreme cases, you can also use tv cable with a resistance of 75 ohms, although the signal loss will be much greater. We have just such a cable (skyflex RG6U), because another just could not be found. It has been experimentally established that such a cable is suitable when the distance from the card to the antenna is no more than 20-25 m. In most cases, this is enough. Mounts standard TV connectors on the ends of the cable, see fig.

We connect one end without problems to our antenna. The second must be connected to the connector on the board. But here we are faced with the following problem: the connector on the Wi-Fi board does not match the TV connector we use. You need a special connector: "daddy" RP-SMA or an adapter.

I didn’t find the necessary plug or adapter for sale, maybe someone will be lucky to find a ready-made one, but we had to do everything ourselves again.

For the manufacture of an adapter, you can use the connector removed from the native antenna, which of course entails a loss of warranty :-). To do this, you need to remove or cut off the plastic cap above the bend on the native antenna. Under it we will find a thin RF cable to which our coaxial cable will need to be soldered.

We came up with another way to attach the cable to the Wi-Fi connector of the board:

On the connector on the board, directly onto the thread, I wind the foil or thin wire until the thickness approximately coincides with the inner diameter of the television connector 2.

This connector, the side of which it is usually screwed onto the cable, we will screw onto the card connector with wound wire.

I do the inner core like this: the mother connector is broken out of the native antenna or from any computer connector,

I put on the "dad" pin inside the card slot, having previously soldered a piece of copper wire 1-2 cm long to it,

I isolate the inner core with several turns of electrical tape.

We do all this before screwing on the TV connector 2. When fully screwed on, this is what happens:

Then connect the TV cable through adapter 3.

After all the preparations described above, we put Wi-Fi boards into the PCI slot on both computers, install the drivers that come with the kit. We install the antennas so that there is a direct line of sight between them, I repeat once again that at long distances this is a prerequisite,

antennas should have the same polarization, preferably vertical (the waveguides in our can antennas should be located strictly vertically, on both sides). In our case, one antenna is installed on the roof, the other on the balcony of the 8th floor. Cable length 15 and 20 m.

This is where we finished with the iron part, let's move on to the software part, setting up our network ...

For craft lovers Panel sector antenna FA-20 (18-22 dBi)

With the kind permission of Vladimir (VBM), we are reprinting his description of the design of the FA-20 sector panel antenna, which, despite its simplicity, has proven itself to be high-performance and reliable. 1. Introduction

2. Construction

The antenna consists of four structural elements: a reflector (1), two types of vibrators (2, 3) and a connecting bus (4), which serves to connect the vibrators:

the writer of the original description, Sterr, recommends using food tin as a material for vibrators, VBM made these elements from double-sided foil textolite.

3. Materials

To assemble the antenna, we need:

One-sided foil textolite (for reflector)
Double-sided foil textolite (for vibrators)
Strip of brass or copper foil (for bus)
Aluminum corner 25×25 mm
Rivets
F connector

4. Manufacturing

The trim map is extremely necessary so as not to confuse the elements and solder everything correctly.

Farther. We take the tube that we want to use as the basis for the boom and make a notch on it with the edge of a triangular file at a distance of approximately 5mm from the beginning of the boom. Next, using the layout map, you need to mark out the entire boom using a caliper. If possible, both the layout of the boom and the trimming of elements should be done as accurately as possible. The operation of the entire antenna depends on this.

To see in a large window, just click on the picture with the mouse.

After everything has been done, we should get into such a boom. We carefully clean the places of notches and solder under flux for soldering chrome and aluminum products.

Then we take one director at a time, find the middle and solder it to the boom. Here, to ensure the mechanical strength of tin, there is no need to regret! The only requirement is that all directors, the vibrator and the reflector should be STRICTLY perpendicular to the boom and go in one line without distortion relative to each other. As a result, you should get something like the following.

To see in a large window, just click on the picture with the mouse.

All directors, vibrator and reflector must be well thawed and clearly fixed in the recesses on the boom.

We proceed to the manufacture of the U-elbow.

We take a coaxial cable in fluoroplastic insulation and cut off 60mm from it. Then from both ends we cut off the outer insulation together with the braid to a length of 8mm, only the outer insulation to a length of 10mm and immediately solder the braid to avoid fraying. For a length of 6 mm, we remove the inner insulation from both ends and expose the inner conductor, which (that one) is also soldered. Soldering should be done ONLY in rosin without using any fluxes. We solder the central conductors to the ends of the vibrator, and the braid to the boom on a pre-cleaned and tinned place. The result should be something like this:

To see in a large window, just click on the picture with the mouse.

When sealing the incoming cable, it must be taken into account that the braid must also be soldered to the boom, and the central conductor to one of the ends of the vibrator, right to the place where the end of the U elbow is soldered. The program for calculating the antennas is attached. Works under DOS.

This article is based on personal experience building WiFi networks over a long distance. In our case, the goal was to stretch from home unlimited Internet to work. After reading various sources and a bunch of forums, it was decided to build this link and with full confidence we set to work. I will also say that a distance of 5 km, by the standards of members of the forum, is not a long distance, but as a maximum, an average one.
In our case, the "pioneer" WiFi access point from the manufacturer D-link - DWL 2100AP was taken as a basis. On our site you can get advice, and in the Download section you can find useful programs for this point. For a long time and painfully, the decision was made - which antenna to choose after all, and finally, thanks to the members of the forum, the choice fell on a successful antenna model in the 2.4 GHz band - FA20. Easy to manufacture and efficient in work, it “forgave” us some flaws in its manufacture.
What we needed:

Two dots d-link access DWL 2100AP

Ethernet cable 8-wire 150 meters

Antenna cable RG 6U - 5 meters (with a margin)

One-sided textolite 1.5 mm thick, approximately 1 m ^ 2 in size

Sealed box -2pcs

2 mm copper wire, copper tube D 5-6mm, copper strip

Various tools: caliper, soldering iron, jigsaw, drill…

After choosing the antenna, we thought about the method of its manufacture. It was decided to make a WiFi antenna from textolite, but using our own technology. Somewhere in the forums it was said about the method of splitting double-sided PCB, about cutting out from foil, but we decided to go our own way, and I hope that our experience will be useful to someone. The antenna pattern can be downloaded here -.
Using a jigsaw, vibrators were cut out, cuts were made with a clerical knife in pre-marked places.

Using a knife and tweezers, carefully remove the copper layer from the textolite. Cut out the reflector and sides. Tip: consider the thickness of the cut line when marking the textolite, and also do not forget to process the edges of the textolite with a small file. Two copper strips were cut from a 1mm thick copper plate.

To connect the vibrators with the reflector, we used copper wire. To withstand a distance of 6 mm, it is necessary to find or make a gasket with a thickness of 4.5 mm, taking into account the textolite. A stripped RG-6U cable is tightly inserted into a piece of copper tube (the antenna of any radio receiver). From the reverse side, we insert our tube with a cable into a pre-drilled hole in the reflector and solder it to the copper layer of the reflector, and the central core of the cable to the copper strip. Since the standard antenna is no longer useful to us, we use it to make a connector for the second end of the cable.

We approached the mounting of the antenna with the mast seriously. We needed to easily rotate the antenna in any plane, this is necessary for fine tuning. It was decided to mount the antenna on a spherical one from the car, which in turn is mounted on a 2 m high iron angle mast. An example of attaching a ball to the antenna in the photo.