home > Internet > Make a very powerful shocker with your own hands. Powerful do-it-yourself stun gun

Make a very powerful shocker with your own hands. Powerful do-it-yourself stun gun

Ensuring human safety plays an important role, it is for this reason that many choose various means of protection. Pneumatic or, for example, firearms are not always available, and also unsafe. The stun gun belongs to the means of self-defense for which a license is not required. For this reason, this type of protection has been quite popular for many years.

The choice of such devices is now quite wide, but you can make a stun gun with your own hands. The diagram below will help you quickly and easily understand everything. A homemade stun gun does not pose any danger to others and can only be used for self-defense. In the article we will talk about what this device is, how it works. In addition, we will tell you how to do what features of its use.

Types of stun guns

Modern factory stun guns come in various types. Outwardly, they may different sizes, differ in power and even have a body in the form of items such as a flashlight, pen, gun, lipstick, etc. The device can be powered by batteries or a rechargeable battery. Batteries are installed in less than powerful models. Sparking in a stun gun can be low or high frequency. Devices with a frequency of 50-80 Hz cause pain in the first second, but do not cause severe harm. As a rule, they can only scare. Devices with a frequency of more than 100 Hz allow you to temporarily neutralize the attacker. Stun guns differ from each other in that low-frequency ones emit a crackle, high-frequency ones buzz. You can also independently determine which stun gun is in front of you by experience: more powerful devices can set fire to paper.

Such devices are used for self-defense in order to neutralize the attacker by applying an electric discharge. The stun gun creates a strong pain effect and acts on the muscles, paralyzing the attacker on certain time. Use this device allowed only to persons who have reached the age of majority. To purchase a stun gun in a specialized store or to make it yourself - everyone decides individually. Buying a ready-made device is quite expensive, but simple. There is an alternative option - try to make a stun gun with your own hands. The scheme of such a device clearly shows what we will have to face.

The choice of such devices is very large. They differ not only in appearance and power, as well as cost. The circuit of the simplest stun gun does not require high knowledge in the field of electronics, the necessary parts are also available for purchase. The manufacture of such a means for self-defense cannot be called very simple, moreover, the device must meet a number of requirements. Wiring diagram stun gun must be thought out so that the device is:

compact, inconspicuous, not causing inconvenience when moving;
powerful, able to neutralize the attacker and give you a few seconds to respond;
with the possibility of recharging, since no one needs a disposable tool.

If you decide to make a stun gun yourself, remember that a device of simple design should not consume a lot of energy. A well-made device, taking into account all the necessary recommendations, will properly serve long time and provide reliable protection against intruders.

What do you need for self-manufacturing stun gun:

Soldering iron for alloying parts.
Converter.
ferrite rod.
Capacitor.
Discharger.
Wire.
Transformer.
Epoxy resin.
Insulating tape.

Principle of operation

What is the principle of operation of a stun gun? The circuit shown in the article assumes the following: the ignition capacitor acts on the transformer, resulting in a spark that breaks through several centimeters of air. The capacitor at this moment directly hits with all its energy. The use of a conductive channel makes it possible to charge without large losses, while maintaining not only the power of the device, but also convenient dimensions. How to make a stun gun at home? Let's get to work.

The transformer is the main part of the device, one of the most difficult to manufacture. To work, you will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. An enameled wire (0.01 mm) will need to be wound on it. You need to wind until there is about 1.5 mm of space left in the core. An excellent result will be obtained if you wind it with electrical tape. The result will be 5-6 layers.

It should be noted that it is quite difficult for non-professionals to make a stun gun with their own hands. The circuit may seem quite simple, but during manufacturing there are many details that must be taken into account. This is especially true for isolation. The wound wire must be insulated with one layer of electrical tape, and then another 6 turns should be made, but already with a denser wire with a diameter of about 0.8 mm. When making the third turn, you will need to stop and twist, after that you can continue and add 3 more turns. To ensure the strength of the structure, you can use superglue. At the end of the work, the cups need to be glued or wrapped with electrical tape again. Contacts should not be in contact with the environment, otherwise we risk inflicting electric shock on ourselves instead of defense.

Further, for work you will need a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 5 cm, made of polypropylene. In a stun gun, this part will be a sectional frame. To do this, use a drill to fix the bolt, which is suitable for the diameter of the tube, and carefully groove the grooves with an emery cloth. It is important not to damage the pipe during operation and, as a result, to obtain sections measuring 2 by 2 mm. After that, with a clerical knife, you need to make an incision up to 3 mm wide along the frame without damaging the pipe.

Second phase

So, we continue to consider how to make a stun gun with your own hands. For subsequent work, you will need a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. It must be wound on all sections of the frame, while it should not go beyond. Start the wire for more convenient operation it is desirable to solder or fix it well with glue, leave it free at the end.

A ferrite rod with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 50 mm must be processed using an emery wheel. The result should be a round part. The ferrite rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and made on top of 20 turns. You need to use the same wire as for the first transformer, that is, 0.8 mm. Be sure to wind in the same direction, after which you need to insulate the wire in several layers.

The main part for a homemade stun gun

The prepared rod must be inserted inside the frame, from the side where the HV winding ends, and the two windings are connected together. After that, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. It only needs to be melted, but not heated to a high temperature. It is necessary to fill in paraffin with a margin, because after hardening it will settle a little. The excess part will be easier to cut off. Now we have the main part that will allow us to make a stun gun with our own hands. The diagram clearly shows the location of the main elements.

Charging the device

The igniting conder is charged through the bridge, and the combat conder is charged through additional diodes. Thanks to this, one chain is not created. Any transistor can be used, there are no special requirements for the resistor either. The capacitor provides inrush current limitation and serves to protect the converter. If the stun gun assembly scheme provides for the installation of a powerful transistor, then the capacitor can be omitted.

Installed batteries size AA in the amount of 6 pieces. Transistors are mounted on a radiator. It is desirable that it has insulating gaskets. We install all the prepared parts. Most importantly, you need to fix the HV-pins, the distance between which should be more than 15 mm. AT otherwise the stun gun has every chance of quickly burning out.

Charge frequency

Whether to use a charger for a stun gun or not depends on the desire of the owner. Batteries are the best for power. The stun gun does not require a specific setting, it should immediately work. If these batteries are used, the discharge frequency should be close to 35 Hertz. If this figure is lower, the transformer may be incorrectly or poorly wound, or other transistors should be selected. Empirically, you need to select the frequency of discharges. This is done through divorce. You need to test the discharge frequency for 5 seconds. The distance should not be the maximum possible, otherwise at one fine moment the stun gun may burn out. Note that air breakdown is affected by pressure, humidity and other external conditions.

Frame

What do you need for a homemade stun gun? Thick cardboard is suitable as the body of the device, on which you can immediately draw the location of all the parts, and then proceed with their installation and fastening. It is best to bend the material with pliers. Glue is applied to the outside. It is important to ensure the tightness of the seam. It is better to place the parts inside the case first, and then start fixing them one by one.

Determine a place to charge the battery and the start button. It is desirable to treat the stun gun with heat shrink, this will help to drown some elements a little inside and provide a very good protection from the external environment. After using heat shrink, you need to check the operation of the stun gun again. Aluminum rivets should be used as protective electrodes.

The final stage of production

After checking the operation of the stun gun and the tightness of the entire system, you can proceed to pour the device with epoxy resin. After that, you need to wait 6-7 hours. At this stage, you can cut off the extra parts, give a convenient shape, until the epoxy is very hard. You can process the device with sandpaper and then varnish the finished case. The instruction manual for the stun gun does not require special explanation. This device is used for self-defense purposes, does not cause much harm to health and does not need a license.

Power of the stun gun

If the spark between the contacts of the device is small and raises doubts about the effectiveness, then you can check it. stun gun? For this purpose, it is sufficient to use a conventional mains fuse, which must be placed between the contacts, without creating a direct interaction between them. If the fuse blows, it will indicate that the output current is already over 250mA. As a result of competent work, a compact and reliable means of protection with the necessary power is obtained.

Shooting stun gun

Let's take a closer look at what such a device looks like. more difficult to implement. For this reason, many prefer the conventional model of the device. This device works as follows: a special unit is installed in it, which is directly connected to the source of electricity by high-voltage wires; at the moment when the block hits the target, voltage is applied to the electrodes, and an electric shock occurs. The design itself is difficult to manufacture. To work, you will need a firing system and special wires. The disadvantages of such a stun gun should also include the fact that the device must be recharged after use. If there are several attackers, some difficulties may arise, and the stun gun will not provide adequate protection.

Safety when using a stun gun

It is important to remember that the device should only be used for its intended purpose and in case of danger. A stun gun is not fatal. But if a person suffers from heart disease, he can die. An electric shock to the chest area is dangerous even for a healthy person. It is safe and effective to use the device in the area of the abdominal muscles, where they are responsible for the coordination of movement. Such an application will disable the intruder for some time.

Improper use of the stun gun can harm the wearer. For example, in wet weather, you can get the Taser yourself. It is forbidden to use it in water, near an open fire, and also near explosive objects. The thickness of the attacker's clothes does not affect the quality of the device. It is important to observe the time of exposure to a stun gun on a person. To lose orientation and cause pain, it is enough to use the device for 1-2 seconds. Prolonged use is unacceptable, as it can lead to fatal electric shock. The effect of using the device lasts an average of 20 minutes. At the same time, contact with the following areas should be avoided:

Chest area. The heart can fail, and the user is charged with exceeding the necessary self-defense, resulting in death.
Solar plexus. The person may suffocate.
Head. Possible cerebral hemorrhage.

There are a lot of ways to create a stun gun at home, and we have considered only one of them. In each case, certain features and subtleties must be taken into account so as not to spoil the details and not redo the work several times. The material for the manufacture of the stun gun and the result of the efforts depend on the skill and experience of the specialist. You can buy the necessary parts or get them from other unnecessary equipment. Additionally, the device can be equipped with a flashlight for convenience. It already depends on personal wishes.

There are a large number of different models of stun guns on the market, which also differ in power from each other. For the purpose of self-defense, it is allowed to use a stun gun up to 3 W, and only after reaching the age of majority. Devices with higher power are only allowed for special services. Now you know how to make a stun gun at home. We hope that our article will be useful and help you make a high-quality self-defense tool with your own hands that will fully meet your expectations and last a long time.

Among the means of self-defense, electroshock devices (EShU) are not in last place, especially in terms of the strength of the psychological impact on intruders. However, the cost is also considerable, which encourages radio amateurs to create a stun gun with their own hands of their counterparts.

Without claiming to be super-original and super-new ideas, I propose my development, which can be repeated by anyone who at least once in their life has dealt with transformer winding and installation the simplest devices type of a detector radio receiver with an amplifier on one or two transistors.

The basis of the stun gun I offer with my own hands is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts constant pressure from power supply type galvanic battery"Krona" ("Korund", 6PLF22) or "Nika" battery into an increased variable, with a typical multiplier U. A very important element of the EShU is a self-made transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic circuit for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be chipped off, for example, from the magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, having previously filed the edge of the abrasive stone around the circumference. But the transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television TVS. True, in this case, it will be necessary to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic circuit.

The tube-base of the frame for placing transformer windings on it is a 50-mm segment of a plastic case from an already used felt-tip pen, the inner diameter of which corresponds to the above-mentioned ferrite rod. Cheeks measuring 40x40 mm are cut from a 3 mm sheet of vinyl plastic or plexiglass. They are firmly connected to the tube-piece of the felt-tip pen body, having previously lubricated the seats with dichloroethane.

For transformer windings it is used in this case copper wire in high-strength enamel insulation based on Viniflex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. In winding 2, they are almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.

As an interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplastic) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, the use of 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper is quite acceptable. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove it from 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the old installation fittings for lamps daylight, which has long developed, it would seem, its resource, and cut exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.

After every three “wire” layers in the author’s version, with a wide brush, the resulting winding was certainly “smeared” with epoxy glue, slightly diluted with acetone (so that the “epoxy” was not very viscous) and condenser-paper insulation was laid in 2 layers. Further, without waiting for curing, winding continued.

To avoid wire breakage due to uneven frame rotation during winding, PEV2-0.15 was passed through the ring. The latter hung on a spring made of steel wire with a diameter of 0.2 - 0.3 mm, somewhat pulling the wire upwards. Between the high-voltage and the rest of the windings, anti-breakdown protection was installed - 6 layers of the same capacitor paper with "epoxy".

The ends of the windings are soldered to the pins passed through the holes in the cheeks. However, conclusions can be drawn without breaking the winding wires, from the same PEV2, folding them 2, 4, 8 times (depending on the diameter of the wire) and twisting them.

The finished transformer is wrapped with one layer of fiberglass and filled with epoxy resin. During installation, the winding leads are pressed against the cheeks and laid with the maximum separation of the ends from each other (especially for the high-voltage winding) in the corresponding compartment of the housing. As a result, even with a 10-minute operation (and a longer continuous use of a protective stun gun with your own hands is not required), breakdowns at the transformer are excluded.

In the original design, the EShU generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installation on small plate radiators made it possible to reduce the weight and dimensions of the entire device. The use of well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier also contributed to this. As a result, it was possible to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and spark gap pins) into a plastic housing like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the protective EShU in the collection is about 300 g.

In the case between the transformer and the multiplier, as well as at the electrodes on the soldering side, partitions made of sufficiently strong plastic are necessary - as a measure to strengthen the structure as a whole and a precaution to avoid a spark jump from one mounting radio element to another, and also as a means of protecting the transformer itself from breakdowns. Brass mustaches are attached from the outer part under the electrodes to reduce the distance between the electrodes, which facilitates the formation of a protective discharge.

A protective spark is also formed without a "mustache": between the tips of the pins - the working bodies, but this increases the risk of breakdown of the transformer, "flashing" the installation inside the case.

In fact, the idea of "mustache" is borrowed from the "proprietary" models and developments. Taken, as they say, into service and such technical solution, as the use of a switch is necessarily of a slide type: in order to avoid self-activation when the electroshock protective equipment rests, say, in the breast or side pocket of its owner.

It is not out of place, I think, to warn radio amateurs about the need for careful handling of the protective EShU both during the design and adjustment period, and when walking with a ready-made stun gun with their own hands. Remember that it is directed against a bully, a criminal. Do not exceed the limits of necessary self-defense!

Electroshock devices are one of the best ways for self defense.

Today in free sale can be found for civilians with a power of no more than 3 watts. The Civil Code is harsh, ESU increased power available only to organ workers, and for mere mortals the power is limited to 3 watts.

Definitely, regular 3 watts is clearly not enough for real defense, so you often have to design electroshock devices with your own hands at home.
In fact, the design of a home-made EShU is quite simple; on a voltage multiplier, you can implement enough powerful circuits with minimal cost. The model in question provides an output power of up to 70 watts, which is 13 times more than the power of an industrial stun gun.
The design consists of a high-voltage inverter and a voltage multiplier.

The inverter is made according to a simple multivibrator circuit on two field keys. The choice of field effect transistors is quite large. You can use keys from the IRFZ44, IRFZ48, IRF3205, IRL3705 series and any other similar ones.

The transformer is wound on a W-shaped ferrite core. Such a core can be found in low-power Chinese ETs, as well as in domestic TVs.

All windings from the frame must be removed and new ones wound. The primary winding is wound with a 1 mm wire and consists of 2x5 turns. Next, you need to isolate the winding with 10 layers of transparent adhesive tape or second-layer tape and wind the step-up winding.
This winding is wound with a wire of 0.07-0.1 mm and consists of 800-1000 turns. The winding is wound in layers, each layer consists of evenly wound 80 turns. After winding, we assemble the transformer, it is not necessary to fill it with resin.
The voltage multiplier uses high-voltage capacitors for 5 kV 2200 pF - can be found in domestic TVs. Capacitors can also be taken at 3 kV, but the danger of their breakdown is great.

There are many ways to feel confident in a dark alleyway or on narrow unlit streets, but most of them are either illegal or require a large number time. Not everyone can easily spend 20-30 thousand rubles on a traumatic weapon, and even spend a couple of months on training and obtaining a license. The same applies to martial arts - several years of practicing techniques in the hall does not guarantee protection, and it is impossible to learn how to fight in a month.

One of the best options for protecting yourself and loved ones from intruders is a stun gun. It does not require a license to carry and is not subject to registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs, it easily fits in a pocket or handbag. Any adult citizen of Russia can buy it, but not everyone can afford it. We will look at one of the many ways to assemble a simple and powerful stun gun with our own hands, with diagrams and pictures illustrating the creation process.

Before you start

Homemade stun guns are actually prohibited, since only Russian-made devices that have a license are allowed for use on the territory of the Russian Federation. The mere fact of owning such a product may attract the interest of law enforcement agencies.

What is a stun gun

A typical representative of an electrical device for self-defense consists of five components: a battery, a voltage converter, a capacitor, a spark gap and a transformer. The mechanism of operation is as follows: the capacitor with some periodicity discharges the accumulated charge to the transformer, at the output of which a discharge occurs - the same spark. The problem with this design is this transformer, which is created in the factory from special materials according to a secret scheme that cannot be found on the Internet.

Therefore, the circuit will be somewhat different - based on a pair of ignition and combat capacitors. The gist is this:

By pressing the button, the ignition capacitor acts in the same way as in original scheme- is discharged to the transformer, and that - gives a spark. This spark is an ionized layer of air, with much less resistance than ordinary air.

at the moment of the appearance of a spark, the combat capacitor is triggered, which beats with all the accumulated power through this channel with virtually no loss.

As a result, with a lower total power of the product and savings on the transformer, the same, if not meaner, stun gun is obtained, while one and a half times less.

How to make the simplest stun gun at home: where to start

Manufacturing begins with the most difficult - the transformer. The reason for this is the complexity of winding it, so if the assembler cannot bear it and chooses an easier way to obtain a self-defense device (purchase it), then no effort will be spent on manufacturing the remaining parts.

The basis will be a B22 magnetic armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. It is called armored because it is a thing closed on all sides with two conclusions. It looks like an ordinary coil, like the one that is inserted into the sewing machine. True, instead of threads, a thin varnished wire with a diameter of about 0.1 millimeters is wound into it. You can buy it at the radio market or get it from the alarm clock. Before winding, solder leads to the ends of the wire to make the structure stronger and more resistant to breakage.

You need to wind it manually until there is about 1.5 millimeters of free space on the coil. To achieve the best effect, it is better to wind in layers, isolating them from each other with electrical tape or other dielectric. And if you find a PELSHO wire, then no insulation is required at all - it is already in the wire design: just wind it in bulk and drip a little machine oil.

After winding is completed, insulate the turns with a pair of coils of electrical tape and wind 6 turns of thicker wire (0.7-0.9 millimeters) on top. In the middle of the winding, you need to make a tap - just twist and bring it out. It is better to fix the entire wire with cyanoacrylate, and fix the two halves of the coil with each other with cyanoacrylate or electrical tape,

Making an output transformer

This is the most difficult part of creating a stun gun with your own hands. Since a standard layer transformer cannot be made at home, we will simplify the design - we will make it sectional.

As a basis, we take an ordinary propylene tube with a diameter of 2 centimeters. If you still have these after repairs in the bathroom - it's time to use them, if not - buy them in a plumbing store. The main thing is that it should not be reinforced with metal. We need a piece 5-6 centimeters long.

It is easy to make a sectional frame out of it - fix the workpiece and cut grooves 2 mm wide and 2 mm deep every 2 mm according to its diameter. Be careful - the pipe cannot be cut. After that, cut a groove 3 mm wide along the frame.

It remains only to make the winding. It is made from a wire with a diameter of 2 millimeters, which is wound around all sections within the tube. Solder the lead to the beginning of the wire and fix it with glue to prevent accidental breakage.

As a core for the transformer, a ferrite rod with a diameter of 1 centimeter and a length of approximately 5 centimeters is suitable. Suitable material can be found in line-scan transformers in old Soviet TVs - you just need to fit it to the dimensions and grind it to the shape, in fact, of the rod. This is quite a dusty job, so do not do it at home and without a respirator. If there is no workshop or garage nearby, use ferrite rings by gluing them together, or buy it on the radio market.

The rod must be wrapped with electrical tape and made of 0.8 wire on it (we used it for the second winding of the converter transformer. The winding is done along the entire length of the core, not reaching the edges of 5-10 millimeters, and is fixed with electrical tape.

The core winding is wound in the same direction as the winding on the propylene tube - clockwise or counterclockwise.

After that, insulate the core with electrical tape, but watch the diameter - it should fit snugly into the tube. On the side where the tube winding does not have soldered wire, solder the two windings (outer and inner) together. Thus, you will get three conclusions - two ends of the windings and a common point.

If you do not understand the process, you can watch a video on YouTube on how to make a stun gun with your own hands at home.

The final stage is paraffin filling. Any will do - the main thing is not to boil it in order to avoid damage to the internal elements of the transformer. Make a small box a little higher than the height of the transformer. Place a transformer in it, bring the wires out and fill the exit points with glue. After that, pour the paraffin into the box and put it on the battery so that the paraffin does not cool down, and all air bubbles come out. We need a margin in height due to the shrinkage of the cooling paraffin. Remove excess with a knife.

Do-it-yourself stun gun from improvised materials: wiring

Now it's time to take a look at circuit diagram stun gun. It looks like this:

through diode bridge charging capacitor is charging

through additional diodes, the combat capacitor is charged.

Almost any 330 ohm MOSFET transistors are suitable for the converter, the choice of resistors is also uncritical. 3300 picofarad capacitors are needed to limit the current strength when starting the device, that is, to protect the converter. If you are using high power transistors (like the IRFZ44+) then this protection is not required. and you can do without installing such capacitors.

There is one feature in the circuit: if the contacts are short-circuited (for example, when touching the skin, not the clothes), the shocker does not work correctly, since the combat capacitor does not have time to charge. If you want to get rid of such a disadvantage, put the second arrester in series with one of the outputs.

The whole circuit (with the correct layout of the elements on the board) fits perfectly on a platform of 4 by 5 centimeters. For power, take 6 nickel-cadmium batteries with a capacity of 300 milliamp-hours, half the size of a finger-type battery with a capacity of about 15 watts. Thus, the entire device is placed in a case the size of a cigarette pack.

For contacts, it is best to take aluminum rivets. They have sufficient electrical conductivity and have a steel core. It gives two advantages at once: the strength of the contacts is significantly increased and there are no problems with soldering aluminum. If they are not, then ordinary steel plates of any shape will do.

Assembly can be done either on an etched textolite board, or by soldering the elements with wires. But for starters, it's better to assemble it on a breadboard in order not to waste time and energy reworking the board in case something goes wrong. High-voltage terminals should be fixed at a short distance (about one and a half centimeters) so that the transformer does not burn out.

After unsoldering, turn on the device. Power must be taken directly from the batteries - do not use power supplies. He does not need to set up and he should work immediately after switching on, the frequency of spark formation is approximately 35 hertz. If it is much less, the reason is most likely in an incorrectly wound transformer or in the wrong transistors.

If everything works correctly, then separate the output contacts by a centimeter and start the device again. A standard shocker has a distance between the contacts of 2.5 centimeters. If everything works correctly, then spread the contacts another centimeter and test the device again. If it works all right, bring them back to the standard 2.5 centimeters. Such a power reserve is needed in order for the device to work in any conditions of humidity and pressure.

If the parts do not smoke or melt, everything is fine, you can solder the elements onto the board and proceed to the last step - creating the case.

Housing for a stun gun at home

Since stamping the case at home is not available, and 3D printers are not available everywhere and not to everyone, we will use a folk remedy - epoxy resin. Forming such a box is a painstaking process, but such a material has a number of advantages:

solidity;
tightness;
electrical insulation.

To create, you will need epoxy itself, cardboard as a frame, a glue gun and some little things.

The process is better to start with cutting out of cardboard back cover cases with a pre-drawn plan for the location of parts, and then glue it with strips of cardboard around the perimeter using a glue gun. The strips should be as long as the width of the shocker (about 3 centimeters) plus a margin for a sticker. You need to glue from the outside of the base, while carefully making sure that the seam is airtight.

After all the strips are glued, place the elements of the circuit inside and evaluate the correctness of their layout. Also determine where you will have the start button and the battery charging connector. If everything suits, then check the correctness of the connection of the elements to each other and the operation of the shocker again. Pay special attention to the tightness of the case - epoxy can penetrate into invisible cracks and leave stubborn stains on any surface.

It's time to start pouring the mold with epoxy. Put the filled form aside and wait 6-8 hours. After this time, it will not become hard, but will be plastic enough to give the body the desired ergonomic shape. After complete curing, process the epoxy with sandpaper and varnish with any varnish, for example, zaponlak.

As a result, you will get a reliable and durable device that is not afraid of bumps, drops and water. How to test it? Take a 0.25 amp fuse and place it between the contacts. After starting the device, the fuse will blow - this shows that the power of the device exceeds 250 milliamps, which is a significant power that can stop even the most zealous and overall intruder.

Specifications homemade stun gun
- voltage on the electrodes - 10 kV,
- pulse frequency up to 10 Hz,
- voltage 9 V. (Krona battery),
- weight no more than 180 gr.

Device design:

The device is a generator of high-voltage voltage pulses connected to the electrodes and placed in a housing made of a dielectric material. The generator consists of 2 series-connected voltage converters (Scheme in Fig. 1). The first converter is an asymmetric multivibrator based on transistors VT1 and VT2. It is turned on with the SB1 button. The load of the transistor VT1 is the primary winding of the transformer T1. The pulses taken from its secondary winding are rectified by the diode bridge VD1-VD4 and charge the battery of storage capacitors C2-C6. The voltage of capacitors C2-C6 when the SB2 button is turned on is the power supply for the second converter on the VS2 trinistre. The charge of the capacitor C7 through the resistor R3 to the switching voltage of the dynistre VS1 leads to turning off the trinis VS2. In this case, the battery of capacitors C2-C6 is discharged by primary winding transformer T2, inducing a high voltage pulse in its secondary winding. Since the discharge is oscillatory in nature, the voltage polarity on the C2-C6 battery is reversed, after which it is restored due to overdischarging through the primary winding of the T2 transformer and the VD5 diode. When the capacitor C7 is recharged again to the switching voltage of the dinistr VD1, the trinistor VS2 is turned on again and the next high voltage pulse is formed at the output electrodes.

All elements are installed on a foil-wrapped fiberglass board, as shown in Fig. 2. Diodes, resistors and capacitors are installed vertically. The case can be any suitable size box made of a material that does not transmit electricity.

The electrodes are made of steel needles up to 2 cm long - for access to the skin through human clothing or animal hair. The distance between the electrodes is at least 25 mm.

The device does not need adjustment and operates flawlessly only with correctly wound transformers. Therefore, follow the rules for their manufacture: transformer T1 is made on a ferrite ring of size K10 * 6 * 3 or K10 * 6 * 5 from ferrite grade 2000NN, its winding I contains 30 turns of PEB-20.15 mm wire, and winding II - 400 turns of PEV-20.1 mm. The voltage on its primary winding should be 60 volts. The T2 transformer is wound on a frame made of ebonite or plexiglass with an inner diameter of 8 mm, an outer diameter of 10 mm, a length of 20 mm, and a cheek diameter of 25 mm. The magnetic circuit is a segment from a ferrite rod for a magnetic antenna 20 mm long and 8 mm in diameter.

Winding I contains 20 turns of PELSh (PEV-2) wire - 0.2 mm, and winding II - 2600 turns of PEV-2 with a diameter of 0.07-0.1 mm. At the beginning, winding II is wound on the frame, through each layer of which a layer of varnished fabric is placed (a breakdown between the turns of the secondary winding may necessarily occur otherwise), and then the primary winding is wound on top of it. The conclusions of the secondary winding are carefully insulated and attached to the electrodes.

Without claiming to be super-original and super-new ideas, I propose my own development, which can be repeated by anyone who at least once in their life has dealt with winding a transformer and installing the simplest devices such as a detector radio receiver with an amplifier based on one or two transistors.

The basis of the do-it-yourself stun gun I offer is (Fig. 1a) a transistor generator that converts a constant voltage from a power source such as a galvanic battery "Krona" ("Korund", 6PLF22) or a Nika battery into an increased variable, with a typical multiplier U. Very important an element of the EShU is a self-made transformer (Fig. 1b and Fig. 2). The magnetic circuit for it is a ferrite core with a diameter of 8 and a length of 50 mm. Such a core can be chipped off, for example, from a magnetic antenna of a radio receiver, having previously filed the original around the circumference with the edge of an abrasive stone. But the transformer works more efficiently if the ferrite is from a television TVS. True, in this case, it will be necessary to grind a cylindrical rod of the required dimensions from the base U-shaped magnetic circuit.

For transformer windings, in this case, copper wire is used in high-strength enamel insulation based on vinyl flex. Primary 1 contains 2x14 turns of PEV2-0.5. In winding 2, they are almost half as many. More precisely, it contains 2x6 turns of the same wire. But high-voltage 3 has 10,000 turns of thinner PEV2-0.15.

As an interlayer insulation, instead of a film of polytetrafluoroethylene (fluoroplastic) or polyethylene terephthalate (lavsan), usually recommended for such windings, the use of 0.035 mm interelectrode capacitor paper is quite acceptable. It is advisable to stock up on it in advance: for example, remove it from the 4-microfarad LSE1-400 or LSM-400 from the installation old fittings for fluorescent lamps, which, it would seem, has long exhausted its resource, and cut it exactly according to the working width of the frame of the future transformer.

In the original design, the EShU generator was developed with a focus on the use of KT818 transistors. However, replacing them with KT816 with any letter index in the name and installing them on small plate radiators made it possible to reduce the weight and dimensions of the entire device. The use of well-proven KTs106V (KTs106G) diodes with high-voltage ceramic capacitors K15-13 (220 pF, 10 kV) in the voltage multiplier also contributed to this. As a result, it was possible to fit almost everything (without taking into account the safety whiskers and spark gap pins) into a plastic housing like a soap dish measuring 135x58x36 mm. The weight of the protective EShU in the collection is about 300 g.

In fact, the idea of "mustache" is borrowed from the "proprietary" models and developments. Taken, as they say, into service and such a technical solution as the use of a switch of a necessarily slide type: in order to avoid self-switching, when the electroshock protective equipment rests, say, in the breast or side pocket of its owner.

The idea of creating a stun gun of increased efficiency came to me after testing several similar devices of industrial production on myself. During the tests, it turned out that they deprive the enemy of combat capability only after 4 ... 8 seconds of exposure, and then if you're lucky :) Needless to say, as a result of real use, such a shocker will most likely end up in the owner's back seat.

Info: our legislation allows for mere mortals shockers with an output power of not more than 3 J / s (1 J / s = 1 W), at the same time, devices with a power of up to 10 W are allowed for ATC workers. But even 10 watts is not enough to effectively neutralize the enemy; During experiments on volunteers, the Americans became convinced of the extreme inefficiency of shockers with a power of 5 ... 7 W, and decided to create a device that would specifically extinguish the enemy. Such a device was created: "ADVANCED TASER M26" (one of the modifications of "AirTaser" by the company of the same name).

The device was created using EMD technology, in other words, it has an increased output power. Specifically - 26 watts (as they say, "feel the difference" :)). In general, there is another model of this device - M18, with a power of 18 watts. This is due to the fact that the taser is a remote shocker: when you press the trigger, two probes are fired from the cartridge inserted into the front of the device, followed by wires. The probes do not fly parallel to each other, but diverge at a slight angle, due to which at the optimal distance (2...3 m) the distance between them becomes 20...30 cm. It is clear that if the probes hit somewhere in the wrong place, it might turn out to be a jerk. Therefore, they released a device of lower power.

At first I made stun guns, similar in efficiency to industrial ones (out of ignorance :). But when I found out the information given above, I decided to develop a REAL stun gun worthy of being called a WEAPON of self-defense. By the way, in addition to stun guns, there are also stun guns, but they don’t rule at all, because they paralyze muscles only in the contact zone, and the effect is not achieved immediately, even with high power.

The output parameters of the MegaShocker are partially borrowed from the "ADVANCED TASER M26". According to available data, the device generates pulses with a repetition rate of 15...18 Hz and an energy of 1.75J at a voltage of 50Kv (because the lower the voltage, the higher the current at the same power). Since the MegaShocker is still a contact device, and also out of concern for one's own health :), it was decided to make the pulse energy equal to 2 ... 2.4 J, and their repetition rate - 20 ... 30 Hz. This is at a voltage of 35 ... 50 kilovolts and a maximum distance between the electrodes (at least 10 cm).

The scheme, however, turned out to be somewhat complicated, but nevertheless:

Scheme: On the DA1 chip, a control generator (PWM controller) is assembled, on transistors Q1, Q2 and transformer T1 - a voltage converter 12v --> 500v. When capacitors C9 and C10 are charged up to 400 ... 500 volts, the threshold node is activated on the elements R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1, and a current pulse passes through the primary winding T2, the energy of which is calculated by formula 1.2 (E is the energy (J), C - capacitance C9 + C10 (μF), U - voltage (v)). At U \u003d 450v and C \u003d 23 uF, the energy will be 2.33 J. Rezyuk R14 sets the threshold. Capacitor C6 or C7 (depending on the position of switch S3) - limits the power of the device, otherwise it will tend to infinity, and the circuit will burn out.

Capacitor C6 provides maximum power ("MAX"), C7 - demo ("DEMO"), which allows you to admire the electric discharge without the risk of burning the device and / or draining the battery :) (when you turn on the "DEMO" mode, you must also turn off S4). The capacitance of C6 and C7 is calculated using formula 1.1, or simply selected (for a power of 45 watts at a frequency of 17 KHz, the capacitance will be about 0.02 microfarads). HL1- Fluorescent Lamp(LB4, LB6 or similar ones (C8 is selected)), is placed for disguise - so that the device looks like a tricked-out lantern and does not arouse suspicion among various types of police officers and other personalities (otherwise they can take it away, I had a case - they took away a similar device). Of course, you can do without a lamp. Elements R5-C2 determine the frequency of the generator, with the specified ratings f = ~ 17KHz. Rizuk R11 limits the output voltage, you can do without it at all - just attach R16-C5 to the case. Diode D1 protects the circuit from damage when connected in reverse polarity. A fuse - for every fire-fighting one (for example: if a thread closes somewhere, the battery can explode (there were cases)).

Now for assembling the device: you can assemble the entire device on a breadboard, but it is recommended to solder the pulse circuit (C9-C10-R13-R14-C11-D4-R15-SCR1) by surface mounting, while the wires connecting C9-C10, SCR1 and T2 should be as short as possible. The same applies to elements Q1, Q2, C4 and T1. Transformers T1 and T2 should be located away from each other.

T1 is wound on two ring cores folded together from M2000NM1, size K32*20*6. First, a winding of 3 - 320 turns of PEL 0.25 is wound, turn to turn. Windings 1 and 2 contain 8 turns of PEL 0.8 ... 1.0 each. They are wound simultaneously in two wires, the turns should be evenly distributed over the magnetic circuit.

T2 is wound on a core of transformer plates. The plates must be isolated from each other with a film (paper, adhesive tape, etc.). The core cross-sectional area must be at least 450 square millimeters. First, a winding of 1 - 10 ... 15 turns of PEL wire 1.0 ... 1.2 is wound. Winding 2 contains 1000 ... 1500 turns and is wound in layers turn to turn. Each winding layer is insulated with several layers of adhesive tape or a capacitor film (which can be obtained by breaking the smoothing conder from the LDS lamp. Then it is all filled with epoxy. Attention - the primary winding must be carefully Isolate it from the secondary!Otherwise, it may turn out to be some kind of filth (the device may fail, or it may shock the owner with current. And it’s not sickly to beat ...) Switch S1 is a type of fuse (with SUCH power, caution will not hurt), S2 is a button switching on, both switches must be rated for a current of at least 10A.

A distinctive feature of the scheme is that everyone can set it up for themselves (I mean for the enemy :) output power devices can be in the range from 30 to 75 watts (doing less than 30, IMHO, is impractical). And more than 75 is just bad, because. with a further increase in power, the efficiency will not be much greater, and the risk will increase significantly. Well, the dimensions of the device will turn out to be a little more.). Output voltage - 35 ... 50 thousand volts. The frequency of discharges should be at least 18 ... 20 per second. The recommended parameters are 40 watts, the energy of a single pulse is 1.75J at a voltage of 40Kv. (if you lower the voltage, you can also reduce the pulse energy, the efficiency will remain the same. 1.75J at 40Kv will be approximately the same as 2.15J at 50Kv. But it is not advisable to make the voltage less than 35 Kv, because then the skin resistance, i.e. current, will interfere in the impulse will be insufficient).

One of the most effective ways protection against aggressors is a stun gun. No permits or licenses are required to carry, store and use it. Any citizen of the Russian Federation who has reached the age of 18 can buy a shocker. However, such an acquisition is not affordable for everyone. Therefore, in this article we will consider one of the ways that will help you make a shocker with your own hands at home.

Homemade shockers are prohibited from being used in Russia. Only devices manufactured by the Russian Federation and having a certificate are legal. Carrying and using a homemade stun gun can lead to problems with law enforcement.

Components of a stun gun

Our homemade stun gun will consist of several basic elements. These include:

ignition capacitor;
converter transformer;
combat capacitor.

The principle of operation of such a shocker is quite simple. The charge that accumulates in the capacitor is sent to the transformer when the button is pressed. So its power increases. As a result, a discharge arc appears between the two electrodes.

Making a converter transformer

Creating a transformer is the most time-consuming part of the process. Particular attention should be paid to winding. It requires precision and care. Starting to make a stun gun with your own hands, let's start creating a transformer.

First of all, we take the B-22 ferrite armor core (2000 NM).
We wind a thin wire (0.1 mm) around the core until 1.5 mm of empty space remains. A thin insulating tape is laid between the layers. Winding is carried out in 5-6 layers.
We isolate the resulting coil with a regular tape in 2 layers.
We make 6 turns of thick wire (0.7-0.9 mm). The withdrawal is made on the third turn.
Cups stick together. The coil is wrapped with insulating tape.

With such a simple scheme of work, it is difficult to make a mistake. It is important to do everything very carefully here.

Designing an output transformer

If you make a stun gun with your own hands, then for the output transformer you will also need:

part of a pipe made of polypropylene (diameter 2 cm, length 5 cm);
wire 0.2 mm thick;
cutter;
ferrite rod 2000 NM (length 5 cm, diameter - 1 cm);
insulating tape.

The scheme of work will be as follows:

We make recesses in the pipe with a diameter of 0.2 cm.
We wind the wire 0.2 mm on the section. The ends are soldered or glued to the stranded wire.
We wrap the ferrite rod with insulating tape.
We wind from a thick wire (0.8 mm), making 20 turns. At the edges should remain from 0.5 to 1 cm.
We wind several layers of insulating tape on the rod. The design must fit snugly into the prepared part of the pipe.

Then both windings are connected at the termination point of the HV winding. As a result, we get three outputs, not four. Now we have a common point, HV output, as well as the end of the first winding. Both transformers are placed in a box and filled with non-hot paraffin. Then you need to remove air bubbles from it. To do this, you can use a fan heater. The main part of the stun gun is ready.

We collect a stun gun

To assemble the shocker yourself, you need to remove the radiator from the PC. A transistor is installed on it. The radiator is insulated. If there are two of them, then they should not contact each other. Power can be provided with a ½ AA NicD battery. The battery is connected to a capacitor, transistors and transformers. Then you need to make a case and plan a start button on it. It can be made of plastic or epoxy resin.

Remember that a home-made device, even the most reliable scheme, is illegal. The slightest assembly errors can lead to electric shock to the owner. In any case, it's better not to risk it. The best option is to purchase a product with a guarantee. To do this, just look into ShopShoker.

This was in 1913. An eleven-year-old girl, a boarder at the Moscow Rzhev Gymnasium, pestered her uncle with a request to show what he had written on the medallion, which he always carried with him on his chest. The uncle took off the locket and handed it to the girl. The girl opened the lid, but nothing was written there. In addition to 5 musical lines and four notes: sol-sharp - si - f-sharp - mi. The girl hesitated for a moment, and then shouted cheerfully: “Uncle. I know what is written here. The notes on the medallion mean, “I love you.” And here comes the question. Can you imagine how this girl was taught, if she, seeing four notes, sang them to herself, and after singing, she recognized the beginning of Lensky's arioso from Tchaikovsky's opera "Eugene Onegin". It turned out that this medallion is such an original declaration of love, once received by the girl's uncle as a gift from his bride before their wedding. But you think, because the girl is only 11 years old! How did they manage to teach her that? And not in a special music school and not in a music college, but in a normal Russian gymnasium, and even in the elementary grades. Q: How was this girl taught? - I have already asked, now I will ask one more question, the answer to which goes beyond reasoning about the level of education only, but concerns the questions of the gene pool. How should a boy be taught so that he will ever approach such a girl and talk to her, interest her as a worthy interlocutor, as a person, and eventually win her heart? Having trained the girl at such a level, she was, as it were, vaccinated against lack of spirituality, from that flow of primitive monotony, which I conditionally call “disco”. To this girl, if only any boy would not suit. But even if it fits, it is unlikely to find mutual understanding ... Thus, we are talking about the level of contact, the level of spiritual, cultural correspondence. Consequently, teaching the girl art, music, poetry, already in the lower grades of the Russian gymnasium, educating (or, better, shaping) a spiritual need, they thought about the gene pool, about the intellectual society of the future. But did a boy exist in Russian society - a worthy partner of our little schoolgirl? Of course yes! You didn't think. why did all the officers of the tsarist army learn to play the piano? Is it really necessary for combat training? For combat, perhaps not, but for the gene pool - of course, yes !!! Think about it, what kind of image is this - an officer playing the piano? Yes, this is a symbol of male harmony - a combination of officers and music. On the one hand, an officer is a defender, a warrior, and on the other hand, a subtle interpreter of the music of Tchaikovsky and Chopin... culture and prepared a cultural explosion, like which, I think, the history of mankind has not yet known ... M. Kazinik “Secrets of Geniuses”

The problem of ensuring the safety and protection of oneself and one's loved ones from encroachments on life or property worries every person. There are many ways and means for self-defense, but not all of them are available for purchase and use.

The best weapon for protection and self-defense is electric shock, which does not require a license and registration with the Ministry of Internal Affairs. The stun gun can be purchased by anyone after reaching the age of 18, and due to its compact size and light weight, the stun gun can be carried in a pocket or in a women's purse.

A typical stun gun consists of several components - a converter (1), a capacitor (2), an arrester (3) and a transformer (4). You can see everything in the picture below. It also works easily. The capacitor is periodically discharged to the transformer, producing a spark discharge at its output. It would seem very simple, but as practice has shown, there is a hidden trick here (© fulminat) and it is hidden in this very transformer. At home, it is almost impossible to make it transmit the impulse correctly and be effective enough, this requires special materials, equipment, and most importantly, calculations that are kept in great secret - you will not find anything on the net on this topic. In addition, the transformer has purely design limitations that do not allow us to transmit powerful single impulses through it, which we need.

We decided to cheat and came up with how to make a stun gun with your own hands 3 times easier while maintaining all the power. The action is as follows: the ignition capacitor works on the arrester-transformer system similarly to a stun gun, as a result of which a high-voltage pulse appears at its output, penetrating several centimeters of air. And at this moment, the main, combat capacitor comes into play, which through the formed ionized channel beats all its joules directly. The point here is that at the moment of formation of an electric discharge, a conductive channel appears, which essentially replaces a piece of wire. Thus we are using high voltage we bring the charge to the object with practically no losses, which allows us to reduce the dimensions, and the actual power of the device necessary to achieve the wild anger of its action.

Let's start making the shocker with the most complex part - transformers. As practice has shown, difficulties with the repetition of shockers usually lie precisely in winding - in the process, many lose their nerves and the structure is subjected to premature breaking with a hammer :-D Therefore, we went the way of industry, where, as you know, they proceed from what is easier to do in large quantities and without problems. At the same time, the process becomes almost entertainment, but do not forget about attentiveness - this does not stop the transformer from being the most important part of the device.

CONVERTER TRANSFORMER

You will need a B22 armor core made of 2000NM ferrite. Let me explain armor does not mean bulletproof :-) but just such a design closed on all sides in which only holes for wires are left. It consists of two small cups between which the bobbin is located almost like in a sewing machine :-)

Only you need to wind it not with threads, but with a thin enameled wire with a diameter of about 0.1 mm, you can get it from chinese alarm clock. We take this wire and wind it on the bobbin, not counting the turns, until free space will not remain about 1.5mm.

For best results, you need to wind in layers, laying thin electrical tape between them. Thus, you should get 5-6 layers. If you are lucky enough to get the PELSHO wire, just wind it in bulk, without any insulation, periodically dropping a little machine oil. It is useful to attach thin stranded leads to the ends of the wire for greater reliability.

Next, we isolate all this in 1-2 layers with electrical tape and wind 6 turns of a thicker wire, something in the region of 0.7-0.9mm, with a tap from the middle, i.e. on the 3rd turn we stop the process and make a retraction (twisting), then wind the remaining 3 turns. All this will not be superfluous to fix with superglue or something else. At the end, we glue the cups together, or simply wrap them with electrical tape if we are not sure about the quality of the winding.

OUTPUT TRANSFORMER

Trained and enough. Now the really tricky part. Although looking ahead, I’ll say that THIS is just entertainment compared to what I had to do before ;-) Because winding a traditional layered transformer at home and from the first time, and even to work, WILL NOT WORK. Instead of layers, our transformer will have sections.

First you need to get a tube of polypropylene with a diameter of 20mm. They are sold in a plumbing store as a replacement for conventional water pipes. It looks like a white taka with a thick wall, pure plastic. There is a very similar but metal-plastic - will not work. We need a piece of only 5-6cm in length.

Through a complex process, this piece must become a sectional frame. This is done as follows - we take a drill, into which we clamp a drill or a bolt close in diameter so that it fits into the tube, winding electrical tape around it, we make sure that the tube sits tightly and evenly. Next, we take a cutter that can be made from a steel plate, emery cloth, etc., and begin to grind grooves, estimating so as not to cut through the pipe. As a result, sections should be approximately 2x2 mm i.e. 2 mm deep and wide. To make them smoother after sharpening, you can sharpen a little with a needle file. Then we take a stationery paper knife and make an incision 2-3mm wide along the entire frame, look more carefully because you can cut through the wall of the pipe, which is fraught with rework. This completes the preparation.

Because then the fun begins. This time we need a wire with a diameter of about 0.2 mm. It can be in the power supply, starters, etc.. This wire must be wound on all sections of our frame, without being too zealous so that the wire does not go beyond the section, but it is better that it does not reach a little. Before winding, a small stranded wire is again soldered to the beginning of the wire, which must be well fixed with glue so that it does not come off in which case. The end of the wire is not yet connected to anything.

Now you need to find a ferrite rod with a diameter of about 10mm and a length of about 50. We need a 2000NM ferrite, a horizontal-scan transformer from a domestic TV is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to remove everything superfluous from it. Then carefully split it as shown in the picture. If the line is made of small halves, then they can be glued together with superglue to get a longer rod. To process ferrite, you need to use a sharpener (emery wheel) to end up with a round rod with a diameter of about 10mm and a length of about 50. The process is very difficult, during it you can feel like a coal mine worker in full :-D Instead of a rod, you can use a lot of small ferite rings glued together - it’s easier for some to buy them, and they are also made from ferrite 2000NM :-)

The rod must be wrapped with a layer of electrical tape and wound with 20 turns of 0.8 wire - the one that we used in the first transformer, stretching the winding to its entire length, only stepping back 5-10 mm along the edges and fix the wire with threads or the same electrical tape. WINDING THE WIRE IS NECESSARY IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS ON THE SECTIONS, for example, clockwise or counter-clockwise as you like ;-) After that, we isolate everything in several layers, as far as the inner diameter of the tube allows, so that it enters tightly but without effort.

After the preparatory and winding process, we do the following trick. We insert the rod inside the frame, and from the side where the HV-winding ends (where there is no output in the form of wiring) WE CONNECT 2 WINDINGS TOGETHER !!! Thus, the transformer will have 3 outputs instead of the usual 4: end from the 1st winding, a common point and an HV output. ATTENTION! watch the phasing (winding in the same direction) otherwise the shocker will not work.

At the end of the process, the transformer must be placed in a cardboard box and filled with hot paraffin. To do this, melt the paraffin in a tin can, but you do not need to heat it, otherwise the hot paraffin will damage the frame and all the work will go down the drain. The conclusions must first be sealed with some kind of glue so that the paraffin does not leak out :-) It is best to carry out the process in two stages. First, fill with paraffin, then put it in front of a fan heater or on a radiator so that it warms up for 10-15 minutes, so all air bubbles will float up and go away. Boxes need to be made with a HEIGHT MARKET since after cooling, the paraffin shrinks a lot. You can remove the excess with a knife. This technology is almost as good as the vacuum process in the factory, but can be used in the kitchen. If you have the opportunity to borrow an industrial vacuum pump, then instead of paraffin, it is better to use epoxy - it is more reliable.

Pages: [1 ]

For many years I have been making similar devices and each time the technology of circuitry is somewhat different. In search of a convenient and very powerful stun gun, I created a whole notebook with the development of stun guns, it is these archives that are offered to your attention. The circuit of this shocker on one transistor is very simple - a converter on a KT819 and a push-pull voltage multiplier. Now think: only two capacitors are not able to stun - but you are deeply mistaken, the power of the shocker when powered by 12 volts 2 amperes reaches 30 watts, and is able to half light an incandescent lamp with a voltage of 220 volts 60 watts.

In the photographs, the shocker is powered by a mobile phone battery with a capacity of 650 mA / h, the arc with this power supply is 1 centimeter, but when powered by 12 volts, the arc reaches 4-5 centimeters. For such parameters, you need to find capacitors with a capacity of 10 kilovolts 22000 picofarads, the code marking is attached to the article. In fact, such imported capacitors can be easily found on the radio market. The diodes in the voltage multiplier are high-voltage - domestic kts106 is the best option.

The converter is assembled on the basis of a simple blocking generator on a single transistor, a transistor - kt819 / kt805 and its imported analogues, or any other similar parameters. 100 ohm resistor with 1 watt power. The transformer is taken from computer block nutrition. The primary winding contains 10 turns with a tap from the middle, it is wound with 4 strands of wire with a diameter of 0.5 mm each. Then we isolate the primary winding with several layers of transparent tape and wind the secondary winding, it contains 2000 turns of 0.08 mm wire, we isolate the winding every 80 turns. It is desirable to fill the finished transformer with epoxy resin to avoid breakdowns. And now the main secret of this shocker is a spark gap!

It's not a secret for you that the main disadvantage of shockers on a voltage multiplier is that when in contact with human skin, the pulses close through the resistance of the skin and the capacitors do not have time to charge, the spark gap serves as a spare gap, that is, the charge flows constantly through it, this voltage enough to paralyze after 1 second of using an electroshock device. The case is made of plastic, you can use the case from Chinese led flashlight. The shocker must be equipped with a non-latching button and a switch. The power source for this stun gun on one transistor is convenient to use two batteries from mobile phone. And in the future we will consider more powerful stun guns with an anti-pull system and other interesting devices. Stay tuned, author - Artur Kasyan (AKA).

On the network you can find a lot of videos and text materials for manufacturing. The manufacture of most of them requires considerable Money and knowledge. In this article, we will look at how to make one of the cheapest and simplest stun guns for sure. As a result, we get a good means of self-defense.

Let's get acquainted with the video on the manufacture of a stun gun

So, we need:
- electric fly swatter;
- two finger batteries;
- box;
- transparent hoses;
- self-tapping screws.

Unlike most analogues made on the basis of piezoelectric elements, this stun gun will be made of serious materials, so you need to be extremely careful. Let's get started.

First of all, we take an electronic fly swatter and disassemble it. After successfully disassembling the flyswatter handle, all the electronics will open before us.

All we need is the board, which is located at the very top of the handle. The board contains the transformer itself, the power supply, the start button, which we will later bring out, an ice indicator that shows that the device is turned on, as well as capacitors, the outputs of which are located on the back of the board.

Since the factory solution for the location of the button may not be so convenient when installing the board in a box, you can therefore extend the button contacts with wires and install your own switch or button.

The exact location of the button should be chosen at your own discretion, depending on the type and size of the box.

As contacts, we will use the most common self-tapping screws. When looking for them, you need to make sure that they are as similar as possible. As for the hoses, we will use them to insulate the contacts.

On the box you need to make two holes for the contacts. If the box, like the author’s, is metal, then you definitely need to take care of insulating the contacts.

Finally, you can make the stun gun rechargeable. To do this, you can replace finger batteries with rechargeable ones.

You can also replace the factory capacitor on the board with a capacitor taken from a camera flash, but we will not do this.

Isolate the inside of the box to prevent a short circuit.

We make a hole on the side for the button, on the top for screws and paint it.

We glue double-sided tape to the bottom of the box and assemble the entire board structure, together with the battery and contacts in the box.

It is quite difficult to defend yourself in a closed space from an unexpectedly attacked person. For example, how to stop a robber in an elevator? or they can hurt themselves, and a knife or a gun can become a deadly weapon. They will also give you a deadline.

therefore the best option will become, which, by the way, you can make yourself. And today we will tell you how to make ordinary and powerful mini stun guns at home.

Before moving on to special types of devices, let's talk about how to make the simplest stun gun.

Necessary equipment and raw materials

Here is the list necessary materials and details:

silicone;
insulating tape;
a ferrite rod pulled out of an old radio;
plastic bag;
scotch;
wire;
wire with a diameter of 0.5 to 1 mm;
wire with a diameter of 0.4 to 0.7 mm;
wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm;
ferrite transformer pulled out of impulse block power supply of any electronic device;
fuse;
battery for power supply;
diodes, capacitor and resistor for charger;
Light-emitting diode;
switches;
an old suitable case or plastic for its manufacture.

And now we will learn how to make a homemade stun gun.

Creation technology

High voltage coil

First, we make a high-voltage coil.

To do this, we wrap a ferrite rod about five centimeters long with three layers of electrical tape, then fifteen turns of the thinnest wire go.
On top - five more layers of electrical tape and six layers of adhesive tape.
We cut the plastic bag into strips ten centimeters long and a width corresponding to the length of the coil.
Next comes the secondary winding with a thicker wire (from 350 to 400 turns) in the same direction as the primary winding.
We isolate each row of wire (from 40 to 50 turns) with polyethylene tapes and five rows of adhesive tape.
At the end are two layers of electrical tape and ten layers of tape. Fill the sides with silicone.

converter transformer

Now we make the converter transformer.

Its basis will be a ferrite transformer, from which you need to remove all the windings and the ferrite frame (you may have to put the part in boiling water for a while).
We wind the primary winding from a wire 0.8 mm thick (12 turns). The secondary winding is 600 turns (70 turns in a row) with millimeter wire.
To isolate each row, lay four layers of electrical tape. Having inserted the halves of the ferrite, we fix the structure using electrical tape or adhesive tape.

spark gap and other parts

The next detail is the spark gap.

For it, we take the old fuse, remove the tin on its contacts with a hot soldering iron, and pull out the inner wire.
We screw the screws on both sides (they should not contact).
By changing the gap between them, you can change the frequency of discharges.

We take ready-made batteries:

lithium-ion (pulled out of a mobile phone),
nickel-cadmium or lithium polymer.

The latter are very capacious, but they must be bought, and this is expensive.

For the charger, we solder a diode bridge, a capacitor, a resistor and a signal LED. A diagram with the characteristics of parts can be found on the Web. Charging time will be about three to four hours.

As for the case, you can find something suitable by gutting a faulty device. Or glue it from plastic parts. You can even make a case out of cardboard by filling it with epoxy. The result is a stun gun with a power of about five watts, consuming up to three amperes of current. Remember that more than three seconds a person should not be affected by a discharge.

Special types of homemade EShU

From a flashlight

So, how to make a stun gun from a flashlight like so popular, or, for example,?

It will take, in fact, only the body of the flashlight - the LED can also be left. This is convenient because there are already batteries inside.
Four high-voltage coils and converters pulled out of electric lighters for gas stoves should also be placed there.
Spark gaps and a separate switch are added to the circuit.
Each transformer has its own two contacts.
Arresters are made from steel narrow strips or pieces of paper clips.

We will tell you how to make a stun gun from a battery.

From a battery

This is the easy way. For him you will need:

battery type "Krona" with a capacity of 9 watts;
ebonite rod from 30 to 40 centimeters long;
converting transformer (ready-made, pulled out of the charger or AC adapter);
insulating tape;
steel wire;
push button switch.

We take an ebonite rod and attach two five-centimeter pieces of steel wire to it with electrical tape. They need to be connected with a wire to a transformer and a battery. The switch is attached to the opposite end of the rod. When you press its button, a discharge (arc) will appear between the pieces of wire. To do this, you need to press 25 times per second.

The power of the device is small - it can be used more for intimidation, and not for protection.

From a lighter

So, how to make a stun gun from a lighter? We will need:

battery operated electric lighter;
clip;
glue;
soldering iron and solder.

We disassemble the lighter, cut off the tube with a hacksaw. We only need a handle with wires coming out of it. We leave them a length of one or two centimeters, cutting with wire cutters. Then we expose their tips and solder pieces of paper clips there. The ends are slightly bent. We fix the whole structure with glue. The power of the device is also not too high.

The video below will tell you how to make a stun gun from a lighter at home:

In the form of a pen

You will need:

a small carnation;
two lighters (one with a piezoelectric element);
a handle with a button and a metal clip, having a sufficiently large diameter, containing a piezoelectric element;
hacksaw for metal;
glue gun.

We disassemble one of the lighters and take out the piezoelectric element.
We disassemble the handle, pull out the inner plastic sleeve and cut out its middle part to a length corresponding to the size of the piezoelectric element.
We remove the clip and on the side with a heated (second lighter) carnation we make a hole in the upper part of the handle body.
With a hacksaw we make an incision for the wire.
We put the handle button in place, glue the piezoelectric wire insulation with a thermal gun and glue it to the second part of the plastic inner sleeve.
We insert everything into the body of the handle, bring the wire into the hole, then pass it along the sawn groove and clamp it with a metal clip from the handle.
We insert the lower part of the sleeve and assemble the handle.
Now, when you press the button from the clip, it will shock.

But this is more of a toy than a means of self-defense. And now let's find out how to make a stun gun from a capacitor at home.

From the condenser

We take a capacitor from a long fluorescent lamp. Earlier, in Soviet times, it was rectangular, red or green. In modern models, it is a white cylinder.

We also need a wire (double) with a plug at the end. The length of the wire can be left about ten to fifteen centimeters.

We expose the ends opposite to the plug, fasten them to the capacitor contacts and carefully isolate them. That's it. Now, after charging from the network, a discharge will appear at the ends of the plug, quite noticeable. But it does not bring harm - it only pinches.

The video below will tell you how to make a powerful stun gun at home:

In contact with

30.11.2020

Internet

The most interesting: